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FEBRUARY'S FAB FIVE

As Spain's winemaking revolution continues to flourish, one of the next hot spots promises to be Jumilla, 150 miles southeast of Madrid. Along with Quinta do Noval's Nacional vineyard and Bollinger's Vignes Françaises, Jumilla was one of the few places in Europe spared during the Phylloxera epidemic of the late 1800's. Virtually everywhere else on the continent, vineyards were devastated and, to this day, can only be planted when grafted onto American rootstock. Jumilla's Secret? For Jumilla, the key to its vineyards' survival was their sandy soil-which is anathema to the Phylloxera insect. As a glorious consequence, Jumilla not only has some of the oldest vines in the world, but also the largest number of ungrafted vines. Most of these vines are Mourvèdre-or Monastrell as it is locally known-one of the most prized varieties of Mediterranean Europe. And Jumilla's summers boast hot days and cool nights, perfect for ripening grapes, while maintaining acidity.Today, Jumilla is awakening to its vast potential, and a winemaking revolution has followed-led by growers like Olivares' Paco Selva. He owns 65+ hectares of ungrafted old vineyards in the northern part of the appellation, in La Hoya de Santa Ana. It is the coolest sub-zone of Jumilla, with sandy, lime-rich soils that yield intensely aromatic wines, while protecting the ungrafted vines from Phylloxera. Altos de la Hoya Monastrell is a perenial best buy and a great value. It has ripe, powerful scents of blackberry, cassis and candied plum, fat and lush, with deep, sweet blackcurrant and blackberry flavors and no rough edges. Finishes dense, fresh and long, with a repeating blackberry note. This has the concentration and sappy texture of a much more expensive wine. 

   

Domaine de Fontenille

"Côtes du Luberon"

   2007

 (Provence, France)

Normal Retail $14.99  February Price $12.99

 

  The Leveque brothers, Jean and Pierre, make the most Chateauneuf-like wine of the Luberon (the part of Provence east of Avignon and north of Aix, along the Durance). Pierre did his apprenticeship with Paul Avril at Clos du Pape, which might explain in part why Robert Parker described the '92 Fontenille as a wine that "resembles Beaucastel." Another reason could be the cepages-nearly 50% each Grenache and Syrah. Yet another reason might be the extremely low yields-at the levels of appellation Chateauneuf. The result, a fabulous, big wine, yes, like Chateauneuf for much less money, but also a wine with its own unique character.This has been a consistent winner from importer Peter Weygandt since he first brought the Domaine du Fontenille to the attention of American wine consumers in the early nineties. A blend of 70% Grenache (50- to 60-year-old vines) and 30% Syrah, yields are kept modest, and the wine is aged in concrete tanks for over a year prior to being bottled without filtration. A super-aromatic example of the vintage, the 2007 exhibits loads of pepper, earth, black cherry, and dusty, loamy soil notes. The wine's fruit, earthiness, and spiciness are all classic characteristics of Provence. Seriously endowed and medium to full-bodied with excellent purity and depth.

 

 

 

 

 

  Michel Gassier "Nostre Pais"      Costières de Nîmes

 2007

 (Southern Rhone, France)

Normal Retail $21.99  February Price $17.99

 

 

 Michel Gassier comes from a long line of winemakers so his degree in Agricultural Engineering naturally destined me to continuing in the family's footsteps. But the thirst for discovery, the desire for independence and freedom, and the need for challenges, led me to try my luck in the U.S. Excited by the positive work attitude and having found his soul mate stayed in the US for ten years before returning to Rhone Valley. In his own words " I want to make honest wines, wines with strong personalities that fully express their terroirs and the dreams of their winegrower. I hope that they will evoke in you some of the emotions and sensations of my Mediterranean childhood: the warm caress of the wind laden with the opulent scent of parasol pines, the glimpse of a darting lizard amidst the rolled pebbles of the vineyards..." Don't know about all that but the wines are excellent. Nostre Pais is  a new cuvée that represents his search for elegance, purity and mineral/terroir expression.  Grape ripeness is not pushed to the outer limits, sorting is drastic, oak aging is kept to a minimum, and blending includes all 5 varietals of our appellation (Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah). and the winemaking style is as non interventionist as possible. The nose is pure and complex with black fruit, cherry, and stones and a dense & velvety body fills the palate and reveals notes of cacao, dried herbs and pencil lead. The fresh and fruity finish is heightened by mineral notes and fine tannins. 

 

 

 

 

 

  Chateau des Roques Vacqueryas 

 (Southern Rhone, France)

 2007

Normal Retail $23.99  February Price $18.99

 

 

 In Vacqueyras, in the shade of the plane trees, one finds the Chateau des Roques and their splendid vineyard of 36 hectares nestled on a stony plate. In the 18th century, the property consisted of the Hamlet des Roques which included the dwellings, a cellar and sheep-folds built out of dry stones. The estate lies in a fine position between the villages of Vacqueyras and Sarrians.Vacqueyras has been the label of origin controlled since it's approval in 1990. The owner, Pierre Seroul, and the winemaker André Fregière combined their passions to produce a great vintage in 2007. A garnet-red with flavors that are intense and spicy are the halmarks of this wine. In the nose, one picks up  black fruits and spices which intermingle. Fatty and full, a beautiful perfeectly balanced wine.This is full of warm, aromatic, spicy fruit flavors with just a touch of lavender and thyme in the background. The wines made at château du roques are impeccably made and are deliciously easy to drink.