Snow Mold is a fungal disease that appears in the early spring as the snow melts. There are two types of snow mold, grey and pink. Pink mold infects the crown of the plant and can cause more injury than gray mold which only infects the leaf tissue.  Snow mold damage looks like circular patches (3"-12") of dead and matted grass.  It is not uncommon to find both gray and pink snow mold together.  Pink snow mold is distinguished by the pink color of the web-like mycelium growing on the grass surface. While the grass is wet, the mycelium starts out white and resembles cobwebs. As it matures, it turns its pink or salmon color. The mycelium quickly disappears as the grass dries.  Gray snow mold is similar to pink snow mold except that its mycelium remains whitish-gray. Gray snow mold is also well-known by the company of tiny black mycelia masses on the grass blades and leaf covers of infected plants.  Snow mold is caused when there is an extended period of snow cover on ground that is not fully frozen.  It can also be brought on by a badly timed fertilizer application which causes a flush of growth too late in the fall. Snow mold can also occur under leaves that have not been cleaned up or amongst long grass that should have been mowed once more before winter set in.  To minimize the risk of snow mold occurring on the lawn it is important to "put the lawn to bed" properly.  Avoid excessive nitrogen fertilizers in the fall, then mow the lawn until it stops growing, clean up leaves in the fall and manage thatch to avoid buildups of more than 2".  Although it can look really nasty in the early spring, most snow mold damage will recover in time. Once the area has dried, the infection will cease and the turf will grow out and renew itself. To speed up the process, the infected area can be lightly raked to encourage drying. Some overseeding may be necessary and if the damage is extremely severe, topdressing can be applied and areas can be repaired like a bare patch.  Repair a bare patch on a lawn and quickly have it blend in with this 20 minute easy, step by step process. 

Here's How:

1. Rake and remove any debris or dead grass from the area.

2. Break up the soil with a hard toothed lawn rake or a garden cultivator.

3. Add about 2 inches of compost or loam and incorporate it into the existing soil with the rake.

4. Turn the rake upside down, use the top edge to even out the surface, spread some of the mix to the adjacent areas.

5. Sprinkle seeds evenly across the area, thick enough to cover the surface, but not so thick that the seeds pile up on top of each other. Use the appropriate seed for your region and micro-climate (sun or shade).  Perennial ryegrass should be a part of the blend for its ability to quickly germinate.

6. Add a starter fertilizer, preferably one containing a selective, pre-emergent weed control like Tupersan. This will get the grass seed to grow but not any weed seeds. This step is optional for organic lawns or for budget concerns. However, if synthetic starter fertilizer is not used, be sure to use good compost and/or organic fertilizer.

7. Lightly rake in the seed and fertilizer to a depth of about 1/2 an inch. Be careful not to rake away the seed and fertilizer from its desired location.

8. Use a roller or just step down repeatedly on the patch to ensure soil to seed contact and lightly water the area. Keep the seedlings moist throughout the day until they're an inch or so high.  After a couple of mowing's, the patch should blend right in with the rest of your lawn.

Tips:

1. A garden cultivator is excellent for loosening the soil.

2. Use straw mulch to cover the patch. It provides shade and prevents the seedlings from drying out.

3. Try to time repairs with appropriate weather for germination and growth. (just before it rains) Avoid drought or stress conditions.