I would rather sell "orchard quality plants".  The plants grown for orchards may look like homely little sticks but grow vigorously and within 3 years are being harvested and making money for the farmer.   

Then the homeowner takes his/her purchase home, follows instructions that come with the plant and use the recommended planting mix and has problems.  When they complain the store's gardening pro blames the problems as either too much water, not enough water, not enough planting mix, not enough fertilizer, or the wrong fertilizer.  The homeowner tries to follow their advice with no change in results.  Ultimately this amateur gardener concludes that gardening is too difficult to pursue as a hobby.  A professional gardener is then hired and the homeowner now has someone else to blame for his/her lackluster garden. 

One of the reasons that I desire to remain in horticulture is that I have a perspective gained by being in and around the industry for over 50 years and that I wish to correct the errors in gardening technique being promoted by horticultural teachers.  Although most of these techniques are based on good research, most projects were only funded for relatively brief periods (months rather than years) and long-term consequences were ignored.  Of course there are some professors who have created their own World.  I will always remember that I was told that once plants are cultivated by man they can no longer be expected to grow in natural soil!  

When plants were grown in natural soil, we very rarely experience root rot problems due to overwatering.  Root rot diseases are promoted by low oxygen levels in the soil.  The sandy loam that was originally used in containers is quite permeable allowing adequate oxygen flow to the roots, even when installed into (surrounded by) heavy soil.   

Compost and all other dead organic matter consumes oxygen as it decomposes (aerobic decomposition).  Even what is called "finished" compost continues to decompose at a slow, but significant, rate.  When compost truly finishes decomposing there is virtually nothing left.  When roots are surrounded by decomposing dead stuff they have to compete with the fungus, bacteria, amoeba and all the other organisms chowing down on the compost for the available oxygen.  Plant roots have to breathe within the soil to stay healthy and vigorous.  When the compost is fresh, the particles that make it up may be coarse and permeable enough to allow an adequate flow of oxygen to keep roots healthy as well as permitting further aerobic decomposition.  As compost ages the coarseness and volume of the material gradually decreases and permeability declines.  Plants often become wobbly or lean due to the collapsing "soil" beneath.  As the compost turns to "muck" many roots suffocate and/or rot.  Under low oxygen levels organic decomposition produces acidic compounds which can affect the nutrients plant roots can obtain (causing chlorosis).  Under very low oxygen levels anaerobic decomposition produces toxic sewer gasses. 

I learned a great deal when I purchased a "top soil" created by a local compost company that was 60% sandy loam and 40% compost.  After losing many plants within a year of installation I dug through the soil and observed (at a 4" depth) about 1 plant root per foot.  I replaced the soil in that bed with sandy loam and within 6 months found about 1 plant root every 1/4 inch of soil at the same depth.  Roots of my lawn reached less than 2" deep in the "topsoil" and over a foot deep in sandy loam.      

 

That said, it is still possible to keep plants alive in a compost soil as long as it doesn't remain saturated for any length of time.  When soil is saturated all the pores (spaces between soil particles) is filled with water.  Water contains dissolved oxygen, as well as other gasses, but is much slower to exchange gasses than air.  When water is in contact with dead stuff it contains very little oxygen.   

When there is a large scale die-off of algae in the ocean the water turns red (red tide) and all the fish die from lack of oxygen.  Even though the dead algae make up just a tiny percentage of the volume, their dead bodies use up a significant amount of oxygen.  Just think of your plant's roots as fish. 

 

When the soil is no longer saturated (either the plant uses up the water or it drains away) air takes its place and oxygen moves more freely through the soil.  In this situation the irrigation has to be carefully monitored.  The period of time between saturation and too dry can be as little as a day when plants are first installed (not yet established).  Also, how do you control the rain? 

A friend of mine took a trip down to Guatemala to explore the forests where Avocados naturally exist.  He told me that they found the forest floor under the trees to be covered with 5-foot layer of dead leaves.  How on earth does the oxygen penetrate? 

Why do wholesale nurseries use compost to grow plants in? 

 

Worse yet, why do they continue to do so? 

Herbs  quarts  $3 

Arugala, Basil (cultivars include:  African Blue, Cinnamon, Dark Opal, Genovese, Lemon, Magic Mountain, Sweet Italian, Thai)(keep indoors at night for 3-4 more weeks), Chamomile, Cilantro, Dill, Fennel, Lemon Verbena, Mint (many types), Oregano, Rosemary, Sage, Stevia, Sorrel, Thyme (many types), Water Cress 

Peppers  quarts  $3 

Tomatoes  quarts  $3 

Strawberries  quarts  $3 

Other Vegetables quarts  $3 

Other Vegetables  6-packs  $3 

Fig assortment  1-gallon  $22
Strawberry Fig  5-gallon  $35
Italian Everbearing Fig  5-gallon  $35
Desertnyi Pomegranate  1-gallon  $20
Syzygium jambos ROSE APPLE  5-gallon  $30

More Plants 

SOIL