Month Year Vol 1, Issue 1
Logo with shadow
  Everything    
 Roses Monthly 
Greetings!
 
Snow March 28, 2009
"Is it too late to prune my roses?"
No, I don't think so.
As I write the newsletter this month the snow has been falling for 6 hours and is now several inches deep.  I have auxiliary heat on in the greenhouse to keep the snow melted off the roof.  It is kind of neat to stand in the greenhouse with 2000+ rose bushes, some in bloom, the temperature in the 70's, and watch it snow some of the biggest flakes I have ever seen.  Folks it just ain't over yet!
This month I will chronicle the building of a rose trellis.  Lyuba Teakel and I built this particular trellis a few weeks back and I thought some of you may want to get some ideas from what we did.
Later this month I know many of you will be planting rose bushes so "Planting Potted Roses" will be of interest to you. I hope you enjoy the newsletter as much as I enjoy writing it.  Please don't forget we are not just here at Roses inc. Tulsa to sell you rose bushes but rather we are here to give you help by answering your roses gardening questions and helping you be successful growing the Queen of Flowers.
We are looking forward to seeing you soon!
Mark
Article Headline
 
The problem with most trellis is that they are not large enough or strong enough to hold roses.  Rose bushes can be very heavy and some varieties can get up to 20+ feet long so a trellis must be formidable enough to handle the task.  The trellis pictured above is such a trellis and is not difficult to build. The materials list for this structure which is 16" on the long side by 4' on the short side and 7' tall is as follows: 
4- 4"X 4"X 8'  treated post
3- 80 lb Bags of Quickcrete cement mix
9- 2"X 2"X8' treated boards
3- 4' X 8' vinyl lattice (brown, green or white)
18- 2" "L" brackets
200- 1"  #8 wood screws
The tools needed are:
An electric drill with a screw driver or nut driver depending on the type of screws used.  (We used hex head screw for better control and to eliminate the need for washers).
1- 1/16" high speed drill bit
1- Concrete mixing tub
1- hoe
1- shovel
1- fence post digger "jobbers"
1- Soil tamping device ( Left over 2"X 2" lumber works).
1- saw (We used a electric circular saw).
1- 5 gal. bucket
1- water hose with spray head
1- tape measure
1- level (A post setting level is a nice time saver but not a necessity).
1- pencil
 
Dig each of your holes so that the post centers will be 8' apart.  The holes should not be dug with a shovel but rather with the jobbers or an auger.  The holes will still have room in them to adjust the poles a couple of inches in either direction. 
If your ground is level you can just measure the depth of the hole to be 1 foot deep. Place the 4" X 4" X 8' post in the hole and put 3 inches of soil into the hole and tamp it tight around the post while using the pole set level to make the pole perfectly straight.  You should now repeat these steps with each post.  Be sure to keep the centers of the post at 8' apart.
Next mix one sack of the Quickcrete with water to a consistency that is just pourable. Add water slowly as you mix so you do not add too much water and make the mix to wet.  The mix should pour in globs from the shovel.   After the Quickcrete is poured in the holes you should allow the post to set overnight for the concrete to set.
Now that the post are solid in the ground it is time to place the supports between the post.  You must first measure between the post so you can cut each support at the correct length.  If your post are perfectly straight all supports will be the same length.  If some of the supports need to be plus or minus an inch or so it is not a big deal. Use your saw and cut the 2" x2" x8' boards to the measured length.
Now you can connect the "L" brackets to the ends of the post in the fashion pictured at the right.
Once you have attached all of the "L" brackets it is time to attach them to the post.  Attach the first to the top of the post as pictured at the right.  Measure down 2' and attach the second supports.  When that is complete measure down 1' 10" from the second support and place the third support.   You have completed the frame work for your trellis.
Next you will attach the 4' X 8' vinyl lattice to the frame.  Use your 1/16" drill to make a hole in the lattice on each corner.  Put the lattice in place with the top of the lattice even with the top of the top support attaching it with 4 1" screws.  Repeat this process with each section.  The lattice will hand down about 2 inches past the bottom horizontal support. After all sections are in place you should add additional screws at 1' interval around the entire lattice as well as the center brace.  Be sure to drill a hole through the vinyl lattice before placing the screw to prevent the vinyl from splitting.  Your Rose trellis is complete!
Our trellis was 20' long but you may adjust yours to any length you wish.  Just have the employees at the home store to cut the vinyl to the proper length for your project.  They have a ply wood saw that make quick accurate cuts and most will make the first couple of cuts for free.   Good luck and feel free to call me for more information about building a rose trellis.
In This Issue
Building a rose trellis
Planting a potted Rose bush
Spray mix for black spot control
Join Our Mailing List!
post leveling 
post set in concrete

 frame
 
cutting support
 
l connector
 
l brace
 
cross frame
 
end frame
 
lattis attached
 
finished
 
 
Planting Potted Roses
Lyuba Planting 
Prepare soil in planting area. 
Add Back to Nature Rose Bed Amendment, sphagnum peat moss, and pelletized gypsum as needed.  Caution:  Do not use Back to Nature Rose bed Amendment for more than 1/3 of your fill or garden mix.
Confirm pH 6.0 to 6.5.
Dig a hole 50% larger than the root ball.  The hole should be deep enough that the rose, when placed, will have its bud union right at ground level.  
If soil is heavy and compacted see Item 1.
Leave a few inches of loose soil in the bottom of the hole. No cone shaped mound in the bottom of the planting hole is necessary for potted roses.
Remove the plant from the pot. This can be done by kneading around the pot, turning the top of the pot on a downward angle and pulling on the rose at the stem just above the ground level in the pot and slipping the rose bush from the container.  Do this over the hole so any loose soil will fall in the hole.  It is important to never let the roots dry during the planting process.
Place the plant in the hole and adjust the soil in the hole so that the bud union of the plant is at ground level.
Back fill the hole half full of soil.  DO NOT tamp the soil.  Tamping will break any new feeder roots that are present.
Fill a five gallon bucket with water. Less water will be necessary for plants in containers smaller than #3. Mix Fertilome Root Stimulator in with the water using the label directions.  The B1 in the Fertilome root stimulator aides in the prevention of transplant shock. Pour two and one half gallons of the mixture in the hole half full of soil.
Finish filling the hole with soil and using the remainder of the water soaking the dirt around the rose.
Note- A hose is not sufficient because a large volume of water is necessary to remove air pockets from the dirt.  Five gallons of water should be used on each rose in a #3 container or larger with no consideration given to the moisture level of the earth.
Mound the remaining soil around the rose bushes base.  It will settle over time.
Make sure the rose gets 1" of rain or 5 gallons of water once a week for the next 3 weeks with the same mixture of water and Fertilome root stimulator, do not fertilize the plant for at least 3 weeks.
 
Dos and Don'ts of Planting
Do- Check the rose to assure the ground stays moist-not wet-every three days for six weeks.
Do- Remove any dead or damaged canes from the plant.
Do- Use Fertilome root stimulator with vitamin B1 in your planting water.
Do- Begin your three week spray cycle.  (See spray schedule for more information.)
Do- Always water roses at the base of the plant.
Do- Mulch the rose with 3 to 4 inches of shredded pine bark mulch at least 18 inch around the bush.  Cocoa mulch cane be used or added to the pine mulch for great results.
Don't- Add fertilizer to the planting hole or fertilize the rose for at least three weeks after planting.
Don't- Trim the roots of the plant except for broken or damaged roots.
Don't- Plant rose within three feet of any other plant or in an area that does not get at least six hours of sun each day throughout the year.
Don't- Plant where sprinkler systems water the leaves or set sprinkler system to water an inch once a week beginning at sunrise. 
Don't- Plant roses in wet areas where the roots will drown.
 
      At Roses inc. Tulsa we prune your roses and prepare them for planting before they leave our nursery so no further pruning is necessary at the time of planting.  We are always available to answer your questions should you have any.   
Roses inc. Tulsa mix for black spot free Roses
 
Lon Latham's blackspot free garden 
Lon Latham roses One gallon Mix                                                                                       -2 Tablespoons of Fertilome Systemic Fungicide
1.5 Tablespoon of Hi-Yield Maneb
In Cool Weather lTeaspoon OR In Warm Weather.5 Teaspoon of
Monterey's- Nature's Own Spray Helper
 
One quart Mix
-1.5 teaspoons of Fertilome Systemic Fungicide
-1.5 teaspoon of Hi-Yield Maneb
-ll4 teaspoon of Monterey Nature's Own Spray Helper
Directions:
Mix all three products together with water and spray every 14 to 21 days.  If insects become a problem you may mix Malathion, acephate, or other insecticide per label instructions with the above mix.
 
Product of the Month  SUN STICKS
sunstick 
 I really think that SUN STICKS are a great idea for planning a garden.  You apply a SUN STICK patch to the center of the flower and put the flower in the ground at the location where you want to measure how much sun that location gets. Place the SUN STICK first thing in the morning.  That evening you may retrieve the sun stick and use the enclosed color chart to verify how many hours of sun that location got for that day.  Roses will grow in partial shade but they will never thrive.  SUN STICK takes the guessing out of planing a rose garden that will thrive.
Fairy roseRose of the Month
 
The Fairy 
Hundreds of seashell pink blooms appear on a virtually foolproof shrub.  Pyramidal clusters of blooms are carried on medium-low spreading bushes with glossy, disease-proof leaves.  Great ground cover/shrub qualities give The Fairy a special magic. 
Height  2-3 Feet
Spread  4-5 Feet
 
This is an ideal rose to plant in areas too steep to mow or cascading off of a wall.  Once mature it is so thick that grass will not grow under it. 
 
 
I hope you have enjoyed this issue of Roses inc. Monthly.  We will start to sell potted roses in bud/bloom on April 15 and hope you will come and see us.  As always, please do not hesitate to call me with your questions about growing roses.  I am here to help your rose garden the best it can be. 
 
Sincerely,
Mark
 
Mark Stelljes
Roses inc Tulsa.
13201 S 129 E Ave
Broken Arrow Ok. 74011
918-455-7673
 
Save 20%
This coupon is good toward  the purchase of The Fairy Rose.  Up to 5 per customer.
Offer Expires: May 15, 2009