Wood-N-Whimsies Newsletter
JULY 2012
WHAT'S ON SALE THIS MONTH:

For our Newsletter Subscriber Only:
15% Off our 20ft. Sanding Roll Assortment.  Use "ASR215" in the Coupon Code Box at Checkout 
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We are still closing out the Dymondwood.  Many colors are already gone and several other are in short supply.
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Poly Pearl Pen Blank of the Month:
"Red Velvet"
1-49 $2.36 each
50+ $1.99 each
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Inlay Blank of the Month:
"Bass"
$16.50 each
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Our Replica Snake Skin Blanks - Any Color are $4.25 for the Monet single Blank and $9.25 for the Cigar blank Set
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3/4" Jobillo Pen Blanks
$1.50 each
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1" Lignum Vitae Pen Blanks
$2.10 each
Greetings!
      Summer is here and things have slowed down a bit
Dink has been helping out with the clean-up efforts.
Dink says, "Be sure to be safe. Keep your tools sharp and always wear your safety glasses".
for us; we have had more time for research and development. Tracey has been back at it at the laser machine and is very busy making some new inlay blanks. I have been experimenting with some ideas to use polyester resin  but so far I have spent a ton of money and have not made much progress. I guess great new things will always cost time and money to get out of the gate.
     I have a few new laser inlay blank patterns I am working on but have quite ways to go with them. When you have to edit line art patterns at the pixel level, it takes time and after you spend all that time, sometimes it still is not right.
     That's what had been going on with the Submarine Dolphins pictured above and why it has taken so long to perfect. I thought I had it and then I find out that it just does not work as drawn----Back to the drawing board. 
 
Tracey's Two Cents Worth:
    Please don't be afraid of the Skew!  As I started doing more Inlays, I would get very impatient waiting for Tim to turn my prototypes for me so I could see what needed to be tweaked.   Finally I asked him to show me how to use the Skew thingie.
     Well needless to say my first couple of tries left me saying "This thing is for the birds!!!"  But really, I just tried a few more times on some scrap wood, had a few more catches and it really did get easier every time.
     So many videos show you all this fancy stuff to do with a skew which I agree can be overwhelming. I watch Tim wield that thing around and get a little overwhelmed sometimes. However, the basic straight line to turn your inlay is not complicated and can be learned quickly.  I don't turn all the time so it's not like I'm saying oh yeah it's easy because I've spent a ton of hours learning it.
     Right now I basically turn when I want to test an inlay and as you can see I don't put a new inlay out every day. Don't be intimidated, just get some practice wood and give it a try.  I think you will be surprised at how quickly you will actually be successful at it.
     One very important tip, I've found that it's so much easier when you have a nice sharp Skew.  I had Tim teach me how to use the Tormek sharpening system.  I think that takes more time to get the hang of than using a skew!  I actually made a video of Tim setting up and sharpening a Skew and refer back to it if I get confused.
     Hopefully we can get Tim to do a video next month of how to use a Skew for the basic straight line for the newsletter. It's as easy as ABC once you know the basics.
Tormek T-7
TECH TALK

Everything I try to turn will not cut right, It's all breaking apart and splintering up, what's wrong? More than likely the root of your problem is a dull or improperly sharpened chisel.
     There have been many new prospective turners who have given up on the art of wood turning because they thought that they could just not do it right. The real reason for their dismay is that they were trying to make smooth and delicate cuts with a dull chisel or a chisel with a bad grind on it. I'm here to tell you, a dull chisel will ruin your project and your day.
      Several options are available to get your chisels sharp and get you back on the right track. Pictured above is the Cadillac of sharpening systems. It is the Tormek T-7. This can be purchased from several outlets on the internet and probably at a local walk in store near you who specializes in wood turning supplies. No matter where you look to buy it, everyone sells the basic set-up and the optional jigs for the same price. The price is determined by the manufacturer and must be sold for the set price. Someone on Ebay or Etsy may be trying to unload one cheap though. You may get a good deal on a used one.
     I shop around to see who is going to give me free shipping or toss in a nice goody if I buy it from them. With the basic set-up plus the wood turners kit it will run you a little over $900.00. Warning, there are a couple of knock offs to this rig for sale that look like they will work just as well. I speak from personal experience, they are flimsy inadequate junk compared to the Tormek.
     The huge advantage of the Tormek Sharpening System is that you can sharpen a chisel exactly the same every time without altering your bevel and have the same repetitive edge each and every time (No More Multi-Faceted Tool edges). Your chisels will last much longer if you don't have to recreate a new edge every time you sharpen. If you are like me and have a tough time sharpening a kitchen knife properly, then this rig will make you a pro.
Slow speed bench grinder set up with two TOR-BMG100 bench grinder mounts. 
     With additional optional jigs, you can sharpen everything from your pocket knife to your scissors to the lawn mower blade with professional results the first time every time.
     Tormek sells a less expensive alternative which is the T-3. The difference is the amount of time you can run the machine without overheating it. With the T-3 you have about 20-30 minutes before you must let the machine cool down for about an hour. The T-7 can be ran continuously without worry of overheating.       A less expensive alternative which will give you similar results is to set your existing 8 inch or 10 inch bench grinder up with the Tormek Mounting for Bench Grinder. The item number is TOR-BGM100.
     In the photo, I have two of them which are mounted in reverse to each other on a slow speed grinder. To use it you will also need to purchase the Tormek Gouge Jig and the Multi Jig for your skew chisels and roughing gouges along with the turning tool setter. This rig is also great for creating you own custom grinds. To recreate a new grind on a new chisel, the Tormek T-7/T-3 will do it but will take the better part of an afternoon to hone the steel with it's 250 grit stone. With the T-3 it may be a long afternoon with the cool down waits. With the 80 grit stone on my homemade rig I can recreate my own custom edge in just a few minutes and then take it to the Tormek T-7/T3 and duplicate the grind angle exactly for the finishing touches and edge polishing.
     I have the slow speed grinder set up with an 80 grit wheel on the right and a diamond wheel on the left for a finer edge. A leather strop can be used to smooth off the edge for a razor sharp tool.
     Another rig which is an excellent choice is the Wolverine Woodturners Sharpening Kit. This rig is mounted to the bench under your bench grinder and
Wolverine Woodturners Sharpening Kit on a slow speed grinder. 
will produce a very nice edge. The disadvantage is that you will probably not be able to recreate the exact same edge every time unless you never move your settings, that's just not practical since the chisel will get shorter every time you sharpen it.
      At least that's how it worked for me, I usually had to redo the edge every time I used it which was very often. I sharpen my chisels before every project and usually have to touch up the edge with a leather strop several times during the project. I like sharp tools.
     All in all though it is a very nice rig, I had one that I used for years before upgrading. I recently sold it and as far as I know, the person I sold it to is still using it and is very happy with it.
     This system can be purchased from WoodCraft for about $240.00 plus the shipping costs assuming you already have an eight or ten inch bench grinder. Do not try to use this system with a smaller grinder, it just will not perform correctly and your hollow grind will be too hollow for effective (ride the bevel) use.
SharpFast Tool Guide System 
     The least expensive production sharpening jig I have found and will endorse as a good buy is the SharpFast Tool Guide System. This rig is not for sharpening straight or flat edges which most folks have no problem with (I personally do). It is used to create and hone the edge of your bowl and spindle gouges.
     Unless you have a very steady hand and years of expertise, putting a usable edge on a spindle  or fingernail gouge is nearly impossible. I have had to redo many tool edges for other fellow turner buddies who live around here who try to get off cheap and sharpen their spindle and bowl gouges by hand on a bench grinder. What a mess!
     We sell this rig here at Wood-N-Whimsies for $99.95. I believe that this is probably the most competitive price you will find for it. If your only trouble sharpening is with bowl and spindle gouges then this is the rig for you. Again, you will have to provide your own grinder.
     Since we are on the subject of sharpening and since the grinder is an absolute must let me throw in my two cents worth about that.
     Use a slow speed grinder to sharpen your high speed steel chisels. I have two
Slow speed bench grinder. 
bench grinders in my shop. One is a slow speed grinder from WoodCraft which is pictured at the right which I have had for about eight years. The other is a Variable Speed Porter-Cable (PC). I have the PC now set up as a buffer with the guards removed. The variable speed feature works well for buffing out both metal, which requires a faster speed, and also for buffing acrylic and plastic which the faster speeds would melt. I used to use the PC for sharpening too before I bought the slow speed machine.
Porter-Cable Variable Speed Bench Grinder. 
     The slow speed machine is available at WoodCraft for about $125.00 and is often on sale for around $99.00. I recently saw it on sale for $99.00 and free shipping. That was a great deal and I'm sure they will have it again.
     The PC came from Lowes. I bought it about twelve years ago and do not recall what I paid for it but the new ones cost around $120.00. Like I said, mine is about twelve years old and is still going strong. As for the light on it, don't bother putting bulbs in it unless you bolt the machine down to your bench with some vibration dampening material between the machine and the bench. It does vibrate quite a bit and is not nearly as smooth as the slow speed machine.
     Try not to let the steel on your chisel get too hot during sharpening. Constant overheating and quick cooling will make the steel very hard and brittle at first and then it will get irreversibly softer. This softening of the steel is called annealing and will severely shorten the lives of your chisels. Full speed grinders are very good at heating the steel too much too fast. This is why I recommend a slow speed grinder. However, even a slow speed grinder can overheat the steel if you are too aggressive.
     I have tried to include an array of options, I'm sure that some of you have a way that works best for you which I have not addressed. If you think you have a really great homemade sharpening system and it would benefit other turners then please write and send us an article about it. If all the facts are there and it seems practical then I will be sure to put it into our next newsletter in the feedback section. Pictures are good too. 
WHAT'S NEW

Our Poly Pearl selection has grown, Please check out the new colors and see what you think. These blanks are made from Polyester Resin, (Silmar41), and can be somewhat aggravating to turn without chipping.
      We recommend turning them with a sharp skew or sharp gouge with a long side cut grind such as a fingernail grind. The chip out problems will be eliminated.
     The deep iridescent and pearlescent effects that these blanks yield is truly amazing. We also recommend that you either paint your tubes or use white powder coated tubes to keep the brass from peeking through and ruining the effect.
     We have been asked to carry a one gallon size of the casting resin, well it's here. We now carry Silmar 41 in a one gallon can. Due to the size of the container and the shipping requirements, it is priced to include the shipping charges. Any additional shipping fees that you may be charged at check-out, as we have always done, will be refunded. You will pay only exactly what it cost to ship and nothing extra.
     If you're not qualified then you're DINK (US submarine sailor lingo for: get busy and study; put the pinochle cards away; get off the mess decks when the movie is playing; and why are you breathing my air, drinking my water and eating my food without a Tech Manuel in your hands. At least that's the way it used to be when I was coming up in the program).
     We have finally got the kinks out of the US Navy Submarine Warfare breast insignia. This insignia is worn by US Navy submarine sailors who have demonstrated through a rigorous qualification program that they have the basic skills and knowledge required to be a dependable asset to the submarine crew and have a thorough knowledge of the ships operating systems and in damage control and casualty procedures to safely operate and control the ship.
     It is a very proud day for a submarine crewman  when awarded their dolphins and can wear the label (SS) "Qualified in Submarines".
     We have made them in both gold for officers and silver for enlisted. The gold dolphins are made from yellow dyed maple and the silver rendition is clear maple.
     As you can see in the photos on the right, we have several other beautiful new blanks available. 

US Navy Submarine Warfare Breast Insignia


US Army 10th Mountain Division, My son was stationed here as a helicopter mechanic.


Silhouette of a high stepping horse.


This was a special request from one of our customers, New Mexico state flag


US Army 29th Infantry Division Patch.
FEEDBACK

Some feedback from Kenny E. Some of you who would like to turn Inlay blanks but are afraid to try, you might like this. 
 

Hello,

 

I noticed, while looking at your Inlay Blanks, that you state they need to be cut with a skew and to avoid sanding on them or one will get "color bleed" (my term).

 

On a more basic scale, there is another way to get around the issues of color bleed while sanding these. It's something I do with my own laminated blanks when I mix light and dark woods (like padauk and maple or holly), and it has worked well for me. If you were to either stabilize the blanks, or use stabilized woods in their construction, you could eliminate any issue of color bleed and open these pen kits up to a wider market.

 Let's face it, the skew isn't easy to learn. And many are afraid of it, usually because they've had a nasty catch. And even those who can use it, but aren't an "expert", may be afraid to pay nearly $20 for a pen blank and then put a skew to it, as that's a lot of money gone if you get a catch!

What I do, is to turn the blanks down with a fingernail-grind spindle gouge, using the wing sort of like a skew to get a smooth surface. I then will coat the blank with thin CA, which will soak into the open pores of the wood, sealing the surface. I will take a very light pass with the wing of the gouge, then apply one more coat of CA. Now that the wood is sealed, I sand. If I have to do a lot of sanding, I will add another coat of thin CA after the first couple grits. 

 

Doing things this way, I have not had any issues with color bleed. 

 

I have also devised a method for impregnating my blanks with "wood hardener" (either PC-Petrifier or Minwax), but that's another story altogether. But it too works and keeps color bleed down. 

 

Anyway, just some thoughts I wanted to share with you 

Kenny

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Most of the blanks Tracey makes with the unnatural colors in them are made from stabilized wood, but they don't have a real heavy monimer resin in them.  The ones with the monimer resin are not easy to work with on the laser, color saturation is an issue and it adds quite a bit of cost to the end product and they'll still tend to break apart without the use of a skew.

 

The biggest reason we steer folks toward using a skew is that most new turners will gravitate to the scraper because it is the easiest tool to use. However, if you try to use that scraper which in some cases is quite dull it will immediately catch and break the blank.   To limit the number of calls about "defective" blanks because they broke it, we tell them to use a skew and warn that "if you can't use a skew, then these blanks are not for you". It weeds out problems before they start. We sell enough of them now that Tracey has a tough time keeping up.

 

Your comments are really good and we will certainly share them in our next newsletter. The question I get is "Do your inlay blanks blow apart like the ones I've purchased from another company.   When I try to explain that the problem is not the blank but the turner. I usually get a deaf ear on the other end of the phone.

 

Dull chisels are the biggest problem folks have in learning to turn and being successful at it. When someone calls me and asks me what they need to have to start turning pens, the first tool I usually suggest even before a lathe is a sharpening system. Without sharp tools you will not turn for long before you are too frustrated to continue. The new prospective turner will have spent a fortune on tools which will be for sale in the next neighborhood tag sale because he/she has given up.

 

 

 
Thank you for reading and we'll be back again next month.
 
Tim Nicholas 
Wood-N-Whimsies 
800-820-1099