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Winter Season Pruning
By
Paul Janisch
During the "off" months of winter we as gardeners have a
chance to make an assessment of our surroundings. With the copious rainfall we
received this year the plants responded with vigorous and at times surprising
amounts of growth. In our
assessment, there are times when we realize that some plants have gotten out of
hand and need to be scaled back. Now is a good time to do this.
Deciduous trees and shrubs have dropped their leaves making
the branching structure more visible. The way is clear to make the right decisions as to what should be cut
and what should remain. There are three basic steps to follow while pruning.
First, cut out any dead or diseased wood. Second, remove any crossing branches
that would interfere with future growth and third, prune to shape the plant
with an eye to the overall aesthetic. Never remove more than a third of the
total tree or shrub and take your time. Think before making each cut, once it
is done it can't be put back.
A couple of things to keep in mind; if the shrub is spring
blooming, in the process of pruning you will also be removing flower buds.
Prune only as necessary unless there is a reason to prune the shrub back
drastically and bloom is not of consequence. Trees such as maples, beech and
birch have a tendency to "bleed" from pruning cuts. Therefore it is far better
to complete pruning on these at the beginning of winter, giving the cuts a
chance to season or heal before the sap flows in spring. The experts tell us
that pruning when the wood is frozen is not a healthy practice. Making cuts on
very cold days can damage cells in the frozen wood and proper healing will be
hampered. So save your pruning for a nice sunny day that is above 35 degrees.
As in any task, the condition of the tools you use makes a
big difference in the success of the job at hand. Keep your pruning tools
clean, sharp and lubricated. Hand pruners are perfect for any branch smaller
than your thumb, loppers can be used on branches up to the size of a rake handle.
Branches larger than six inches should be tackled with a sharp bow saw or
chainsaw. Making clean cuts as you prune is as important as making well chosen
cuts. It is only with well maintained and sharp tools that this is possible.
Never prune just for the sake of pruning, a
bit of advance research on the growth habit of your plants will be helpful. Now
is the time to enjoy this less hectic gardening season. |
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Trough Tips for Winter
By
Lori Chips
The
best way to care for your trough as we approach winter will depend on what you
have growing in it, and where you have it placed in the garden. For plants that
are highly sensitive to wet, especially those with silver foliage, it can be a
good insurance policy to provide some overhead cover. This can be as simple as
tucking the trough under the house eaves or as complicated as building a
special hard plastic roof to fit over it. Do not encase the container in soft
plastic, however, as that can do more harm than good. Allow plenty of air
circulation for alpines, even in the colder seasons; these plants come from
high, windswept elevations, after all.
If your trough contains dwarf conifers, be aware that many can be prone
to winter burn and dehydration if in an exposed position. Chamacyparis and
upright junipers like J. communis 'Compressa'
can be martyrs to this especially. A general recommendation is to see that your
trough is not in a wind tunnel, nor situated so that it will bear the brunt of
a southern exposure. Sun reflecting off of snow can also do damage. Almost
everybody has a foundation planting or a shrub border facing in a gentler
direction, and this would be ideal.
 In some cases moving
a trough or troughs can be a hardship or just too much of a project. Here at
the nursery we try to get most of them down off their bricks or blocks, but
some are simply too enormous to move. Breakage most often occurs while moving
them, particularly venerable old ones; and the decision to let them be is the
right one. (I will never advocate leaving a trough up on a windy deck, but one
must be realistic about how "heroic" our measures will be.) There happens to be
a very skilled and knowledgeable chapter of the North American Rock Garden
Society (NARGS) located right in Manhattan, and they have no choice but to
garden on balconies and rooftops. Having seen their work, I can attest to its
success!
 The alternation of
freezing and thawing is certainly one of the most destructive forces these
containers face. It harms the plants and can also crack the trough. At the very
least it can subtract years off its longevity. Any trick that keeps the soil
frozen will benefit both. Topping off the gravel mulch will help protect the
plant crowns. Sometime around the holidays you might consider placing evergreen
boughs over your trough. Evergreens are springy and have the advantage of
allowing some air underneath them. Do not use anything that will smother the plants
and be sure to remove the protective cover before growth resumes in the spring.
I have occasionally moved a patio table overtop of a vulnerable trough that was
impractical to move. Do not use a glass topped table, which can concentrate the
winter light and scorch the plants. A cold weather cover for your trough can
consist of anything that works. Difficult but desirable plants are the mother
of invention. Personally, I like to worry less about "putting it all to bed"
and view it more as a learning opportunity. At my house, it has been years since I put a trough
in a cold frame. I now tend to try different plants in various exposures in
different troughs. Finally, though, I find that most troughs and the plants in
them are pretty amenable to being left right where they are. Be brave. You may
be pleasantly surprised.
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Today's gift...that can be planted anytime. For the plant lover or the new homeowner, a nursery gift certificate makes a most appropriate holiday, birthday, or anniversary present. Available at the nursery for pickup, or we would be happy to send the certificate direct to the recipient for you.
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 Winter Hours: Mid-November to February; Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m.
For more information visit our Web site at www.olivernurseries.com, or call us at 203-259-5609.
Image in header: Detail from Spring, engraving by Bruegel. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Dick Fund, 1926.
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