Surfing was a favorite sport of the Hawaiians - practiced by both royalty and commoners. Hawaiian legends talk about Pele, the Fire Goddess, and her competitiveness and skill at surfing. There's also a wonderful mele (song/chant) called He'eia about King David Kalakaua's surfing experience on the Kona coast where he showed off his skills to obtain a woman's favor. The exciting photo above is of the world famous surfer - Shane Dorian - on a wave in Teahupoo, Tahiti. His mother, Susie, is a dear friend of mine. I tried surfing once at a beach at Kipu Kai Ranch on Kauai in the late sixties. Kipu Kai is a pristine coastal valley on the seaward side of the Haupu Range. John T. Waterhouse, the last owner, gave the state the land in 1977 with some stipulations. Mary Kawena Pukui wrote a song praising the beauty of Kipu Kai and Jack Waterhouse's hospitality. Maddy Lam wrote the song's music. One weekend, two of my college friends and I visited Riccio Hasegawa, my father's good hunting buddy, who also worked as a ranch hand for Jack Waterhouse. Mr. Hasegawa and his wife took good care of us - and it was a privilege to walk on the beautiful grounds that included three beaches. One beach was perfect for gentle swimming (floating and soaking), another was for fishing and the third was great for surfing with small and steady waves. It was late afternoon. I had a healthy respect for the sea and would not have tried surfing if I had discerned any huge danger, but I was also 19 and felt this would probably be my only opportunity to try it. So, with some encouragement from our hosts, I borrowed a big board, lay forward on it and paddled with my arms far out into the bay. I could see beautiful reef not too far underneath. I knew how to catch waves from body-surfing and remembered seeing how board surfing was similar. I turned to face towards shore as a wave started to lift the board. With great effort I was able to push the board forward in front of the wave and to stand up, balancing, as the waves carried me to shore. What an exhilarating feeling it was - a wonderful gift that I still remember to this day. Ho'omakaukau is to be prepared. This means that each moment is an opportunity to really live life as it is, to live it authentically. It also means to practice, to perform as well as you can, before hula class, before a performance, before catching a big wave. So when the time comes, you're ready. Taking care of yourself is also a big part of being prepared. Our body and mind need deep rest to refresh and regain balance. And they also need deep joy. Hula is a time for joy to find you, and you it. Hula is gaining a new self-perspective through the focused coordination of mind, body and heart. It's finding grace in life - through touching something deeply felt and loved which you express through dance. I hope we never lose our sense of adventure and flexibility - not only for trying new things but also to open to new personal levels of clarity and commitment. The path can be challenging - but when you love something - walking it is never work. Every twist and turn is an opportunity for learning and growth - all in preparation to come full circle - to be fully "on the spot" flowering in service to others. Malama pono (take care of body, mind and heart), June Kaililani Tanoue Kumu Hula |