|
|
Pennypack Pickings
|
July 29, 2012
Volume 10, Issue 20
|
|
Cut Flower Update
| |
From Farmer Jenn: our cut flower specialist
As the harsh high temps and dry spells of summer set in, it has been sad to see the Agrostemma githago (the variety 'Ocean Pearls' was located at the front of a bed and had greenish/ silvery foliage and white flowers) and Calendula officinalis (shorter plant with yellow/ bronze flowers) fade so quickly. This does however make now a prime time to collect the seeds from those blooms that have passed their glory days. Preserving seed is one of my favorite garden activities and I think it adds another sustainable, self sufficient component to a small farm or garden.
The blooms that were left on the plant have been pollinated; successfully fertilized and new seeds that
look exactly like the ones we started with several months ago are ready to be gathered.
Feel free to clip an old stem and peel apart the brown remnants of the flower to find these little treasures... it should be a fun activity for kids too!
|
Okra in the Greek Style
|
This recipe is courtesy of the Mamolou family, members of the farm. Ingredients:1 1/2 lbs okra Salt to taste, about 1 teaspoon Pepper to taste 1/2 cup vinegar 1 cup olive oil 2 onions, sliced thin 16 oz cooked tomato (one can or homemade) 2 tablespoons parsley Methods: Prepare 1 1/2 pounds of okra by removing the stems. Do not cut into the ribbed part of the pod. The gummy quality of okra will be released if the ribs are cut. Place the whole okra in one layer in a flat dish. Sprinkle okra with vinegar and salt and let stand 1/2 hour. Heat olive oil in a wide frying pan and saute onions until golden brown. Add tomatoes, parsley, salt and pepper to taste and simmer until tomatoes are soft. Rinse okra and drain. Place side by side in the tomato sauce. Invert a heatproof plate on the okra and press down. Add just a little water to cover the rim of the plate. Cover and simmer until tender (about 1/2 hour). Serve with feta and Greek bread.
|
|
Wasps: The Farm's Best Friends
When most of us think of wasps, it does not conjure up the same warm fuzziness as does the family pooch or kitty. Rather, it is more likely that our relationship with wasps consists of spraying them with a can of toxic chemicals so they will not be around to sting us and our families.
So you may be surprised to learn that wasps are among the farm's most beneficial insects. Most wasps feed on other insects in some part of their life cycle, often the more vulnerable, soft bodied type such as the caterpillars and aphids that plague our vegetables.
There are a number of different types of wasps at the farm, so lets start with the most familiar. Paper wasps of the Polistes genus are the ones that build paper nests with open celled bottoms on sheds, garages, outbuildings and so on. We have two of these species at the farm: one is striped like a yellowjacket and the other is black with rust colored bands. These are voracious predators of cabbage moth caterpillars (the ones that eat our broccoli, kale, cabbage, bok choi and so on). Earlier this spring, we observed them hunting a mature broccoli patch, sometimes several wasps per plant and eating the caterpillars. Kaufman's Field Guide to Insects of North America describes these wasps as "generally placid" and I've found the same - if left undisturbed, they won't sting. In addition to Polistes, there are many other beneficial wasps and hornets at the farm, although less common. Most of the other helpful wasps we have at the farm are parasitoid - they lay their eggs on or in their prey so that the young can hatch and immediately begin feeding, thereby killing the food source. These wasps are a more ancient form with a long ovipositor that they use to lay their eggs on the host. It is unclear whether most of these wasps ever developed the ability to sting; I've held most of them in my hand, often many at a time, with no stings or attempts by the wasps to sting. These parasitoids are also smaller than the paper wasps, some about the size of a common gnat. Unlike the paper wasps, only the larva of the parasitic wasps are carnivorous and devour their host, the adults feed on flower nectar. Brachonid wasps prey on large caterpillars such as the hornworms that eat tomato plants and are naturally occuring in this region. If you see a large green caterpillar with small white eggs on its back, these are brachonid eggs. The larvae will eventually eat and kill the caterpillar. The other wasps described below cannot survive over winter and we have to bring them in every season to help us with pest control. Pediobius preys on the Mexican bean beetle. If you were a farm member 5 or 6 years ago, you might remember the shortage of beans. The bean beetle basically destroyed the entire season's crop. The next season we began bringing in Pediobius with fabulous results! These tiny wasps controlled the beetle better than we ever could and ensured a good bean crop. So next time you have green beans for dinner, think of the little wasp that makes it possible. Diglyphus is just as important to us for our swiss chard, beets and spinach. The leafminer fly also ruined our chard and spinach crop a number of springs ago, leading us to bring in Diglyphus. Just as with Pediobius, as long as we bring them in at the right time and in the right numbers, they provide great leafminer control, which allows for good chard, beets and spinach crops. Aphidus is new to us this season and we are trying them out in the hoophouse to control the aphids eating the tomato plants. So far so good - the aphid infestation seems to have halted and the plants look vigorous. We'll keep an eye on them and assess their performance at the end of the season. Finally, we bring in Trichogramma wasps to control the corn earworm. These wasps are the tiniest, about the size of a grain of sand and barely visible to the naked eye. This allows them to get inside the fruit (tomatoes and peppers) where the corn earworm is feeding and lay their eggs on this generalist pest - yes, corn earworms also love to eat tomatoes and peppers. Like the others, these wasps will reproduce and then die off in winter. As you can see, wasps are a critical part of our pest control strategy and an integral part of the farm. They allow us to produce organic vegetables without using pesticides. Many many thanks to our good friends - the wasps!
|
Summer Intern, Samantha Keegan,
Learns How to Extract Honey
It was a hot dusty Sunday in July. I arrived around ten in the morning to meet with Farmer Dennis and Bee Man Con for the extraction of honey. Preparations prior to my arrival included spraying a natural product called "Bee Be Gone" (an organic compound that which clears the honey box containing 10 frames of bees by creating an unpleasant scent). The hive is then cured with an air tunnel attached to the bottom to create airflow overnight. Honey is ready to be harvested when a thin layer of wax called a cap over each cell. The cap is created by the bees to ensure that after they have removed the moisture from the nectar. This is how the beekeeper knows when the honey is ripe. These thin wax caps need to be removed prior to extracting the honey. Three different tools are used to get rid of the caps, a knife, a hive tool, and a hairdryer. The knife, heated before use, is to gently shave off the caps from both sides of the comb, and to level the honeycomb out with the frame. The hive tool resembles a long toothed comb and is utilized by raking it along the caps just below the thin layer of wax in order to lift off the caps. The hairdryer melts away the thin caps. After removing the caps each frame is placed into the extractor which can hold four at a time. The extractor we used held four frames in a basket suspended in a cylinder attached to a pole in the center was a handle. Then the handle was cranked at a high speed forcing the honey to splatter onto the cylinder's walls, running down the sides through holes into the base well. We fell into a rhythm much like worker bees......raking the wax, shaving the wax, cranking and cranking. And what a well of honey it was. It is estimated that we extracted over 100 pounds of honey from 11 of the farm's hives. When the bottom well was full we filtered the honey into a bucket through a finer screen. That bucket had a valve near the bottom making filling the jars a swift job. The leftover honey in the comb is left to nourish the bees, as honey is their favorite treat. Where is the farm honey? It is being distributed by Ledemete Grass Farm during their chicken and pork distribution at the Resurrection Lutheran Church at the corner of Welsh and Mann Road. The next distribution will be Friday, August 24th.
|
|
|
|
Notes from the Edible Classroom
Ugh!! As I was closing up the EC on Friday, I found one of my least favorite garden pests -- the Tobacco Hornworm!! These pests are not really worms, but caterpillars or larvae, and they grow to be quite large, up to 4 inches long. The one I found, see the photo, was about 2 ½ inches long. The Tobacco Hornworm looks very similar to another hornworm found in the garden, the Tomato Hornworm. If you look carefully at the bodies, you'll see 2 distinct differences: the Tobacco Hornworm has a red "horn" (the Tomato's is brownish/black) and the white markings on the Tobacco's side are diagonal lines while the white markings on the Tomato Hornworm form a "V". The Tobacco Hornworm is much more common in our geographic location. The hornworm is pretty cool looking. Aside from it's red horn (which protrudes from its backend) and white stripes, it is a very pleasing shade of green, with black, yellow and red accents. It often hangs upside down and avoids detection by blending in with the plants. I noticed it because the horn was illuminated by the late afternoon sun, creating this bright, red streak next to the green plant. In the larvae or caterpillar stage, these guys can strip the foliage and fruit in next to no time. In a confined space like the EC, the best way to manage this pest is to pick them off the plant and deposit them in a bucket of water. I'm now on the lookout for evidence of one its natural predators, a parasitic wasp. The wasp lays its eggs on the hornworm's back and, once hatched, the wasp babies feed directly on the hornworm. If the eggs have been deposited on the hornworm's back, no action is necessary. Here is link showing the wasp eggs (wrapped in their white coccons) on the hornworm www.gardengrapevine.com. You'll note the disclaimer at the bottom of the linked page that the images are that of a Tobacco Hornworm, not a Tomato Hornworm as indicated at the top of the linked page. People often don't distinguish between the types of hornworms.We have several fig bushes/trees in the EC and a few CSA members have asked their varietal name. Well, I'm not 100% sure, but I did some web research and I believe our figs are known as Hardy Chicagos. The color, growth habit and leaf shape/arrangement or our figs are consistent with those of the Hardy Chicago. I've included a photo of a maturing fruit from one of our bushes. Figs are relatively easy to grow and ours are doing great. I haven't seen any sign of insect or disease damage and they are fruiting well. Please make sure to stop by and have a look at them next time you pick up your share. Come fall, we'll be sampling the fruit!CSA-member kids had a good week in the EC. Several kids helped plant more tomatoes and flowers. Still more were busy drawing garden scenes and catching white cabbage moths and grasshoppers. We pulled out the kale and broccoli to make room for additional new plantings next week and I think everyone who visited had a fresh snack of either blueberries or blackberries, or maybe some of both! Have a good week.Diane
|
Summer Calendar
Children's Programs
 Wednesdays, August 15 & August 29 Little Seeds, Ages 3-4 - 9:30am-10:30am Little Sprouts, Ages 5-6 - 11:00am - 12noon $8/child, $6/additional child
All classes at Meadowbrook Farm, 1633 Washington Lane, Meadowbrook 19046
Children and their favorite grownup learn about vegetables and what makes the garden grow best. A themed story, craft and hands on activity in the garden make this an enjoyable morning outdoors. Siblings 2 and under are welcome to tag along free of charge. Register here
Adult Programs
"Wildman" Steve - Hunt for Wild Elderberriesat Pennypack Ecological Trust
Sunday, August 12, 4pm, $20/adult $10/child
Join "Wildman" Steve Brill as he leads one of his world-famous foraging tours of Pennypack Trust in Huntingdon Valley, PA, a walking tour sponsored by Pennypack Farm.
We'll be looking for familiar wild blackberries, much better-tasting than any commercial varieties, and common elderberries, less known but great in jams, muffins, and pancakes. Black cherries, a native species with a flavor of cherry and grapefruit, may also bear abundant fruit. And we may even find lemony mayapples. Register here
Cooking Italian with Patrizia Cardone Tuesday August 14, 7:00 pm - 8:30 pm, $15 Add some Italian flare to your cooking this summer with juicy sun ripened tomatoes. Pennypack Farm member Patrizia Cardone will share her knowledge of traditional Italian cooking as she demonstrates quick and easy recipes for sauces, salads, and entrees. Register here Preserving the Wild Harvest
Thursday, August 16, 7pm-830pm, $20 Learn to use and preserve wild and not so wild edibles with David Siller. Turn your favorites into sauces, preserves, chips, pickles, leather, etc. Participants should bring: notebooks and tastebuds. Register here "Wildman" Steve - Hunt for Shaggy Mane Mushrooms at Pennypack Ecological Trust Saturday, October 6, 1pm, $20/adult $10/child
On Saturday, October 6, America's go-to guy for foraging, "Wildman" Steve Brill will lead one of his world-famous foraging tours of the Pennypack Trust in Huntingdon Valley, PA, a walking tour sponsored by Pennypack Farm. Register here |
Hosted by the College Settlement of Philadelphia

|
|
|