News and Tips from Shih Tzu Palace Puppies

Every time a novice owner looks at a beautiful Shih Tzu in the show ring with coat dragging on the ground, his first question is, "What product do you use to get such a beautiful coat?" To a great extent, a profuse coat is inherited; even more important, it is cared for carefully. Furthermore, no coat care product is the magic answer for every Shih Tzu coat. Different textured coats require different products, as do different climates. different tap waters, and your own life-style.

Do not be surprised if you get ten different product recommendations from ten different breeders or exhibitors, and don't be surprised, either, if none of them is exactly right for you. Most exhibitors have tried and discarded many products before finding what works best for them, and they often use different products on different dogs. Your best bet is to query someone whose dog has a coat texture similar to yours, but you will still probably have to experiment to see what works best on your particular dog. Use the recommendation as a guideline, not as gospel, and solicit several opinions.

Whatever grooming products you ultimately decide to use, there are certain basic techniques that remain the same. The most important thing is to brush your dog often enough so that large mats never have a chance to form. Many Shih Tzu "change coat" at about ten to twelve months of age. It seems, during this stage, that they mat faster than you can brush. Be patient, however, and keep brushing; this is a temporary stage that usually lasts for about three weeks, and once the dog has changed from his puppy coat to his adult coat, you will generally find him easier to care for. The amount of brushing required by an older dog depends on the texture of the coat--it can range anywhere from every day to once a week. Softer coats tend to tangle more quickly, particularly if they are very thick. Dirty coats also mat more easily, so be sure to bathe your dog as often as necessary (generally every three to four weeks). Never bathe a matted dog. Water tends to "set in" mats, making them almost impossible to remove.

Using a good quality wire brush with flexible pins, brush the coat in layers. Begin with the feet, legs, and belly and work upward to the center of the back. Mats are generally looser at the bottom, and you'll lose less coat this way. Be gentle, but be sure to brush all the way down to the skin, using your fingers to break up any tangles the brush will not go through easily. Do not rip at the coat, and lift the top of the brush away as you reach the ends of the hair instead of turning it into the coat and twisting it downward, which will break off the ends of the coat. Pay special attention to the areas inside the legs and around the neck and ears, where mats are most likely to form and most likely to be overlooked. Use a comb on the face and feet and under the ears, if necessary.

If you're new to all this, it's not a bad idea to use a wide-toothed comb or one of those combs with rotating teeth when you think you're through brushing to double-check that you've really gotten out all the mats. If you find any you've missed, revert to fingers and brush to remove them,. Never brush a totally dry coat, as static electricity increases breakage. Dampen the hair lightly first, using a spray bottle filled with water and a capful of cream rinse or coat conditioner. Mats will break up more easily if you saturate them with a conditioner/moisturizer first.

Pay special attention to the face and eyes. Comb the mustache and topknot daily, and clean the inside corners of the eyes with a damp washcloth or a piece of cotton soaked in warm water. Once your puppy has enough hair ( usually at about five months), tie up the topknot with a latex band (available at dog shows or from your dentist) to keep the hair out of his eyes, mouth, and food dish. In the beginning, you will have to put each band fairly low on the forehead to catch all the loose ends; do not pull the hair too tightly or the dog will rub at it.

As in any short-faced, large-eyed breed, the Shih Tzu has eyes that can easily be injured. Check them daily, and any time you see the dog squinting or rubbing at his eye. If your dog's eye is bloodshot, cloudy, or partially closed or has what appears to be a white dot in the pupil, take the animal to the veterinarian at once. Eye injuries can be very serious if they do not receive prompt attention; the sooner treatment begins, the more likely healing will be rapid and uneventful. A neglected eye ulcer can require surgery and even removal of the eye.

Keep a sharp lookout for external parasites, such as fleas and ticks. Almost overnight, one flea can make a dog scratch out a coat that took months to grow. And ticks are much less likely to transmit Lyme disease if they are removed promptly. If you have a parasite problem, remember that you must treat the house as well as the dog and that more, in terms of insecticides, is not only not better, but can make your dog very ill.

If your dog keeps sitting down or rubbing his rear end along the floor, his anal area may have become caked with fecal matter. Hold the affected area under warm running water, wash out the softened matter, wipe with paper toweling, and blow dry. It is not necessary to cut the hair.. As it grows longer, it will tend to fall naturally to either side rather than across the anal opening.

Suppose you went on vacation and the family neglected your coat care regimen and your dog's coat becomes full of mats. Such mats can be removed with a great deal of time and patience. The more time you are willing to spend, the less hair you will lose. If this happens very often, you may want to consider having your dog clipped. A skilled groomer can make him look quite attractive with an all-over short puppy clip or a more sophisticated trim that will make him look a bit like a Cocker Spaniel or a Schnauzer. However, much of the beauty of our dogs is in their long and flowing coats. If you have only one or two pets, why not spend some time to have them looking their very best?