Australian Terrier International

Meeting The Needs Of Aussie Owners Globally
© 2010 Australian Terrier International
June, 2010 - Vol 1, Issue 6
In This Issue
Education Night-Whelping
Photo Contest Winner
Jennie Worthing
Choosing The Stud Dog
Rally with Ruthann
Gift's For Dad
Travel Tips
Fading Puppy Syndrome
Vaccine DVD
Chef's Corner
Flea and Tick Prevention
Dog Show Countdown
Amazing Aussies
Kennel Names
AKC Gazette
Nightclub for Dogs
The Aging Aussie-Part 3
Join ATI
Join Our Mailing List!

Dear Friends,

This is our 6th Newsletter and 1/2 Year anniversary.
We salute you, our members and our readers.

We thank you for sharing your stories and your photos, for reading the newsletter, for learning and most of all we thank you for your kind words and support. Your Aussie(s) are benefiting from your increased knowledge.

To those who have shared their photos and stories please know they have touched the hearts of so many in 24 countries.

We look forward to the next 6 months.

We now have a new lending library. We will ship books to you overseas. No ATI money was used to purchase any books or DVDs. They were all purchased privately for your benefit.
Check the website for book and DVD titles.

The studies are up on the website please vote before July 1 for the studies you would like to help support with your money. We will support two studies this year.
Have a wonderful, safe and healthy summer.

Pamela Levy

Education Night with Sue Holsinger

The topic of whelping is timely because so many breeders are just about to have puppies
. If you have already had puppies please listen, as this may be very helpful for your next litter.

Please reserve June 15th

6pm PST    7pm MST     8pm CST    9pm EST

This month we will be speaking with Karen Copley, who founded Veterinary Perinatal Services, home to the WhelpWise service.

The WhelpWise service was developed specifically to address the puzzling times surrounding a whelping by providing the breeder with accurate information on presence or absence of labor and assessments of fetal well being as detected by the monitoring equipment.
You can learn more about Karen and this fabulous service at:

The education night is for members only. If you have not joined ATI, now is the time. The conversation will also be taped and will be on the website as a podcast.
Membership Only $20
All money goes to Canine Health Foundation

Photo Contest Winner

Goiffon pups 12 weeks
 Congratulations to our Photo Contest winner Ulla-Britt Norgren from Sweden.

We want to thank you all for sending in your photos and for voting.
All photos received votes and were greatly enjoyed by all.

Ulla-Britt will be receiving a copy of Camino Books, Australian Terrier Champions 1960-2005, purchased by a private donor.

ATI's First Lifetime Member    "Happy 95th Birthday, Jennie Worthing"

ATI is proud to honor Jennie Worthing with the 1st Lifetime Membership.

Jennie Worthing 95
Photo Courtesy of Theresa Goiffon                  Jennie Worthing at 95 Years Young

Jennie lived in Australia with her family for several years and got her first Aussie there. When she moved back to the US, in the 1960's, she brought her Aussies with her. One of her famous Aussies, was Ch. Taralee Fakir who was the sire of Ch. Crestwood's Cracker Jack. Check your pedigrees you may well have these dogs in them.

Theresa Goiffon and I, Pamela Levy, had the great pleasure of visiting with Jennie in her home and spending the day with her. What a joy to look at her old photographs and relive many of her Aussie experiences.

For her Birthday we did a video featuring many of her archival photos of Aussies and wishes from many Aussie lovers from around the world. If you have not seen it, you can click on this link. (Some countries are not able to view)

Jennie greatly enjoyed the video and all the wonderful wishes you all sent her. She said it was her best birthday ever.


ATI is PROUD to offer ALL Australian Terrier Lovers over 75 years old, in ALL countries, a Lifetime Membership. If you have owned, bred or showed Aussies, we would love to feature you in our newsletter. Please contact me directly at:

Juniors are our future, we are all the present, but our Lifetime Members hold our very important history and past. We at ATI cherish you and would like to honor you.

Massage-Helping Your Aussie Feel It's Best by Mary Kennedy

Emme massage
Canine Massage

Our canine companions benefit from massage in the same way that people do. The benefits of massage range from improved flexibility and increased circulation, to enhanced muscle tone and reduced inflammation. Other benefits of massage are to relieve muscle pain by releasing endorphins, to stretch and relax muscles, to improve range of motion of the limbs, to release toxins from tissues that cause soreness and stiffness and to calm the animal and improve disposition.

Why is touch so important?

Touch is a most powerful form of non-verbal communication. Studies have shown that touch is essential for growth and development of all socially dependent animals.
How is massage different from petting?

Massage takes touch to a level way beyond that of "petting" our animals. The intention with each stroke is controlled as to technique and pressure. Massage is a focused and deliberate way of touching your animals.

I have been practicing animal massage for eight years and I am consistently amazed at the immediate benefits that are gained. Recently Moxie, an elderly canine client, came to me barely able to walk and disinterested in eating. Her eyes were dull and her human companion was concerned about the dog's attitude. During the massage, her little body relaxed, her eyes closed, and she drifted off to "doggy dreamland" so that I could do my work.  Upon finishing the session, she turned and gave me a gentle lick of thanks on the back of my hand.  Moxie rose stiffly at first, accepted a treat, and hobbled out the door. Her human called me that night to tell me she had eaten a full dinner, was moving much more freely and her eyes were very bright and alive. We now have massage sessions on a regular basis and she is maintaining more comfortable movement, enjoying life and begging for supper.

Next month, I will address conditions that respond favorably to massage as well as explain various techniques to massage your Aussie.

Mary Kennedy
Mary Kennedy and Friends
For more information or to make an appointment for your canine companion, please call me at 303-579-2903 or write me at:  Please check for upcoming classes.

For a testimonial to the wonders of massage go to:
Photos, Photos, Photos

Photo Courtesy of Christine Donahue  "Tillie"

Kiwi Nelson
Photo Courtesy of Tracy Nelson   "Kiwi"

Cody Wilson 2
Photo Courtesy of Bonnie Wilson "Cody"

Goiffon pups 12 weeks
Photo Courtesy of Mervi Soiletsalo; Photographer: Kenneth Holmberg  "Moko"

Choosing The Stud Dog

Alfie Great Western

Last Month's Education night discussed The Stud Dog, with Robert Hutchinson DVM.
The podcast is now on the website.

We want to hear from you.

What Stud dogs do you feel have been important in your country and why?
If you have a photo of the dog can you please send it as a jpg?

What characteristics do you look for in a Stud dog?

email us at:

Rally with Ruthann McCaulley

Doodlebug, an Introduction to Rally Obedience
Ruthann McCaulley

The information presented is this online Doodlebug column is a condensed excerpt from the electronic book  Doodle by Design, The Comprehensive Guide to Rally Obedience by Ruthann McCaulley and available at: a download or it can be ordered as a CD.  

Training Rules/Basics

Never use a training method that you feel uncomfortable with, or adopt or use a training philosophy that makes you feel uneasy. If you are in a class setting and your instructor wants you to do something you don't want to do, don't do it. You can politely explain to the instructor the problem you have with doing what they are asking. Most instructors will respect this. These are in no particular order.

Never train when you're in a bad mood.
Punishment is a bad word and is never ever used in dog training. Never!
Treat is not a dirty word, but treats should be a reward and not a bribe. You should also refrain from being a cookie dispenser for no reason at all. If the dog is rewarded for doing nothing, then why should it do what you ask?

Correction is not a bad word. To correct means to help your dog get something right. Corrections help the dog learn.
Never repeat a command. Give it one time and one time only. Repeating the command only gives your dog the option of responding when they want.
Tell your dog to do something; don't ask. It's called command for a reason.

Always be ready to enforce every command you give, and never give a command you can't or won't enforce.
There isn't one method of training that works for every dog or handler. Some methods work great for one dog and are totally wrong for others. Just because a method is popular or being touted as the best thing since sliced bread doesn't make it right for your dog.
There are no miracle cures, no quick fixes, and no short cuts.

Be consistent. Inconsistency is unfair to your dog, and it will slow your training.
When the dog does something brilliant, especially if it's doing an exercise that they have had a problem with, stop immediately and reward the dog.
Just because the dog offers a behavior one or two (or even 20!) times does not mean the dog knows or understands the behavior.

Wally rally2

Very important points to remember about corrections

Never use any type of correction until you are absolutely sure your dog knows the exercise. During the shaping phase of learning you will never correct your dog. If there is any doubt as to whether or not your dog really knows the exercise err on the side of caution and continue to shape the behavior before you add any corrections. 
Always remain completely unemotional about the correction.You are not mad at the dog, you are simply helping the dog get something correct that they were doing incorrectly or about to do incorrectly.
When a dog makes a mistake and you must correct them, immediately play with the dog (see motivational play below) until they are happy and ready to go again. Do not keep correcting the dog over and over without breaking off to play; you will demoralize the dog completely.
When you have played with the dog and they are relaxed and happy, immediately give them a chance to do the exercise correctly so they can apply what they have learned. Then quit when they get it right. Reward for a job well done.
Once the dog understands a behavior, you do not treat or reward a dog for a behavior that you have corrected or caused to happen correctly. Yes, you should smile and give a sincere "good sit," or whatever. But hold those treats until the dog offers the correct behavior on their own.

Wally rally3

A dog should never be afraid to make a mistake. Mistakes will happen. They can be corrected. Mistakes are an opportunity to learn. Often a dog learns more by being allowed to think something through and try different things to see what is correct.

If the dog makes a mistake on one exercise two times in a row, stop right there and back up in your training
. The dog may not understand, may be confused, or may just be having a bad time. Whatever the reason, you do not want the dog to continue to make a mistake. Help the dog do it right using whatever means needed.

If you find yourself making frequent corrections you need to examine exactly what is going on
. Depending on the situation one correction out of two attempts could be considered frequent.

1. The dog may not fully understand what you are asking from them.
2. The dog may be confused.
3. The training method that you are using is not working for the dog and they are not learning the exercise. This means you need to find another way to teach the dog what you want them to do.  
4. You may have unknowingly taught the dog the Incorrect Performance  of the exercise.

Jackpots are super duper special rewards given for a job well done or when the dog makes a breakthrough on an exercise they have been having a great deal of trouble with. A jackpot is just that, the mother lode. Dogs learn to connect the word "jackpot" with a big special treat, so when I am going to give them a jackpot, I tell them.

If you generally give your dog one tiny little bite of a treat as a reward the jackpot might be ten pieces. Deliver the pieces to the dog very slowly one at a time with genuine praise.  On of my training partners says this is "fine dining" verses fast food.

Another form of jackpot is a special game or extended playtime. Break off training and immediately begin to play with the dog for a longer than usual period of time or use both treats and play.

Wally rally 4

Earthdog: Part Two with Deborah Wolbach and Chuck Bessant

Jordon & Tyler Bessant
Photo Courtesy Of Deborah Wolbach and Chuck Bessant    "Tyler" and "Jordon"

Deborah Wolbach and Chuck Bessant own four Aussies and Amanda, who thinks she is an Aussie .

Australian Terriers as Earthdogs

Two types of events serve to prove that the Aussie has not lost its original purpose:

· go to ground hunt trial - the American Working Terrier Association (AWTA)
· simulated hunt test - the American Kennel Club (AKC)
In the May issue, we briefly discussed Aussies as earthdogs. In this issue, we'll cover two organizations that offer earthdog tests: AWTA and AKC.
By promoting the use of terriers for earth work and above ground hunting, the American Working Terrier Association encourages breeders to retain the hunting instincts that make these breeds so characteristically "terrier." Without the opportunity to test the instincts so vital to these breeds, terriers would cease to be the working dogs they were meant to be - something already too common with many terrier breeds selected for showing alone.

The main objective of the AWTA is to encourage terrier owners into the hunt fields with their dogs. As an educational aid and to disseminate information to the membership, the quarterly magazine, Down To Earth, is published.  You can view it at:

Information on AWTA hunt trials:

Earthdog hunt trials are sanctioned by the AWTA.

Offered titles:
     Certificates of Gameness (CG)
     Hunting Certificate (HC)
     Working Certificate (WC)

There are four class divisions:
     Novice A & B (similar to AKC's Intro to Earthdog)
     Open - CG is awarded in the Open class only

An AWTA den trial is scheduled for June 29, 2010 as part of the Great Western Terrier Association show weekend. For more details, email Carol Hamilton at: (

The roots of the Earthdog program go back to the beginnings of small game hunting. Farmers and hunters used small terriers to pursue vermin to its lair, following the game into the ground. These dogs had to possess not only the physical attributes that would allow them to descend into the animal's den and to battle the animal on it's own terms, but also they needed the courage and mental abilities to accept the challenge of subterranean pursuit.

What is an AKC earthdog test?  "Earthdog" tests or "Go to Ground" trials are conducted using 9"x9" wood lined tunnels with an earth bottom that are buried and scented to resemble a rodent den. Tunnel configurations vary for IE, JE, SE and ME/EE. Each test has different timing parameters to reach the quarry, work the quarry, and retrieve the dog. 

Earthdog tests are sanctioned by The AKC.

Five tests and four titles are offered:
     Intro to Quarry/Earthdog (IQ - non-titled)
The tunnel is 10 feet long and 9 inches by 9 inches with one 90 degree turn.
The dog is released 10 feet from the opening of the tunnel with one brief command from the handler (there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the dog towards the entrance).
If the dog won't enter the tunnel, the handler may walk up to the entrance and encourage the dog to enter. Once in the tunnel, the handler needs to be silent.
Once in the tunnel, the dog has two minutes to begin working - barking, growling, scratching, digging, lunging, etc (a "death stare" doesn't count as working) - and must work for 30 seconds. If necessary, the judge may help with some gentle encouragement to get the dog to work.
 Junior Earthdog (JE)
The tunnel is 30 foot long and 9 inches by 9 inches with three 90 degree turns.
The dog is released 10 feet from the opening of the tunnel with one brief command from the handler (there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the dog towards the entrance).
The handler must remain silent from this point until the judge says it is okay to retrieve the dog.
The dog has 30 seconds to reach the quarry. The dog may leave and enter as often as it likes, but it must reach the quarry within 30 seconds. Once the dog has reached the quarry, it must remain there and work.
The dog has 30 seconds to begin working. The dog must work the quarry for 60 seconds to pass.
The handler must remove the dog by recall from the tunnel or at the end of the tunnel where the quarry is located. There is no time limit for retrieval.
Senior Earthdog (SE)
The tunnel is 30 foot long and 9 inches by 9 inches with three 90 degree turns with a false exit and false den.
The dog is released 20 feet from the opening of the tunnel with one brief command from the handler (there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the dog towards the entrance).
The handler must remain silent from this point until the judge says it is okay to retrieve the dog.
The dog has 90 seconds from release to reach the quarry, with entry and exit as often as it likes.
Once the dog reaches the quarry, it must remain and start working within 15 seconds, and work for 90 seconds.
Once the dog has passed the working portion, the handler must recall the dog from the main entrance. The dog can exit from the false entrance or the primary entrance as long as the dog is retrieved within 90 seconds.
 Master Earthdog (ME)
The test is conducted as a brace of two dogs matched by a drawing of armband numbers; the dogs must not live together.
The tunnel is 30 to 40 feet long and 9 inches by 9 inches with three 90 degree turns with a false exit and false den. At one point in the tunnel, a 6" diameter obstruction/constriction fits loosely is added for the dog to navigate over or under.
The hunt begins 100 to 300 yards from the tunnel allowing the off-lead dogs to follow the handlers' voice commands to the tunnel. The dogs are expected to work together, honor each other and not interfere with each other.

Once at the tunnel, a dog must decisively mark the scented entrance to the den. Once the first dog marks the entrance, it is removed by the handler so the second dog has a chance to mark the entrance. Marking does not mean urinating at the entrance; it means the dog has found the entrance, showing interest and wants to go in. However, it is not uncommon for a dog to urinate at the entrance. It happens.
Once the dogs have marked the entrance, the first dog is given an opportunity to enter the tunnel. The entrance is blocked to prevent the dogs from entering for safety reasons. Once the obstacles are cleared from the entrance, the first dog that marked the tunnel is released at the opening of with one brief command from the handler (again, there is no throwing, tossing, dropping or pushing the dog towards the entrance). The handler must remain silent from this point until the judge says it is okay to retrieve the dog.

The dog has 90 seconds to reach the quarry and must begin working within 15 seconds, and work for 90 seconds. After 60 seconds of work, the judge creates a distraction over the quarry end of the tunnel to simulate digging sounds. The dog must continue to work the remaining 30 seconds without interruption.
After 90 seconds, the judge will say it is okay to remove the dog, and the handler has 15 seconds to retrieve by voice commands.
While the first dog is working, the second dog is staked 10 feet from the tunnel entrance using a flat collar and a twist-in-the-ground stake to safely restrain the dog. This dog must show interest and may make sounds but not excessively. This is called 'honoring' the first dog. The second dog's handler may provide mild corrections to settle the dog if needed.
Once the first dog completes the test, pass or fail, it will switch places with the second dog and honor the second dog while it completes the test.
Effective March 10, 2010, the first new title was created since the program's inception in 1993: Endurance Earthdog (EE). Once a dog has passed ME, it can compete for an EE.
EE is award to a dog that passes both SE and ME on the same test day - a double-qualifier. The dog can earn as multiple EE titles; only one per test event. As a dog earns multiple EEs, a number is added to the title such as EE-1, EE-2, and so on. EE appears after the ME title suffix of the dog's registered name.

In our opinion, JE is the most challenging: after releasing the dog with one short command, the dog must reach the quarry in 30 seconds. In SE, while the tunnel is more complex, the dog has 90 seconds to reach the quarry yet the dog already has experience.

Conformation or earthdog tests are not an either/or proposition. Aussies can and do participate in go-to-ground trials one weekend and compete in the conformation ring the same or next weekend. The next opportunity for a combined conformation and earthdog event weekend will be Great Western Terrier Association the end of June in Long Beach, California.

 Happy showing and digging!
We hope these articles have piqued your curiosity. Please email your questions or topic requests about earthdog you'd like covered. We look forward to hearing your comments and suggestions. Deborah: and Chuck:


Starting off on the Right Paw
Start out with the tunnel set up straight and 'scrunched' up so that it's shorter. Have your dog sit and stay (or have someone hold him), and then go to the other end and call him through the tunnel. Give treats and praise and tell him how wonderful he is and wasn't that fun? Repeat that, slowly lengthening the tunnel. Don't make it too long, too fast. Remember, light at the end of the tunnel is just as important for dogs as it is for people! The next stage is to send your dog through the tunnel with you running alongside it. Then you can start curving it so your dog doesn't see the light at the other end. More advanced work is to 'send out' ahead to a tunnel with you standing still.

Popular Call Words
Use a specific command for this obstacle, like 'tunnel', 'go tunnel' or 'through'. This is called "obstacle discrimination", and while body language is the most important thing, there are certain challenges on courses that are better tackled if your dog knows the obstacle name. The goal is to get your dog to go bonkers for this word just as much as he does for 'wannagoforaride'?

Goiffon pups 12 weeks

Avoiding the Traps
Judges (who design courses for competitions) know how much dogs love tunnels. They can sometimes be tricky in setting up their courses by including a tunnel 'trap', where your dog has to choose between a tunnel and another obstacle that are placed very close together (snaked under an A-frame or a Dog-Walk). The trick here is make sure your dog knows his obstacle or directional commands to avoid the vacuum of tunnels over the proper obstacle. Train for tunnel traps! Place your tunnel under a contact obstacle or near a jump where it will tempt your dog to run in (because it's fun!) and train him that nope, tunnel is not always the best choice. Set up another tunnel on the other side of the course, and lay out your course so that sometimes it's tunnel A he runs through, sometimes its' tunnel B, and he only gets to go in when he hears those marvelous words, 'Go Tunnel!' You'll save yourself and him points at trials, and by limiting when he can go in the tunnel, you'll make them even more wonderful when he does get to go in (like that favorite toy you keep out of reach and is only for when he is a very very good dog!). Mix things up. Sometimes he gets both tunnels, and sometimes no tunnels to keep him looking to you for tunnel directions.

Let's Talk Tunnels
Practice tunnels are good for most back-yard purposes, providing they are as close as possible to the competition diameter of 24". Too small and your dog will learn to crouch and this will slow him up. Get one that is at least as thick as canvas (not the lighter weight nylon) because not only will it last longer, but also the heavier weight makes it more secure against rolling and moving. Competition Tunnels are best for this reason, as they have very thick coils. The longer the better, because you can do curves and s-shapes for 'tunnel traps' (see above). If you have two shorter length tunnels with the same diameter, you can attach them together to make a longer tunnel by using large office binder clips on the edges. No matter what kind of tunnel you have, they're easy to handle; they scrunch up like a slinky for storage.

Remember, if your dog gets scared of tunnels, straighten them out, shorten them, and let the light shine in with plenty of praise and love and treats. Agility is fun!

Afforable Agility Equipment

Happy Father's Day, June 20th

The Mechalke's Wish All Father's A Fabulous Day!

Dad's day
  Photo Courtesy Of Cheryl Mechalke

To Our Human Dads

Thanks for the talks and the fabulous walks.
We love our house and the occasional mouse.
You work off your tail to bring us great food.
You are the greatest to me, I'm over the moon.
Have a Great Day!
Drinks at my water bowl, are on me!

To Our Aussie Dads

Thanks for delivering; fresh frozen or chilled
I owe my life and good looks to you
I know, as your photo, is on our windowsill

To All Our Fathers Two Legged and Four
Thanks for all you do
We send you doggy kisses and more

Gift's For Dad

Make Cuff links with your dog's photo.
Cuff Links

How about a personalized coffee mug?

How about a luxury seat cover for his car to keep it clean?
There are many in the market. I found this one...

Take Dad and your Aussie down memory lane together. If there's a computer graphics expert in the family, gather together still photos and video of Dad's history with this current Aussie. If you can get some of Dad's childhood photos with other pets, add them to the mix. Put them all together to make a Father's Day video, complete with music and narration to exhibit at the family gathering for lunch or dinner honoring Dad and his pal.

Dianne and "Ozzie" Wall Wish All A Happy Father's Day
Ozzie Wall
Happy Father's Day, Daddy Jim, Love Your Ozzie


Spotlight on Carin Sandahl from Sweden

Carin has been instrumental in ATI's success. She submits monthly information about what is happening in Sweden. We couldn't do what we do, without Carin.

This month Cheryl Mechalke interviewed Carin. We greatly appreciate and thank Carin for her involvement in ATI. We also hope she is getting a little rest after having two large litter's. Congratulations on your puppies and we wish you much success with them.

Carin Sandahl doing nails
 Photo Courtesy of Carin Sandahl   "Trimming Nails"

Why did you decide to get your first Aussie?  What attracted you to the breed?

We had Standard Poodles at the time and I had been charmed by Norwich Terriers and was thinking of buying one as a second breed. But, the time did not seem right so some years passed. Then I read an article about Australian Terriers in our Kennel Club magazine. It was a big article over three pages and I was totally hooked after having read it. That was the breed I had been looking for. Me and my husband went to visit a breeder to meet the breed "live" so to speak, and we both fell in love with these little dogs. We loved the happiness, the alertness, that they were so easy to communicate with, and the intelligence etc. The whole picture was attractive, and the year after we managed to buy a promising bitch pup from Finland.
What is your most memorable or favorite Aussie story?
That is difficult, but I come to think of our first Aussie, Julia. She was (as I have discovered that all Aussies are) very special. She is the only one that has been a "one man/woman dog". She loved visitors and was outgoing and curious of everything, but she was MY dog. When she was a puppy we had our arguments about who was the boss, no protests accepted when clipping claws or trimming, and after that she considered herself being my assistant. If the other dogs did not obey my orders, little Julia made them know it! She helped me take care of the poodle puppies, telling the other dogs what to do, or rather what not to do. Checking the grown up dogs so nobody was to hard on the pups - if so Julia gave them a lesson. She was also a terrific mother to her own puppies. She was a skilled ratter, she was the most reliable and faithful dog you could imagine. She was very special to me and the only dog I have known to have principles of how to behave for both herself and the other dogs.
How long have you had Aussies?
Since 1984, that is 26 years this year! Oh my how quickly the years fly!

Teeth brushing
 Photo Courtesy of Carin Sandahl

Have you bred any litters?

Yes, I have right now litters 44 and 45 at home.
Do you do confirmation? Agility? Obedience?
When I was younger I did some obedience with my Standard Poodles, but I have not had the time with the Aussies - unfortunately, they would love it!
Have you ever imported or exported an Aussie?
Yes, I have done both. I have imported a couple of dogs from Australia and one from the US, and I have exported dogs to the Nordic countries and to the US.
What were the positives about doing that?
Besides the exchange of blood lines, which is necessary, you get to know other interesting people with the same interest as your self.
Is there anything regarding importing or exporting you would like to see changed?
Yes, our Swedish blood test regulations considering rabies, but that is going to change in a couple of years I heard.


Do you have children?

Yes two, but they are grown up and have moved home. I even have a couple of grandchildren.
Do you have other interests or hobbies?
Yes, lots of them, like flowers, books, needlework, drawing, sculpturing etc, but all that has to wait until the dogs has got their part of my time.
How are you enjoying ATI?
I enjoy reading it very much - and the photos! I think it´s a great idea to increase the knowledge about how things work in other parts of the world. To make us understand each other better, and to make it easier to make Aussie friends all over the world. We have a small breed, and its vital to be able to find new breeding material in other parts of the world, to broaden the gene pool.

What more would you like to see us doing?
I think you do a terrific job already. Can´t think of anything.

Luna Carin Sandahl
Photo Courtesy of Carin Sandahl Luna of Twe-Dle-Dee

Traveling with Your Aussie by Pamela Levy

Summer is finally here.  According to the American Animal Hospital Association,  
67 percent of pet owners vacation or travel with their pets.  To make sure your trip is as uneventful as possible please plan and prepare. Here are my helpful tips.


Should You Take Your Dog?

Does your dog like to travel?
Does your dog have an illness that will be problematic if it travels?
If traveling by car, can the dog get in and out easily?
Are you traveling in a warm climate where leaving him in the car could be hazardous to his health?
Note: Many grocery stores do not have shade in their parking lots. Dogs can die quickly if left in a car even for just a few minutes. In many communities, it is illegal to leave an animal in a closed vehicle when outside temperatures exceed 70 degrees.
Are you traveling to pet friendly locations? I have found some cities almost hostile if traveling with your dog. As an example, Santa Fe, NM, rates amongst the worst. I couldn't find a place to let me eat outdoors with my dog. I couldn't find a shady place to park my car. I was starving and needed a restroom. Thank goodness I was just passing through.
I have found Aspen, CO to be amongst the best, with wonderful pet friendly hotels, stores and banks that welcome well-behaved dogs with a treat ready when you arrive; what could be better? There are many restaurants where you can eat outside with your dog. They will even bring them a bowl of water.
If you need to leave your dog behind there are many wonderful pet sitters that will care for your dog in your home. There are also many fabulous pet resorts you can take your dog. Remember, your dog may have more fun staying home.
Get Prepared.
Has your dog flown in a plane before?  If not, start getting him used to his pet carrier. Make a game of it. Carry him around in his carrier bag on your shoulder. Does the bag have wheels? Wheel him around so he isn't shrieking in the airport from the sound of the wheels. Wheel him on different surfaces. Airports have carpets, tile, escalators and elevators; get him as comfortable as possible. Test the wheels ahead of time with your dog's weight. If necessary, put a little oil on the wheels if they are squealing.
Is your dog traveling in cargo? Get him used to his crate. Make your reservations during the coolest part of the day. Try to have a direct flight even if that requires you to travel by car to a different airport. Your dog will thank you for it. Confirm the largest crate allowed if traveling with a large dog. We Aussie people don't have that worry but if you also own a large dog it can be a concern. If transferring to another plane, make sure the second flight has the same rules as the first.

Is this a car trip? Does he like to go on car trips? Get him used to it. Start taking short trips of just a few minutes a day and gradually build up to an hour. Make it fun; bring treats and give him positive rewards. If you will be using a crate, put the dog in the crate. If you are using a barrier to keep him from the front seat, make sure you have it in place. Have your travel training simulate how your actual trip will be.
Photo Courtesy of Thecla Harper "Cody and Friend"

Stay Safe.

On a plane make sure you are using an airline-approved bag. There is no time to correct mistakes once you get to the airport. Some airlines have size and weight restrictions for dogs. I have provided you with links below to check out your airlines' policies. Make sure you have a reservation for your dog. Only so many dogs are allowed in coach and first class. Prices vary but expect about $75 each way.
I like to check on the size of my plane ahead of time. The easiest way is to call and ask. This way I can learn which seats have the most space under them. I've come to love middle seats. The aisle usually has less space under the seats sometimes by as much as half of the space! Window seats can get extra hot or cold. The heating and cooling mechanisms seem to be along the floors of the window seats. If my dog gets sick or I need to get up it's easier to get past one person rather than two.  First class seats can be tricky because of the boxes under the seats for airplane equipment. Call your airline early and ask about the seats while the seat selection is available.

If traveling by car, buckle up. Why not use a crate? You will be surprised how much dogs like them.
Your dog should always be restrained. There are safety harnesses that you can attach to the seat belt. This gives the dog some mobility. There are booster seats that also attach to the seat belts and the dogs can ride in those. Some are made big enough to accommodate two small dogs. You can also get barriers for your car, either mesh or metal to keep your dog in a selected area of the car. These can be excellent for multiple dogs or larger dogs.

Summi Sum
Photo Courtesy Of Sally Balch  "We're Parked!"

Make sure you have something that can protect the dog from the sun and also allow for ventilation.
You know how hot it gets when the sun is beating in your window; make sure that isn't happening to your dog. Also make sure if you have him in a crate in the rear of the car that cool air from the air conditioner can get to him.

If traveling in RVs, make sure you pet-proof them.  Make sure everything is properly stowed and nothing can roll around. You don't want the dog flying through the air in a crate nor do you want something not stowed properly flying through the air and hurting you or your dog. It's amazing how many people will cut in front of you because they think your RV can stop on a dime.
Pit Stops.

If traveling by plane, make sure your dog visits a nice grassy area before getting to the airport or even at the airport. Many airports now provide pet relief areas. Allow yourself a few extra minutes so you don't stress out your animal.  If your dog has never gone "potty" on concrete don't expect him to do it on your day of travel.
Tuck a "potty" pad or two in your bag. If your flight is delayed you can take him out in a restroom and hopefully he will use the pad. It's great to cross train your dog to use those pads.  I also take a plastic grocery bag. Once I was transporting a puppy for a friend and the puppy had serious diarrhea on the plane. I was able to rinse him off in the restroom and tie the dirty "potty" pad in the grocery bag so it didn't smell up the plane.
Once you land put him on a leash and get him outdoors. It usually takes almost 30 minutes for you to get your luggage so let your dog relieve himself while you wait.

When traveling by car, I do not like to use the rest areas for my dogs. I actually prefer nice grassy areas at gas stations. They are cleaner with less dog doo scattered all over the place and I think possibly healthier dogs are there or perhaps less of them. I have no statistics to back this up. I also travel alone so I like how well lighted the gas stations are which gives me a feeling of security.
Stop every few hours. It's good for the dog and good for your body to take a break and stretch. You may think you are adding time to your trip but you will actually be feeling better and more alert. You will be a safer driver and able to travel farther if you take more breaks.
Pack For Your Dog.
Your dog is going to need his own bag and supplies. I make a list and start packing his things a few days early. 

Water-Make sure it's whatever he is currently drinking. If he drinks your tap water, buy a few empty gallon containers and fill them with your tap water. Changes in water can cause diarrhea. Ask your vet for medication to take along on trip in case he gets diarrhea.

Food-Make sure you take enough food so you don't have to switch food midway through your trip. Be mindful if your food requires refrigeration.

I always take a pet first-aid kit. They usually have something for tick removal, as well as just about anything you can need for a small emergency.

I take bottle of carpet cleaner just in case of an accident in the hotel room. I take a clean king size sheet to throw on the top of the bed so my dog doesn't get the hotel bedding dirty and also to hopefully prevent him from getting bed mites.

I also like to take a spray bottle of Febreeze. Strangely, some pet friendly hotels will only allow animals in smoking rooms. If you didn't book ahead and have the great misfortune of having this as your only option, Febreeze actually helps a lot. It also masks any smells you may leave behind.

I take a few extra towels just in case I need to wash him off. I bring a big garbage bag just in case the dog gets sick in his crate. I can seal it up until I get to a laundromat without the smell destroying the car. I take a little of my laundry detergent in a bag so I don't have to pay triple at the laundromat and risk my dog being allergic to a new product. Does your dog have a favorite pillow at home? Just toss it in the car to make him more comfortable in the hotel.

Paperwork To Take With You.

You must have available a current health certificate for your pet available during interstate travel. You may need proof of a rabies vaccination along with the health certificate when entering some states, like California.  Make sure you travel with your vaccine history.

Make sure your dog wears a collar with ID and contact information during your travels.

We hate to think of accidents happening but we need to be prepared. I put my pet's veterinary history, proof of vaccinations, medications and my vet's contact information along with my emergency contact information in a clear fed ex envelope, which is taped to the side of my dog crate. Put it somewhere where you won't be covering it up. I take my crates into the hotel so, if I had an emergency in the hotel, the staff would know what to do with my dog.

Tell your vet where you are going. I live at an altitude of 8500 feet and don't worry about fleas.  We have the great fortune of not having much Lyme's disease or Heartworm problems. If traveling to areas where your animal may have additional health risks, consult with your vet and make sure you have your dog protected.
In certain states or cities there are mandatory spay/neuter laws. If your unaltered dog should get loose in these localities, you may face fines with possible unwanted surgery on your dog.  Be careful, especially in Kentucky.

If your dog has an emergency you'll want to get him to the nearest vet. If you have a choice you may want to look for one accredited by the American Animal Hospital Association.
AAA offers the publication, Traveling With Your Pet: The AAA PetBook, which is available at your local AAA office.  This book lists more than 13,000 animal-friendly AAA approved hotels and campgrounds, as well as pet-accessible attractions, animal hospitals, and much more.  You'll also find tips on preparing for car and airline travel, both domestic and international.

Little Extras.

I have never drugged my dogs to fly or travel. Once in awhile I have used Rescue Remedy and I also found this:

Calm Your Dog...Naturally!
Synergy Labs Richard's Organics Pet Calm for Dogs can be used to settle nerves and reduce hyperactivity prior to travel, grooming, introduction to new environments or other stressful situations. $6.59 At www.PetFoodDirect.comon Sale Now!

If you are out hiking with your dog or visiting, I love travel water bowls that fold up flat. Check out:

Your Dog will Look Like a Seasoned Traveler
Handsome. Durable. Collapsible. The Kurgo Pet Travel Wander Water Bowl is made with authentic seat belt material plus a double-ply waterproof interior. Quality crafted to last for years and look great every time you use it. $12.99 www.PetFoodDirect.comon Sale Now!

This is a link to one of the barriers I mentioned for your car. Be aware that in California you can get a rather hefty fine for your dog traveling in your lap.

What Rides in the Back Seat, STAYS in the Back Seat!
Dogs moving around freely in cars are a safety hazard to themselves, the driver, and the passengers. The Kurgo Pet Travel Back Seat Barrier keeps everyone safe by creating a strong wall between the front and back seats of the car. $41.99 on Sale Now!

Aussie ears can be vulnerable to sunburn which can lead to cancer. I learned the hard way after having a cancerous lesion removed from Emme's ear. I've started using Jurlique sunscreen, which has fewer toxic ingredients for people and animals. I'm sure you can check with your vet for other sunscreen suggestions.

Air Travel Links.

To make sure your air travel plans involving your pet go smoothly, you should always understand the airlines' current policies. Below are the links to the major airlines' pet policies. Take a look at your favorite airline before you make your reservations.

As of July 16, 2010, the partnership between AirTran Airways and Frontier Airlines will end. Midwest Airlines and Frontier Airlines were purchased by Republic Air Holding's Inc..  United and Continental have now merged.  With mergers and changes happening faster than we can groom our dogs be wise and check before traveling.             


Alaska Air
Alaska Air

American Airlines
American Air

Continental Airlines
Continental Air

Delta Airlines
Delta Airlines

Frontier Airlines
Frontier Airlines

Midwest Express
Midwest Airlines

Southwest Airlines

Spirit Airlines
Spirit Airlines

US Airways

United Airlines
United Airlines

In The US, Frontier now lets small dogs fly in the cabin with the owners again.For the complete article and more info, click here:


Fading Puppies Syndrome-Homeopathic Preparation

ATI does not endorse any company. We do want to let you know, when we learn of something in the market place that may be helpful. You should always consult with your Veterinarian before using any new product.

PCL Puppies

The Fading Puppies Syndrome

Richard Croft the originator of the Fading Puppies Remedy developed the product over many years, based on observation and trying over 800 combination's. It has been used for over 30 years in Europe and has treated tens of thousands of puppies and kittens successfully.
Puppies that fade can do so for a variety of reasons. This could be why some fade out in the first few hours and some may go at two weeks. The Fading Puppy Remedy takes into account the majority of reasons why pups fade, giving it a very High success rate.
Dosage to the puppies from birth: As a preventative 2 drops twice daily if they look normal for two to three weeks. If there is any deterioration in the puppies use a higher dosage- - 4 drops half hourly or hourly for about eight to twelve hours in every 24 hours. The dosage relies very much on how the puppies are responding, so give more or less as you think best. All litters of puppies are not the same so you may see some variations in the response to the remedy. One sign is a tendency to " puff and blow" a little. In this case cut the dosage in half. NOTE: For premature toy puppies that weigh under 3 ounces dilute the remedy one drop to three drops of pure water. Then give a single drop per dose.
Puppies that are being bottle fed or supplemented can be given Fading Puppy Remedy as it will also help the digestive system. Give it after dewclaw removal and tail docking to allay trauma.
The Fading remedy will improve the milk of the bitch and the dosage of half a teaspoon can be given once or twice a day, regardless of the size of the bitch. Homeopathy is not dosed by weight.
The Remedy can be given to the bitch during whelping for cases of exhaustion.
To help prevent Fading Puppy Syndrome, it is recommended to give the remedy from the time of mating at half a teaspoon daily. This is particularly good for bitches with a history of losses. There are advantages though, even if the bitch has had no history. The puppies are more robust and even in size. The remedy should not be given on food, as this stops it from having a good effect. The remedy is in a sucrose solution, so it is highly palatable. If there is any difficulty in administration, it can be put in a saucer with one or two teaspoons of milk or honey. Or use a syringe.
The first few hours are critical in keeping puppies going. Heat is very important.
Storage: Remedies should be stored in a cool, dry place away from light. Can safely be refrigerated in hot climates. Keep away from pungent odors and electronic appliances. ( microwave; computer, etc.)
60 ml. ... $ 26.00

More Vaccine Info

ATI will be purchasing this tape for our lending library. If you are not a member or would like a copy of this fabulous DVD please click on the link.

The DVD of the Safe Pet event held March 2010, will be ready soon. There's a sign up at for more information. You will hear the presentation given by Jean Dodds, DVM which includes, the Q & A on that day, the Q & A from the 2009 Rabies Challenge Fund event plus Dr. Dodds presentation on thyroid disease. All proceeds benefit the Rabies Challenge Fund.

Photos, Photos, Photos

Kiwi Nelson 2
Photo Courtesy of Tracy Nelson "Pretty In Pink"

Photo Courtesy of Pamela Levy      "Water"

New pup
Photo Courtesy of Cindy and Eric Kalman "Posh"

Photo Courtesy of Pam Reinert   "Ellie and Friend"

Alfie and Zeta
Photo Courtesy of Pamela Levy "Alfie and Zeta at Camp Gone To The Dogs"

Photo Courtesy of Barb Sayler "Taddy"

Tillie Donahue 3
Photo Courtesy of Christine Donahue "Tillie"

Chef's Corner with Cheryl Mechalke

Salmon Cakes for Dogs

Goiffon pups 12 weeks
Photo Courtesy of Cheryl Mechalke

You don't have to have a Portuguese Water Dog or a Chesapeake Bay Retriever to make these salmon cakes for dogs. Even your little land lover will appreciate the delicious salmon and the yogurt tartar sauce.

While your dog gobbles up these salmon dog treats, you'll love that they are receiving the health benefits of salmon, such as the goodness of fish oil for dogs, the high amount of protein, vitamin D and the Omega 3 fatty acids.


Salmon Cakes
1 14.75 oz can of wild Alaskan salmon
2 egg whites
1/4 cup sour cream, low or fat free
2 tsp. dried parsley
1/2 cup carrot, shredded
1/2 cup plain bread crumbs
1 tsp. dried dill weed

Yogurt Tartar Sauce

1/4 cup plain yogurt, low or fat free
1/2 tsp. dried dill weed

Salmon cakes
Photo Courtesy of Dog Treat Kitchen


Salmon Cakes
1.     Preheat oven to 375° F
2.     Drain liquid from salmon. Remove bones and skin, if any.
3.     In a medium bowl, mix together salmon and next four ingredients (through shredded carrot).
4.     In a separate shallow dish, mix together the plain bread crumbs and dill weed.
5.     Using a cookie scooper, scoop one ball and lightly flatten into a patty form.
6.     Dredge or thoroughly coat the patty in the bread crumb mixture.
7.     Place on a lightly greased cookie sheet.
8.     Repeat until there is no more salmon mixture.
9.     Bake for 12 minutes. Then flip and bake for 12 more minutes.
10.   Cool completely on a wire rack before serving.

Yogurt Tartar Sauce
11.   Mix together yogurt and dried dill weed.
12.   Cover and refrigerate until salmon cakes are cool.

Storing & Yield: Any dog treat recipe with meat should be served quickly. We recommend one week in the refrigerator. You can freeze these salmon cakes for 2 months. If you are using a 1" cookie scoop, this recipe should make 2 dozen salmon dog treats.

Tips & Techniques:

Be sure to drain the salmon very well. Otherwise the mixture will be too moist and will not hold together. If you have already combined the salmon mixture and it is not holding together, add one tablespoon of plain bread crumbs at a time, until the mixture stays together.
To save time you can use pre-shredded carrots.
If your dog needs or prefers softer treats, you can bake the cakes for 10 minutes on each side.
The fresh catch of the day, the smell of salt water and the feel of sand beneath your toes: remember fun days at the beach as you make these delicious salmon cakes for dogs.

Courtesy of


Fleas and Ticks

Goiffon pups 12 weeks
Photo Courtesy Of Pamela Levy

Fleas and ticks can be dangerous disease carriers. Fleas can carry tapeworms and ticks can carry the bacteria that cause Lyme disease. And, of course, there's the discomfort fleas can cause your pet (and you)! If your pet is allergic, that discomfort can be considerable - leading to open sores and infection.
Today, there are numerous options to kill fleas and to prevent them from coming back. But, how do you know which product is best for your pet? How do you deal with a flea problem if it occurs? Hopefully, this information will shed some light on ways to keep your pet as healthy as possible by letting you in on some useful information on the nasty "bugs of summer."

The best way to manage fleas (and ticks for that matter) is by prevention. Preventative flea control has been made possible by new product innovations and insights into flea biology. We now know that adult fleas (the biting stage) spend virtually their entire life on the pet, not in the carpet. Eggs are laid on the fur and fall off into carpeting, beneath furniture cushions, and wherever else the pet lies, sleeps or spends time. After hatching, the eggs transform into larvae, pupae, and eventually adults to renew the cycle. There are a variety of products including topicals, oral pills, collars, and sprays that can help treat adult fleas and prevent new eggs from hatching.

Topical treatments are perhaps the easiest and most common method of preventing fleas. They are easy to use and usually last for one month making treatments less stressful and relatively safe. Topical medications usually come in small vials that contain oily liquid which is applied to your pet's skin between the shoulder blades. The active ingredients are taken up by the oil glands in the skin which distributes the medication so that it will be effective against fleas on any part of the pet's body. Many topical medications are also available in combination's that will protect against ticks (i.e., Frontline/Frontline Plus), mosquitoes (i.e., Advantix for dogs), and heartworm disease (i.e., Revolution/Advantage Multi). Many of these products are capable of killing adult fleas and preventing eggs from hatching.

In order for these products to be effective and safe, it is important to make sure you are using the correct product for your pet's species and weight. Using a dog product on a cat and vice versa can be dangerous and ineffective.

Today's customers are also interested in natural products that are available to help address flea and tick issues. These products typically do not contain pyrethrins or other chemicals (which may be harmful if swallowed or inhaled). A product line called Natural Chemistry, for example, works by attacking the physical structure of the flea or pest by dissolving the waxy protective coating on the surface of the pest's body. This allows a lethal dose of laxative to be delivered to the pest which results in death. Other natural products on the market may work differently. You should always speak with your veterinarian before choosing any flea/tick product for your pet to make sure what you are using is safe and effective.

There are also a number of pills that can be given orally to help combat fleas. Many of these products contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) that prevent flea eggs from hatching. Examples of pills include Sentinel and Program. Sentinel also contains ingredients that can prevent heartworm disease. These products will prevent future fleas but will not kill the adult fleas if they are already present. The only exception to this is Capstar which will kill the adult fleas but will not prevent future flea eggs from hatching.

If your pet already has fleas, it is important to realize that treating the animal alone will not be enough to solve the problem. Since there are hundreds of eggs still present in the environment even after the adult fleas die, addressing the environment will be necessary. Use professional flea foggers and sprays for hard-to-reach spots, following manufacturer directions.

Clean the flea eggs out of your house by vacuuming several times in a week. Tape the vacuum bags shut and throw them away. It is also important to wash any objects that your pet comes into contact with regularly. Do not be surprised if you still see some adult fleas present for up to two weeks after successful treatment. These "survivors" are probably newly emerged adults which have not yet succumbed to the insecticide.

It is important to speak with your veterinarian to make sure you are using a product that is safe and effective for your pet and their needs. Good flea and tick control is an essential part of every pet's preventative health plan and is vital to achieving optimal general health. By Wendy Zimmerman DVM, CVA
Juniors by Theresa Goiffon

Goiffon pups 12 weeks
  Photo's Courtesy of Satu Virtanen   Satu with "Vire" Surely Can Buy My Love

Australian Terrier, Junior Handler, Satu Virtanen.  

Satu Virtanen, is 19 years old. She is a former Junior Handler and is from a little town called Hollola. Which is approximately one hundred kilometers to the north of the capital of Finland, Helsinki.  Among her Aussie-friends she is  also called  "pikku-Satu" (means little-Satu) because she came to this breed with her "mentor" Mrs. Satu Harden (kennel Surely) when she was fifteen.

What made you interested in showing dogs?
I can always blame my friends who were interested junior handling before me.  A breeder of my friends Bichon Frise introduced this interest to my friend who then told me about showing dogs.
For some years I followed my friends career of junior handling and then I somehow decided to join them.
How did you get started in Junior Showmanship? Was it easy or difficult for you?

It seemed to be difficult, because I didn't have that kind of dog.  At home we had Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, a lazy boy, not a show dog. I trained with my friends' dogs and competed with borrowed dogs. Then I met the Aussie breeders in an unofficial show, I got to know them and their dogs that's how it began for me.

Why did you choose the Australian Terrier breed to show?

Aussie's are a wonderful show dog! They are energetic, happy, self-confident, very showy with the right temperament. It's a well-known breed here in Finland (nowadays) but never the most popular junior handling dog, which, I think, is a good thing if you want to stand out from the group.

What did or do you enjoy about showing as a Junior Handler?

This is a very difficult question. It must have something to do with my passion for competing. Handling was always an easy dog interest for someone who doesn't have a dog at home (like many of my friends). I would also say that handling is very challenging interest. You'll never be "ready" because there's so many breeds to show and so many dog persons to learn to handle. Handling consist of so many little details which all have to work correctly to make a perfect show, and of course, the dog is always a person! I have always enjoyed the time before the ring, watching other competitors performances and meeting friend from the other cities.

What did or do you like about showing the Aussie Terrier?

Aussies are happy! Many of them are waging their tails almost all the time. (You can see it very easily here in Finland, where we don't dock the tails). Aussies take contact to their handler, they like to show themselves. They are small dogs (dogs to put on the table in the shows) but still very good and quiet fast movers which I have always loved! In Finland we have many ways to handle  the Aussie "right", not just one, which makes it easier for handler to find a suitable way for handler.
The Australian terriers get on with other dogs better than most of the terriers, and with people of course. I have never had problems to give an Aussie handled by myself to swap-dog to some strange handler in the competition.

How old were you when you started showing as a Junior Handler?

The very first time in the ring was maybe 2003 when I was thirteen, I competed with our Cavalier on local club show of Cavaliers and if I'm not mistaken I was placed 3rd? But I really started to compete when I was fifteen.
 What is your favorite part of Junior Handling
I love almost every part! Maybe not traveling, when it means sitting hours and hours in the car going somewhere in Finland. The competition of course and the time I spend with the dog while other competitors are showing their owns. Meeting other juniors, I have many friends around the country with this interest.

What is your least favorite part of Junior Showmanship?

Rushing to the ring! I hate if I'm late and I have to hurry to go to the ring. I need my little time with the dog before the ring. Also, the last check-out before our turn.

Goiffon pups 12 weeks
"Milli" CH Surely Mad About You

Do you foresee becoming a Professional Handler someday, if so will you still show the Australian Terrier breed or other breed/breeds?
Well, this is easy question for me! I'm too old for junior things (over 17-years-old). Yes, I will and I show Australian Terriers nowadays in the real show ring. Of course I like to be professional someday, but here in Finland we don't have same kind of culture in pro-handling like you have in the USA or for example in Russian.  But I'm always ready to handle when it's needed!  Breed doesn't matter to me, I like to learn to handle new breeds too.

Are your family and friends supportive of your interest? What do they think about you showing dogs?

My family (mom and dad) have never understand this interest. Dad used to drive me to the competitions around southern Finland and mom always asked "How did it go, did you get prizes?" But the real meaning of the shows was never clear to them. My friends who also are interested in dogs and shows have been very supportive!  We have tried to train each other to become better and better telling each other what we did wrong and what we could do better.

How many hours a week do you think you spend training your dog?

This sounds weird to my ears. I can't answer that! I used to train with our Cavalier sometimes. During my junior handling years I went to local handling practicing, and unofficial shows where I tested myself. I never compete with my own dogs, so this is difficult to say. Many times I met my Aussie some hours before the ring, get to know the person, then straight to the competitions!  Of course I have my favorite Aussies with who I competed many times with success.

Do you groom your dog yourself?

No I don't. I learned to handle before grooming, and I'm still learning to groom Aussies! Huge thanks to my breeder friends who groom their Aussies for me to compete with!

If you had one or more Aussie Terriers, do you have a favorite, if so, what makes that dog special to you?

Right now I have one Australian Terrier co-owned with her breeder, Mrs. Satu Harden. "Vire" Surely Can Buy My Love is now 1 1/2 years old red bitch. At home I have also a Cavalier King Charles Spaniel male.
 As you can count, I never competed with Vire in junior handling, I got her after my career. During my junior years I have some favorite Aussies. "Pultti" CH Melukylän Gangsteripimu (bred by Mrs. Kirsi Ola, owned by Satu Harden) was the one of the kind. With her I started my career and we succeeded many times! She was always just a lovely person, she loved show herself, was always happy and waging her long tail! I'm sure there will never be another Aussie like her.
Another special was young boy "Rio" CH Reimin Special Edition (bred by Mrs.Krista Riihelä, owned by breeder and Mrs.Henna Laine). I trained Rio when he was young, we also had a very great time. He was so happy, jumping, and got along very well with other dogs!  All of my friends have always love these two dogs too.

Is Junior Showmanship something you would recommend to your friends, why or why not?

Absolutely! You will find friends, get good advice and practicing for the future, a nice hobby with your dog!
Do you envision yourself being a breeder someday or is the show ring of more interest to you?
Exactly, I went to the "breeder course" last spring 2009. It's course for those who wanted to become breeders and get the official "kennel name". The Finnish Kennel Club requires this course to be done before you can register puppies under your kennel name. Well, I still haven't asked for my kennel name.. but maybe someday when I'm older, wiser and so on!
But to be honest the shows have always been more interesting, I love handling much much more right now. Perhaps those daydreams of breeding are just dreams. But you never know!

If you don't show Aussies anymore, but still show in Juniors, can you tell me what breed you prefer to show and why you are no longer showing Aussie Terriers?

When I was still junior, I competed a couple of times with other breeds. Some other Terriers, Poodles, Retrievers and  Spaniels.  But none of them could beat the Australian Terrier, my only love.

What advice would you give to someone new wanting to show as a Junior handler?
Take the time to follow competitions, how other handlers do their performances. Pay attention to the judge, and other competitors. Never treat the dogs as a "tool" for wins, it's your pet, friend and partner, don't let it down!  Make sure that dog has fun too during the competition. Believe in yourself as a handler, but always show the dog - not yourself!

What are you doing now Satu?

After my junior handling years, I have still been working with juniors. In our local youth section I'm training young and adult handlers for shows. Every year I organize a dog handler service at an international dog show in Lahti, our hometown. Every summer I'm teaching handling and other dog stuff to youngsters, age 10 to 17 at our summer camp.
I've also been course for ring stewards.  A couple of weeks ago I was invited to judge junior handler competition! which was very nice experience. During the year I travel around Finland handling dogs (most of them are Aussies bred & owned by my friends) that is the main interest and so it will be.

 Satu Collage 2
  "Puhti" CH Surely Sexbomb to BOB       "Pultti" CH Melukylän Gangsteripimu 
                                                                   winning District Championship 1st
I have gotten to know Satu and I must tell you, she is an exceptional young woman.  As you can see from her interview, her love for her dogs and for this breed is quite evident.  I think the advice she shared with us is an excellent reminder. Make sure our dogs are always our focus not ourselves. 
What a great testimony from Satu, who represented our youth so well by sharing her own Junior Handling experiences in showing the Australian Terrier. 
Thank you Satu for sharing your story. May you continue to enjoy this wonderful sport of showing dogs.
Until next month...


Dog Show Countdown

Shows Closing Wednesday June 2, 2010

Little Fort Kennel Club Of Waukegan - Friday June 18, 2010
Great Lakes All Terrier Association - Saturday June 19, 2010
Chain O'lakes Kennel Club - Sunday June 20, 2010

Shows Closing Wednesday June 9, 2010

Great Western Terrier Association Of Southern California - Saturday June 26 and  Sunday June 27, 2010

Ozzie Wall 4
Photo Courtesy of Dianne Wall "Ozzie"

Our Amazing Aussie-"Cody" Wilson

Cody Wilson
Photo Courtesy of Bonnie Wilson    "CODY"

The State of Oklahoma is not known for having Australian Terriers but it is known for severe weather. In the month of May that means tornado's.

Our Australian terrier has already experienced in his short life severe thunderstorms, high winds and several tornado drills. This particular afternoon we went about our preparations for the coming storms. I had the tornado shelter all ready, I fed the dogs dinner at 4:00. I had the dogs outside letting them go to the bathroom and running around thinking we could be in the shelter this evening.

As the clouds rolled in and the weather was getting really bad outside, I loaded the family, the geriatric Labrador and went back for last member, Cody our Aussie puppy. I called his name but he didn't come. As the rain whipped up into a frenzy and the hail was about to burst, the tornado siren is going off, I went around the corner and found Cody calmly stuck in the netting of our son's soccer goal. Cody was really wrapped up in the netting; head, legs, feet and all, just wagging his tail.
Calm as could be. The sounds of the siren were not even bothering him.

As the tornado sirens blared I ran back to the house, got my scissors and cut Cody to freedom. I scooped up our completely unaware Aussie pup and took him to the tornado shelter underground. Just as we got to the shelter, the hail came down full force and fortunately the tornado turned and went around us. I can attest to the fact that loud noise like hail wrecking havoc on our windows and roof did not even bother Cody!  As, the storm passes and we exited to survey the damage I was reminded why we chose the Australian terrier as a pet.

They are a tough, hardy dog that will always put a smile on your face. Cody ran around the yard playing joyfully with the golf ball sized hail and loving every minute of it! He was oblivious to the severe weather that just passed and happy to have the family together that stormy May Day.

Golf ball hail
 Photo Courtesy Of Bonnie Wilson Golf Ball Sized Hail


Kennel Names by Janet Maas

What's In A Name?
How you develop your kennel name can be difficult.  It is always best when it has special meaning to you and ideally you want it to be easy to remember.  The main goal is recognition, some of the most successful are the easiest to remember.  Even though I have not owned an Akita in 20 years I still know the name of the most successful Akita breeder at that time - OBJ owned by BJ Andrews. Often the name should be functional enough to cover many interest.
Another trick is to theme name your litters.  At Pat Hastings seminar the "Tricks of the Trade" she stated "You can get ten years recognition almost instantly by theme naming your puppies".  Some have stories behind their names, others have meanings and some are created!  I originally wrote this article back in the early 1990's so some of these kennels no longer exist but their stories are still interesting.  I would caution anyone just starting out in Aussies to thoroughly research the name they desire to use.  Imitation may not be the sincerest form of flattery and you certainly don't want to out and out appropriate someone's kennel name. That is not only in poor taste but is confusing to people in the breed.
Nancy Dieckmann chose Adnan as it is a combination of her name and her husbands.  She chose it as it reflects the interaction they have.  She says no matter what she wants to do he has stood in front of her, beside her, or ahead of her.  No matter the situation, the task, or the job.  He is always there and she feels that nothing would work without him as part of it.
Pamela Levy said  "As my first Aussie matured, I thought she looked and acted so regal. Her rough made her look like a lioness. I thought how aristocratic. After she was bred and I needed a kennel name I decided to shorten aristocratic and ended up with Arista.
Regina Swygert-Smith wrote "Our kennel name is Bilbrough, the name of a village just outside of the city of York in England. In the late 1980s, Michael and I ended a long business trip to London with 2 weeks of driving through northern England and Scotland--this was pre-terriers so no thought of kennel prefixes, or indeed terriers. By happenstance, we ended up spending our first night out at one of those incredibly wonderful English country inns, Bilbrough Manor, where the butler greeted you on the stone parking lot and took your luggage up to your room. Of all things, there was a tiny chapel just down the drive that we were directed to...and what did we find? A large stone tomb for none other than Lord Fairfax, who "founded" Virginia! That and the extraordinary food--the chef at Bilbrough Manor had just been named the Outstanding Young Chef of the Year--assured that we would never forget our stay or the name. (And we returned at the end of the journey for one more night of luxury.) A year or so later, we moved to the Virginia countryside from Washington, DC--still without terriers--and named our little 11 acres of woods, Bilbrough. When our first litter was born on March 7, 1995, the obvious kennel name was the name of the property these three little girls were born on."
Terrier judge, Judy Franklin said,  "My first partner in dogs (Miniature Schnauzers at the time and later we added the Kerrys and Smooths) was from Ireland, Maureen Thomann.  She wanted to name it after a small flowering tree in Ireland, the Blackthorn - the wood is used to make  shillelaghs and the flowers to make sloe gin!  We both thought it very fitting for Terriers! Think bar brawls!"
Grace Cartwright is fairly new to breeding dogs but has a wonderful story for her kennel name.  "I got a little red boy from Sabine Baker (Aussome Aussies) after Hurricane Isabel.  We were cleaning up all the debris and had a burn pit going. It was the first day that little guy was at the my house and it was late. The fire had burned down to just coals and it was time to go in for the night.  I called him "Puppy, puppy, puppy" to get him to follow us in. He made a beeline directly for us, right through the firepit! Freaking out, I picked him up and checked him for injury. Not a blister or singed hair in sight! Thus the name of my kennel was born "Firewalker" and we called him "Flame". He is the foundation stud for my kennel."
Kim Floyd answered, "several years ago my children, John and Amanda, were raising and showing exotic birds. Filling out the entry forms became very cumbersome so we combined the names and started using Johmanda's Aviary.  The kids and birds are now gone but the name worked so well for the bird shows that I decided to continue to use it as a screen name and now a 'kennel' name." 
Ulla-Britt Norgren told this story,  "I had my kennel name, Vitterklippens, planned out from the very beginning. I never even considered anything else.The name Vitterklippens kennel really means the kennel from Vitterklippen. Vitterklippen is one of the small mountains we have behind our house. I fell for the name since Vitterklippen refers to an old folk's tale. In Sweden we used to believe in vittra, a small people, a kind of hobgoblin, who lived beneath the ground and could be quite malicious when feeling slighted. Klippen is an older Swedish word for a small mountain or a cliff. The mixing of folk tale and geographical location was something I felt appealing.
From Australia all breed judge Patricia McLeod wrote "Mine is Tighgum. It was supposedly the original aboriginal name for Cabbage Tree Creek. The creek formed the rear boundary of our property in Aspley, Brisbane. I believe it was the native word for the lawyer cane vine which they used to make baskets."
An Australian Kennel of old had an interesting story. 
When I asked Mel McMurry she told me the wonderful story behind Bearstep.  She grew up in Arizona riding horses and was met and befriended by a Shoshoni Indian Chief.  Chief Bearstep raised Appaloosas and taught Mel about horses.  In addition to being an artist he was the model for many pictures of an Indian Chief sitting atop an Appaloosa. He always insisted Mel call him Pap Bear.  About the time she started breeding dogs he passed away.  He was such a great influence she wanted to honor him my naming her dogs Bearstep.
Last, my own.  I started out over 20 years ago with an Akita.  I wanted something similar but smaller and started researching Shiba Inu.  At the time I worked for a Japanese company and was reading the biography of the founder of Sony.  Sony was a "made up" word that meant nothing in any language.  That appealed to me. I combined Akita and Shiba and came up with Akiba and at that time could not find any reference to it in any language.  Years later I found the name in a Rhodesian Ridgeback pedigree and discovered it was Swahili and its meaning was to save and reserve for the future or renewal.  I thought that was still kind of cool and since I had visited Africa and loved it I thought it kind of fit.  Thanks to the Internet today I have learned it is also Japanese slang for "geek"! 

Please share your Kennel name meaning or history and we will print it.

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Legislation Changes - Know Your Laws

New Orleans City Council Adopts A Mandatory Spay/Neuter and Microchipping

UPDATE:  The New Orleans City Council unanimously adopted an ordinance on May 6th, establishing spay/neuter requirements as well as permits for intact dogs.

The Issue.
The New Orleans City Council has introduced an ordinance establishing spay/neuter requirements as well as permits for intact dogs.
The Impact.
The proposed ordinance would require owners or keepers to spay/neuter all dogs over six months old. Owners or keepers would be allowed to obtain an "intact dog permit" if the owner or keeper chooses not to spay/neuter from the Louisiana Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.  In order to obtain a permit an owner or keeper must submit a permit application to the Society, pay an initial $10 permit application fee plus the $20 annual permit fee.  The annual renewal fee for permits will be $20 and is due by January 1st of each year.  In order for the Society to grant an intact dog permit, owners or keepers must submit adhere to the following conditions:
Submit the appropriate forms and fees as required by the Society, including a written description of the dog, a photo of the dog and a photo of the dogs living conditions;
Proof the dog has been microchipped (i.e. include the registered microchip number on the application);
Proof of current vaccinations for rabies, distemper and parvo virus;
Not allow female dogs to breed before reaching 18 months old;
Not allow female dogs to have more than one litter per year;
If a permit is permitted, owners or keepers must display the permit number when advertising puppies for sale/adoption; and
No animal under six weeks old may be sold, given away or adopted.
The ordinance also provides fines for those who fail to comply with the permit requirements listed above. Fines for a first violation can be up to $100 per dog, second violation up to $250 per dog and a third violation would result in impoundment and fines of up to $500 per dog.
If a permit is not renewed on time, permittees will be subject to a $10 per day late fee and if not renewed within 15 days of the annual expiration a first violation will be issued.
Exemptions to obtaining permits include:
The dog is under six months;
A licensed veterinarian certifies that the dog should not be spayed/neutered for a specific health reason. The certificate must include the veterinarian's license number and the date by which the dog may be spayed/neutered, if ever.
The dog has been present in New Orleans for less than 30 days;
The owner has obtained, or submitted an application for, an intact dog permit; or
The dog is used by a government or law enforcement entity for government, rescue, law enforcement or other purposes.

Dog Breeders To Face Fee Changes in Louisiana

UPDATE:  HB 313 passed the Senate on May 24th and will be sent to Governor for signature.
The Issue:
Louisiana House Bill 313 changes dog kennel license fee levels set forth in current law from a maximum fee to a minimum fee, therefore allowing a municipality or parish to set fees as high as they wish.
The Impact:
Current Louisiana law states that owners or keepers of five or more dogs must obtain a kennel license and pay a kennel license fee.  Presently, the governing body of each municipality or parish is permitted to set the amount for the annual kennel license fee at not more than $15 if a person has no more than five dogs over the age of six months, $25 for five to 10 dogs, and $30 for more than 10 dogs.
House Bill 313 would eliminate language in that statute making these fee levels the maximum which could be charged, and instead set such fee levels as the minimum to be charged.  By changing the language and removing the cap, there would be a limit on how high governing bodies of municipalities and parishes would be allowed to raise the individual fee levels.

Illinois Amends Humane Care For Animals Act To Include Tethering

UPDATE:  SB 2580 passed the Senate on April 8th and currently sits in the House Committee on Agriculture & Conservation awaiting committee action. 
The Issue.
Illinois Senate Bill 2580 proposes to amend the state "Humane Care for Animals Act" by adding tethering guidelines.
The Impact.
This legislation defines "tether" as "to restrain a dog by tying it to any object or structure, including without limitation a house, tree, fence, post, garage, shed, or clothes line, by any means, including without limitation a chain, rope, cord, leash, or running line".
The Act would be amended by restricting that a dog may be tethered outdoors only if all of the following requirements are met:

The dog must be visible to the responsible party;
The dog must be tethered in such a manner as to prevent injury, including strangulation;
The dog must be at least six months of age;
The dog must not suffer from illness or injury that is exacerbated by being tethered;
The dog must have access at all times to drinking water, shelter, and a dry surface;
If multiple dogs are tethered on the same property, each dog must be tethered separately, and each dog must have a separate food and water bowl. Each dog must also have access to separate shelter. If multiple dogs are tethered, sufficient space must be placed between the leads to ensure that the leads do not tangle;
The lead must not exceed one-eighth of the dog's body weight and must not be made of a tow chain or log chain, which is any chain that is more than one-quarter of an inch in width;
The lead must be 15 feet or longer in length.
The lead must be attached to the dog by a properly-fitting collar and must not wrap directly around the dog's neck. Pinch, prong, or choke-type collars shall not be used to tether a dog; and
The length and location of the lead must prevent the dog from moving outside of its owner's property.

Also, even if the above requirements are met it shall be unlawful to tether a dog outdoors: 
between the hours of 10 p.m. and 6 a.m.; and
during extreme weather conditions, including conditions in which a heat or wind chill advisory or a severe weather warning has been issued for the jurisdiction by the National Weather Service.

Any person found in violation of these requirements is guilty of a Class A misdemeanor.  A second or subsequent violation is a Class 4 felony with every day that a violation continues constituting a separate offense.  If the convicted person is a juvenile or a companion animal hoarder, the court must order the convicted person to undergo a psychological or psychiatric evaluation and to undergo treatment that the court determines to be appropriate after due consideration of the evaluation.

Nightclub for Pooches Opens in New York


Prince rocking out
Photo Courtesy Of Cheryl Mechalke


Manhattan mutts will soon have a place to shake their tails on a Friday night -- the Fetch Club.
The 3,000-foot indoor dog park/canine club slated to open next month in the heart of the Financial District will be tricked out with sybaritic amenities synonymous with Wall Street: special spa baths, holistic mud masks and facials, homemade meals, manicures -- and even a doggie disco.

"If an owner wants to go out one night, they can drop their dog off at our nightclub," said owner Peter Balestrieri, who hopes to even outfit the doggie dance club with a disco ball.

"We're serious about the well-being of animals, but we also want them to have fun," said co-owner Jenna Lee, a former finance worker now taking veterinary courses.
The more sedate canines can swing by Fetch Club during the day for playtime (chasing tennis balls), movie hour (classics like "101 Dalmatians" and "Lassie"), trot on a tiny treadmill (that has a TV), or just play on the 3,000-foot dog run in the back of the massive space -- for $35 a day.

Inside the renovated space at 85 John St. -- a 200-year-old former tobacco factory -- will be a high-end boutique with doggie clothes and toys, plus a "human lounge" where owners can grab a coffee, use an iPad to check e-mail, and watch their pampered pooches play.

"The dogs are our clients, so all our services are geared to them," said Lee, who plans to offer daily homemade entrées to owners who don't want their dogs eating commercial pet food.


The Aging Aussie Part 3 by Heather Rife

This 3 part series was written by Heather Rife, DVM and reflects her experiences in over 25 years of veterinary medicine. She graduated from Kansas State University in 1985 and owns her veterinary clinic in East Haven, Connecticut. The articles reflect her experiences and opinions only. We recommend that you always consult your health care professional prior to instituting any changes in the care of your dogs.

Please note that Part 3 will be in July's issue.

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Theresa Goiffon puppy
Photo Courtesy of Theresa Goiffon





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