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Sara Stein
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Gardeners are certainly aware of the march of seasons. Sequential
blooming is the basis of flower border design; fruits are harvested in
order, currants before blueberries, then blackberries, then grapes. But
we decide what to plant from our own point of view. A book may advise
against a certain shrub because, although the berries are decorative,
the display is too quickly eaten by the birds. Or a gardener may decide
not to bother with August-blooming flowers because the family is off to
the beach that month and would not appreciate the display. Such
balloons need popping; flowers don't bloom or bushes berry for our
admiration.
...
If there are gaps in the sequence of food supply, are there no
losses of pollinators and seed dispersers? And if the ranks of these
crucial servants are thinned in the summer, what becomes of the plants
that bloom or berry in the fall?
Noah's Garden
pp. 53, 55
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Greetings!
Questions? If you have any questions about habitat gardening (and even the most experienced habitat gardeners do), don't miss our November meeting. Our annual Roundtable is a relaxing way to round out your Thanksgiving weekend.
A number of experienced habitat gardeners will be on hand to answer your questions and to provide tips, but we also can learn from beginners. Everyone is welcome to chime in with their own experiences.
And a new feature of our Roundtable this year: Feel free to bring a few of your favorite habitat gardening books or other resources you've found to be informational and/or inspirational. We'd love to hear about them.
Finally, this more informal meeting is a great opportunity to get to know each other better! Our meetings are free and open to the public. Come and bring a friend.
WHEN: Sunday November 29 at 2:00 pm
WHERE: The Special Activity Room of the Le Moyne College Library (Directions...)
Janet Allen,
President, Habitat Gardening in Central New York
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Monarchs in space
 Everyone knows that monarchs fly - sometimes pretty high up there and pretty far - all the way to Mexico. But flying in space? Yes!
A few days ago on November 16, three intrepid monarch caterpillars blasted into space on the space shuttle Atlantis. (This photo was taken on Atlantis on Nov 18.)
They're part of an experiment that hopes to answer the following questions about monarchs transforming into butterflies in a low-gravity environment:
- Can the caterpillars cling to the surface of their space habitat or might they float?
- Can they find a suitable place to make a chrysalis?
- Will they be able to split their skin when they make the chrysalis?
- Can they hook into the silk pad that supports the chrysalis?
- Can they emerge as adult butterflies and correctly expand their wings?
Scientists, with the help of their elementary and middle school student partners, will compare the development of the "astro-cats" with those being raised in classrooms.
For more photos and to keep up with their ongoing development, go to the Monarchs in Space website. |
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A good plant for winter cover
 Eastern arborvitae, also called Northern white-cedar, (Thuja occidentalis) is a Northeastern native tree. (By the way, here's how "arborvitae" is pronounced.)
You're probably familiar with arborvitae since it's commonly used in landscapes. Here's a good description of the plant and its cultivars from the University of Connecticut. Cultivars are usually planted, but their congested branches often get caked with heavy snow and sometimes break. Wild trees don't have that problem since they're more sparsely branched.
Besides its use in landscapes, we use the tree's aromatic wood for cedar chests, fences, and shingles. And Henry David Thoreau wrote that native Americans in Maine used its bark for cordage, its boughs for mattresses, in addition to its wood for roofing shingles, along with many lesser uses.
In our habitat gardens, though, an important function of this easy-to-grow plant is to provide birds with good protection from predators and from severe weather.
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Roost boxes: More cover for birds
 Finding a warm place to stay during cold winter nights can make the difference between surviving or freezing to death for birds. Providing lots of natural cover can help--including snags with nice, cozy cavities--and so can leaving nest boxes out. But roost boxes are another alternative, which can be appealing to cavity-nesting species. (Note: There are different kinds of roost boxes and not much research indicating which are best, but the following describes one common type.)
What's a roost box?At first glance, you might think it's just a nest box, but there are some key differences. First, the entry hole is generally at the bottom, not the top. Second, there are usually staggered perches inside. Third, they're usually larger than a nest box, and sometimes the entry hole is larger than that of a nest box. Fourth, there are fewer ventilation holes. (Both nest boxes and roost boxes should be designed for easy cleaning, though--usually with a hinged side or top.) These differences make sense when you think of its purpose: to keep birds warm. Having fewer ventilation holes and having the entry hole at the bottom keeps the warmth inside the roost box. They're larger since they're designed to accommodate a lot of birds, not just a nesting pair (although some species roost alone). The perches give them a place to sit in the box, and they're staggered so they don't get pooped on by the bird above them! Some suggest adding a layer of aluminum foil or a 1/2" piece of
styrofoam on the bottom. Whether or not you add these, you can add a
layer of dried grass or cedar chips on the floor for added insulation. Where to get them?They're available commercially, but maybe not at big-box stores. (Check out our sponsors, and you're likely to find them!) You can try modifying your nest boxes by filling in some of the ventilation holes--important in the hot summer sun, but a heat loser in the winter. Don't seal every little hole, though, since birds sometimes want to peek inside to check for predators before entering and may not enter a pitch-dark cavity. If you use duct tape or caulking, install on the outside of the box, not the inside. If you're handy and want a project, you can also build one. Here are some plans: Suite101.com Here are some things to think about when mounting roost boxes. Birds feel more comfortable higher up - generally 10 feet high. People use telescoping poles so they can bring them down to clean out in the spring. They need to be in a location that's likely to be warm. Face them away from prevailing winds and toward the south. Since some species like to roost in a group, there can be a number of birds in one place. Protect them from predators by using a baffle so your roost box doesn't become an "all you can eat" buffet. Some more reading on roost boxesNational Wildlife Federation - Providing Birds With Cozy Winter RoostsAudubon-Omaha - Discussion of bluebird roost boxesSialis - RoostingA UK site - Pictures taken by a camera in the roost boxShare your experiencesCome spring, share your successes or failures with your versions of roost boxes (email address at the bottom). You can look for evidence of feathers when you clean it out in the spring, or you can see for yourself if birds are using them. You'll need to check around sundown or right after sunrise if you want to see them entering or leaving. Your experiences can contribute to our knowledge of how birds use roost boxes.
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Water in winter
Birds can get water from snow or icicles, but if you're planning to provide water, here are a few things to consider.
Just as in summer, it's important to clean the birdbath and change the water a few times a week. Even without the danger of mosquitoes, clean water is important!
Placing a network of sticks over the surface of birdbath will provide convenient perches and discourage them from bathing on a freezing cold day. Place the bath near trees or shrubs so they can easily escape if they see a predator, but not so close that they don't have time to see a predator coming - about 8 -10 feet should do it. And, of course, NEVER add antifreeze to the water! Read more from Cornell about winter birdbaths (near the bottom of the page) ... |
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You can still be a FeederWatcher
Even though the Project FeederWatch season has started, it's not too late to join in! If you are wondering about how it works, Cornell's Lab of Ornithology has created a nice video that explains the whole process.
Their website also has a "Tricky Bird IDs" section to help you figure out the downy/hairy woodpeckers, the sharp-shinned/Cooper's hawks, and others.
Finally, they have printable tally sheets available. (I've developed my own version with the birds I'm most likely to see. Here's my Word doc template.)
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