Lavender does not like being cut all the way to the ground.If they are, it usually leads to their demise. It is also not good to prune plants back in the cool months of fall and winter. The best time to prune is in the spring and in some cases after their first bloom.
   If lavender is pruned in the fall or winter it stimulates the plant to grow, which wastes energy the plant would need in the spring to produce new growth. Instead the plant begins to produce new growth in the cooler months and when the frost comes it kills the plant. The best time to prune lavender is when you see a little green start to appear. Then you can begin to remove the dead tips of branches and old flowers. After the plants flowers fade it is time to dead head the plant and shape it. When pruning lavender it may be easier to grab a bunch of dead flowers and cut them all off at once as opposed to trying to remove each one individually. 

   There are several things to consider before you begin your container garden:
·  Will the plant be indoors or outdoors?
·  Does the plant need sun or shade?
·  What else is going in the pot?
·  Will the containers be in the way?
·  What kind of containers do you need for different types of plants?
 
Containers allow you to enjoy plants in areas where a traditional garden is awkward or impossible. It also enables you to experiment with plants and to optimize or to control environmental conditions. You can also control the soil type and how it drains in a container when you can't always control it in your yard. Controlling all these things allows you to plant what you want and to also plant things that maybe you typically were not able to plant before.
   Having plants in containers provides mobility. If you plant a plant in a pot and put it in the sun in the morning you can move it into the shade so that the afternoon heat does not beat down on it all day. Plants in containers can be arranged to your liking as well. Being able to easily move the containers allows you to have more control over pest management because the infected plant can be removed from the other plants and treated before the problem spreads. Large containers can be moved with a garden dolly.
   When choosing a container you can use what is typical, or you can become a little more creative.
·  Garden poles have become very popular and are great for growing large amounts of vegetables or flowers in a small area. (For example, upside down tomato plants)
·  Hanging baskets are good for spotlighting plants that you might not notice on the ground. They also change your eye's focus from the ground to a different height level.
·  Window boxes compliment the front of the house or office building.
·  Raised beds are nice along homes or apartment buildings, which allows roof runoff to water your plants. Make sure to be aware of the shade tolerance of the plant if putting it next to the house and not out in the yard.
·  Terra cotta pots are good for plants that roots need to breath. They also hold warmth, which may require additional watering in the hot summer months.
·  Stone containers will add a natural effect to your home or garden. They may break easily, and some are extremely heavy to move. Make sure that when you use stone, the location is more on the permanent side. You need to take into consideration freezing and thawing. These along with terra cotta pots may need to be moved indoors during the winter. They will definitely crack during winter month. I have experience in this department. Quite an expensive mistake.
·  Plastic pots are the most common, especially when you buy plants in the store. They are easy to move, and to clean. They can simulate terra cotta, but plastic can be a bit suffocating to the plant.
·  You can go out and be creative and use any other kind of container you may find. An old wheel barrow might be nice, or a shoe or basket, or an old fashioned bath tub or row boat.

    If you work or spend time in wooded or grassy areas, you should be aware of the dangers of Lyme disease. In 2008, nearly 28,921 cases of Lyme disease were reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). Lyme disease is an infection caused by a bacterium, Borrelia burgdorferi, which is transmitted through bites from infected eastern black-legged ticks. Lyme disease is not spread from person to person, only through the tick. Cases of Lyme disease are most common in large areas of the northeast. The debilitating effects of Lyme disease can include severe headaches, arthritis, cardiac abnormalities and central nervous system involvement leading to neurological disorders. If detected early, Lyme disease can usually be treated very successfully.
    Most ticks favor a moist, shaded environment, especially areas with leaf litter and low lying vegetation in wooded, brushy or overgrown grassy habitat. The majority of Lyme disease cases result from the bites of infected nymphs which feed in spring and early summer. Deer ticks feed on blood under the skin. They are slow feeders and will feed for three to five days. If the deer tick is infected, it must be attached for 24-48 hours before it transmits Lyme disease.
    According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, the first sign of infection is usually a circular, spreading rash known as erythema migrans (EM). A distinctive feature of the rash is that it gradually expands over a period of several days, reaching up to 12 inches across. The center of the rash may clear as it enlarges, leaving a bull's-eye appearance.
 
Early Symptoms:
· Swelling of the lymph nodes near the tick bite
· Headache
· Joint pain
· Chills, fever and fatigue
 
Later Symptoms:
· Two or more areas of rash not at the site of the bite
· Severe headache
· Enlarged lymph nodes
· Joint/neck stiffness
· Facial paralysis
· Tingling and numbness in the extremities
· Irregular heart rhythm
· Fever
· Arthritis, especially in the arms and legs
· Memory lapses (rare in children and teens)
 
Prevention:
· Scan clothes and any exposed skin frequently for ticks
· Use insect repellent containing DEET on exposed skin other than face
· Wear long pants, long-sleeved shirts, socks and a hat.
· Tuck pant-legs into socks
· Wear light colored clothing to make it easier to spot ticks
· Wash clothing in hot water and dry in dryer for at least one hour to ensure ticks are dead
· Check yourself carefully for embedded ticks when showering and dressing. Common places for ticks are armpits, scalp, and groin.
 
Removal:
· Using a pair of fine-pointed tweezers, grasp the tick by the head or mouthparts right where they enter the skin. DO NOT grasp the tick by the body.
· Pull firmly and steadily directly outward. DO NOT twist the tick, or apply any petroleum jelly, a hot match, or any other irritant. They will not help get the tick out.
· Clean the bite with disinfectant.
· Watch the site of the bite for the appearance of a large rash beginning 3 to 30 days after the bite.
 
Remember that if caught early enough Lyme disease is usually very treatable. Make sure to check yourself regularly and try to be safe when working and playing outdoors.

   Ground ivy is a creeping winter perennial. The leaves are round to kidney shaped with round toothed edges. The leaves are opposite on long petiole attached to square stems that root at the nodes. It is usually found in moist shaded areas, but also tolerates sun very well. Ground ivy will form dense mats which can take over areas of turf grass. The flowers of ground ivy are blue to lavender and grow in clusters. They usually flower in the spring. Ground ivy spreads by stolons and sometimes by seed.
   Ground ivy is a highly aggressive plant species which will quickly invade turf areas from adjacent properties or ornamental planting areas. The stem runners can be several feet long, and the failure to remove all plants along the entire length will result in re-infestation. All planted ornamental beds must be cleaned out as well. Maintenance of dense strands of turf grass with good insect and disease control and a sound fertility program will help prevent major infestations. 
   Ground ivy in turf areas which must be maintained to high specification will require the application of a postemergent broadleaf herbicide, generally in sequential applications every three to four weeks. This is a very hard weed to control. If you see it, immediately remove it before it gets invasive.

 
Happy Mother's Day Mom!