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Feature Article: The Safety (or Not!) of Skin Care Products
Most of us assume that the government is carefully scrutinizing the safety of the ingredients in our skin care products that we use daily. However, cosmetic products and ingredients are not subject to FDA pre-market approval, with the exception of color additives. Cosmetic firms are responsible for substantiating the safety of their products and ingredients before marketing.
"The regulatory requirements governing the sale of cosmetics are not as stringent as those that apply to other FDA-regulated products. Manufacturers may use any ingredient or raw material, except for color additives and a few prohibited substances, to market a product without a government review or approval." (From the FDA website)
The skin - which is the largest organ in the body - is a two-way membrane. Toxins are eliminated through the skin via perspiration and absorbed through the skin into the body's systemic circulation through hair follicles and sebaceous glands. One square inch of skin contains 65 hairs, 100 sebaceous glands and 650 sweat glands. It is said that the body absorbs 70% of whatever is applied to the skin.
Every day the average person is using up to 10 products or more on their bodies including shampoo, toothpaste, soap, deodorant, hair conditioners, lip balm, sunscreen, body lotion, shaving products and cosmetics. The chemical doses in these products may seem minute but the total number of chemicals that we apply to our skin, the multiple exposures to these chemicals, and their synergistic effects increases their potential impact upon our health.
There is growing concern over the long-term health effects of the synthetic chemicals being used in cosmetic products. Parabens (which are used as preservatives) and phthalates (which are used to add texture and luster) have been identified in over 100 studies to disrupt both male and female hormone functions. To make things even more difficult for consumers, the current labeling laws contain a "trade secret" loophole that allows the use of generic terms such as "fragrance" rather than identifying actual ingredients. Many synthetic fragrances contain phthalates. There is concern over the impact of these chemicals related to their negative effect on the male reproductive system, as well as their impact on wildlife, rivers and streams as these chemicals are washed off our bodies and flushed down our toilets.
 The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics is asking cosmetic companies to sign the Compact for Safe Cosmetics, a pledge to not use toxic chemicals and to make safer, reformulated products readily available in the US and in every market they serve. More than 300 companies have signed the Compact to date including those companies whose products we offer (see below). Visit their website for further information at www.safecosmetics.org. While this pact is a step in the right direction, it is only a pledge to remove certain harmful substances and does not guarantee that the signer's current products are safe.
All of the companies whose products we offer at Walsh Natural Health have cosigned the Compact with the exception of Dr. Hauschka Skin Care which already conforms to the rigorous European standards (recommended in the Compact) and has been using safe ingredients exclusively no matter where their products are sold. Dr. Hauschka Skin Care products also follow the more stringent Guidelines for Natural Cosmetics of the BDIH, a European organization of natural cosmetics manufacturers, which surpass those outlined in the Safe Cosmetics Pledge.
Check the ingredients in the products you use. An excellent reference to have on hand is a little book that we have at the store called Dying to Look Good by Christine Hoza Farlow, D.C., which succinctly and simply discusses the concern with skin products and the safety of individual ingredients. This book will have much of the information listed below and is great to have on hand when you are checking out a product. Another source is www.ewg.org/skin deep , a not-for -profit environmental watch dog group that has a database with safety ratings on over 50,000 skin care products. In general, ingredients are listed in descending order of their quantity in the product. A general rule is to divide the list in thirds:
- the top third contains about 90-95% of the product
- the middle third usually around 5-8%
- and the bottom third, 1-3%.
Below are some of the natural alternatives to synthetic chemicals that you can look for in skin care products:
Emollients: Emollients are used to prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as a barrier and healing agent. Natural emollients are metabolized by the skin's own enzymes and absorbed into the skin. They are readily biodegradable and are of edible quality. Examples of natural emollients are plant oils such as jojoba, avocado and rosehip, as well as shea, cocoa and jojoba butters. Examples of synthetic emollients are PEG compounds; synthetic alcohols (anything containing the phrase benzyl, butyl, cetearyl, cetyl, glyceryl, and stearyl for example); hydrocarbons such as mineral oil, petrolatum and paraffin; and silicone oils (dimethicome, cyclomethione, copolyol).
Humectants: A humectant is a substance that is used to preserve the moisture content of materials especially in hand cremes and lotions. Many conventional creams form a suffocating film on the skin to prevent moisture loss. Examples of natural humectants are lecithin, panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) and glycerin. Some synthetic humectants are propylene glycol, ethylene/diethylene glycol, PEG compounds, ethoxylated surfactants such as "laureth", and synthetic alcohols such as glyceryl coconate, hydroxystearate, myristate and oleate.
Surfactants: These are wetting agents capable of dissolving oils and holding dirt in suspension so it can be rinsed away with water. Some natural surfactants are castile soap, yucca extract, soapwort and quilaja bark extract. Examples of synthetic surfactants are sodium or ammonium lauryl or laureth, sulphate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl or cocoyl sarcosinate, TEA, DEA, MEA, PEG (polyethylene glycol) compounds and lauryl or cocoyl sarcosine.
Preservatives: Skin products do not last forever nor should they. Just like food, all natural skin care products will eventually deteriorate and go rancid. Some natural preservatives are tea tree essential oil, thyme essential oil, grapefruit seed extract and bitter orange extract. Storing natural products in the fridge will help to extend their life. Examples of synthetic preservatives are methyl, propyl, butyl and ethyl paraben; DMDM hydantoin; benzalkonium chloride; butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT); and butylated hudroxyanisole (BHA).
After you check your products for synthetic ingredients you may want to consider whether the ingredients are organic. In 2005, the US Department of Agriculture's National Organic Program declared that its strict organic food standards can now be applied to personal care products. In order to use the Agriculture Department seal, licensed certifiers must examine formulas and determine that at least 95% of the ingredients are organic. More products will most likely be labeled "made with organic" ingredients which require that at least 70% of the ingredients are organic. However what may be confusing to consumers is that some products could possibly use "organic" in their trademark names without even meeting the lower standard for ingredient content. This is because the preamble of the regulations states that the word organic "does not inherently imply an organic production or handling claim and, thus, does not inherently constitute a false or misleading statement." Therefore, a brand name for a product may be called "Perfect Organics" and there may be nothing organic about it!
At Walsh, we are concerned about the quality and safety of our skin care products. We are proud to offer our customers products from such companies as Dr. Hauschka, Weleda, Grateful Body, Suki, Collective WellBeing and Fiji and plan to add additional body care products that meet our standards for high-quality products with "clean", effective ingredients. We also know that the beauty and health of the skin is also dependent on the nourishment and balance of the body within.
"Your beauty, and all that you do to make yourself more beautiful, can change the world. This is part of the remarkable and mysterious nature of beauty. Ultimately, it is linked to everything we do. It helps shape our world."
- Awakening Beauty by Susan West Kurtz, President of Dr. Hauschka Skin Care, Inc. |
Advantages to using remineralization include better crop yields, more insect-resistant plants, less reliance on synthetic pesticides derived from petrochemicals, lower costs and ultimately, healthier food. World renowned chef Alice Waters is an advocate of remineralization and currently grows 70 fruits and vegetables for her famous Chez Panisse restaurant with this method. To learn more about remineralization and how to support it world-wide, go to 
