THE ROUSSILLON WINES OF
MICHEL CHAPOUTIER
Catalan Roussillon, France's sunniest region where the Pyr�n�es plunge into the Mediterranean, is often linked with the Languedoc region, but Roussillon is fast distinguishing itself and making its own reputation as a great site for outstanding wines. As it earns its mark, most of the wines from this region are substantially undervalued for the quality they deliver, relative to the rest of the world.
Many of Roussillon's wines benefit from volcanic soils of sorts seldom encountered in Languedoc. Furthermore, striking differences in soil and apparently corresponding differences in flavor across relatively short distances are more common here. Red wines of Roussillon are dominated to a greater extent by Grenache and Carignan than are their counterparts from the Languedoc. Roussillon's best whites - and make no mistake, a few of the world's most complex not to mention distinctively delicious white wines are issuing from this region - are quite a bit different from all but a handful of their Languedoc counterparts, favoring Grenache Gris, Grenache Blanc and Macabeu.
Roussillon is also beginning to bask in the light of some of the world's best wine producers, who are discovering this region and establishing operations here, Michel Chapoutier's domaine, established in 1993, being the most famous. With around 150 acres and more than 30 parcels of largely old vines under contract this is a major source for some of the most carefully crafted wines and among the finest values in the region. Chapoutier opines that after six years of biodynamic regimen on these wines (which includes working many of the parcels by horse) there has recently been a "crescendo in quality."
2010 MAISON CHAPOUTIER VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT, BLANC ($17.99 / $16.19 case). Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 90 points: "The 2010 Cotes du Roussillon Les Vignes de Bila-Haut blanc represents tank-raised Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, and Grenache Gris, some from chalky soils around Latour-de-France, but largely from granite heights in Lesquerde. A strikingly colorful aromatic display features pink grapefruit, peony, honeysuckle, and golden raspberry, all of which combine on a juicy, mouthwateringly saline palate, finishing with superb refreshment and length. What a fine introduction to Roussillon whites and terrifically versatile accompaniment at table this will make over the next 2-3 years if not beyond!"
2008 MAISON CHAPOUTIER VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT "OCCULTUM LAPIDEM" ($28.99 / $25.99 case): Wine Advocate 92 points: "The Bila-Haut 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Occultum Lapidem - as usual, a roughly two-to-one blend of Grenache and Syrah vinified in large casks and tank - mingles pungently resinous herbs, tart-edged fresh black fruits, and beef marrow in a context of textural richness yet surprising levity and uncanny sheer refreshment for a red wine. I am also amazed to realize that it harbors a more-or-less normal alcohol for this cuvee of 14.5%, even though it acts as though there could hardly be much more than 13%. Persistently high-toned evocations of flowers and garrigue herbs as well as a mouthwatering salinity add to the allure and the finish here will leave your tongue delightedly tingling and panting for repeat sips. The pleasure from this amazing value should be replicable for at least the next half dozen years."
Ask for the SPECIAL NEWSLETTER CHAPOUTIER SAMPLER: 6 bottles of each wine ($281.88 value) for $249.99.
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