Ballston Buzz - October 2009

Authentic Italian and Austrian, without Breaking the Bank

Mark Robert Hays, Cambridge Associates

Driving past the busy intersection of Fairfax and Randolph, packed with office buildings and apartment complexes, one could go years without discovering the tiny cafe featuring some of the best Italian and Austrian food in the DC area. Cafe Tirolo, unassumingly tucked away behind the new Temple Lounge on Fairfax, resembles a strange mix of cultures in appearance. It resembles a tiny, back alley European eatery on the outside and an American deli on the inside.

Adding to the caf�'s mystery is the striking atmosphere upon entering; a bustling, energetic workforce stands at attention behind the counter, far from the slow, meandering dinners one often associates with European meals. Don't let the appearance or atmosphere fool you; Cafe Tirolo features both some of the most authentic and exciting new takes on the Italian and Austrian cuisine in the entire metro area, all at an inexplicably low cost.

Founded by DC staple Tiberio's former head chef, Vic Kreidl, along with his wife and daughter, Tirolo was always a family run business specializing in both Italian and Kriedl's native cuisine, Austrian. When news broke that Kreidl would retire in 2006, food-lovers all across the area rushed to Tirolo to taste what they feared would be the last of the establishment, or at least the establishment as they knew it. Fortunately for them, and for all of us new to the area, Kreidl was busy in his last eight months at Tirolo training his workers and cooks, who were to take over as owners, exactly the methods which had made the cafe such a roaring success.

Now to the food - what has caused Tirolo to be showered with all the superlatives above in the first place. Tirolo shines brightest at lunch, with a plethora of sandwiches and appetizers that are all made to order, of course. Its marinara stands firmly as one of the best in the area. - zesty, almost tangy blend of spices and herbs steeped in authentic European flavors. A word to the wise: request a bowl of marinara on the side for dipping as everything from the opening complimentary bread to full sandwiches is enhanced by the sauce. This said, the fresh mussels marinara as a starter is a must. doused in a healthy portion of their sauce and deliciously fresh.

The real stand-alone on the starter menu, however, is Tirolo's fresh avocado crabmeat salad. The dish has won the cafe praise across many publications and countless customers. An abundant heaping of fresh, flaky crabmeat salad mixed with tomato, basil, and lemon dressing sits in a halved avocado, producing a light and flavorful dish that's perfect for splitting for two as an appetizer or for one to enjoy as a meal. Other highlights from the starters include prosciutto melon (think crabmeat salad, but with different ingredients), the tomato-goat cheese salad and asparagus parmigiana.

Tirolo's sandwiches are more of the same, often splashed with the caf�'s signature marinara and blessed with a handful of spices that set them apart from typical lunch fare. A basic chicken parmesan is turned into something special at Tirolo with gooey mozzarella and tender fresh chicken. Its take on a hot sausage it not a sausage placed on a hot dog roll, but thinly sliced sausage patties and fresh hot peppers placed on a long sub roll. This theme continues throughout its menu, as Tirolo's chefs routinely take Austrian (try the Goulash on a winter day) and Italian classics and turn them into something special.

Tirolo has made the Washingtonian's famed Cheap Eats list every year, which highlights the metro area's best values. In a time when restaurants everywhere are substituting authentic ingredients for cheap alternatives, Cafe Tirolo has inexplicably found a way to substitute nothing while still providing the best deals in the area. Sandwiches range from $5-$6.50, with a daily special of a sandwich with fries and drink for $6.95. Full pizzas (perfect for two) are under $12, while full entrees range from $9-12. Appetizers also are easy on the wallet, ranging from $4 to $12 (the stellar crabmeat salad runs $11.95, worth every penny).

Most often in the DC metro area one is faced with a choice: taste or value. It's refreshing and lucky for those of us in the Ballston area that Cafe Tirolo has found a way to combine the two, with some of the best food and service in the area all for prices which beat out almost every other offering for lunch and dinner. One can only hope its excellence will continue for years to come so that Ballston can continue to offer one of the best value and overall Italian and Austrian establishments in the area.