No matter how buggy your garden gets be thankful that you don't live in the southeastern portion of our country.  I lived in Galveston for more than a year.  My brother has a home in North Carolina.  We have family in Florida.  In these areas it's just not fun being outdoors in the summer.  California bugs are small and timid by comparison.  I remember crossing a muddy field in Texas and noticing a cloud of mosquitoes lifting off as I started to run.  I remember how large and colorful the bugs in Florida are.  I remember the crackling of bug zappers outside the bedroom window.  I actually wish we had fireflies, though. 

Here a rundown on the small critters you may currently have in your garden.

Ants  I hate ants in the garden.  They are protectors, promoters and transporters of Aphids, Mealybugs, Psyllids, Scale, Whiteflies and several other plant sucking insects.  Ladybugs, Lacewings and other beneficial insects operate more efficiently if ants are present.  Absolutely no one wants to share a kitchen or bathroom with them.  My home and garden have been ant-free for over a decade by using ant baits that kill the colony.  Most popular is the product Grant's Ant Granules.  (Not in stock this week)  

 

Snails and Slugs  Our unusually wet winter allows the population of snails and slugs to prosper as well as migrate.  It is much easier for them to cross over roads and walls  when the surface is cool and wet.  Fortunately with summer arriving the slugs won't be able to climb as high into plants to do damage, although snails are notorious for living in the treetops of Citrus and Coral Trees.  Sluggo is safe in organic gardens and with pets.   

 

Rose Slugs  These insects aren't slugs, or even look like slugs, but do create numerous holes in the leaves near the base of a rose plant.  Bad infestations can totally lace the foliage.  The adults are rarely seen and are a type of small, stingless wasp.  The larvae are difficult to see and look like small green caterpillars.  A lady handed me a damaged leaf off her rose bush and hadn't noticed the 5 rose slugs clinging to it.  They are not a true caterpillar and the insecticide Bt has no effect.  Spinosad products (organic) are quite effective.  There are supposed to be natural predators for control, but don't seem to be reliable.  There can be several generations per year and rose plants can be severely damaged.   

 

 

Pear Slugs  These are related to Rose Slugs but infest cherry, plum and pear leaves.  The larvae actually look like slimy slugs.  We do not usually treat infested trees because there is only one generation per year and by the time you notice the damage, the larvae have already matured and left.   

 

Citrus Leaf Miners  We've mentioned these before.  To prevent the destruction of new growth during summer and fall, start treating the new growth of your Citrus trees with Spinosad before the end of June.  The leaf miners don't touch mature foliage.  I don't treat the mature orange or mandarin trees in my garden because I don't need anymore growth in summer and the crop is not affected.   

 

Canyon Flies  These cause little harm to your garden but are extremely annoying as they fly around your face.  The adult females are attracted to sweat and carbon dioxide and some individuals, like myself, are a preferred target.  Their maggot larvae feed on decaying foliage, especially Red Apple Aptenia groundcover.  Apparently there is little you can do besides the "canyon wave" to shoo them away.  Canyon Flies are native to coastal foothills and mountains of California.  On livestock, the flies gather around the eyes and nostrils and feed on mucous.   

 

 

Budworms  Zonal Geraniums and Petunias are highly susceptible to damage from these small caterpillars.  Small moths lays eggs on developing flower buds.  The larvae eat the flowers before they open.   In well established gardens there can be enough natural predation to control these pests.  If not, treat with Spinosad during warm weather. 

 

CORRECTION:

A local fruit-growing friend has given me a different opinion of Fuji apple trees.  His tree produced wonderful crops of large, tasty fruit.  We still have Anna, Fuji and Granny Smith apple trees.

Blueberry plants have been a top seller at our farmer's markets for several reasons:
1.  They perform well locally.  Blueberries are native to North America from Canada to Florida.  The Southern Highbush Blueberries from the deep south perform quite well locally and a mature plant can produce 10-15 pounds of berries per year. 
2.  They prefer being in a container.  Blueberry plants like well-drained, moist, acidic soil.  This is easier to create in a container or a raised planter (filled with Laguna Hills Nursery ACID MIX) than in the ground. 
3.  They can be kept small enough to place on a deck, porch or balcony. 
4.  Mature plants are always producing.  The main crop is harvested over a 4-6 week period in late spring-early summer, however, our mild climate allows plants to bloom repeatedly.  A homeowner with several large blueberry plants (not all the same cultivar) will be able to pick at least a few berries virtually any day. 

Precautions:
1.  Keep them wet.  Blueberry plants do not respond well to periods of dry soil and may never recover. 

2.  Get the plants from us.  We obtain plants from farm suppliers.  Farm suppliers have to sell plants that perform well.  These plants are grown in peat and loam.  We also grow the plants we obtain in our own permanent soil (see 3).  Plants sold at most retail outlets are growing in ground bark, performing well for only a few months before the decaying bark causes trouble.  (Bark is cheaper than peat and actually performs better for a brief period of time.)   

 

My main pet peeve is that virtually all trees and shrubs on display at garden centers are growing in composted bark or sawdust.  While there are many types of plants that tolerate this compost, others like Blueberries, Citrus and Avocados as well as Camellias, Gardenias, Japanese Maple and Lavender perform poorly following installation.   

 

3.  Get the soil from us.  Our potting soils are mineral-based and permanent, while all other commercial soils are sawdust or bark-based and only good for 5 months to 18 months of use. 
4.  Get more than 1 variety.  Even if you don't have room for 2 plants you can plant 2 cultivars in one container to extend your harvest season.  Most varieties make more fruit and sometimes even larger berries, when pollinated by a different cultivar.