There are several things to consider when shopping for or buying a crate. You will need to consider what material you want the crate to be made from, the size, durability of the product (it is solid and "chew proof"), and you ability to clean it.

An ideal choice is a sturdy wire frame crate is easy to clean, durable and offers good ventilation and visibility.

Your home is your castle, sanctuary and safe place to retreat. You can offer your dog this same comfort by selecting the proper crate and demonstrating to your pet that it is his private space. Crate training is important, as there are a variety of situations in which kenneling your pet may become socially, medically, or even legally necessary. Consider it as part of his overall training.

Even if your pet lives primarily indoors, don't underestimate the usefulness of a crate. Your pet will travel safer in the car if he is confined. In the event of an accident, the kennel will provide some measure of protection and keep a scared dog from running away in an anxious moment. A kennel may also be medically necessary. At times, your veterinarian may recommend confinement so your pet's activity can be reduced or so that some condition may be monitored. Lastly, there may be social situations in which crating is necessary. You may have a friend or guest who is timid about dogs or a pet that is aggressive to strangers. A dog that can stay quietly in a kennel can make the situation easier.

Define Your Goals

When used properly, with well-defined objectives, a crate is an invaluable tool. Crates and kennels vary in size and function. Select the proper one for your pet's needs. Set your objectives. Before shopping for a crate, consider a few factors.

What is the kennel to be used for? If your dog will be kenneled in your home while you're gone, buy the largest crate your budget and space will allow. Your dog should be able to stand, lie down, or sit in any position in the crate without restriction. The crate should be roomy enough to accommodate a water bowl or have a water bottle attachment. If the surface your dog will lay on is wire, put a pillow or blanket in a corner for comfort. If your dog will need a kennel only for an occasional short trip, a plastic travel kennel is adequate.

Consider the size of your pet and think ahead. Buy a crate that will accommodate your dog at an adult size. If you buy a kennel that the right size for your puppy, it may only be useful in 6 months.

NEVER use the crate as punishment. Your dog should regard his crate as his haven. If you use the crate to isolate or punish your pet, he will come to associate his crate with unpleasant circumstances and feelings. Acclimate puppies early by offering food or treats in the crate, or by throwing favorite toys into the back of the crate for them to retrieve. Make the crate an everyday object, not something he sees only twice a year.

Types of Crates/Kennels

Wire Frame Crates

Wire frame crates are made from heavy gauge wire or stainless steel on all six sides. This increases ventilation and visibility for your pet. Many types of crate can be collapsed and folded up for storage or transport. The bottom of the crate can be solid or raised. Raised floors keep your dog elevated over a solid pan that will catch any food, water, or waste that would otherwise accumulate in your dog's living space.

This type of crate is especially useful for house training and protecting young puppies or dogs that may become destructive when left alone. These crates are designed with two access doors, one on the front and another hinged panel that comprises the top. This access to the top of the kennel is especially useful when containing a litter of puppies. You can open the top and pick up one puppy without the rest charging out the door. When selecting a crate of this type, consider the size of the wire, be sure your dogs paws won't fall through the bottom grid. Check for any sharp edges. Check the front door to see if it is spring loaded, these doors can snap shut on a paw or tail.

Solid Frame Crate

These kennels are constructed from plastic, fiberglass or Plexiglas and are most commonly used for your dog's travel needs. They are sturdy and have solid bottoms. Usually only the sides are slotted for ventilation. Most of these crates have separate tops and bottoms that are assembled and secured with nuts and screws. The front of the kennel frame supports a wire door. They are easy to take apart for cleaning and storage. This type of kennel is a good choice for transporting your pet to the veterinarian and is the standard for air travel. This type of crate also provides a greater degree of protection for your pet if something should fall on the kennel or if there is any impact. Since this kennel has fewer ventilation slats, the interior of the kennel is darker and may be a more desirable environment for quieting an anxious pet.

Soft-sided Kennels

A variation to the solid plastic kennel is the soft side kennel. These pet taxis are reminiscent of gym bags; all the sides are made from breathable fabric material and are ventilated with nylon netting. These types of carriers should be restricted to use with small dogs of 10 pounds or less. They are comfortable but their disadvantage is that they offer no protection against impact and can be penetrated by sharp objects. They also get wet and can take a long time to dry. These carriers should be used for short local trips only.

Exercise Pens

Exercise pens are a variation of the wire frame crate. An exercise pen is like a folded fence. It has no top or bottom but joins end to end to form a confined space. Exercise pens are best for dogs that already have an understanding of confinement. They are not sturdy enough to hold up against a dog that will climb, dig or charge at it. They are an excellent choice for keeping puppies in a small area in the house or yard. These types of pens are common at dog shows and fun matches for their ease of portability and set up.

Still have reservations about crating your pet? You shouldn't. Crate trained dogs are often happier when they are in a small enclosed space, and if you don't provide one they will often seek one out anyway, perhaps nesting under a table. Confining your dog to one room may not be adequate protection for your property. Never underestimate the damage a teething puppy can do while your back's turned. If your pet is crated, you can leave the house with peace of mind that your pet and your home are both secure. Remove collars and tags before leaving your pet in the kennel. If your dog is a model citizen and has outgrown the need for a kennel, your local animal shelter or humane organization will gladly accept the donation. But many well-behaved grown-up dogs still appreciate the shelter a crate provides even if the door is never closed, so don't short-change them.

You're standing in the pet store and there they are: row after row of crates, just big enough for a dog. They're made of fiberglass or plastic or just plain open wire. For all their differences, they evoke just one thought: Jail.

Not so fast. Despite their appearance, crates can be a boon for a puppy - a home-away-from-home or a comfortable retreat for when the rest of the family gets to be too much. Also, crates are great tools for house training because dogs don't like to soil their immediate environment. In addition, for car travel, inside a crate is probably the safest place for a puppy to ride, and, for pups that have to fly cargo, crates provide a touch of the familiar on the plane.

Making Pups Comfortable With the Crate

First, make sure you don't isolate your pup when he's in his crate. Buy two crates, and put one in your bedroom - so he can sleep beside you at night - and the other in a busier part of the house for daytime use. Line the crate with a soft blanket, put in some small treats, and then show the puppy how to get in.

Once your puppy has figured out how to go in and out of his crate, and has satisfied his curiosity about it, use a cue word - such as "kennel," as he moves toward the crate, and hand him a treat as soon as he enters. Repeat this several times at random intervals until he goes in when he's told to.

At this point, you can shut the door for short periods, without making a big fuss about it. In fact, it's best to ignore your pup while opening or shutting the door.

Once your puppy is willing to rest in the crate, start confining him for varying periods of time, and at different times of the day, while you're at home. The more random and persistent you are, the less the dog will worry when you do have to leave the house. With this kind of routine, your puppy will learn to rest while crated, and that's exactly the way you want him to feel - at home, relaxed and comfortable in his own little den.

Learning to Love the Lockup

Occasionally you may want your pup to be in his crate when he wants to be out. Don't try to fool him, by calling him to you and then forcing him into the crate. Instead, use a command like: "Go to your crate," and lure him in with a little food. Hand over the treat as soon as he settles down inside the crate, and praise him and keep feeding him while he's inside. The minute he ventures out, turn off the food supply - and the charm.

Put a few pieces of kibble in the crate so the pup will develop the habit of going into the crate by himself, earning more praise and even more treats. Sooner or later, he'll learn that he gets lots of attention, affection and goodies inside the crate - and very little in the way of treats outside the crate.

By the way, never put your pup in his crate for misbehavior "time-outs"/punishment. Using a crate in this way will render it aversive and therefore less useful as a behavioral management tool.

The Crate and House-training

To confine an untrained dog for a long time is to court disaster. If the pup is forced to soil in his crate, the crate will no longer inhibit his elimination there and will be of no help when you wish to employ it for house training.

Basically, house-training a dog is solving a spatial problem: You want to teach the dog to eliminate only in one place - outdoors. During the training period, it's up to you to set limits. For example, if you don't allow your pup free access to the living room and bedrooms, he can't make a mess on the carpets there.

Because most puppies can't control their urine and feces for extended periods, the most important part of any house-training program is setting up and sticking with a schedule that your puppy can maintain. Feed him at consistent times of the day and watch his natural schedule: Puppies usually need to eliminate shortly after waking up, after eating, and after playing. Young puppies may need to urinate every four hours.

When your pup eliminates in a designated area, praise and reward him immediately and play with him. People usually reward their pup for urinating outside only after they have brought him back indoors: This is a mistake because it rewards the pup for coming inside, not for eliminating outside. Instead, keep a few treats in your pocket and hand them out on the spot.

If your pup repeatedly messes inside his crate, take him to your vet to rule out medical problems, such as intestinal parasites and urinary-tract diseases.

If you need to be away from home for a few hours, hire a dog walker to take the puppy out, or enclose your pup in a large pen to provide him with an opportunity to eliminate away from his resting spot. Leave newspaper or training pads down in one area when you are gone - but pick them up once when you're home.

Punishment after the fact doesn't work. If an "accident" happens, clean it up with a good enzymatic cleaner and blame yourself: You're the one who wasn't supervising the pup at the time the "accident" occurred. If you catch your dog in the act of eliminating indoors, make a loud noise to distract him, and then take him outside right away.

Dogs with separation anxiety will often urinate, defecate, or bark when confined. In fact, some dogs become so anxious when confined that they destroy their crates and hurt themselves in the process. These dogs may do better when confined in a larger area, but if the problem still persists, see your vet or check with a veterinary behaviorist.

The following is a list of words that are crucial to training your dog:

What you request in the "Sit, Stay" is clear and comprehensible to the dog. Therefore, in the initial teaching of the command, he can absorb the concepts of both words. He will, for example, try to move from the spot. When you return him to it, he gets the "Stay" part. Now he'll lie down, figuring if he's going to be stuck in the spot, he might as well get comfortable. When he is returned to the "Sit" position by you (gently and with patience), he learns the exact definition of the word "Sit."

Your dog therefore learns two vocabulary words that stand for two separate concepts. In addition, he learns how to learn. You will readily see the difference in the intelligent look on his face. Furthermore, the "Stay" command, once added to your dog's vocabulary, not only covers a multitude of situations, but it is the beginning of teaching your dog long sentences and important concepts. It is a great aid in keeping the dog from harm.

Many dogs who are raised in an ideal country setting, who are fed well, who are groomed and loved and cared for, get weird when they are outside their house. A well-balanced dog must be able to leave his own turf and be able to feel comfortable wherever he goes. Therefore, he should learn to "Heel" so that you can take him places neatly, easily, and frequently.

It's the middle of the week and you're in a real slump. The week has been a disaster and it's only Wednesday. You still have three more days to make it to the weekend. So how do you get through hump day? Let your favorite canine help brighten your day. There is nothing like a big doggie grin to make the world look like a much better place.

This time of year is a wonderful time to spend outdoors with your dog. Here's your chance to reclaim the outdoors. Get your dog and go out to your yard or the park for some fun. To help you along, we've compiled some activities and tips on how to make them more enjoyable.

Ask dog trainer Gail Fisher what benefits a dog gets by playing, and the answer is direct and simple: "What benefits don't they get?" Fisher, who has been in the business for the past 30 years, has taught animal behavior at the University of New Hampshire and in 1993 opened All Dogs Gym, an activity retreat for pooches in Manchester.

"Playing for dogs is no different than playing for humans," she says. "It's a good mental break, good physical activity, a good stress reliever. Physically, mentally, and emotionally, it's healthy."

Whether chasing a ball in the yard or using canine treadmills, exercise or play is vital in helping dogs expend pent-up energy. Without that outlet they may show behavioral problems that can range from destructive tendencies to attention-seeking antics. Just as surely as a couch potato would benefit from a trot around the block, a dog prone to chewing the couch or digging up a garden will find a much-needed release valve in play and exercise. Often, such physical activities form an important part of resolving behavioral issues.

"Play is a phenomenal outlet for the dogs' natural behaviors," Fisher says. "Dogs very often don't get an opportunity to express what comes naturally to them."

15 Minutes of Fun

Lack of playtime opportunities can be a common problem for dogs that are part of a family in which both "parents" work. Yet, as Fisher explains, helping your dog to get exercise through play does not always mean time-consuming walks or a canine Olympic workout: Any level or manner of activity serves a positive purpose.

For the average dog owner, Fisher recommends retrieving as a good game, especially if it involves rewards for the dog. Retrieving is not a terribly time-consuming pursuit - few dogs last more than 15 minutes strenuously chasing a tennis ball or Frisbee.

Don't Get Too Physical

While it would be nice if a healthy dog could run 5 miles with his owner, Fisher says, it is not necessary that the animal's play be interactive with either the owner or other dogs. Indeed, there are potential downsides to interactive play involving two dogs, or even one owner and a pent-up pet.

"Playing with other dogs can be pretty rough. When we play with the dog the way a dog plays with another dog, it very often gets us in trouble," Fisher says. "Dogs like to wrestle and use their mouths. When they are playing with another dog and use their mouths, this mouthing doesn't appear to hurt the other dog but it sure hurts us. I don't recommend that owners wrestle with their dogs for this reason."

For interactive play with a pumped-up pet, it's important to set strict ground rules. "I particularly like tug-of-war as a game, but it has to have very specific rules because it can be dangerous," Fisher says. After all, it should come as no surprise when a dog new to the game gets so excited about winning that his owner becomes part of the contest - resulting in a wrestling match to the bitter end. If you stick to retrieving, though, there is less potential for the game to get out of hand.

Owners who want their pet's play to be more than mere energy burning can help their dog develop coordination and "body awareness" through agility classes. "It's an activity that most dogs love," says Fisher. Agility training is centers around an obstacle course for dogs. It is patterned after show jumping for horses, and involves the dog navigating the correct path through a series of barriers and tests. "Dog agility is becoming very popular - maybe the most popular pursuit ever," Fisher says. Most agility classes require a commitment of several weeks.
For all the obvious physical and emotional benefits of play for a dog, is there then such a thing as bad play? Maybe, Fisher says. "Play by definition isn't bad but it can go over the top and become bad." The trainer knows what she's talking about: Every day her daycare program sees up to 70 dogs playing together, a spectacle that she confesses amounts to a crash course in crisis management.

Start With a Good Diet

All physical activity prescribed for dogs is based on the assumption that the dog is healthy. The ability to indulge in strenuous play begins with the dog's diet, Fisher says: "In my experience, there are dog foods that will contribute to hyperactivity and, conversely, lethargy. The better the dog's diet, the healthier the dog will be."

It is important to note that in the world of canine play, size isn't everything. Just because a particular breed of dog is larger than most does not mean he requires more exercise or play time. Newfoundlands are one of the larger breeds, but they are actually likely to need less physical indulgence than smaller breeds, like the frenetic Parson Russell terrier.

Experts also recommend establishing a regular time for play - as one might arrange play dates for a child. This will help you set a routine that the animal will come to expect. Just don't be surprised if your playful pet resents it if you skip a session - and takes it out on your couch.

If your pet is showing any signs of distress or you suspect your pet is seriously ill, CONTACT YOUR VETERINARIAN immediately.

Preparing for and Emergency

 

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• Gauze bandages and pads (you should have both pads and at least one roll of gauze)
• Antibiotic ointment
• A muzzle or strip of cloth to prevent biting
• Antiseptic swabs
• A rectal thermometer
• Petroleum jelly (lubricant for thermometer)
• A disposable ice pack (or two)
• A plastic eye dropper (or syringe with needle removed)
• Blunt tipped scissors
• Tweezers
• Antihistamine gel caps (gel caps in blister packs can be poked easily and squirted into pets' mouths)
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Vinegar and baking soda (for neutralizing burns caused by acids)
• Activated charcoal (for absorbing poisons)
• Small flashlight or penlight
• Q-tips
• Extra leash and collar
• Plastic bags

A cheap fishing tackle box makes a great pet first-aid kit.  Everything fits neatly in its compartments, and the bottom is usually large enough to hold larger items.

• 2 cups whole-wheat flour
• 1 tbsp. baking powder
• 1 cup peanut butter (chunky or smooth)
• 1 cup milk

Directions:

• 2 cups carrots -- boiled and pureed
• 2 eggs
• 2 tablespoons garlic -- minced
• 2 cups unbleached flour -- *see Note
• 1 cup rolled oats1/4 cup wheat germ 

Note *you can also use rice flour or rye flour.

Directions: