I noticed that you have some turning accessories section on your website. I thought I would pass this site along to you to take a look at:
http://www.thingswestern.com/3.html
Joe Rollings is in New Mexico in a tiny town near the New Mexico and Arizona state line. I found him on the web when I was searching for Lathe tools. I wanted a carbide tip on them because as I told you, my sharpening skills are almost non-existent. Any way I bought his round and square tipped lathe tools. They look a little funny because he puts golf club handles on the his tools. Don't let this fool you, they are very nice to use. He claims to make the tools but I have not verified that fact. The carbide he purchases. The most important part is these tools are amazing. Comfortable to hold and weighted enough to take very little pressure to keep them on the tool rest. I took a chance on them and I am very pleased. The part I liked most was his standard carbide tools are $59.00 each. He also has some shorter tools for Pen turning at $44.00 each and all have carbide tips. He also stocks the replacement carbide parts as well. I liked him right off because he says the tools have a life time warranty. But he is careful to point out that it is his lifetime not yours. He says he is around 65 so you should have a few years of warranty left. Anyway Maybe you might like to stock some of the tools, or point people towards him if you have someone ask for turning tools. The best part is they are carbide, they are very well made, and they are "not" $100 to $200 bucks a piece. Bob
I have passed this information along from one of our customers. I am not a proponent of Carbide tools because I like to customize my own grind to suit my personal needs and the needs of the job at hand. Carbide cannot be resharpened without a very specialized and very expensive green stone. But, if that is what you prefer then here is the information.
Hi,
I thought I'd share a fix with you from a problem I was having.
I was turning some Slimline pen blanks made from solid surface (like Corian).
I was having some problems with the blanks cracking when pressing the hardware into place--about 20% of them. But yet, 80% of them worked just fine.
So, my conclusion was that the inside diameter of the tubes were not exactly the same from one tube to another.
I took one of my blanks to NAPA and found a small slightly tapered round bastard file that the tubes would fit part way onto the file.
When I got home, I chucked the file into my drill and gauged how far the file needs to be inserted into the tube by using one of the tubes that worked without reaming it out.
I marked the perfect stopping place with some White-out on the round file so any and all tubes could be reamed to that point after I am finished turning the blanks.
I now do this on all my turned Slimline blanks just prior to pressing the hardware in, and now I have 99.9% success with the Corian blanks not cracking.
Paul
When I use Corian, I always press in the parts and then knock them back out before gluing in the tube. This stretches the brass tube to accept the parts again later without expanding the tube inside the non-forgiving Corian. Apply a little CA glue to the parts before pressing them in again to ensure that they will come come out.