Topiary
When travelling in Thailand, one is treated to a varied and unique form of art known as topiary, or the trimming of trees and bushes into unusual and decorative forms. In the medians of many divided highways, one will see elephants, monkeys, chickens, tigers, and many other types of animals formed out of the beautifully trimmed shrubs.
The family of rabbits in the picture above was taken at Bang-Pa-In. Donna Porter took the photo while on tour earlier this year.This is a formal garden but topiary can be seen in many places where it is not expected.
Perhaps most unique and impressive is the use of this form of art to spell out the name of a university, government building or some other institution. To see Thai script is really remarkable and one certainly appreciates the beauty and work that goes into maintaining this art form. |
Comments, questions, additional information , and suggestions on articles in this newsletter may be posted on the Facebook page for Hand Held Trips to Thailand.
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Past and Future Tours
Of the two tours for 2012 that are now posted on the web site, the Isaan tour has generated several registered guests. The tour should honestly be an experience of a life time. It will from necessity, include lots of travel each day to cover all the area that will be included. However, those who have not seen this area, truly have not seen Thailand.
The first tour in January of 2012 is the basic introduction to Thailand, which starts in Bangkok and then continues to the mountainous North of Thailand, and then it is off to the beach for a couple of relaxing days before you start your journey home.
One question that has been asked is if I can extend either tour to include Angkor Wat. The short answer is yes. Tell me what you want and I can make arrangements for individuals to continue on to Angkor Wat, Vietnam, Myanmar, etc. etc. I will find lodging, guides, drivers, and meals if you want to travel to just about any place in Southeast Asia. Or, I will be happy to refer you to a tourist office that I trust.
Please remember to check the web site or give me a call when registering to confirm the total price. |
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It is once again time to start planning those wonderful trips for next year. Might I be so bold as to suggest Thailand? It is truly a remarkable Kingdom full of wonderful people who are still pleased to meet and greet westerners. The food is fantastic, the pace is much slower than the west, but the joy of life that is so contagious is one of the aspects of the country that I like best. Smile, think only good thoughts and all seems much easier. Enjoy life by making it a happy experience and don't forget to celebrate with friends and family.
There is just one remaining tour for 2011. You can always check the web site for the projected dates and costs. Also for complete information and the itinerary for any tour, go to the daily itinerary . |
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Wat Cheddi Luang, Chiang Saen
Photo by Lee Porter
Located just a few kilometers south of the Golden Triangle is the interesting city of Chiang Sean. The future King Mengrai was born there while the city was still known as Ngoen Yang. This location has been the site of settlements since prehistoric times. It has been a major trading crossroads since at least the seventh century. Before the city of Chiang Rai was built by King Mengrai in 1262, this was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. Around 1328, King Saen Phu, a nephew of King Mengrai (and who became the third king of the Lanna kingdom), was tasked to lay out the city of approximately 2.5 square kilometers as an outpost of the Kingdom. He renamed it after himself and constructed a moat and a double wall, whose remnants are barely visable today.
The city passed back and forth between the Thai and Burmese kingdoms for centuries. In 1804, King Rama I was successful in finally driving the Burmese completely out and ordered the city leveled to remove it as a temptation to the Burmese. The area was neglected until 1881 when King Rama V ordered the descendants of the original inhabitants to return to the city.
Over the years, the wars and looting have taken its toll on many of what must have been magnificent buildings. Today, Chiang Saen is a bustling city on the Mekong River. It is a major location for importing and exporting to the Yunnan Province of China. You can watch the transfer of goods from the many riverboats that line the riverfront.
The ancient city of Chiang Saen has several very interesting temples that are by-passed by the average tourist. The photo above was taken this year at Wat Chedi Luang. The temple was probably built around 1331 and was undoubtedly the main temple when Chiang Saen was at its peak of influence about 650 years ago. It was modified in 1515 when it was part of the Lanna Kingdom. Like many measurements in Thailand, the exact height of the chedi is not easy to come by. I have seen publications that say it is 18, 58, and 88 meters high. I have stood at the base of it and looked up and my guess-ta-ment is about 60 feet, give or take a yard or two. The picture above also shows the edge of a newer temporary roof that covers an ancient viharn (sermon hall). This new structure also covers a newer Buddha statue and alter. While we were there, the picture below shows monks, clearing out the old viharn and making it ready to be rebuilt. The ruins of many more structures are visible in the temple compound. Other temples nearby have been restored and one will be covered in a forthcoming newsletter.
 Photo by Donna Porter |
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Tea Production in Thailand
Hostess at Tea Plantation
It is not really a secret, just a little known fact; Thailand produces some of the best oolong tea in the world. The region in Chiang Rai know as Doi Mae Salong, produces about 200 tons of tea per year. Tea plantations owned by Chinese speaking Thai citizens hire many of the local hill tribe people to work in the cultivation process. The climate and elevation in this area are perfect for growing tea as well as opium poppies. Many of the tea bushes are from Taiwan, which is world famous for its production of oolong tea. Although green tea and black tea are also grown and produced, it is the oolong tea that is the major crop. With 70% of the tea crop consumed locally in Thailand, only about 30% is exported. The major importers of Thai tea are Europe and Dubai.
The production of tea in Thailand is not that old but has a very interesting history which starts with the communist takeover of China in the 1940's. Most of us are familiar with the story of how the Chinese Nationalist government from mainland China escaped and settled on the island of Taiwan. There were elements of the Kuomintang (KMT) army from the Yunnan Province in China that escaped to the jungles of Myanmar. From this location they continued to fight against the communist Chinese and also the Burmese. Their activities were funded by money from the opium trade. In the 1960's these soldiers and their families were allowed to settle in Thailand at the present day site of Mae Salong. The Thai government welcomed them as a method of fighting communism in the hill tribe regions of northern Thailand. When the Thai government decided to crack down on the opium trade, roads were built to and thru this region and efforts were made to assimilate this unique Chinese community into the mainstream Thai culture.
The Thai government has been successful in its efforts to stop the opium trade and encouraged the development of tea plantations as an alternative cash crop. However, the ethnic Chinese have continued to retain their language and customs much as they were when they left Yunnan. As the settlement of Mae Salong has developed, the origional Chinese have been increased by more recent immigrants from China. The orchards, tea plantations, and herbs from their native land have been brought to this corner of Thailand. The produce that is grown here is very highly prized. The architecture is different from the Thai architecture and the type of Buddhism is also different.
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Tea bushes
Photos taken while on tour in 2010 and 2011. |
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Baan Sao Nak
One private museum in the city of Lampang, is well worth the cost of the 50 Baht admission fee. Baan Sao Nak translates as the House of many pillars. This name refers to the over 100 pillars that support the house. Originally built in 1895, it was repaired over a 10 year period from 1964 to 1974. Mong Chan Ong Chandraviroj was the original owner of this magnificent teak building. Mr. Chandraviroj was ethic Mon from Myanmar, and the influence of his native Burmese architecture combined with the Lanna (Northern Thailand) roof lines make this house truly remarkable.
In 1987, Khunying Valai Leelanuj, a granddaughter of the original owner, replaced the rice granary in the compound. The new granary was actually one that dated from the same period as the house and is supported by 24 pillars. The remarkable collection of household items used in daily life for over a hundred years are showcased and displayed for every one to see when you visit this beautifully preserved residence.
Although it is a museum, it is used for wedding ceremonies and for the traditional Kantoke dinner. The building has been featured in several magazines and television shows. Most of the articles have been in Thai, although there has been at least one article published in a French magazine.
 Photos of Baan Sao Nak by Charles Kamba on tour in 2010 |
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If you enjoy getting this newsletter, I hope you will take a minute and let me know how to make it better. I am always willing to change the format and do love your comments. Again, I offer to let other RPCV's (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers), Thai's or travelers to Thailand to share some of your stories and photos of this remarkable Kingdom.
Also, I do appreciate all of you who forward this letter to others. It is one of the ways new readers are added. Of course they are not automatically added, but if they sign up, then they are always included in the mailing for the next issue.
This month there will be several new readers who have signed up since the April newsletter. Remember all older issues are still available in the archives. |
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Sincerely,
Lee Porter
H2T3 Tours, LLC
571-244-4363
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