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FORK PLAY: November 21, 2007
Ascetic Fish, Park Your Bag, Good Tastes at Smith's, My Fabulous Meatloaf
Dear Friends and Family,
My long time pal Cassandra gets more respect in restaurants than I do. She is so demanding. Men seem to love impossible women and waiters are no exception. Cassandra is a healthy eater, i.e. nothing fried, just a taste of meat, no fatty fish nor buttery sauces, you can't fool her.  She has the toned, perfect body of hours in the gym and no cuisinary freak outs.
When she whispers into the waiter's ear, I look away and pretend she belongs to somebody else because I know she is redesigning whatever dish she has just ordered.
Needless to say, it was Cassandra's idea that we meet at Kellari Parea, one day old, run by a favorite of hers from Avra. Five minutes in the noise Mixmaster at what used to be Parea had almost undone me. But now the space is cozy, warm and rustic, almost a taverna for the stage, and amazingly.. relatively quiet.
I didn't need the arugula she insisted on adding to her Greek salad - "I asked them for something green" - still I agreed that it was good. But that fish. How could she possibly be so thrilled by that boring, dry and listless creature laid out on her plate waiting for Picasso to immortalize it? Yes paint it, okay. But eat it? She was in heaven.
"No one who loves food could be happy with that fish," I said. "There is not a soupçon of sensuous pleasure."
"But you know I love food and I do get joy from eating a fish that's so fresh," Cassandra said. "Many New Yorkers love to eat this way. Do you know how hard it is to get into Milos?"
It was opening day. That may explain why pizza came after dessert. Partner Stavros Aktipis himself brought it to the table, apologizing for the odd timing. I can assure you Cassandra did not touch that pizza, five sins on one piece of dough. But the Road Food Warrior and I actually finished two large pieces. He, after sorbet. Me, after yogurt and honey.
She watched us it, not horrified exactly, but barely tolerant. "Now you can say something nice about the place." she urged. "It's a first. Greek pizza."
At Spice Market: Room to Park Your Bag
We took my sister-in-law Mary and her daughter Colleen to Spice Market Saturday night. Actually, they weren't the only tourists in the house but it was lively and I doubt they noticed. And I don't care. I'm not a snob. I love Spice Market. The kitchen has had its up and downs. Saturday I noticed several new dishes -  I especially liked the silken tofu with pad thai flavor, and our perennial favorite shaved tuna with chili tapioca, Asian pear and lime. I was sad to see the wait staff is not as exquisite as it once was, rather..they look human, like people you see on the subway, and the women no longer wear pajamas with backs bare and a string holding everything together.
Mary had learned a lot about New York character that day at Michel Kors in Soho. It was a large alligator hobo bag with gold chains that caught her eye.
"You picked out the nicest bag in the store," the sales woman congratulated her. It's crocodile, lined in suede. You must have good taste."
"Yes, I do," Mary told her.
"In New York, instead of buying a car, we buy a bag like this as a status symbol."
"And how much is it?" Mary asked.
"It costs as much as a car," the woman said.
"And how much would that be?" Mary persisted.
"SIXTEEN THOUSAND FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS."
Since Mary lives in Chicago and has just bought herself a convertible roadster, she had no pressing ego-needs. My brother will be very grateful.
Stylish and Timeless Is Perfect for Cindy Smith
There is nothing but a worn Turkish runner on the floor to absorb the din in the stylish and handsome "Pullman shaped dining car" designer Mark Zeff gave Cindy Smith for her new venture on MacDougal Street. I find the mullioned mirror ceiling quite mesmerizing - I look good from up above - but oh, how it amplifies the noise. Still, Bouley ex Pablo  Romero is sending delicious and sophisticated food from the kitchen and the Road Food Warrior says we should go back with ear plugs to see if that helps. Go to Can You Hear Me, Cindy?
Belcourt for Locals and Theater Fans
With its fabulous French flea market finds - mix and match tables, art deco sconces, post office doors -- and saucy servers delivering homey bistro food, Belcourt is a find for the locals and an address to keep for fans of Second Avenue Theaters. Belcourt
Funding Meals for the City's Elderly Shut-ins
Were you at Citymeals 21st annual Power Lunch for Women at the Rainbow Room last Friday? As always, the room seemed filled with positive energy and a special intimacy. We went to lunch with $970,000 pledged, and left with $1,155,000 when chef/restaurateur-to-be Andrew Borrok quietly informed me that he would send a check for $120,000 more so we could beat last year's all time record of $1.1 million. newyorksocialdiary
Well, I was stunned, by Borrok's spontaneous generosity. With that boost, (and checks still coming in) we would be delivering 200,000 meals to needy neighbors all winter long. On Thanksgiving day I will be putting away 4500 calories (according to the Science Section of Tuesday's NY Times) and Andrew will be serving meals to seniors at a Chelsea center for the aging on Eighth Avenue.
By the way, the Rainbow Room kitchen sent out meatloaf loosely based on a recipe from my memoir Insatiable: Tales from a Life of Delicious Excess. When you've overdosed on turkey and finished off the stuffing next morning at breakfast, you might want to try the real deal: My Danish Meat Loaf
Copyright pending: Gael Greene 2007
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