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 Landscape Design Solutions
By Jim Gerrity
As you may or may not know, Oliver Nurseries offers landscape design services. Knowing where to place a plant on a property is just as important as choosing the right plant. No matter how beautiful a plant may be if it's in the wrong location, chances are it will not have the desired effect. That's where we can help. Over the years, I have been asked to fix many landscapes that just "don't seem to work". The reasons vary, but often they share a common mistake, lack of planning. Too often, only a plant's aesthetic value is considered before a purchase. Thought also should always be given to the growing requirements of the plants, their ultimate size, and most importantly the problem you are trying to solve.
"Why did you plant a weeping cherry tree three feet away from your house?" is a question I have had to ask more than once. "Because when I planted it there three years ago, it looked great", is a common answer. Unfortunately this tree will grow up to 30 feet tall and wide. Clearly three feet away from a house is going to require quite a lot of pruning. I would have suggested either choosing a plant more appropriate for the size restrictions or planting a weeping cherry at least 15 feet away from the house to allow for full growth.
"What are those brown twigs under your Pine trees? Oh I see those are the remains of some unfortunate shrubs. What were they doing there?" Sadly, I have seen more plants subjected to this type of slow torture than I can bear. Without water and sun a plant cannot survive. Unless your plant is guilty of some unspeakable offense, planting it under a pine tree that shades all direct sunlight and sheds away the rain with its canopy is the equivalent of a death sentence to the poor plant.
 Now, I know these are some extreme examples of mistakes, but the point that I'm trying to get across is that you should know what you need before you decide what you want. If you have nothing but shade in your yard, sun loving plants are not for you. If your property is small, then planting trees that can grow very tall and wide are probably a bad idea. The better way to decide on what to plant is to access what your needs are and then seek out a plant that will address your concerns.
Start by evaluating your property. Is there a bad view you want to hide, like the Chrysler K-car that Mother Nature is reclaiming in the Bumpass's yard next door? Perhaps there is an attractive view of your other neighbor's well maintained perennial garden that you want to appreciate without paying for royalties rights. Or, is your house too large on the outside to relate to human scale? (This is the most common and the most unrecognized issue in my opinion). The list goes on, but the point is that you need to find the problem, before you can find a solution.
As you start thinking about next season and your next project, please feel free to give us a call so we can help you develop a plan. We'll not only help you choose the right plants, we can also propose a landscape plan for your whole property including hardscape components such as masonry and driveways. Please don't wait until you realize your landscape solution "didn't work"....give us a call. |
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Fall into Winter--Cutting Back Perennials
By Kim Proctor
When the frost has settled in and the perennial garden is shifting toward hibernation, it is time to pull out the pruning shears and clean up. This does not mean that you clear cut the garden from one end to the other. The seeds of numerous perennials, like Echinacea and Rudbeckia, are an excellent food supply for the birds and can remain standing. Ornamental grasses and many varieties of Sedum offer terrific winter interest. These can be cut back in spring as new growth emerges. Start your fall clean up by disposing of, rather than composting, any diseased or mildewed portions of the plants. Then judiciously prune the remaining plants, taking into consideration what type of perennial they are. Perennials fall roughly into three categories, making the difference in how they are treated in the fall.
Truly herbaceous perennials are those that die back completely to the ground. Plants in this group include Peonies, (but NOT woody Tree Peonies, which will die if cut back), Phlox paniculata, and Hosta. Be careful when raking up spent leaves that the 'eyes' or leaf buds that lie below soil level are not damaged. The dead stalks of the plants can be cut to 2-3" from the ground. (Figure 1)
Semi-evergreen plants are those that hold a rosette of green basal leaves though the winter. The browned stems of these plants can be removed just above that green crown of leaves. Salvia, Heuchera, Achillea, Leucanthemum are among those considered to be semi-evergreen. (Figure 2)
The third group is made up of perennials with evergreen foliage. These should only be trimmed of broken or diseased portions. Plants of this group also add winter interest with their color & form. Evergreen perennials include Lavendula, Helleborus, Iberis, Euphorbia and Dianthus. (Figure 3)
Gardens that are tended to in the fall will be pleasing to the eye though the winter, and will rebound with health and vigor in the spring.
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 Fairfield's Fantastic Trees Contest
Share a photo, drawing or story about
a remarkable tree!
Sponsored By:
The Fairfield Forestry Committee and
Fairfield Museum and History Center
Entry categories include:
Largest tree; strangest tree; most beautiful tree; most interesting personal story about a tree
OPEN TO ALL AGES
CERTIFICATES AWARDED TO ALL PARTICIPANTS
Entrees can be dropped off to the Fairfield Museum from: December 1-20, 2008
Pick up entry forms and instructions at Sullivan Independence Hall (Selectman's Office), Fairfield Library or download from http://www.fairfieldct.org/forestry-photocontest.pdf |
 Fall Hours: September-Mid-November; Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-5 p.m.; Sunday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
Winter Hours: Mid-November-February; Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m.
For more information visit our Web site at www.olivernurseries.com, or call us at 203-259-5609.
Image in header: Detail from Spring, engraving by Bruegel. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Dick Fund, 1926.
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