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Getting Rid of Skunk Odor

There are four words every dog should know: Never chase a skunk. Skunks are well known for their defense system. They spray a thick, yellow, oily - and very stinky - secretion from two scent glands located on either side of the anus. The principle component of the odor is an organic compound called mercaptan, and that's why it smells so bad.

These smelly mercaptans - and they smell really bad - contain sulfur. In a concentrated form the smell is almost unbearable, but it takes only a few parts per million for the average nose to wrinkle. For this reason, mercaptans are added to odor-free natural gas so that we can detect leaks from the stove or furnace.

Skunk spray is a degradation product from urine. It is stored in anal sacs and released whenever the skunk feels threatened.

Skunks are not aggressive animals and would rather retreat from an enemy, but if threatened it will arch his back, raise his tail high, and start hissing and stomping his front feet on the ground. This is a warning. He may even do hand stands with his back and tail arched toward the enemy. Finally, he will bend into a U-shape with his head and his butt facing the enemy and let it go, directing his spray at the enemy's face.

Skunks are able to spray an enemy up to 16 feet away (accurately for the first 10 feet). An animal that chases or otherwise frightens a skunk may end up covered with this foul substance. Frequently, the face of the dog or cat is the primary target for the skunk spray. Along with the odor, the spray can produce nausea and burning of the eyes, although the effects are temporary and will not cause permanent damage. Nevertheless, if you notice redness, irritation or rubbing/pawing at the eyes, flush your pet's eyes and call your veterinarian.

More Serious Problems

Recently, there has been a report of skunk spray causing anemia in a dog. It is thought that the skunk spray contains substances, thiols and other compounds that act as strong oxidizing agents.

It was speculated that this spray was absorbed by the dog and caused methemoglobinemia and Heinz body anemia. If you dog has been sprayed with a skunk within the past 3 to 5 days and is exhibiting signs of lethargy, weakness, or discolored urine, see your veterinarian immediately.

De-odorizing Your Pet

Removing the skunk odor from your pet can be quite challenging. There are several chemical methods of removing or reducing odor: neutralizing the odor, bonding the odor particles and absorbing the odor. Some pets will continue to smell for weeks, especially when the environment is damp or their hair gets wet.

Neutralization works by combining two odors to create a third odor that is weaker in intensity and more pleasant.

Bonding works by temporarily changing the chemical structure of the odor particles. Unfortunately, this generally only lasts for up to four hours.

Absorption is another method which results in the odor particle being consumed by the odor control product particles.

Over the years, various products and recipes have been tried to diminish skunk odor. Some are more effective than others. Suggested methods for removing the odors include:
Many people have tried masking the skunk odor with perfumes and shampoos, but this rarely works since both the cover-up odor as well as the skunk odor can still be detected.

Bathing in tomato juice is a popular suggestion but is seldom thought to work.

The best home remedy for removing skunk odor is bathing the pet in a mixture of one quart 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, 1-cup baking soda and one teaspoon liquid soap. Allow this mixture to sit on your pet for about 10 minutes then rinse with tap water. Be careful not to get the solution in your dogs eyes.

There are also several commercial formulations specifically made to neutralize the odor of skunk spray, such as Skunk Off® and can generally be purchased either at your family veterinarian's office or a nearby pet store. These products may be the most effective of the ones listed.

A tent, a starry sky, a trout stream somewhere handy: A couple of days in the woods is the best antidote to office overload, and a camping trip only gets better when you add a dog to the mix.

Canine campers are about as enthusiastic a breed as you'll find: athletic enough for a fast morning run, intrepid enough for a strenuous hike - and loyal enough to sit quietly while you wait all afternoon for a fish to bite. They never complain.

Still, taking a dog into the wild calls for a little planning. In the first place, not all campgrounds are created equal: Some don't allow dogs, so check with the management of the one you've chosen before you head off. For starters, dogs are not allowed on national park or national monument trails. On-leash dogs are sometimes allowed in national forest campgrounds, but there are exceptions, so call ahead.

The best bet - especially in the West - may be roughing it on Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land.

Forget the crowds, rules and restrictions, this is primitive camping, wild wildlife - and, above all - privacy. For help finding a campground within the system, check with your nearest BLM office, where you'll find detailed maps of almost any area.

Preparation and Precaution

Before you leave home, make sure your dog has up-to-date vaccinations, especially for Lyme disease. Also, update your dog's license and - if you don't already have them - get some dog identification tags.

A small first-aid kit is essential, and you should pack the following, in case of emergencies: Neosporin or any antibiotic ointment helps treat wounds. Vetrap - elastic bandages that stick only to themselves, not to hair or skin, thus eliminating the need for pins, clips and adhesive tape - are ideal for holding dressings in place. Benadryl can be given to your dog in case of bee stings or fire-ant bites. Check with your veterinarian for the correct dosage. You can put it into peanut butter for a snack. Also bring along a snake bite kit; alcohol and peroxide.

Make sure to bring insect repellent and flea and tick control products: Mosquitoes bite right through short-haired breeds and ticks carry Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever and Ehrlichia. If your dog does get a tick, pull the tick off and douse the affected area with alcohol. Never stick a hot match on your dog to remove a tick. That's one ridiculous old remedy that doesn't work.

Food and Water

Always take plenty of clean drinking water for your dog - even if you figure there will be abundant water nearby and you're expecting cool weather. Your dog needs plenty of water, no matter what the temperature. While you're at it, bring along extra dog food (in case of emergency) and pack it all up into a bear-proof container.
Towels and Bedding

Bring your dog's bed to keep him from feeling homesick and take along extra towels that can double as blankets if the temperature drops. Or you can just throw a coat over your dog. He will effectively tent it, creating his own little warm house. If he starts to shiver or if temperatures drop into the 30s, bring him into the tent with you to prevent hypothermia. It will make both of you feel better; after all, dogs make great bed heaters.

Best Behavior

No matter how well behaved you think your dog is, he still must be restrained when there are other campers around. Some dogs aren't particularly friendly to humans they don't know, others attack their fellow canines on sight. The unfamiliarity of a new campsite can make even a passive dog bite or bark incessantly.

You may have to muzzle your dog to keep him quiet, and you should always keep him on a leash while in camp. You might also want to bring along a strong tether designed to go around a tree or tent stake. If you have more than one dog on a tether, make sure you tie them at different ends of the camp to prevent tangles.

Cleanup

Probably the best thing you can do to ensure future camping availability for your dog is to clean up after him. Bears leave it in the woods, but dogs shouldn't. So, be a sport, and pack it out.

Nobody knows why dogs seek out and roll in the foulest-smelling substances known to man, or why they insist on slow dancing with skunks. An effective antidote to an overpowering dog perfume can be formulated by mixing one quart of hydrogen peroxide, 1/4-cup baking soda, and 1 teaspoon of dish soap. Lather it on your dog and wash it off.