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News and Notes
Hewson Landscape Inc.
January 2011
In This Issue
Degradable Pots vs. Plastic
Strategies to Control Deer Damage
Frost Bite
Fig Trees
Message From The President

Happy New Year! The Big Chill has arrived. With the holidays behind us, now is the time to recharge our batteries, repair  all equipment that was used during the year and continue to attend industry trade shows and seminars. History does tend to repeat itself. One trade show that is coming up is ConExpo in Las Vegas. This is one of the largest Trade Shows for the EarthShelly Moving Industry, and it is so big, it only occurs once every three years. This might be a possibility for attendance this year. We make a living by what be get, we make a life by what we give. (quoted from Jenelle Summers) Looking forward to an optimistic and improved economy for 2011.

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                                Cheers,

                               

Degradable Pots vs. Plastic
SoilWrap
SoilWrap 

Traditional plastic plant containers are a bulky byproduct of most landscape installations.  The green industry is looking to change that with more widespread use of degradable pots.  Each year more options enter the market and many have made their way to landscape garden centers.  Here's what you need to know about the alternative containers: SoilWrap is a bio-based, plantable container from Ball Innovations.  It's made from Mirel, a renewable, biodegradable and environmentally friendly material.  This container recently won a Greener Package Award in a competition sponsored by Summit Publishing's Greener-Package.com.  Drew Effron, product manager for Ball Innovations, says studies they've done indicate a labor savings of 30-40 percent when plantable containers are used for installations.  Time and effort are saved by not having to dislodge plants from pots and then clean up afterward.  SoilWrap will have a big roll out at next year's California Spring Trails.  Effron says results from testing show plants thrive in the packaging.  We've done a world of studies in both containers and in the ground, he says.  We show no ill effects.  Plants just grow right out the bottom of the container.  The current design has micro-perfs built into it, intended to allow quicker degradation once it's in the ground.  It allows roots to come out of the pot's sides.

BioPot
Biopot

Biopots are made from bamboo, rice husks and straw.  They are a toxic waste free, degradable substitute to plastic.  Grower pots range in size from 2 ½ inches up to 8 inches.  They last around one year planted outside and three years planted inside. 

Cow Pots
Cowpot

CowPots, are made from cow manure, which have been thoroughly tested and validated.  The natural absorbent texture of manure allows young roots to easily enter the sides and bottoms of CowPots.  This allows for air pruning and the formation of root buds and secondary root development throughout the pot, providing dense, healthy root systems.  CowPots stay intact for 12 weeks depending on the developing location and irrigation procedures used.  The nitrogen in composted cow manure helps the pots naturally biodegrade.  The pots come in 5-inch square and round, 6-cell flats and 3-inch round. 

Strategies to Control Deer Damage 
DeerDeer are destructive during the winter when other foods are less available.  There is no such thing as a deer proof plant, deer will eat anything.  There are some plants that deer will avoid when other food is accessible.  For trees, try Aesculus parviflora, Betula papyrifera, Cryptomeria japonica and Picea pungens glauca. For shrubs, try Asimina Triloba, Buddleia, Hibiscus syriacus and Mahonia aquifolium.  For ornamental grasses, try Acorus, Carex, Panicum virgautm and Pennisetum alopecuroides.  When plant selection doesn't keep the deer away, there are repellents available.  Here are some products that might help: Bobbex, Deer Away, Deer Guard, Deer Off, Deer Out, Deer Stopper, Deerbusters, Deer Pro, Dr. T's Deer Blocker, Shake Away, Gardener, Hinder, Liquid Fence, No Deer Zone, Not Tonight Deer, Plant Pro-Tec, Plantskydd and Sweeney's Deer Repellent.  The draw back in applying repellents is that they will diminish when we have heavy rain, leaving you vulnerable.  This usually happens when you're annuals and perennials look lush, you go away on the weekend and come back to celery stalks in your garden.  The best strategy I have found is to use deer fencing along with a cattle gate at the driveway entrance. This will give you the freedom to plant and design as you wish.
Frostbite
Frost BiteFrostbite is caused to skin due to extreme cold. It is likely to happen in body parts farthest from the heart and unprotected areas. The beginning stages of frostbite are sometimes called "frostnip".  At or below 0 °C (32 °F), blood vessels close to the skin start to tighten and blood is pushed away from the edges of the body. This can also happen with exposure to high winds.  Constriction helps to preserve core body temperature. In extreme cold or when the body is exposed to cold for long periods, this protective strategy can reduce blood flow in some areas of the body to dangerously low levels. This lack of blood leads to freezing and death of skin tissue in the affected areas. There are four degrees of frostbite.

·         First degree - This is called frostnip and only affects the surface skin, which is frozen. In the beginning there is itching and pain, and then the skin develops white, red, and yellow patches and becomes numb. The area affected usually does not become permanently damaged. Long-term sensitivity to both heat and cold can sometimes happen after suffering from frostnip.

  • Second degree - Second degree injury usually blisters 1-2 days after becoming frozen. The blisters may become hard and blackened, but look worse than they are. Most of the injuries heal in one month but the area may become permanently insensitive to both heat and cold.
  • Third and Fourth degrees - The muscles, tendons, blood vessels, and nerves will all freeze. The skin is hard, feels waxy, and use of the area is lost temporarily, and in severe cases, permanently. The deep areas are purplish blisters which turn black and are generally blood-filled. Nerve damage in the area can result in a loss of feeling. This may result in fingers and toes being amputated if the area becomes infected with gangrene and if untreated they may fall off.

Factors that contribute include extreme cold, inadequate clothing, wet clothes, wind chill, and poor circulation. Poor circulation can be caused by tight clothing or boots, cramped positions, fatigue, certain medications, smoking, alcohol use, or diseases that affect the blood vessels, such as diabetes.  Exposure to liquid nitrogen and other cryogenic liquids can cause frostbite.  The decision to thaw is based on proximity to a stable, warm environment. If rewarmed tissue ends up refreezing, more damage to tissue will be done. Too much movement of frostbitten tissue can cause ice crystals that have formed in the tissue and will do further damage. Splinting and/or wrapping frostbitten limbs are recommended to stop movement. For this reason, rubbing, massaging, shaking, or otherwise applying physical force to frostbitten tissues in an attempt to rewarm them can be harmful. Warming can be done in one of two ways, using body heat or room temperature to aid the person's body in rewarming itself. Active rewarming is the direct addition of heat to a person, usually in addition to the treatments included in passive rewarming. When performed, active rewarming seeks to warm the injured tissue as quickly as possible without burning them. This is desirable as the faster tissue is thawed, the less tissue damage occurs. Active rewarming is usually achieved by immersing the injured tissue in a water-bath that is held between 104-108F. Warming of peripheral tissues can increase blood flow from these areas back to the bodies' core. This may produce a decrease in the bodies' core temperature and increase the risk of irregular heartbeats. Debridement and or amputation of necrotic tissue are usually delayed. This has led to the saying "Frozen in January, amputate in July", with exceptions only being made for signs of infections or gangrene. A number of long term diseases can occur after frost bite. These include: transient or permanent changes in sensation, electric shocks, increased sweating, cancers, and bone destruction/arthritis in the area affected.   While extreme weather conditions (cold and wind) increase the risk of frostbite it appears that certain individuals appear more resistant to milder forms of frostbite, perhaps due to longer term exposure and adaptation to cold weather environments. 

Figs Trees

Fig Bush TreeFig trees typically grow to a height of 10 - 30 feet, with their branches spreading wider than their height.  Their wood is weak and rapidly decays.  Where branches have been shed or removed, the trunk will show large nodal tumors.  These trees will become extremely large and shade out anything planted underneath it.  Keep this in mind when searching for a spot to plant one.  They do like it hot, so planting this near a wall will allow it to bask in the reflected heat.  Fig flowers are located inside the green fruits.  The first crop of fruit shows up on last season's growth, called the breba crop.  The second crop shows up in the fall on new growth, which is known as the main crop.  In cold climate areas, this crop is often destroyed by spring frosts.  Young trees should be irrigated regularly until fully established.  If the leaves turn yellow and drop, this is an indication that it's not getting enough water.  Heavy pruning should only be done in the initial years.  Best to prune immediately after the main crop is harvested.  Frost protection is a must in our zone.  You can construct a frame over the plant, and supply a heavy cover.  The roots need to stay dry during winter, (from the freeze and thaw) so planting on a raised beam will also help.  Pests you'll encounter with a fig tree, will be gophers who like to eat the roots and birds that will cause damage to the fruit.  Beetles are another pest that can enter the ripening fruit.  When harvesting figs, the fruit must fully ripen on the tree.  Once picked, the fruit will only last 2-3 days in the refrigerator.  Fig trees require full sun all day to ripen fruits.  Their roots will travel far beyond their canopy and may be cut back without loss to the tree. 

 

This is a tasty appetizer I enjoy:

Skewer: ¼ slice of fresh fig with a small square of gruyere cheese and one mint leaf.  Delish!

Compliments of Betsy Algers from The Frog & The Peach in New Brunswick.

 
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or have a burning gardening question- call, email, snail mail, or stop by in person!
908-222-3616
Hewson Landscape Inc.
601 North Ave., Plainfield, NJ 07060

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