Shampoo is the most frequently used hair product. Water and detergent make up almost all of a conventional shampoo's formulation, featured at the beginning of ingredients labels, with moisturizing emollients and plant extracts often adding up to no more than 1 percent.

 

But let's not be deceived by the word "organic" on the label. The amount of organic aloe vera extract in a shampoo may be very minuscule - sometimes less than 1 percent!

 

What truly matters for the health of our hair is the bulk of the shampoo, namely, the quality of the detergent and the amount of emollients. Both have to be of plant origin, derived without the use of toxic chemical processes.
 
Many mainstream herbal shampoos brazenly claim to be natural and organic, most contain tiny amounts of beneficial botanical ingredients, with the bulk of the product consisting of harsh detergents, preservatives, and petroleum-derived silicones.
 
The quality of a detergent - that foam-producing ingredient that dissolves oil and grime - is the most important thing to consider when choosing a shampoo. Most often you will find sodium lauryl sulfate and its milder brother, sodium laureth sulfate, on the label.
 
Also, steer clear of cocoamide diethanolamine (DEA) and ammonium laureth sulfate, which often make up to one-third of an average shampoo bottle.

 

 

ORGANIC SHAMPOOS

 

Buying products in a health food store doesn't always help, because most otherwise green and ethical brands still use detergents from the sulfate family as well as ammonium laureth suldate or cocoamide DEA/MEA. Sometimes keen marketers add a clause "derived from coconut" following the dubious ingredient, but the fact that sodium laureth sulfate has coconut as its distant relative doesn't make this detergent any safer.
 
There aren't many green cleansing agents available.
One of the greenest, lauryl glucoside, is a soapy blend of coconut oil, corn starch, and sugar, but it isn't used frequently because of its higher price.
 
Humectants and emollients in shampoos are nice additions, but they make little difference because they are washed off so quickly. Still, vegetable glycerin, aloe extract, jojoba oil, honey, and lecithin make shampoo more nourishing as they fill in the pores of a hair shaft and keep the hair surface smooth. They also soothe and moisturize the scalp.
 
Since human hair is made of dead protein, it's impossible to infuse it with proteins - but milk, wheat, soy, rice, and oat extracts do make hair softener and more resilient. Some plants, such as calendula, yarrow, and burdock, work as mild astringents and can soothe scalp irritation, while citrus oils, apple cider vinegar, and rosemary seal the hair cuticle and help create a brilliant shine.

 

Many organic brands offer concentrated shampoos with little added water. This is economical, since you only need a drop of shampoo to make a nice lather, and this also eliminates the need of strong preservatives. Grapefruit seed oil, vitamins A, C, and E, benzoin extract, and wheat germ act as natural preservatives in these shampoos.

 

"Women use way too much shampoo," notes John Masters, the pioneer of professional organic hair care and colors. "Besides, they use too much pressure when they wash their hair. Daily shampooing is not essential. You have to learn to be gentle to your hair."

GREEN PRODUCT GUIDE: SHAMPOOS
 
Look for the following all-natural shampoos that keep their formulations true to their green claims. Burt's Bees More Moisture Raspberry & Brazil Nut Shampoo; Kiss My Face Whenever Shampoo; John Masters Organics Zinc & Sage Shampoo with Conditioner; Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo.
 
Remember all those magic shampoos that promised to instantly revitalize your hair? Let me remind you once again: your hair is made of dead keratin molecules and cannot be revived from the outside. You cannot feed it or improve its structure by applying minerals or vitamins or chemicals on its surface. All you can do is to temporarily smooth and stiffen the hair shaft so it looks shiny and more manageable. By coating hair follicles in silicones, plant oils, or waxes, you can make brushing and styling easier, too.

 

 

CONDITIONERS 

 

There are several types of conditioners available today. The most popular type is a rinse-off conditioner, which is applied after the shampoo, left on to penetrate a minute or two, and then rinsed off.

 

There are also leave-in conditioners that you apply before brushing your wet hair and you don't rinse out. Finally, there are deep rinse-off conditioners that you apply once a week or whenever you feel your hair needs a quick fix of nutrients or a boost in shine.
 
Oily hair benefits most from rinse-off conditioners; dry hair needs a weekly deep hot oil treatment in addition to a moisturizing conditioner used after every wash. Colored, permed, or sun-bleached hair benefits from leave-on conditioners with essential oils, amino acids, and plant proteins.
By all means avoid propylene glycol, cetrimonium chloride, mineral oil, petroleum-derived silicones, and hydrolyzed animal protein, found in practically all conventional conditioners.
 
"Any of my conditioners can be recreated at home," says John Masters, who started blending his own shampoos and conditioners from his kitchen to use on clients in his home salon back in the 1980s.

 

"Olive and jojoba oil make ultimate hair conditioners. Always use organic extra virgin olive oil on your hair for deep conditioning and massage. It can solve so many problems!"
Another praised natural hair conditioner is avocado, rich in omega-3 oils and proteins, which you can mash and put directly on your hair. "Essential oils of lavender, rosemary, cedarwood, ylang-ylang, palmarosa, and geranium are all beneficial for the hair," adds Masters.
As so many woman are coloring their hair at home or in salons, let's take a look at coloring health risks.
 
Resource For This Article: The Green Beauty Guide, Author, Julie Gabriel