When to apply Structure?
I know we should put in structure last when ironing, but I haven't heard whether it makes a difference when we're roto-ing or just hand corking.
It is suggeted that you apply hand structure to a ski after applying any pure fluoro and many other glide waxes. This is suggested because the heat of the waxing process would warm the base which then expands and removes the pressed-in hand structure from the ski. For roto corking and hand corking you do not develop as much heat so the structure may remain after the process. So you can apply the structure first, then cork or roto fleece. But, as with any process, you can add more strutcure after the corking ( or ironing) if necessary. It is always better to add the structure at the end than to have the to little structure.
Cold Hands Followup
I saw some earlier posts about cold hands in Anchorage, and thought it might not be too late to toss in my two bits. I frostbit my hands ski patrolling at Berthoud Pass in the Sixties, and my fingers have been sensitive ever since - including 31 years up here as an active nordic skier (track and bc).
(1) Hot drinks. I sometimes carry a thermos with tea or even hot water to drink before I start my ski. And warm or not, I've heard that good hydration can help avoid chilly hands (though I'm not sure why). (2) Liner gloves. Before I leave the house I put on a pair of thin liner gloves with a sticky rubber palm, and I leave them on while I'm driving and fiddling with gear. The goal is to never expose my hands to cold air or even a cold steering wheel. (3) Start warm. I used to dress on the cool side with the expectation of heating up later. Now I dress warm at the beginning and shed a layer if necessary. I'll stuff that layer in a fanny pack or back pocket, or tie it around my waist. Not cool looking but the goal is warm hands. (4) Vests. For that extra layer of warm clothes, a light vest makes more difference than I'd have thought. I use a wool pullover base layer or a wool full-zip midlayer. (5) Zip-T with thumb loops. You can lose heat around your neck and wrists. I wear zip-Ts that fit my neck. I use the ones with thumb loops so there's no gap around my wrist. (6) Glove-friendly poles. I use fitted straps when I can, but I also have a pair of skate poles and a pair of classic poles with old-school loop straps. With these I can wear big gloves or mittens. Sure, I lose some pole feel and style points, but once upon a time that's all I had anyway, and if it keeps me out there skiing, so what? (6) Little Hotties. My wife has used these for years but I spurned them. I ended up with some gloves that had a zip pocket for them and gave them a try. They help.
Thanks for SkiPost - I'm a faithful reader and have used many of your technique, gear, and waxing tips.
Using hard wax, we often do a hard-over, putting the softer wax underneath as cushion and using the colder on top so it doesn't ice, and then might wear away as the day warms, snow gets warmer.
Is the same process ever used with klister? We have a 26K race that basically does the Gold Rush course this weekend, starting cold, going up high, but ending in warmer snow. Would putting a layer of KR40 OVER Universal be something that would work, or does putting a harder klister over a softer one lead to problems?
Using the method for hard wax is proven and definitely works. It works mainly because you do not need to use heat (ie-heat gun or torch) when applying hardwax covers. So, one is able to cover or "shell" a colder hard wax over a warmer hard wax without mixing them, provided they are careful when corking and smoothing the cover layer.
I would be very hesitant to try the combination of a harder klister over a softer one. I think the biggest issue would be that the two will end up being mixed anyway because of the necessary heat needed to smooth the KR40 over the K21n or K22n for example. Also, I think that the KR40 might not wear as much as it is needed to over the lower and colder part of the course and the universal will not be exposed enough to get the proper kick as it warms up. And, that is a lot of klister layers, which would increase the chance for getting too much klister on the ski.
Instead, I think you could offer the following solutions, 1. after applying the klister base and letting it cool, apply a harder klister (ie-KR40) in the front part of the wax pocket. So, lets say that the front part of the pocket, from the binding forward to the front of the kick zone is 35cm long. You could apply the KR40 in the first 10-15cm of the pocket and then K22n univ back from there. Having the KR40 in the front part will keep the ski free and protect the universal behind it in the harder, more abrasive snow conditions.
2. Mix the KR40 and the universal. Again, the ratio mixture of KR40:K22n would be equal or close to equal (1:1) in the front part of the kick zone and as you moved down the zone and under the foot of the skier, the ratio would be more K22n than KR40, (1:2 or 1:3) mixture.
The most important thing I can suggest here is to stress the importance of making sure the klister layer has cooled and set up properly before skiing on it. This is the biggest mistake that people make, they apply the klister, but do not give it enough time to cool before skiing on it. It then ices up and game over.
Swix Nordic Racing Director
Turnover vs. Glide
Question: Related to the glide question you addressed. I find I am developing a very fast side to side movement as I get faster and more fit skating, almost like in running when you move quickly from one ski to another. Am I missing something by not staying on each ski as long as possible? My skis are almost parallel skiing the flats and I'm well weighted on each ski. I did watch some Olympians last round of Olympics moving quickly from ski to ski, at least on the uphills.
Dave it is fine to increase tempo if you are doing it at your choosing rather than at your lack of balance's choosing. Olympians have a quick tempo but they also have complete weight transfer in every stride. They go to the next ski after gliding balanced on one ski and then driving to the next ski. Many of us rush from ski to ski because we do not have good weight transfer and never rest and recover on a gliding ski. We rush to the next ski to stop us from falling down. If this is you it is better to work on a slower turnover with complete weight transfer to each skate ski, balancing, gliding and then a dedicated drive to the next ski. Repeat. Worry about temo after you now learn to transfer weight and glide on each side.
I had the pleasure working with Olympian, National Champion, 5th at World Championships, Birkie Champion. you name it champion, Carl Swenson. One of his nicknames was "Glide" because he spent so much time gliding on each ski. So I say learn how to Glide first, worry about Turnover second.
Andy at SkiPost
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Ski poles are perhaps the most overlooked aspect of a cross-country ski racer's equipment. People comment on their ski's or boot's weight but too often disregard the extra grams on their ski pole choice. But, while your skis and boots glide across the snow over the majority of a race course, your poles only go forward if you are lifting, swinging or carrying them. For many people their technique is hindered by their ability to quickly start their next pole plant.
The most important pole shaft properties are weight, swing weight, stiffness, and strength. While overall weight is exactly what it says, swing weight refers to the pendulum motion of each pole stroke and how more weight near the pole tip requires more energy from the skier. The stiffer the pole the more of your energy goes into forward movement and the less into bending the pole. Strength refers to the durability of the pole.
Of all these properties overall weight is the most important and easiest to compare. Skiers average around 40 pole plants per minute. If you and a friend plan on skiing a 3.5-hour marathon and your friend uses Triac's and you have CT4's, you are lifting an additional 3 oz. per stroke. If in each stroke you move your pole 5 feet you will be moving an additional 7777 ft-lbs during the race! This is equivalent to curling 1 gallon of milk in both hands over 450 times. Will you still beat your friend?
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"Once and Again"
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Tour de Meissner 15km Nordic Race and Tour
Bend Oregon - February 12, 2011
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Train and learn from with Nordic Combined Olympic Medalist
At the Home Ranch cross country ski resort in Clark, Colorado, just 18 miles north of Steamboat Spring. Ski, train, dine and relax with an Olympian at one of the most luxurious cross country ski resorts in North America. This February 8th -12th, 2011, Nordic-combined Olympic medalist and world champion Todd Lodwick will host his first Luxury Nordic Ski Camp at The Home Ranch, the beloved Relais and Chateaux ski ranch in Clark, Colorado. Special Promotional Price For SkiPost Skiers: The Home Ranch is offering the Todd Lodwick Nordic Camp to Ski Post skiers for $295.00, per person, per day +tax and charges.
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