THE BAROLO OF THE SOUTH
 
            To find the wine called the "Barolo of the South" you have to take one of Italy's sleek high-speed trains from Rome to Naples, rent a car and drive due east, leaving the beautiful islands of Ischia and Capri in your rear-view mirror and resisting mightily the temptation to head south past Pompei (or what's left of it) to Sorrento, the Amalfi coast, the Greek ruins at Paestum and other sights.  But that's just tourist fodder - you're seeking that very special wine from the region of Campania - Taurasi:  the Barolo of the South.  If you don't want to go on that excursion, you can drive to Grandfather Center in Banner Elk - Erick's has some.
 
            Like most European wines, it takes its name not from the grape (Aglianico) but from the place whence it comes, in this case the commune of Taurasi in the Province of Avelino.   This grape immigrated from Greece 2,600 years ago (about when Paestum was founded), but it was not until about 20 years ago that its rough-hewn tannic frame was tamed by modern winemakers.  Today, a growing number (but still relatively little) of world-class Taurisi are on the market.
 
            The best Aglianico grapes are grown on volcanic and limestone soils high on the slopes of the ancient volcanoes of southern Italy.  Under DOCG regulations (it was promoted from DOC in 1993), Taurasi wines must be aged at least three years (one of which must be in wood) to soften their aggressive tannins.  In the hands of a skilled producer, these wines take on the tarry nuances of their tannic soul mates from Barolo, but Aglianico features earthy notes reminiscent of saddle leather, tea leaves and cigar box against a fruit backdrop that suggests blackberries.  Both Taurasi and Barolo wines are big, brooding wines that age magnificently.  Often Taurasi wins the brooding contest.
 
            Brothers Luciano and Mario Ercolino, the former winemaker at Feudi di San Gregorio, have fashioned a masterpiece, and we are very happy to be able to offer you one of the stars of southern Italy - heck, all of Italy for that matter!  2004 Vinosia Taurasi (Campania, $26.99).  Tasting notes from Wine Spectator (93 points):  "Big, black and powerful, with concentrated black fruit and vanilla character.  Full-bodied, with robust but well-integrated tannins, giving a surprisingly silky feel to the palate. The finish is long and balanced. Modern, built to age, with loads of oak."   The Wine Spectator "experts" say to give this wine a year or two, but the "amateurs" who have tried it report on CellarTracker that this wine is drinking beautifully today.  Why don't you get some at Erick's and see who's right.