Australian Terrier International
Meeting The Needs Of Aussie Owners Globally
© 2010 Australian Terrier International
June, 2010 - Vol 1, Issue 6
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Dear Friends,
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This is our 6th Newsletter and 1/2 Year anniversary.
We salute you, our members and our readers.
We thank you for sharing your stories and your photos, for reading the newsletter, for learning and most of all we thank you for your kind words and support. Your Aussie(s) are benefiting from your increased knowledge.
To those who have shared their photos and stories please know they have touched the hearts of so many in 24 countries.
We look forward to the next 6 months.
We now have a new lending library. We will ship books to you overseas. No ATI money was used to purchase any books or DVDs. They were all purchased privately for your benefit. Check the website for book and DVD titles.
The studies are up on the website please vote before July 1 for the studies you would like to help support with your money. We will support two studies this year.
Have a wonderful, safe and healthy summer.
Pamela Levy
Editor
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Education Night with Sue Holsinger
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The topic of whelping is timely because so many breeders are just about to have puppies. If you have already had puppies please listen, as this may be very helpful for your next litter.
Please reserve June 15th6pm PST 7pm MST 8pm CST 9pm ESTThis month we will be speaking with Karen Copley, who founded Veterinary Perinatal Services, home to the WhelpWise service.The WhelpWise service was developed specifically to address the puzzling times surrounding a whelping by providing the breeder with accurate information on presence or absence of labor and assessments of fetal well being as detected by the monitoring equipment.You can learn more about Karen and this fabulous service at: www.whelpwise.comThe education night is for members only. If you have not joined ATI, now is the time. The conversation will also be taped and will be on the website as a podcast.Membership Only $20All money goes to Canine Health Foundation |
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Photo Contest Winner
| Congratulations to our Photo Contest winner Ulla-Britt Norgren from Sweden.We want to thank you all for sending in your photos and for voting.
All photos received votes and were greatly enjoyed by all.
Ulla-Britt will be receiving a copy of Camino Books, Australian Terrier Champions 1960-2005, purchased by a private donor.
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ATI's First Lifetime Member "Happy 95th Birthday, Jennie Worthing"
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ATI is proud to honor Jennie Worthing with the 1st Lifetime Membership.
Photo Courtesy of Theresa Goiffon Jennie Worthing at 95 Years Young
Jennie lived in Australia with her family for several years and got her first Aussie there. When she moved back to the US, in the 1960's, she brought her Aussies with her. One of her famous Aussies, was Ch. Taralee Fakir who was the sire of Ch. Crestwood's Cracker Jack. Check your pedigrees you may well have these dogs in them.
Theresa Goiffon and I, Pamela Levy, had the great pleasure of visiting with Jennie in her home and spending the day with her. What a joy to look at her old photographs and relive many of her Aussie experiences.
For her Birthday we did a video featuring many of her archival photos of Aussies and wishes from many Aussie lovers from around the world. If you have not seen it, you can click on this link. (Some countries are not able to view)
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ATI is PROUD to offer ALL Australian Terrier Lovers over 75 years old, in ALL countries, a Lifetime Membership. If you have owned, bred or showed Aussies, we would love to feature you in our newsletter. Please contact me directly at: pamelalevy@aol.com.
Juniors are our future, we are all the present, but our Lifetime Members hold our very important history and past. We at ATI cherish you and would like to honor you.
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Massage-Helping Your Aussie Feel It's Best by Mary Kennedy
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Canine Massage
Our canine
companions benefit from massage in the same way that people do. The benefits of
massage range from improved flexibility and increased circulation, to enhanced
muscle tone and reduced inflammation. Other benefits of massage are to relieve
muscle pain by releasing endorphins, to stretch and relax muscles, to improve range
of motion of the limbs, to release toxins from tissues that cause soreness and
stiffness and to calm the animal and improve disposition.
Why is touch so important?
Touch is a most
powerful form of non-verbal communication. Studies have shown that touch is
essential for growth and development of all socially dependent animals.
How is massage different from petting?
Massage takes
touch to a level way beyond that of "petting" our animals. The
intention with each stroke is controlled as to technique and pressure. Massage
is a focused and deliberate way of touching your animals.
I have been practicing animal
massage for eight years and I am consistently amazed at the immediate benefits
that are gained. Recently Moxie, an elderly canine client, came to me barely
able to walk and disinterested in eating. Her eyes were dull and her human
companion was concerned about the dog's attitude. During the massage, her
little body relaxed, her eyes closed, and she drifted off to "doggy dreamland"
so that I could do my work. Upon
finishing the session, she turned and gave me a gentle lick of thanks on the
back of my hand. Moxie rose
stiffly at first, accepted a treat, and hobbled out the door. Her human called
me that night to tell me she had eaten a full dinner, was moving much more
freely and her eyes were very bright and alive. We now have massage sessions
on a regular basis and she is maintaining more comfortable movement, enjoying
life and begging for supper.
Next month, I will address conditions that respond favorably to massage as well as explain various techniques to massage your Aussie.
 Mary Kennedy and Friends
For more information or to make an appointment for your
canine companion, please call me at 303-579-2903 or write me at: marykennedyb@aol.com. Please check www.inthepresenceofanimals.com for upcoming classes.
For a testimonial to the wonders of massage go to:
http://www.peoplepets.com/style/treats/pet-massage-therapy-moves-the-healing-process-along-gently/1
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Photos, Photos, Photos
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Photo Courtesy of Christine Donahue "Tillie"
Photo Courtesy of Tracy Nelson "Kiwi"
Photo Courtesy of Bonnie Wilson "Cody"
Photo Courtesy of Mervi Soiletsalo; Photographer: Kenneth Holmberg "Moko"
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Choosing The Stud Dog
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Last Month's Education night discussed The Stud Dog, with Robert Hutchinson DVM. The podcast is now on the website.
We want to hear from you.
What Stud dogs do you feel have been important in your country and why?
If you have a photo of the dog can you please send it as a jpg?
What characteristics do you look for in a Stud dog?
email us at: info@AustralianTerrierInternational.org
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Rally with Ruthann McCaulley
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Doodlebug, an Introduction to Rally Obedience
Ruthann McCaulley
The information
presented is this online Doodlebug column is a condensed excerpt from the
electronic book Doodle by
Design, The Comprehensive Guide to Rally Obedience by Ruthann McCaulley and
available at: http://countrydream.wordpress.com/webstore-rally-o-lesson-plans/as a download or it can be ordered as a CD.
Never use a training method that you feel
uncomfortable with, or adopt or use a training philosophy that makes you feel
uneasy. If you are in a class setting and your instructor wants you to do
something you don't want to do, don't do it. You can politely explain to the
instructor the problem you have with doing what they are asking. Most
instructors will respect this. These are in no particular order.
Never train when you're in a bad mood.
Punishment is a bad word and is never
ever used in dog training. Never!
Treat is not a dirty word, but treats should be a reward and not a bribe.
You should also refrain from being a cookie dispenser for no reason at all. If
the dog is rewarded for doing nothing, then why should it do what you ask?
Correction is not a bad word. To correct means to help your dog get something
right. Corrections help the dog learn.
Never repeat a command. Give it one time
and one time only. Repeating the command only gives your dog the option of
responding when they want.
Tell your dog to do something; don't ask.
It's called command for a reason.
Always be ready to enforce every command
you give, and never give a command you can't or won't enforce.
There isn't one method of training that works for
every dog or handler. Some methods work great for one dog and are totally wrong
for others. Just because a method is popular or being touted as the best thing
since sliced bread doesn't make it right for your dog.
There
are no miracle cures, no quick fixes, and no short cuts.
Be consistent. Inconsistency is unfair to
your dog, and it will slow your training.
When the dog does something brilliant,
especially if it's doing an exercise that they have had a problem with,
stop immediately and reward the dog.
Just because the dog offers a behavior one
or two (or even 20!) times does not mean the dog knows or understands the
behavior.
Very important points to remember about corrections
Never use any type of correction until you are absolutely
sure your dog knows the exercise. During the shaping phase of learning you will never
correct your dog. If there is any doubt as to whether or not your dog
really knows the exercise err on the side of caution and continue to shape
the behavior before you add any corrections.
Always remain completely unemotional
about the correction.You are not mad at the dog, you are simply
helping the dog get something correct that they were doing incorrectly or
about to do incorrectly.
When a dog makes a mistake and you must correct them,
immediately play with the dog (see motivational play below) until they are
happy and ready to go again. Do not keep correcting the dog over and over without
breaking off to play; you will demoralize the dog completely.
When you have played with the dog and they are relaxed and
happy, immediately give them a chance to do the exercise correctly so they
can apply what they have learned.
Then quit when they get it right. Reward for a job well done.
Once the dog understands a behavior, you do not treat or
reward a dog for a behavior that you have corrected or caused to happen
correctly. Yes, you
should smile and give a sincere "good sit," or whatever. But hold those
treats until the dog offers the correct behavior on their own.
A dog should never be afraid to make a mistake. Mistakes will happen.
They can be corrected. Mistakes are an opportunity to learn. Often a dog
learns more by being allowed to think something through and try different
things to see what is correct.
If the dog makes a mistake on one exercise two times in a
row, stop right there and back up in your training. The dog may not understand, may be confused, or
may just be having a bad time. Whatever the reason, you do not want the
dog to continue to make a mistake. Help the dog do it right using whatever
means needed.
If you find yourself making frequent corrections you need
to examine exactly what is going on.
Depending on the situation one correction out of two attempts could be
considered frequent.
1. The dog may not fully understand what you are
asking from them.
2. The dog may be confused.
3. The training method that you are using is not
working for the dog and they are not learning the exercise. This
means you need to find another way to teach the dog what you want
them to do.
4. You may have
unknowingly taught the dog the Incorrect Performance of the exercise.
Jackpots are super duper special rewards given for a job
well done or when the dog makes a breakthrough on an exercise they have
been having a great deal of trouble with. A jackpot is just that, the mother lode.
Dogs learn to connect the word "jackpot" with a big special treat, so when
I am going to give them a jackpot, I tell them.
If you generally give your dog one tiny little bite
of a treat as a reward the jackpot might be ten pieces. Deliver the pieces
to the dog very slowly one at a time
with genuine praise. On
of my training partners says this is "fine dining" verses fast food.
Another form of jackpot is a special game or
extended playtime. Break off training and immediately begin to play with
the dog for a longer than usual period of time or use both treats and
play.
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Earthdog: Part Two with Deborah Wolbach and Chuck Bessant
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Photo Courtesy Of Deborah Wolbach and Chuck Bessant "Tyler" and "Jordon"
Deborah Wolbach and
Chuck Bessant own four Aussies and Amanda, who thinks she is an Aussie .
Australian
Terriers as Earthdogs
Two types
of events serve to prove that the Aussie has not lost its original purpose:
· go
to ground hunt trial - the American Working Terrier Association (AWTA)
· simulated
hunt test - the American Kennel Club (AKC)
In the
May issue, we briefly discussed Aussies as earthdogs. In this issue, we'll
cover two organizations that offer earthdog tests: AWTA and AKC.
AWTA
By promoting the use of terriers for earth work and above
ground hunting, the American Working Terrier Association
encourages breeders to retain the hunting instincts that make these breeds so
characteristically "terrier." Without the opportunity to test the
instincts so vital to these breeds, terriers would cease to be the working dogs
they were meant to be - something already too common with many terrier breeds
selected for showing alone.
The main objective of the AWTA is to encourage terrier
owners into the hunt fields with their dogs. As an educational aid and to
disseminate information to the membership, the quarterly magazine, Down To Earth, is published. You can view it at: http://www.dirt-dog.com/awta/index.cfm
Information on AWTA hunt
trials: http://www.dirt-dog.com/awta/trial_schedule/index.cfm
Earthdog hunt trials are
sanctioned by the AWTA.
Offered titles:
Certificates
of Gameness (CG)
Hunting
Certificate (HC)
Working
Certificate (WC)
There
are four class divisions:
Novice
A & B (similar to AKC's Intro to Earthdog)
Open -
CG is awarded in the Open class only
Certificate
An AWTA den trial is
scheduled for June 29, 2010 as part of the Great Western Terrier Association
show weekend. For more details, email Carol Hamilton at: (Katiedid.dandies@roadrunner.com).
AKC
The roots of the Earthdog program go back to the
beginnings of small game hunting. Farmers and hunters used small terriers to
pursue vermin to its lair, following the game into the ground. These dogs had
to possess not only the physical attributes that would allow them to descend
into the animal's den and to battle the animal on it's own terms, but also they
needed the courage and mental abilities to accept the challenge of subterranean
pursuit. http://www.akc.org/events/earthdog/history.cfm
What is an AKC earthdog
test? "Earthdog"
tests or "Go to Ground" trials are conducted using 9"x9" wood
lined tunnels with an earth bottom that are buried and scented to resemble a rodent
den. Tunnel configurations vary for IE, JE, SE and ME/EE. Each test has
different timing parameters to reach the quarry, work the quarry, and retrieve
the dog.
Earthdog tests are
sanctioned by The AKC.
Five tests and four
titles are offered:
Intro to Quarry/Earthdog (IQ -
non-titled)
The
tunnel is 10 feet long and 9 inches by 9 inches with one 90 degree turn.
The
dog is released 10 feet from the opening of the tunnel with one brief command
from the handler (there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the dog
towards the entrance).
If
the dog won't enter the tunnel, the handler may walk up to the entrance and
encourage the dog to enter. Once in the tunnel, the handler needs to be silent.
Once
in the tunnel, the dog has two minutes to begin working - barking, growling,
scratching, digging, lunging, etc (a "death stare" doesn't count as working) -
and must work for 30 seconds. If necessary, the judge may help with some gentle
encouragement to get the dog to work.
Junior Earthdog (JE)
The
tunnel is 30 foot long and 9 inches by 9 inches with three 90 degree turns.
The
dog is released 10 feet from the opening of the tunnel with one brief command
from the handler (there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the dog
towards the entrance).
The
handler must remain silent from this point until the judge says it is okay to
retrieve the dog.
The
dog has 30 seconds to reach the quarry. The dog may leave and enter as often as
it likes, but it must reach the quarry within 30 seconds. Once the dog has
reached the quarry, it must remain there and work.
The
dog has 30 seconds to begin working. The dog must work the quarry for 60
seconds to pass.
The
handler must remove the dog by recall from the tunnel or at the end of the
tunnel where the quarry is located. There is no time limit for retrieval.
Senior Earthdog (SE)
The
tunnel is 30 foot long and 9 inches by 9 inches with three 90 degree turns with
a false exit and false den.
The
dog is released 20 feet from the opening of the tunnel with one brief command
from the handler (there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the dog
towards the entrance).
The
handler must remain silent from this point until the judge says it is okay to
retrieve the dog.
The
dog has 90 seconds from release to reach the quarry, with entry and exit as
often as it likes.
Once
the dog reaches the quarry, it must remain and start working within 15 seconds,
and work for 90 seconds.
Once
the dog has passed the working portion, the handler must recall the dog from
the main entrance. The dog can exit from the false entrance or the primary
entrance as long as the dog is retrieved within 90 seconds.
Master Earthdog (ME)
The
test is conducted as a brace of two dogs matched by a drawing of armband numbers;
the dogs must not live together.
The
tunnel is 30 to 40 feet long and 9 inches by 9 inches with three 90 degree
turns with a false exit and false den. At one point in the tunnel, a 6"
diameter obstruction/constriction fits loosely is added for the dog to navigate
over or under.
The
hunt begins 100 to 300 yards from the tunnel allowing the off-lead dogs to
follow the handlers' voice commands to the tunnel. The dogs are expected to
work together, honor each other and not interfere with each other.
Once
at the tunnel, a dog must decisively mark the scented entrance to the den. Once
the first dog marks the entrance, it is removed by the handler so the second
dog has a chance to mark the entrance. Marking does not mean urinating at the
entrance; it means the dog has found the entrance, showing interest and wants
to go in. However, it is not uncommon for a dog to urinate at the entrance. It
happens.
Once
the dogs have marked the entrance, the first dog is given an opportunity to
enter the tunnel. The entrance is blocked to prevent the dogs from entering for
safety reasons. Once the obstacles are cleared from the entrance, the first dog
that marked the tunnel is released at the opening of with one brief command
from the handler (again, there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the
dog towards the entrance). The handler must remain silent from this point until
the judge says it is okay to retrieve the dog.
The
dog has 90 seconds to reach the quarry and must begin working within 15
seconds, and work for 90 seconds. After 60 seconds of work, the judge creates a
distraction over the quarry end of the tunnel to simulate digging sounds. The
dog must continue to work the remaining 30 seconds without interruption.
After
90 seconds, the judge will say it is okay to remove the dog, and the handler
has 15 seconds to retrieve by voice commands.
While
the first dog is working, the second dog is staked 10 feet from the tunnel
entrance using a flat collar and a twist-in-the-ground stake to safely restrain
the dog. This dog must show interest and may make sounds but not excessively.
This is called 'honoring' the first dog. The second dog's handler may provide
mild corrections to settle the dog if needed.
Once
the first dog completes the test, pass or fail, it will switch places with the
second dog and honor the second dog while it completes the test.
Effective March 10, 2010, the
first new title was created since the program's inception in 1993: Endurance
Earthdog (EE). Once a dog has passed ME, it can compete for an EE.
EE
is award to a dog that passes both SE and ME on the same test day - a
double-qualifier. The dog can earn as multiple EE titles; only one per test
event. As a dog earns multiple EEs, a number is added to the title such as
EE-1, EE-2, and so on. EE appears after the ME title suffix of the dog's
registered name.
In
our opinion, JE is the most challenging: after releasing the dog with one short
command, the dog must reach the quarry in 30 seconds. In SE, while the tunnel
is more complex, the dog has 90 seconds to reach the quarry yet the dog already
has experience.
Conformation
or earthdog tests are not an either/or proposition. Aussies can and do
participate in go-to-ground trials one weekend and compete in the conformation
ring the same or next weekend. The next opportunity for a combined conformation
and earthdog event weekend will be Great Western Terrier Association the end of
June in Long Beach, California.
Happy showing and digging!
We
hope these articles have piqued your curiosity. Please email your questions or
topic requests about earthdog you'd like covered. We look forward to hearing
your comments and suggestions. Deborah: deborah.wolbach@gmail.com and
Chuck: cbessant@gmail.com.
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Agility
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Starting off on the Right Paw
Start out with the tunnel set up straight and 'scrunched' up so that
it's shorter. Have your dog sit and stay (or have someone hold him),
and then go to the other end and call him through the tunnel. Give
treats and praise and tell him how wonderful he is and wasn't that fun?
Repeat that, slowly lengthening the tunnel. Don't make it too long,
too fast. Remember, light at the end of the tunnel is just as important
for dogs as it is for people! The next stage is to send your dog
through the tunnel with you running alongside it. Then you can start curving it so your dog doesn't see the light at the other end.
More advanced work is to 'send out' ahead to a tunnel with you
standing still.
Popular Call Words
Use a specific command for this obstacle, like 'tunnel', 'go tunnel' or
'through'. This is called "obstacle discrimination", and while body
language is the most important thing, there are certain challenges on
courses that are better tackled if your dog knows the obstacle name.
The goal is to get your dog to go bonkers for this word just as much as
he does for 'wannagoforaride'?
Avoiding the Traps
Judges (who design courses for competitions) know how much dogs love
tunnels. They can sometimes be tricky in setting up their courses by
including a tunnel 'trap', where your dog has to choose between a tunnel
and another obstacle that are placed very close together (snaked under
an A-frame or a Dog-Walk). The trick here is make sure your dog knows
his obstacle or directional commands to avoid the vacuum of tunnels over
the proper obstacle. Train for tunnel traps! Place your tunnel under a
contact obstacle or near a jump where it will tempt your dog to run in
(because it's fun!) and train him that nope, tunnel is not always the
best choice. Set up another tunnel on the other side of the course, and
lay out your course so that sometimes it's tunnel A he runs through,
sometimes its' tunnel B, and he only gets to go in when he hears those
marvelous words, 'Go Tunnel!' You'll save yourself and him points at
trials, and by limiting when he can go in the tunnel, you'll make them
even more wonderful when he does get to go in (like that favorite toy
you keep out of reach and is only for when he is a very very good dog!).
Mix things up. Sometimes he gets both tunnels, and sometimes no tunnels
to keep him looking to you for tunnel directions.
Let's Talk Tunnels
Practice tunnels are good for most back-yard purposes, providing they
are as close as possible to the competition diameter of 24". Too small
and your dog will learn to crouch and this will slow him up. Get one
that is at least as thick as canvas (not the lighter weight nylon)
because not only will it last longer, but also the heavier weight makes
it more secure against rolling and moving. Competition Tunnels are best
for this reason, as they have very thick coils. The longer the better,
because you can do curves and s-shapes for 'tunnel traps' (see above).
If you have two shorter length tunnels with the same diameter, you can
attach them together to make a longer tunnel by using large office
binder clips on the edges. No matter what kind of tunnel you have,
they're easy to handle; they scrunch up like a slinky for storage.
Remember, if your dog gets scared of tunnels, straighten them out,
shorten them, and let the light shine in with plenty of praise and love
and treats. Agility is fun!
http://www.affordableagility.com/TUNNELS.htm
Afforable Agility Equipment
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Happy Father's Day, June 20th
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The Mechalke's Wish All Father's A Fabulous Day! Photo Courtesy Of Cheryl Mechalke
To Our Human Dads
Thanks for the talks and the fabulous walks.
We love our house and the occasional mouse.
You work off your tail to bring us great food.
You are the greatest to me, I'm over the moon.
Have a Great Day!
Drinks at my water bowl, are on me!
To Our Aussie Dads
Thanks for delivering; fresh frozen or chilled
I owe my life and good looks to you
I know, as your photo, is on our windowsill
To All Our Fathers Two Legged and Four
Thanks for all you do
We send you doggy kisses and more!
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Gift's For Dad
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Make Cuff links with your dog's photo.Cuff LinksHow about a personalized coffee mug?Mug How about a luxury seat cover for his car to keep it clean?There are many in the market. I found this one...http://www.grandinroad.com/jump.jsp?&itemType=PRODUCT&itemID=1339&K=ZZ50924Take Dad and your Aussie down memory lane together. If there's a computer
graphics expert in the family, gather together still photos and video of
Dad's history with this current Aussie. If you can get some of Dad's
childhood photos with other pets, add them to
the mix. Put them all together to make a Father's Day video, complete
with music and narration to exhibit at the family gathering for lunch or
dinner honoring Dad and his pal.Dianne and "Ozzie" Wall Wish All A Happy Father's Day Happy Father's Day, Daddy Jim, Love Your Ozzie
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Spotlight on Carin Sandahl from Sweden
| Carin has been instrumental in ATI's success. She submits monthly information about what is happening in Sweden. We couldn't do what we do, without Carin.
This month Cheryl Mechalke interviewed Carin. We greatly appreciate and thank Carin for her involvement in ATI. We also hope she is getting a little rest after having two large litter's. Congratulations on your puppies and we wish you much success with them.
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Photo Courtesy of Carin Sandahl "Trimming Nails"
Why did you decide to get your first Aussie? What attracted you to the breed?
We had Standard Poodles at the time and I had been charmed by Norwich Terriers and was thinking of buying one as a second breed. But, the time did not seem right so some years passed. Then I read an article about Australian Terriers in our Kennel Club magazine. It was a big article over three pages and I was totally hooked after having read it. That was the breed I had been looking for. Me and my husband went to visit a breeder to meet the breed "live" so to speak, and we both fell in love with these little dogs. We loved the happiness, the alertness, that they were so easy to communicate with, and the intelligence etc. The whole picture was attractive, and the year after we managed to buy a promising bitch pup from Finland.
What is your most memorable or favorite Aussie story?
That is difficult, but I come to think of our first Aussie, Julia. She was (as I have discovered that all Aussies are) very special. She is the only one that has been a "one man/woman dog". She loved visitors and was outgoing and curious of everything, but she was MY dog. When she was a puppy we had our arguments about who was the boss, no protests accepted when clipping claws or trimming, and after that she considered herself being my assistant. If the other dogs did not obey my orders, little Julia made them know it! She helped me take care of the poodle puppies, telling the other dogs what to do, or rather what not to do. Checking the grown up dogs so nobody was to hard on the pups - if so Julia gave them a lesson. She was also a terrific mother to her own puppies. She was a skilled ratter, she was the most reliable and faithful dog you could imagine. She was very special to me and the only dog I have known to have principles of how to behave for both herself and the other dogs.
How long have you had Aussies?
Since 1984, that is 26 years this year! Oh my how quickly the years fly!
 Photo Courtesy of Carin Sandahl
Have you bred any litters?
Yes, I have right now litters 44 and 45 at home.
Do you do confirmation? Agility? Obedience?
When I was younger I did some obedience with my Standard Poodles, but I have not had the time with the Aussies - unfortunately, they would love it!
Have you ever imported or exported an Aussie?
Yes, I have done both. I have imported a couple of dogs from Australia and one from the US, and I have exported dogs to the Nordic countries and to the US.
What were the positives about doing that?
Besides the exchange of blood lines, which is necessary, you get to know other interesting people with the same interest as your self.
Is there anything regarding importing or exporting you would like to see changed?
Yes, our Swedish blood test regulations considering rabies, but that is going to change in a couple of years I heard.
Do you have children?
Yes two, but they are grown up and have moved home. I even have a couple of grandchildren.
Do you have other interests or hobbies?
Yes, lots of them, like flowers, books, needlework, drawing, sculpturing etc, but all that has to wait until the dogs has got their part of my time.
How are you enjoying ATI?
I enjoy reading it very much - and the photos! I think it´s a great idea to increase the knowledge about how things work in other parts of the world. To make us understand each other better, and to make it easier to make Aussie friends all over the world. We have a small breed, and its vital to be able to find new breeding material in other parts of the world, to broaden the gene pool.
What more would you like to see us doing?
I think you do a terrific job already. Can´t think of anything.
Photo Courtesy of Carin Sandahl Luna of Twe-Dle-Dee
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Traveling with Your Aussie by Pamela Levy
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Summer is finally here. According to the American Animal
Hospital Association,
67 percent of pet owners
vacation or travel with their pets. To make sure your trip is as
uneventful as possible please plan and prepare. Here are my helpful tips.
Should You Take Your Dog?
Does your dog like to travel?
Does your dog have an illness that will be problematic if it travels?
If traveling by car, can the dog get in and out easily?
Are you traveling in a warm climate where leaving him in the car could be
hazardous to his health?
Note: Many grocery stores do not have shade in their parking lots. Dogs can die
quickly if left in a car even for just a few minutes. In many communities, it
is illegal to leave an animal in a closed vehicle when outside temperatures
exceed 70 degrees.
Are you traveling to pet friendly locations? I have found some cities almost
hostile if traveling with your dog. As an example, Santa Fe, NM, rates amongst
the worst. I couldn't find a place to let me eat outdoors with my dog. I
couldn't find a shady place to park my car. I was starving and needed a
restroom. Thank goodness I was just passing through.
I have found Aspen, CO to be amongst the best, with wonderful pet friendly hotels,
stores and banks that welcome well-behaved dogs with a treat ready when you arrive;
what could be better? There are many restaurants where you can eat outside with
your dog. They will even bring them a bowl of water.
If you need to leave your
dog behind there are many wonderful pet sitters that will care for your dog in
your home. There are also many fabulous pet resorts you can take your dog.
Remember, your dog may have more fun staying home.
Get Prepared.
Has your dog flown in a
plane before? If not, start
getting him used to his pet carrier. Make a game of it. Carry him around in his
carrier bag on your shoulder. Does the bag have wheels? Wheel him around so he
isn't shrieking in the airport from the sound of the wheels. Wheel him on
different surfaces. Airports have carpets, tile, escalators and elevators; get
him as comfortable as possible. Test the wheels ahead of time with your dog's
weight. If necessary, put a little oil on the wheels if they are squealing.
Is your dog traveling in
cargo? Get him used to his crate. Make your reservations during the coolest
part of the day. Try to have a direct flight even if that requires you to
travel by car to a different airport. Your dog will thank you for it. Confirm
the largest crate allowed if traveling with a large dog. We Aussie people don't
have that worry but if you also own a large dog it can be a concern. If
transferring to another plane, make sure the second flight has the same rules
as the first.
Is this a car trip? Does he like to go on car trips? Get him used to it. Start
taking short trips of just a few minutes a day and gradually build up to an
hour. Make it fun; bring treats and give him positive rewards. If you will be
using a crate, put the dog in the crate. If you are using a barrier to keep him
from the front seat, make sure you have it in place. Have your travel training
simulate how your actual trip will be.
 Photo Courtesy of Thecla Harper "Cody and Friend"
Stay Safe.
On a plane make sure you are
using an airline-approved bag. There is no time to correct mistakes once you
get to the airport. Some airlines have size and weight restrictions for dogs. I
have provided you with links below to check out your airlines' policies. Make
sure you have a reservation for your dog. Only so many dogs are allowed in
coach and first class. Prices vary but expect about $75 each way.
I like to check on the size
of my plane ahead of time. The easiest way is to call and ask. This way I can
learn which seats have the most space under them. I've come to love middle
seats. The aisle usually has less space under the seats sometimes by as much as
half of the space! Window seats can get extra hot or cold. The heating and
cooling mechanisms seem to be along the floors of the window seats. If my dog
gets sick or I need to get up it's easier to get past one person rather than
two. First class seats can be
tricky because of the boxes under the seats for airplane equipment. Call your
airline early and ask about the seats while the seat selection is available.
If traveling by car, buckle up. Why not use a crate? You will be surprised how
much dogs like them.
Your dog should always be restrained. There are safety harnesses that you can
attach to the seat belt. This gives the dog some mobility. There are booster
seats that also attach to the seat belts and the dogs can ride in those. Some
are made big enough to accommodate two small dogs. You can also get barriers
for your car, either mesh or metal to keep your dog in a selected area of the
car. These can be excellent for multiple dogs or larger dogs.
 Photo Courtesy Of Sally Balch "We're Parked!"
You know how hot it gets when the sun is beating in your window; make sure that
isn't happening to your dog. Also make sure if you have him in a crate in the
rear of the car that cool air from the air conditioner can get to him.
If traveling in RVs, make sure you pet-proof them. Make sure everything
is properly stowed and nothing can roll around. You don't want the dog flying
through the air in a crate nor do you want something not stowed properly flying
through the air and hurting you or your dog. It's amazing how many people will
cut in front of you because they think your RV can stop on a dime.
Pit Stops.
If traveling by plane, make sure your dog visits a nice grassy area before
getting to the airport or even at the airport. Many airports now provide pet
relief areas. Allow yourself a few extra minutes so you don't stress out your
animal. If your dog has never gone
"potty" on concrete don't expect him to do it on your day of travel.
Tuck a "potty" pad or two in
your bag. If your flight is delayed you can take him out in a restroom and
hopefully he will use the pad. It's great to cross train your dog to use those
pads. I also take a plastic
grocery bag. Once I was transporting a puppy for a friend and the puppy had
serious diarrhea on the plane. I was able to rinse him off in the restroom and
tie the dirty "potty" pad in the grocery bag so it didn't smell up the plane.
Once you land put him on a
leash and get him outdoors. It usually takes almost 30 minutes for you to get
your luggage so let your dog relieve himself while you wait.
When traveling by car, I do not like to use the rest areas for my dogs. I
actually prefer nice grassy areas at gas stations. They are cleaner with less
dog doo scattered all over the place and I think possibly healthier dogs are
there or perhaps less of them. I have no statistics to back this up. I also
travel alone so I like how well lighted the gas stations are which gives me a
feeling of security.
Stop every few hours. It's
good for the dog and good for your body to take a break and stretch. You may
think you are adding time to your trip but you will actually be feeling better and
more alert. You will be a safer driver and able to travel farther if you take
more breaks.
Pack For Your Dog.
Your dog is going to need
his own bag and supplies. I make a list and start packing his things a few days
early.
Water-Make sure it's whatever he is currently drinking. If he drinks your tap
water, buy a few empty gallon containers and fill them with your tap water.
Changes in water can cause diarrhea. Ask your vet for medication to take along
on trip in case he gets diarrhea.
Food-Make sure you take
enough food so you don't have to switch food midway through your trip. Be
mindful if your food requires refrigeration.
I always take a pet first-aid kit. They usually have something for tick
removal, as well as just about anything you can need for a small emergency.
I take bottle of carpet cleaner just in case of an accident in the hotel room.
I take a clean king size sheet to throw on the top of the bed so my dog doesn't
get the hotel bedding dirty and also to hopefully prevent him from getting bed
mites.
I also like to take a spray bottle of Febreeze. Strangely, some pet friendly
hotels will only allow animals in smoking rooms. If you didn't book ahead and
have the great misfortune of having this as your only option, Febreeze actually
helps a lot. It also masks any smells you may leave behind.
I take a few extra towels just in case I need to wash him off. I bring a big
garbage bag just in case the dog gets sick in his crate. I can seal it up until
I get to a laundromat without the smell destroying the car. I take a little of
my laundry detergent in a bag so I don't have to pay triple at the laundromat
and risk my dog being allergic to a new product. Does your dog have a favorite
pillow at home? Just toss it in the car to make him more comfortable in the
hotel.
Paperwork To Take With You.
You must have available a current health certificate for your pet available
during interstate travel. You may need proof of a rabies vaccination along with
the health certificate when entering some states, like California. Make sure you travel with your vaccine history.
Make sure your dog wears a collar with ID and contact information during your
travels.
We hate to think of accidents happening but we need to be prepared. I put my
pet's veterinary history, proof of vaccinations, medications and my vet's
contact information along with my emergency contact information in a clear fed
ex envelope, which is taped to the side of my dog crate. Put it somewhere where
you won't be covering it up. I take my crates into the hotel so, if I had an
emergency in the hotel, the staff would know what to do with my dog.
Tell your vet where you are going. I live at an altitude of 8500 feet and don't
worry about fleas. We have the
great fortune of not having much Lyme's disease or Heartworm problems. If
traveling to areas where your animal may have additional health risks, consult
with your vet and make sure you have your dog protected.
In certain states or cities
there are mandatory spay/neuter laws. If your unaltered dog should get loose in these localities, you may face
fines with possible unwanted surgery on your dog. Be careful, especially in Kentucky.
If your dog has an emergency you'll want to get him to the nearest vet. If you
have a choice you may want to look for one accredited by the American Animal
Hospital Association.
AAA offers the publication, Traveling With Your Pet: The AAA PetBook, which is available
at your local AAA office. This book lists more than 13,000
animal-friendly AAA approved hotels and campgrounds, as well as pet-accessible
attractions, animal hospitals, and much more. You'll also find tips on
preparing for car and airline travel, both domestic and international.
Little Extras.
I have never drugged my dogs to fly or travel. Once in awhile I have used
Rescue Remedy and I also found this:
Calm Your Dog...Naturally!
Synergy Labs Richard's Organics Pet Calm for Dogs can be used to settle nerves
and reduce hyperactivity prior to travel, grooming, introduction to new
environments or other stressful situations. $6.59 At www.PetFoodDirect.comon Sale Now!
If you are out hiking with your dog or visiting, I love travel water bowls that
fold up flat. Check out:
Your Dog will Look Like a Seasoned Traveler
Handsome. Durable. Collapsible. The Kurgo Pet Travel Wander Water Bowl is made
with authentic seat belt material plus a double-ply waterproof interior.
Quality crafted to last for years and look great every time you use it. $12.99 www.PetFoodDirect.comon Sale Now!
This is a link to one of the barriers I mentioned for your car. Be aware that in
California you can get a rather hefty fine for your dog traveling in your lap.
What Rides in the Back Seat, STAYS in the Back Seat!
Dogs moving around freely in cars are a safety hazard to themselves, the
driver, and the passengers. The Kurgo Pet Travel Back Seat Barrier keeps
everyone safe by creating a strong wall between the front and back seats of the
car. $41.99 www.PetFoodDirect.com on Sale Now!
Aussie ears can be vulnerable to sunburn which can lead to cancer. I learned
the hard way after having a cancerous lesion removed from Emme's ear. I've
started using Jurlique sunscreen, which has fewer toxic ingredients for people
and animals. I'm sure you can check with your vet for other sunscreen
suggestions.
Air Travel Links.
To make sure your air travel plans involving your pet go smoothly, you should
always understand the airlines' current policies. Below are the links to the
major airlines' pet policies. Take a look at your favorite airline before you
make your reservations.
As of July 16, 2010, the partnership between AirTran Airways and Frontier
Airlines will end. Midwest Airlines and Frontier Airlines were purchased by Republic
Air Holding's Inc.. United and
Continental have now merged.
With mergers and changes happening faster
than we can groom our dogs be wise and check before traveling.
AirTran Airways (ONLY SMALL PETS ALLOWED ™|
CABIN ONLY)
AirTran
Alaska
Air
Alaska Air
American
Airlines
American Air
Continental
Airlines
Continental Air
Delta
Airlines
Delta Airlines
Frontier
Airlines
Frontier Airlines
Midwest
Express
Midwest Airlines
Southwest
Airlines (ONLY SMALL PETS ALLOWED ™| CABIN ONLY)
Southwest Airlines
Spirit
Airlines
Spirit Airlines
US
Airways (ONLY SMALL PETS ALLOWED ™| CABIN ONLY)
US Airways
United
Airlines
United AirlinesIn The US, Frontier now lets small dogs fly in the cabin with the owners again.For the complete article and more info, click here:
FRONTIER PETS
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Fading Puppies Syndrome-Homeopathic Preparation
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ATI does not endorse any company. We do want to let you know, when we learn of something in the market place that may be helpful. You should always consult with your Veterinarian before using any new product.
The Fading Puppies Syndrome
HOMEOPATHIC PREPARATION
Richard Croft the originator of the Fading Puppies Remedy
developed the product over many years, based on observation
and trying over 800 combination's. It has been used for over 30
years in Europe and has treated tens of thousands of puppies and
kittens successfully.
Puppies that fade can do so for a variety of reasons. This could
be why some fade out in the first few hours and some may go at
two weeks. The Fading Puppy Remedy takes into account the
majority of reasons why pups fade, giving it a very High success
rate.
Dosage to the puppies from birth: As a preventative 2 drops
twice daily if they look normal for two to three weeks. If there is
any
deterioration in the puppies use a higher dosage- - 4 drops half
hourly or hourly for about eight to twelve hours in every 24 hours.
The dosage relies very much on how the puppies are responding,
so give more or less as you think best. All litters of puppies are
not the
same so you may see some variations in the response to the remedy.
One sign is a tendency to " puff and blow" a little. In this case cut
the
dosage in half. NOTE: For premature toy puppies that weigh under 3
ounces dilute the remedy one drop to three drops of pure water.
Then give a single drop per dose.
Puppies that are being bottle fed or supplemented can be given
Fading Puppy Remedy as it will also help the digestive system. Give
it
after dewclaw removal and tail docking to allay trauma.
The Fading remedy will improve the milk of the bitch and the
dosage of half a teaspoon can be given once or twice a day,
regardless
of the size of the bitch. Homeopathy is not dosed by weight.
The Remedy can be given to the bitch during whelping for cases
of exhaustion.
To help prevent Fading Puppy Syndrome, it is recommended to give
the remedy from the time of mating at half a teaspoon daily. This is
particularly good for bitches with a history of losses. There are
advantages
though, even if the bitch has had no history. The puppies are more
robust
and even in size. The remedy should not be given on food, as this
stops it
from having a good effect. The remedy is in a sucrose solution, so it
is highly
palatable. If there is any difficulty in administration, it can be
put in a saucer
with one or two teaspoons of milk or honey. Or use a syringe.
The first few hours are critical in keeping puppies going. Heat is
very
important.
Storage: Remedies should be stored in a cool, dry place away from
light.
Can safely be refrigerated in hot climates. Keep away from pungent
odors
and electronic appliances. ( microwave; computer, etc.)
60 ml. ... $ 26.00http://www.naturalrearing.com/coda/p_fading_puppy.html |
More Vaccine Info
|
ATI will be purchasing this tape for our lending library. If you are not a member or would like a copy of this fabulous DVD please click on the link.
The DVD of the Safe Pet event held March 2010, will be ready soon. There's a sign up at www.dogs4dogs.com/saferpet for more information. You will hear the presentation given by Jean Dodds, DVM which includes, the Q & A on that day, the Q & A from the 2009 Rabies Challenge Fund event plus Dr. Dodds presentation on thyroid disease. All proceeds benefit the Rabies Challenge Fund.
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Photos, Photos, Photos
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Photo Courtesy of Tracy Nelson "Pretty In Pink"
Photo Courtesy of Pamela Levy "Water"
Photo Courtesy of Cindy and Eric Kalman "Posh"
Photo Courtesy of Pam Reinert "Ellie and Friend"
Photo Courtesy of Pamela Levy "Alfie and Zeta at Camp Gone To The Dogs"
Photo Courtesy of Barb Sayler "Taddy"
Photo Courtesy of Christine Donahue "Tillie"
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Chef's Corner with Cheryl Mechalke
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Salmon Cakes for Dogs Photo Courtesy of Cheryl Mechalke
You don't have to have a Portuguese Water Dog or a Chesapeake Bay Retriever to make these salmon cakes for dogs. Even your little land lover will appreciate the delicious salmon and the yogurt tartar sauce.
While your dog gobbles up these salmon dog treats, you'll love that they are receiving the health benefits of salmon, such as the goodness of fish oil for dogs, the high amount of protein, vitamin D and the Omega 3 fatty acids.
Ingredients:
Salmon Cakes
1 14.75 oz can of wild Alaskan salmon
2 egg whites
1/4 cup sour cream, low or fat free
2 tsp. dried parsley
1/2 cup carrot, shredded
1/2 cup plain bread crumbs
1 tsp. dried dill weed
Yogurt Tartar Sauce
1/4 cup plain yogurt, low or fat free
1/2 tsp. dried dill weed
Photo Courtesy of Dog Treat Kitchen
Instructions:
Salmon Cakes
1. Preheat oven to 375° F
2. Drain liquid from salmon. Remove bones and skin, if any.
3. In a medium bowl, mix together salmon and next four ingredients (through shredded carrot).
4. In a separate shallow dish, mix together the plain bread crumbs and dill weed.
5. Using a cookie scooper, scoop one ball and lightly flatten into a patty form.
6. Dredge or thoroughly coat the patty in the bread crumb mixture.
7. Place on a lightly greased cookie sheet.
8. Repeat until there is no more salmon mixture.
9. Bake for 12 minutes. Then flip and bake for 12 more minutes.
10. Cool completely on a wire rack before serving.
Yogurt Tartar Sauce
11. Mix together yogurt and dried dill weed.
12. Cover and refrigerate until salmon cakes are cool.
Storing & Yield: Any dog treat recipe with meat should be served quickly. We recommend one week in the refrigerator. You can freeze these salmon cakes for 2 months. If you are using a 1" cookie scoop, this recipe should make 2 dozen salmon dog treats.
Tips & Techniques:
Be sure to drain the salmon very well. Otherwise the mixture will be too moist and will not hold together. If you have already combined the salmon mixture and it is not holding together, add one tablespoon of plain bread crumbs at a time, until the mixture stays together.
To save time you can use pre-shredded carrots.
If your dog needs or prefers softer treats, you can bake the cakes for 10 minutes on each side.
The fresh catch of the day, the smell of salt water and the feel of sand beneath your toes: remember fun days at the beach as you make these delicious salmon cakes for dogs.
Courtesy of http://www.dogtreatkitchen.com/cakes-for-dogs.html
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Fleas and Ticks
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Photo Courtesy Of Pamela Levy
Fleas and ticks can be dangerous disease carriers. Fleas can carry tapeworms and ticks can carry the bacteria that cause Lyme disease. And, of course, there's the discomfort fleas can cause your pet (and you)! If your pet is allergic, that discomfort can be considerable - leading to open sores and infection.
Today, there are numerous options to kill fleas and to prevent them from coming back. But, how do you know which product is best for your pet? How do you deal with a flea problem if it occurs? Hopefully, this information will shed some light on ways to keep your pet as healthy as possible by letting you in on some useful information on the nasty "bugs of summer."
The best way to manage fleas (and ticks for that matter) is by prevention. Preventative flea control has been made possible by new product innovations and insights into flea biology. We now know that adult fleas (the biting stage) spend virtually their entire life on the pet, not in the carpet. Eggs are laid on the fur and fall off into carpeting, beneath furniture cushions, and wherever else the pet lies, sleeps or spends time. After hatching, the eggs transform into larvae, pupae, and eventually adults to renew the cycle. There are a variety of products including topicals, oral pills, collars, and sprays that can help treat adult fleas and prevent new eggs from hatching.
Topical treatments are perhaps the easiest and most common method of preventing fleas. They are easy to use and usually last for one month making treatments less stressful and relatively safe. Topical medications usually come in small vials that contain oily liquid which is applied to your pet's skin between the shoulder blades. The active ingredients are taken up by the oil glands in the skin which distributes the medication so that it will be effective against fleas on any part of the pet's body. Many topical medications are also available in combination's that will protect against ticks (i.e., Frontline/Frontline Plus), mosquitoes (i.e., Advantix for dogs), and heartworm disease (i.e., Revolution/Advantage Multi). Many of these products are capable of killing adult fleas and preventing eggs from hatching.
In order for these products to be effective and safe, it is important to make sure you are using the correct product for your pet's species and weight. Using a dog product on a cat and vice versa can be dangerous and ineffective.
Today's customers are also interested in natural products that are available to help address flea and tick issues. These products typically do not contain pyrethrins or other chemicals (which may be harmful if swallowed or inhaled). A product line called Natural Chemistry, for example, works by attacking the physical structure of the flea or pest by dissolving the waxy protective coating on the surface of the pest's body. This allows a lethal dose of laxative to be delivered to the pest which results in death. Other natural products on the market may work differently. You should always speak with your veterinarian before choosing any flea/tick product for your pet to make sure what you are using is safe and effective.
There are also a number of pills that can be given orally to help combat fleas. Many of these products contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) that prevent flea eggs from hatching. Examples of pills include Sentinel and Program. Sentinel also contains ingredients that can prevent heartworm disease. These products will prevent future fleas but will not kill the adult fleas if they are already present. The only exception to this is Capstar which will kill the adult fleas but will not prevent future flea eggs from hatching.
If your pet already has fleas, it is important to realize that treating the animal alone will not be enough to solve the problem. Since there are hundreds of eggs still present in the environment even after the adult fleas die, addressing the environment will be necessary. Use professional flea foggers and sprays for hard-to-reach spots, following manufacturer directions.
Clean the flea eggs out of your house by vacuuming several times in a week. Tape the vacuum bags shut and throw them away. It is also important to wash any objects that your pet comes into contact with regularly. Do not be surprised if you still see some adult fleas present for up to two weeks after successful treatment. These "survivors" are probably newly emerged adults which have not yet succumbed to the insecticide.
It is important to speak with your veterinarian to make sure you are using a product that is safe and effective for your pet and their needs. Good flea and tick control is an essential part of every pet's preventative health plan and is vital to achieving optimal general health. By Wendy Zimmerman DVM, CVA www.PetFoodDirect.com
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Juniors by Theresa Goiffon
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Photo's Courtesy of Satu Virtanen Satu with
"Vire" Surely Can Buy My Love
Australian Terrier, Junior Handler,
Satu Virtanen.
Satu Virtanen, is 19 years old. She is a
former Junior Handler and is from a little town called Hollola. Which is
approximately one hundred kilometers to the north of the capital of Finland,
Helsinki. Among her Aussie-friends
she is also called "pikku-Satu" (means
little-Satu) because she came to this breed with her "mentor" Mrs.
Satu Harden (kennel Surely) when she was fifteen.
What made you interested
in showing dogs?
I can always
blame my friends who were interested junior handling before me. A breeder of my friends Bichon Frise
introduced this interest to my friend who then told me about showing dogs.
For some years
I followed my friends career of junior handling and then I somehow decided to
join them.
How did you get started in Junior
Showmanship? Was it easy or difficult for you?
It seemed to be
difficult, because I didn't have that kind of dog. At home we had Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, a lazy boy,
not a show dog. I trained with my friends' dogs and competed with borrowed
dogs. Then I met the Aussie breeders in an unofficial show, I got to know
them and their dogs that's how it began for me.
Why did you choose the Australian
Terrier breed to show?
Aussie's are a
wonderful show dog! They are energetic, happy, self-confident, very showy
with the right temperament. It's a well-known breed here in Finland
(nowadays) but never the most popular junior handling dog, which, I think, is
a good thing if you want to stand out from the group.
What did or do you enjoy about showing
as a Junior Handler?
This is a very
difficult question. It must have something to do with my passion for
competing. Handling was always an easy dog interest for someone who doesn't
have a dog at home (like many of my friends). I would also say that handling
is very challenging interest. You'll never be "ready" because
there's so many breeds to show and so many dog persons to learn to handle.
Handling consist of so many little details which all have to work correctly
to make a perfect show, and of course, the dog is always a person! I have
always enjoyed the time before the ring, watching other competitors
performances and meeting friend from the other cities.
What did or do
you like about showing the Aussie Terrier?
Aussies are
happy! Many of them are waging their tails almost all the time. (You can see
it very easily here in Finland, where we don't dock the tails). Aussies take
contact to their handler, they like to show themselves. They are small dogs (dogs
to put on the table in the shows) but still very good and quiet fast movers
which I have always loved! In Finland we have many ways to handle the Aussie "right", not
just one, which makes it easier for handler to find a suitable way for handler.
The Australian
terriers get on with other dogs better than most of the terriers, and with
people of course. I have never had problems to give an Aussie handled by myself
to swap-dog to some strange handler in the competition.
How old were
you when you started showing as a Junior Handler?
The very first
time in the ring was maybe 2003 when I was thirteen, I competed with our
Cavalier on local club show of Cavaliers and if I'm not mistaken I was placed
3rd? But I really started to compete when I was fifteen.
What is your favorite part of
Junior Handling
I love almost
every part! Maybe not traveling, when it means sitting hours and hours in
the car going somewhere in Finland. The competition of course and the time I
spend with the dog while other competitors are showing their owns. Meeting
other juniors, I have many friends around the country with this interest.
What is your
least favorite part of Junior Showmanship?
Rushing to the
ring! I hate if I'm late and I have to hurry to go to the ring. I need my
little time with the dog before the ring. Also, the last check-out before our
turn.
 "Milli" CH
Surely Mad About You
Do you foresee
becoming a Professional Handler someday, if so will you still show the
Australian Terrier breed or other breed/breeds?
Well, this is
easy question for me! I'm too old for junior things (over 17-years-old). Yes,
I will and I show Australian Terriers nowadays in the real show ring. Of
course I like to be professional someday, but here in Finland we don't have
same kind of culture in pro-handling like
you have in the USA or for example in Russian. But I'm always ready to handle when it's needed! Breed doesn't matter to me, I like to
learn to handle new breeds too.
Are your family and friends supportive
of your interest? What do they think about you showing dogs?
My family (mom
and dad) have never understand this interest. Dad used to drive me to the
competitions around southern Finland and mom always asked "How did
it go, did you get prizes?" But the real meaning of the shows was never
clear to them. My friends who also are interested in dogs and shows have been
very supportive! We have tried
to train each other to become better and better telling each other what we
did wrong and what we could do better.
How many hours a week do you think you
spend training your dog?
This sounds
weird to my ears. I can't answer that! I used to train with our Cavalier
sometimes. During my junior handling years I went to local handling practicing,
and unofficial shows where I tested myself. I never compete with my own dogs,
so this is difficult to say. Many times I met my Aussie some hours before the
ring, get to know the person, then straight to the competitions! Of course I have my favorite Aussies
with who I competed many times with success.
Do you groom
your dog yourself?
No I don't. I
learned to handle before grooming, and I'm still learning to groom Aussies!
Huge thanks to my breeder friends who groom their Aussies for me to compete
with!
If you had one
or more Aussie Terriers, do you have a favorite, if so, what makes that dog
special to you?
Right now I
have one Australian Terrier co-owned with her breeder, Mrs. Satu Harden.
"Vire" Surely Can Buy My Love is now 1 1/2 years old red bitch. At
home I have also a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel male.
As you can count, I never competed
with Vire in junior handling, I got her after my career. During my junior
years I have some favorite Aussies. "Pultti" CH Melukylän
Gangsteripimu (bred by Mrs. Kirsi Ola, owned by Satu Harden) was the one of
the kind. With her I started my career and we succeeded many times! She was
always just a lovely person, she loved show herself, was always happy and
waging her long tail! I'm sure there will never be another Aussie like her.
Another
special was young boy "Rio" CH Reimin Special Edition (bred by Mrs.Krista
Riihelä, owned by breeder and Mrs.Henna Laine). I trained Rio when he was
young, we also had a very great time. He was so happy, jumping, and got along
very well with other dogs! All
of my friends have always love these two dogs too.
Is Junior Showmanship something you
would recommend to your friends, why or why not?
Absolutely!
You will find friends, get good advice and practicing for the future, a nice
hobby with your dog!
Do you envision yourself being a breeder someday or is the
show ring of more interest to you?
Exactly, I
went to the "breeder course" last spring 2009. It's course for those who
wanted to become breeders and get the official "kennel name". The Finnish
Kennel Club requires this course to be done before you can register puppies
under your kennel name. Well, I still haven't asked for my kennel name.. but
maybe someday when I'm older, wiser and so on!
But to be
honest the shows have always been more interesting, I love handling much much
more right now. Perhaps those daydreams of breeding are just dreams. But you
never know!
If you don't show Aussies anymore, but
still show in Juniors, can you tell me what breed you prefer to show and why you are
no longer showing Aussie Terriers?
When I was
still junior, I competed a couple of times with other breeds. Some other Terriers,
Poodles, Retrievers and Spaniels. But none of them could beat the
Australian Terrier, my only love.
What advice would you give to someone
new wanting to show as a Junior handler?
Take the time
to follow competitions, how other handlers do their performances. Pay
attention to the judge, and other competitors. Never treat the dogs as a
"tool" for wins, it's your pet, friend and partner, don't let it down! Make sure that dog has fun too during
the competition. Believe in yourself as a handler, but always show the dog -
not yourself!
What are you doing now Satu?
After my
junior handling years, I have still been working with juniors. In our local
youth section I'm training young and adult handlers for shows. Every year I
organize a dog handler service at an international dog show in Lahti, our
hometown. Every summer I'm teaching handling and other dog stuff to
youngsters, age 10 to 17 at our summer camp.
I've also been
course for ring stewards. A couple
of weeks ago I was invited to judge junior handler competition! which was
very nice experience. During the year I travel around Finland handling dogs (most of them are Aussies bred & owned by my friends) that is the main
interest and so it will be.
 "Puhti" CH
Surely Sexbomb to BOB "Pultti" CH Melukylän
Gangsteripimu
winning District Championship 1st
I
have gotten to know Satu and I must tell you, she is an exceptional young
woman. As you can see from her
interview, her love for her dogs and for this breed is quite evident. I think the advice she shared with us
is an excellent reminder. Make sure our dogs are always our
focus not ourselves.
What
a great testimony from Satu, who represented our youth so well by sharing her
own Junior Handling experiences in showing the Australian Terrier.
Thank
you Satu for sharing your story. May you continue to enjoy this wonderful
sport of showing dogs.
Until next month...
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Dog Show Countdown
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Shows Closing Wednesday June 2, 2010
Little Fort Kennel
Club Of Waukegan - Friday June 18, 2010
Great Lakes All
Terrier Association - Saturday June 19, 2010
Chain O'lakes
Kennel Club - Sunday June 20, 2010
http://www.royjonesdogshows.com
Shows
Closing Wednesday June 9, 2010
Great Western
Terrier Association Of Southern California - Saturday June 26 and Sunday June 27, 2010
http://www.jbradshaw.com
Photo Courtesy of Dianne Wall "Ozzie"
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Our Amazing Aussie-"Cody" Wilson
| Photo Courtesy of Bonnie Wilson "CODY"
The State of Oklahoma is not known for having Australian Terriers but it is known for severe weather. In the month of May that means tornado's.
Our Australian terrier has already experienced in his short life severe thunderstorms, high winds and several tornado drills. This particular afternoon we went about our preparations for the coming storms. I had the tornado shelter all ready, I fed the dogs dinner at 4:00. I had the dogs outside
letting them go to the bathroom and running around thinking we could be
in the shelter this evening.
As the clouds rolled in and the weather was getting really bad outside, I loaded the family, the geriatric Labrador and went back for last member, Cody our Aussie puppy. I called his name but he didn't come. As the rain whipped up into a frenzy and the hail was about to burst, the tornado siren is going off, I went around the corner and found Cody calmly stuck in the netting of our son's soccer goal. Cody was really wrapped up in the netting; head, legs, feet and all, just wagging his tail.
Calm as could be. The sounds of the siren were not even bothering him.
As the tornado sirens blared I ran back to the house, got my scissors and cut Cody to freedom. I scooped up our completely unaware Aussie pup and took him to the tornado shelter underground. Just as we got to the shelter, the hail
came down full force and fortunately the tornado turned and went around us. I
can attest to the fact that loud noise like hail wrecking havoc on our
windows and roof did not even bother Cody! As, the storm passes and we exited to survey the damage I was reminded why we chose the Australian terrier as a pet.
They are a tough, hardy dog that will always put a smile on your face. Cody ran around the yard playing joyfully with the
golf ball sized hail and loving every minute of it! He was oblivious to the severe weather that just passed and happy to have the family together that stormy May Day.
 Photo Courtesy Of Bonnie Wilson Golf Ball Sized Hail
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Kennel Names by Janet Maas
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What's In A Name?
How you develop your
kennel name can be difficult. It
is always best when it has special meaning to you and ideally you want it to be
easy to remember. The main goal is
recognition, some of the most successful are the easiest to remember. Even though I have not owned an Akita
in 20 years I still know the name of the most successful Akita breeder at that
time - OBJ owned by BJ Andrews. Often the name should be functional enough to cover many interest.
Another trick is to theme
name your litters. At Pat Hastings
seminar the "Tricks of the Trade" she stated "You can get ten years recognition
almost instantly by theme naming your puppies". Some have stories behind their names, others have meanings
and some are created! I originally
wrote this article back in the early 1990's so some of these kennels no longer
exist but their stories are still interesting. I would caution anyone just starting out in Aussies to
thoroughly research the name they desire to use. Imitation may not be the sincerest form of flattery and you
certainly don't want to out and out appropriate someone's kennel name. That is not only in poor
taste but is confusing to people in the breed.
Nancy Dieckmann chose
Adnan as it is a combination of her name and her husbands. She chose it as it reflects the
interaction they have. She says no
matter what she wants to do he has stood in front of her, beside her, or ahead
of her. No matter the situation,
the task, or the job. He is always
there and she feels that nothing would work without him as part of it.
Pamela
Levy said "As my first Aussie matured, I thought she
looked and acted so regal. Her rough made her look like a lioness. I thought
how aristocratic. After she was bred and I needed a kennel name I decided to shorten
aristocratic and ended up with Arista.
Regina Swygert-Smith wrote "Our
kennel name is Bilbrough, the name of a village just outside of the city of
York in England. In the late 1980s, Michael and I ended a long business trip to
London with 2 weeks of driving through northern England and Scotland--this was
pre-terriers so no thought of kennel prefixes, or indeed terriers. By
happenstance, we ended up spending our first night out at one of those
incredibly wonderful English country inns, Bilbrough Manor, where the butler
greeted you on the stone parking lot and took your luggage up to your room. Of
all things, there was a tiny chapel just down the drive that we were directed
to...and what did we find? A large stone tomb for none other than Lord Fairfax,
who "founded" Virginia! That and the extraordinary food--the chef at
Bilbrough Manor had just been named the Outstanding Young Chef of the
Year--assured that we would never forget our stay or the name. (And we returned
at the end of the journey for one more night of luxury.) A year or so later, we
moved to the Virginia countryside from Washington, DC--still without
terriers--and named our little 11 acres of woods, Bilbrough. When our first
litter was born on March 7, 1995, the obvious kennel name was the name of the
property these three little girls were born on."
Terrier
judge, Judy Franklin said, "My first partner in dogs (Miniature Schnauzers at the time and later we added the Kerrys and Smooths) was from Ireland, Maureen
Thomann. She wanted to name it
after a small flowering tree in Ireland, the Blackthorn - the wood is used to
make shillelaghs and the flowers
to make sloe gin! We both thought
it very fitting for Terriers! Think bar brawls!"
Grace
Cartwright is fairly new to breeding dogs but has a wonderful story for her
kennel name. "I got a little
red boy from Sabine Baker (Aussome Aussies) after Hurricane Isabel. We were cleaning up all the debris and
had a burn pit going. It was the first day that little guy was at the my house
and it was late. The fire had burned down to just coals and it was time to go
in for the night. I called him
"Puppy, puppy, puppy" to get him to follow us in. He made a beeline
directly for us, right through the firepit! Freaking out, I picked him up and
checked him for injury. Not a blister or singed hair in sight! Thus the name of
my kennel was born "Firewalker" and we called him
"Flame". He is the foundation stud for my kennel."
Kim
Floyd answered, "several years ago my children, John and Amanda, were raising
and showing exotic birds. Filling out the entry forms became very cumbersome so
we combined the names and started using Johmanda's Aviary. The kids and birds are now gone but the
name worked so well for the bird shows that I decided to continue to use it as
a screen name and now a 'kennel' name."
Ulla-Britt
Norgren told this story, "I had
my kennel name, Vitterklippens, planned out from the very beginning. I never
even considered anything else.The
name Vitterklippens kennel really means
the kennel from Vitterklippen. Vitterklippen is one of the small mountains we
have behind our house. I fell for the name since Vitterklippen refers to an old
folk's tale. In Sweden we used to believe in vittra, a small people, a kind of
hobgoblin, who lived beneath the ground and could be quite malicious when
feeling slighted. Klippen is an older Swedish word for a small mountain or a
cliff. The mixing of folk tale and geographical location was something I felt
appealing.
From
Australia all breed judge Patricia McLeod wrote "Mine is Tighgum. It was supposedly the
original aboriginal name for Cabbage Tree Creek. The creek formed the rear
boundary of our property in Aspley, Brisbane. I believe it was the native word
for the lawyer cane vine which they used to make baskets."
An
Australian Kennel of old had an interesting story.
When
I asked Mel McMurry she told me the wonderful story behind Bearstep. She grew up in Arizona riding horses
and was met and befriended by a Shoshoni Indian Chief. Chief Bearstep raised Appaloosas and
taught Mel about horses. In
addition to being an artist he was the model for many pictures of an Indian
Chief sitting atop an Appaloosa. He always insisted Mel call him Pap Bear. About the time she started breeding
dogs he passed away. He was such a
great influence she wanted to honor him my naming her dogs Bearstep.
Last,
my own. I started out over 20
years ago with an Akita. I wanted
something similar but smaller and started researching Shiba Inu. At the time I worked for a Japanese
company and was reading the biography of the founder of Sony. Sony was a "made up" word that meant
nothing in any language. That
appealed to me. I combined Akita and Shiba and came up with Akiba and at that
time could not find any reference to it in any language. Years later I found the name in a
Rhodesian Ridgeback pedigree and discovered it was Swahili and its meaning was
to save and reserve for the future or renewal. I thought that was still kind of cool and since I had visited
Africa and loved it I thought it kind of fit. Thanks to the Internet today I have learned it is also
Japanese slang for "geek"!
Please share your Kennel name meaning or history and we will print it.
info@AustralianTerrierInternational.org
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AKC Gazette's Are Now Online
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Legislation Changes - Know Your Laws
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New
Orleans City Council Adopts A Mandatory Spay/Neuter and
Microchipping
UPDATE: The New Orleans City Council unanimously adopted an
ordinance on May 6th, establishing spay/neuter requirements as well as
permits for intact dogs.
The Issue.
The New Orleans City Council has introduced an ordinance
establishing spay/neuter requirements as well as permits for intact
dogs.
The Impact.
The proposed ordinance would require owners or keepers to
spay/neuter all dogs over six months old. Owners or keepers would be
allowed to obtain an "intact dog permit" if the owner or keeper chooses
not to spay/neuter from the Louisiana Society for the Prevention of
Cruelty to Animals. In order to obtain a permit an owner or keeper must
submit a permit application to the Society, pay an initial $10 permit
application fee plus the $20 annual permit fee. The annual renewal fee
for permits will be $20 and is due by January 1st of each
year. In order for the Society to grant an intact dog permit, owners or
keepers must submit adhere to the following conditions:
Submit the appropriate forms and fees as required by the Society,
including a written description of the dog, a photo of the dog and a
photo of the dogs living conditions;
Proof the dog has been microchipped (i.e. include the registered
microchip number on the application);
Proof of current vaccinations for rabies, distemper and parvo virus;
Not allow female dogs to breed before reaching 18 months old;
Not allow female dogs to have more than one litter per year;
If a permit is permitted, owners or keepers must display the permit
number when advertising puppies for sale/adoption; and
No animal under six weeks old may be sold, given away or adopted.
The ordinance also provides fines for those who fail to comply with
the permit requirements listed above. Fines for a first violation can
be up to $100 per dog, second violation up to $250 per dog and a third
violation would result in impoundment and fines of up to $500 per dog.
If a permit is not renewed on time, permittees will be subject to a
$10 per day late fee and if not renewed within 15 days of the annual
expiration a first violation will be issued.
Exemptions to obtaining permits include:
The dog is under six months;
A licensed veterinarian certifies that the dog should not be
spayed/neutered for a specific health reason. The certificate must
include the veterinarian's license number and the date by which the dog
may be spayed/neutered, if ever.
The dog has been present in New Orleans for less than 30 days;
The owner has obtained, or submitted an application for, an intact
dog permit; or
The dog is used by a government or law enforcement entity for
government, rescue, law enforcement or other purposes.
Dog Breeders To Face Fee Changes
in Louisiana
UPDATE: HB 313 passed the Senate on May 24th and will be sent to
Governor for signature.
The Issue:
Louisiana House Bill 313 changes dog kennel license fee levels
set forth in current law from a maximum fee to a minimum fee, therefore
allowing a municipality or parish to set fees as high as they wish.
The Impact:
Current Louisiana law states that owners or keepers of five or more
dogs must obtain a kennel license and pay a kennel license fee.
Presently, the governing body of each municipality or parish is
permitted to set the amount for the annual kennel license fee at not
more than $15 if a person has no more than five dogs over the age of six
months, $25 for five to 10 dogs, and $30 for more than 10 dogs.
House Bill 313 would eliminate language in that statute making
these fee levels the maximum which could be charged, and instead set
such fee levels as the minimum to be charged. By changing the language
and removing the cap, there would be a limit on how high governing
bodies of municipalities and parishes would be allowed to raise the
individual fee levels.
Illinois Amends Humane Care
For Animals Act To Include Tethering
UPDATE: SB 2580 passed the Senate on April 8th and currently sits
in the House Committee on Agriculture & Conservation awaiting
committee action. The Issue. Illinois Senate Bill 2580 proposes to amend the state "Humane Care
for Animals Act" by adding tethering guidelines. The Impact. This legislation defines "tether" as "to restrain a dog by tying it
to any object or structure, including without limitation a house, tree,
fence, post, garage, shed, or clothes line, by any means, including
without limitation a chain, rope, cord, leash, or running line". The Act would be amended by restricting that a dog may be tethered
outdoors only if all of the following requirements are met:
The dog must be visible to the responsible party; The dog must be tethered in such a manner as to prevent injury,
including strangulation; The dog must be at least six months of age; The dog must not suffer from illness or injury that is exacerbated
by being tethered; The dog must have access at all times to drinking water, shelter,
and a dry surface; If multiple dogs are tethered on the same property, each dog must be
tethered separately, and each dog must have a separate food and water
bowl. Each dog must also have access to separate shelter. If multiple
dogs are tethered, sufficient space must be placed between the leads to
ensure that the leads do not tangle; The lead must not exceed one-eighth of the dog's body weight and
must not be made of a tow chain or log chain, which is any chain that is
more than one-quarter of an inch in width; The lead must be 15 feet or longer in length. The lead must be attached to the dog by a properly-fitting collar
and must not wrap directly around the dog's neck. Pinch, prong, or
choke-type collars shall not be used to tether a dog; and The length and location of the lead must prevent the dog from moving
outside of its owner's property.
Also, even if the above requirements are met it shall be unlawful
to tether a dog outdoors:
between the hours of 10 p.m. and 6 a.m.; and during extreme weather conditions, including conditions in which a
heat or wind chill advisory or a severe weather warning has been issued
for the jurisdiction by the National Weather Service.
Any person found in violation of these requirements is guilty of a
Class A misdemeanor. A second or subsequent violation is a Class 4
felony with every day that a violation continues constituting a separate
offense. If the convicted person is a juvenile or a companion animal
hoarder, the court must order the convicted person to undergo a
psychological or psychiatric evaluation and to undergo treatment that
the court determines to be appropriate after due consideration of the
evaluation.
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Nightclub
for Pooches Opens in New York
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NOW WE HAVE HEARD IT ALL! THINKING OF VISITING NEW YORK?
 Photo Courtesy Of Cheryl Mechalke
By GINGER ADAMS OTIS
Manhattan mutts
will soon have a place to shake their tails on a Friday night -- the
Fetch Club.
The 3,000-foot indoor dog park/canine club slated
to open next month in the heart of the Financial District will be
tricked out with sybaritic amenities synonymous with Wall Street:
special spa baths, holistic mud masks and facials, homemade meals,
manicures -- and even a doggie disco.
"If an owner wants to go
out one night, they can drop their dog off at our nightclub," said owner
Peter Balestrieri, who hopes to even outfit the doggie dance club with a
disco ball.
"We're serious about the well-being of animals, but we also want
them to have fun," said co-owner Jenna Lee, a former finance worker now
taking veterinary courses.
The more sedate canines can swing by
Fetch Club during the day for playtime (chasing tennis balls), movie
hour (classics like "101 Dalmatians" and "Lassie"), trot on a tiny
treadmill (that has a TV), or just play on the 3,000-foot dog run in the
back of the massive space -- for $35 a day.
Inside the
renovated space at 85 John St. -- a 200-year-old former tobacco factory
-- will be a high-end boutique with doggie clothes and toys, plus a
"human lounge" where owners can grab a coffee, use an iPad to check
e-mail, and watch their pampered pooches play.
"The dogs are
our clients, so all our services are geared to them," said Lee, who
plans to offer daily homemade entrées to owners who don't want their
dogs eating commercial pet food.
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The Aging Aussie Part 3 by Heather Rife
| This 3 part series was written by Heather Rife, DVM and
reflects her experiences in over 25 years of veterinary medicine. She graduated
from Kansas State University in 1985 and owns her veterinary clinic in East
Haven, Connecticut. The articles reflect her experiences and opinions
only. We recommend that you always consult your health care professional prior
to instituting any changes in the care of your dogs.
Please note that Part 3 will be in July's issue.
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| Photo Courtesy of Theresa Goiffon
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