By Jed Duguid   

 A very common request from our clients is to plant screening trees. Many of us here in Fairfield County live closer to our neighbors than we would prefer. It's not that we don't love our neighbors--in fact it's quite the opposite. We love them so much we don't want to expose them to our naked morning coffee routine, or whatever. It may not be a neighbor's house we don't want to see--it may be a heavily traveled road, a shed or swing set, or perhaps a fence or a commercial building. Some people just don't like the look of the "woods" their property abuts, sometimes we like the feel of an enclosed outdoor room or perhaps it just feels nice when your yard has good privacy. And that's most often what it's about. There are many good options for screening in almost any situation.

What makes good screening? I guess the easy answer is anything that blocks or obscures what you don't want to see. More often than not you probably want something evergreen, although in some instances deciduous plants can accomplish the desired level of privacy. Either you don't need the screening in the winter or the structure provides enough to achieve the desired effect. Many coniferous plants lose their lower branches with age, so avoid species, such as white pine, that self prune and lose their capacity to screen as they mature. There are many factors to consider when choosing screening plants. Site factors such as sun, soil, and moisture availability need to be matched with plant characteristics such as density, growth rate, ultimate size, whether they are shade or sun tolerant, and if deer tolerant. The following are some of our favorite screening choices for a variety of situations.

Picea: Spruce. There all kinds of spruces - Norway, Serbian, White, Blue and Oriental among others. You need good space for spruces as most of them will get a 15-20' spread or more at the bottom (of course there are exceptions). You also need sharp drainage and over a half day of sun for most spruce to remain full, happy and healthy. Many spruce look quite dramatic with age as their boughs curve skyward. They tend to be fast growing plants putting on more than one foot per year and deer dislike most spruce. We have witnessed, on multiple properties, browsing on Picea orientalis--oriental spruce. In a large yard, one strategically placed Norway spruce (admittedly not the most exciting of plants but a beautiful majestic tree just the same) can hide a neighbor's house. If room permits stagger their positions for a more natural look, rather than a row of Christmas trees.

Thuja plicata: Western Red Cedar. Quickly becoming the most common screening plants used for a number of reasons. They are fast growing, relatively slender, upright conical trees, putting on upwards of three feet growth in a single season. They are tolerant of dry sites as well as sites too wet for most spruce to grow. They can grow in less than half a day of sun, though they will still want a few hours of direct sun. If you have a shadier site, it also helps tremendously if you start with younger plants that will be able to adjust better. They stay full to the ground for many years--even on sites where deer spend a lot of time! I have three game trails that converge in my meadow where I have a group of Thuja plicata 'Spring Grove' that help to hide a heavily traveled road. I'm not missing so much as a bite off them. The United States National Arboretum bred western red cedar with Japanese arborvitae to come up with the wildly popular interspecific hybrid 'Green Giant'. There are reports of browse damage in Westchester County on 'Green Giant' specifically, but they remain uneaten here for now.

Calocedrus decurrens: Incense Cedar (syn. Libocedrus decurrens) is a great option with an incredibly vibrant green color through the seasons. Incense cedar is a moderate grower, putting on anywhere from one to two and half feet of growth in a season. They are somewhat shade tolerant and very drought tolerant. They are not the densest of plants, but they certainly are effective screens. Deer seem to love them, so additional plants may be necessary at the base, or use them in a situation where the undesirable object is higher elevation and the lack of lower branches doesn't matter. Because they have a more oval shape, you'll get better coverage up high faster than you would with a narrow conical plant like the western red cedars. Paul loves to add cuttings of Incense cedars to wreaths at Christmas, along with the next option...

Ilex opaca: American holly. American holly is the quintessential holly that doesn't feel good when you rub against them. However, if height isn't the issue American holly is the way to go. They are slow growers putting on just six to 12 inches per year. If they are in a wet, sunny site--and they love wet--they will tend towards the latter. While deer eat many of the Japanese and blue hollies, they leave American holly alone. Songbirds, however, don't. They are also shade tolerant. The broad leaves of cultivars like 'Miss Helen' and 'Satyr Hill' are fantastic in juxtaposition to any of the coniferous options for a great textural addition.

Thujopsis dolobrata: Staghorn cedar (aka Japanese elkhorn cypress and about 20 other common names) is one of the most underutilized species in the nursery industry. Despite its name, deer are not as fond of this as you might think. It's actually a pretty fast grower putting on as much as two feet per year. It is somewhat bushy as a young plant but as it starts to gain height it becomes pyramidal and majestic. It is very sun and shade tolerant, though it does not like dry shade. It has a very coarse texture, as far as conifers go, which mixes in the landscape nicely. The only downside is they are only available as young three to four foot plants.

Thuja occidentalis: Emerald Green arborvitae ('Smaragd'). I would be remiss if I didn't mention Emerald Green arborvitae. If you have full sun and no deer, no other plant makes as nice a green screen as Emerald Green. One of the first things people notice when they pull into Oliver's is the serpentine hedge of Emerald Greens along our parking area. They remain very slender so are the perfect choice where space is not abundant. They grow somewhat slowly but are readily available from 3' to 14' and will grow to 20 to 25'. We like to stager the size in the serpentine hedge to add more depth and character. They make a fantastic foil for any bedding plants (or any plants) that you might want to plant in front of them. Just remember if plants are growing into them and shading them they may get a little loose looking at the bottom. For many years this was by far the most popular screening plant we carried. It would probably still be today, if it were not a favorite treat of deer. Emerald Greens are a perfect choice for the spatially-challenged with only a three foot width at the bottom over many years. Planting a small grouping of three--again with mixed sizes--will do the job of screening out a neighbors shed or woodpile.

Mixed border: There is no law that says you need to have a monoculture hedge if you need screening. A mixed border of conifers and other evergreens can really make a knock-out statement. You should definitely consider this option if you have a large area to screen, so you don't end up looking like you have started a Christmas tree farm. By using a few different species, it can read more like a garden. It will add some spice to your property, and provide screening at the same time. Just be very careful because if not planned well, it can look like a terrible mess! 

Screening trees don't necessarily need to be planted on the property line to be effective at screening. You can use the topography to your favor. If you sit atop a hill and your neighbor sits below you with the property line at the bottom of the hill, planting trees at the crest of the hill will hide your problem much faster than planting at the bottom of the hill. It's like getting instant extra growth. Sometimes you may not need a hedge at all, one or two strategically placed plants can often block more than you think. Before investing in a large hedge take a good look at the area and see where exactly you need to screen. Bring us some photos (not on your Blackberry®!) of your sore spots and we'll help you come up with a solution. 

Monoculture in Troughs   

By Lori Chips

I will always harbor a strong abiding affection for the miniature landscape. I love mixed troughs holding combinations of species and rocks: here a mesa, there a gorge, a meadow, some cascaders. A well-put-together trough is so much more than the sum of its parts. Its ability to enchant is powerful.

But lately I have been playing with a variety of different shaped containers planted up with only one species, sometimes only one plant. This is known as monoculture: cultivating only one thing in one place. I am not referring to the classic Sempervivum or succulent bowl. That is always a stunning and wonderful way to use a trough--a great set-piece for patio or step. But it does involve weaving together varieties of hens and chicks and sedums, usually all on one level, to form what becomes a Persian carpet of color and texture. What I am proposing is even simpler than that.  

For instance: I have planted a collection of miniature urns with one single different plant in each: the blue-grey of Dianthus freynii; the apple green of Gypsophila bungeana; the silver of Artemisia; and the cranberry (in winter) of Sedum 'Coral Carpet.' This is ridiculously easy to accomplish, and the look is captivating, modern, and clean. I assemble these urns loosely on a step or two, or in a corner, or the base of a wall. They look good gathered together in threes and fives. When you think about it, it's a kind of "deconstructed" container gardening. We have all heard about famous chefs serving "deconstructed" this or that, taking a classic like eggs Benedict, or cassoulet, or paella, and serving the parts separately. Think of it the same way. We are giving each alpine the conditions it will thrive in, and we are choosing the trough's shape, size, depth and height with care. Then we are selecting a single texture to go inside each, and being impeccable with grooming. (In other words, plant neatly and mulch well so no soil or perlite appears on the surface.)   

I have even taken a three-leveled trough and planted each level with the same mini groundcover. I have also used several bowls of varying sizes, and cylinders of different heights. The effect is very Zen, and very calm. Think of it this way: instead of assembling your composition inside one larger trough, you are planting things separately and making a pleasing arrangement after the fact. I have used Penstemons, Pinus, Antenarias, Drabas, Erigerons, and silver Saxifrages. Just remember to site them where the plants want to be, and care for them as you would any other trough.   

One pretty terrific bonus is this: with all the concentration on shapes (the troughs) and texture (the foliage), one just about forgets about the flowers--until they arrive--adding just that much more spice to your deconstructed dish.