Laguna Hills Nursery
Placement of Trees in Your Backyard Orchard
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The average fruit tree can potentially grow 15-20' tall and wide.  There are naturally dwarf cultivars that exist, however if you are looking for the best tasting fruit these are not nearly as good.  There are dwarfing rootstocks, that will limit the size and/or vigor of the tree they are grafted to.   Many apples and citrus can be effectively dwarfed by grafting them to special rootstock.  Most rootstocks used, however, are chosen because they make the tree more tolerant of specific diseases or soil conditions.  Some rootstocks are even known to produce better quality fruit than the cultivar produces naturally.  If allowed to grow full size, most home gardens only have room for 2 or 3 trees. 

Fortunately, just about all fruit trees can be quite productive when maintained at just a fraction of their normal size.  Research trials have shown that the majority produce heavily at just 4' tall and wide with no special pruning skills required. 

Pruning during the summer months when the trees are in growth mode does not negatively affect the next year's crop production as it does when pruning is done in winter.  Next spring's flower buds develop during the fall.  Summer pruning for size control is now common practice on most types of fruit.  We still do some corrective pruning in winter. 

I maintain the majority of my fruit trees at 7' tall and 4' wide.  At this size I can pick fruit while standing on the ground and the plant still looks like a tree. 

When I was a bachelor my back yard looked like a mini orchard with trees planted every 7' feet in rows.  After I got married, the orchard look was out.  I now group my trees. 

I planted 11 cultivars of apple trees in my back yard.  Instead of planting them singly, 7' apart, I arranged them in three groups of 4,4 and 3 cultivars.  Each group is allowed to grow within an 8' wide circular area.  The tree's trunks are planted 24" apart in a circle in the center of the designated area.  As they grow I made certain that extra vigorous cultivars do not crowd out their neighbors.  After growing, each group looks like a single (multi-trunk) tree that is 7' tall and 8' wide.  The groups are far enough apart to allow us to plant flowers and shrubs. 

There are several advantages of this "grouping" method.  The close proximity of trees causes them to "dwarf" each other.  Tree growth naturally heads outwards toward open spaces.  The branches of different trees in each group operate as if they belong to a single tree.  The branches that normally grow 8' long won't suddenly grow 16' or 24' long, just because there is more than one trunk.  In other words, a grouping of 4 trees in no more difficult to keep within the 8' area than a single tree. 

A single 8' tree could produce about a hundred fruit that would ripen (in the case of apples) within 4-6 weeks.  If you grouped 4 trees with 4 different harvest periods, you would still get a hundred fruit, but the harvest period could be greatly extended allowing your family to eat, rather than give away, most of the fruit. 

Apple cultivars have some of the most widely distributed harvest periods.  The earliest apples can be picked before summer, the latest will hold until mid winter.  If you choose the right cultivars you can pick apples for 7 or 8 months of each year! 

Citrus fruit generally hold on the tree longer than any other fruit.  A navel orange can be edible in December or left on the tree until May.  Most citrus cultivars store on the tree for at least 4 months.  For this reason I usually plant my citrus singly and allow them to produce hundreds of fruit.  Very few are wasted.  Lemons and limes are popular because they can bloom several times per year and have fruit available 12 months of the year.

Fig trees have very perishable fruit, however most figs ripen only a few at a time over a 4-6 month period. 

You can group unrelated fruit trees, however a group of closely related trees is much more attractive.  The types of fruit than I usually group are those that ripen quickly.  Peach, nectarine, apricot, plum, pluot, and loquat.  I even group slower ripening fruits like apples and pomegranates to get a longer harvest season and more variety. 

I've given my avocado group a much larger area, about 12' across.  Avocado trees are relatively light producers and I will allow my trees to grow 8-12' tall. 

Many fruit trees can be grown as a hedge.  Citrus cultivars are easy to shear.  Loquats can be pruned into hedges.  Apple and pears are often trellised into hedgerows.  Don't forget that grapes do well on vertical and horizontal trellises. 
Sun Exposure

Full sun is best for most fruit trees.  A good half day of sun is minimum for a good crop (only the very top of any tree gets all day sun).  Good sun exposure is most important during the weeks when the fruit is ripening. 


I read an interesting article comparing the flavor of oranges grown on the south side with fruit grown on the north side of the tree.  The southern fruit contained much more sugars (sweetness) and acids (flavor) but had the same sugar/acid balance as the northern fruit.  To human tasters the fruit tasted the same even though the southern fruit was much more concentrated.  They also noted that the flavor of citrus fruit can be sweet one week and tart the next when acids levels increase faster than sugar levels.  Both the sugar and acids levels continuously increase (never decrease) the longer the orange is on the tree.

With your home creating shadows, the east, south and west sides will provide at least 1/2 day of sun exposure.  The north side is not necessarily a total lost. 

The north side is shady and somewhat cooler in the winter.  From mid spring to mid summer the north side is quite sunny except within a few feet of the wall.  The north side is fine for growing fruit that ripens during that 3-month period.  It is also the best location for deciduous trees that require marginally higher winter chill.

With this in mind I have planted cherry, apricot, plum and pluot trees on the north side of my two story home.  All of these require marginally cooler winters to fruit properly and all ripen when the sun is high in the sky.  There is also a loquat tree there that ripens in June. 

For tropical plants that are very sensitive to cold, the south side is the obvious choice. 
Bare soil and masonry absorbs heat during the day and provide a bit of lingering warmth during the night.  Bananas, papayas, pineapple and starfruit benefit greatly.  Plants that require more chill would be penalized. 

I've grown many fruit trees in partial sun locations and have been surprised by many successes.  The types of fruit that tend to sweeten unexpectedly well are fruit that naturally hang a long time after maturing.  This allows them to eventually sweeten sufficiently.  Many cultivars of apples, grapes and citrus perform well.  Loquat fruit seem to have a more mellow (lower acid) flavor.  Banana plants look great but produce smaller bunches.  Fig trees are very productive but notably bland. 

If you grow fruiting plants in containers you can place them and move them according to what they need.  If you need more chill, move the pot into the shade during winter and into the sun when the tree is producing.  If the tree is sensitive to cold, you can move it to a protected location during winter.  The main disadvantage with fruit trees in containers is that they tend to dry out faster than trees in the ground.  This results in smaller fruit and split fruit.  Some cultivars of oranges, pomegranates and figs can split when the soil gets dry between irrigations.  This problem can be overcome with automated irrigation and/or setting the container into a deep, water-filled saucer. 

Rotation of Trees Crops
The majority of farms crops are rotated to make certain that each crop's potential yield is maximized.  When a crop is harvested there are dead, dying and decaying root remnants left in the ground that can severely affect the health of any related crop.  Unrelated crops are not normally affected.  Once the initial crop's remains are gone (completely decomposed) it is safe to replant.

Annual crops are rotated on a 2-4 year cycle.  That is, the same or related crop is not planted until the second, third, or fourth year following the harvest of the first crop.  Unrelated crops are grown in between.  Farmers, especially organic farmers, must keep accurate records of their crops.  Farms can replant immediately if the soil is sterilized (fumigated).   

Perennial and woody crops (including tree crops) require a longer cycle of rotation.  This is because a lot larger root mass is involved when plants live several years or decades.  Sometimes the land is just left fallow (let the weeds grow) for a decade.  It takes a lot longer to finish decomposing the roots of trees, shrubs, or woody vines. 

Homeowners growing fruit trees have to follow the same rules.  If you remove an old peach tree you cannot grow a peach or other stonefruit in the same soil for about a decade.  An unrelated tree like a Citrus can grow in the same soil without ill effect, but any stonefruit would be stunted severely for many years. 

You do have another option.  You can replant a peach if you rotate (exchange) the soil.  In orchards a single tree is often replanted.  After the tree is removed the farmer removes 1/2 cubic yard (12.5 cubic feet) of soil (a hole roughly 3' by 3' by 18" deep).  This soil is exchanged with soil dug from the same size hole located at least 15' from the trunk.  I've actually met someone who worked in an apple orchard while in college and dug the holes.  He exchanged the soil with soil from the center of the road running between rows of trees.  He apparently wasn't told the theory behind the practice.  In agricultural research they call this a remedy for the replant syndrome

If you have an existing established (for at least a year) fruit tree and wish to plant the same or related fruit tree within a few feet of its trunk you will also need to exchange the soil.  Any soil dug from a hole located close to an existing tree will have severed roots of that tree.  If a young related tree is placed into the hole it will be surrounded by decaying roots of a relative (very bad), unless the soil from the hole has been "exchanged".   

This is the same technique that should be used when replacing a part of an ornamental hedge.  The soil must be exchanged to enable the replant to thrive.  The greater the volume of soil exchanged, the better the replant will grow.    
HAVE A WONDERFUL HOLIDAY!

Our next farmer's market will be Sunday January 1, 2012 at the Great Park.  Since there is no parade that morning, you might as well have a good time with us.  The market officially opens the first Sunday of each month at 8 am in conjunction with the Grove's Antique Market in the next parking lot.  We're not usually totally operational until about 9am though. 


Market Dates in January


SUNDAY 10am-2pm on January 1, 8, 15, 22, 29
The Great Park Farmer's Market
The Great Park in Irvine
Exit 5 at Sand Canyon, turn south on Marine Way (parallels the east side of the 5), follow the signs


SATURDAY 9am-1pm on January 7, 14, 21, 28
Old Towne Orange Farmers & Artisans Market
304 North Cypress Street, Orange
3 blocks north and 4 blocks west of the Orange traffic circle at Glassell and Chapman


FRIDAY 9am-1pm on January 13, 20, 27
Mission Viejo Farmers Market
200 Civic Center Drive
Exit 5 at La Paz going east, turn right on Marguerite, right on Civic Center

26285 Verona Place
Mission Viejo, California 92692