Songkran
 Waterfall Photo by David Peterson on tour in 2009 If you are ever in Thailand on the 13th of April you will never forget it. That is the day Songkran (the water festival) begins. It is to celebrate the Thai new year and in true Thai fashion it is really celebrated. While three days of celebration are customary, it can and does last up to ten days in some areas. Presents and merit making acts are offered to monks, parents,and elders and then water is "splashed" over them. Splashed can not be used to describe what happens next! It is almost unbelievable and certainly hard to imagine but the streets of Bangkok are full of people pouring water over each other. You could even say it is almost a water fight to see who can get who soaked the most. As a tourist or farang, you are a prime target and if you do not want to get soaked do not go outside. Bangkok is not the only place Songkran is celebrated. Everywhere in the Kingdom and particularly in Chiang Mai it has become notorious for its wild celebrations. If you do decide to venture outside, please do not take your camera or anything else that might be ruined if it is totally saturated. Big buckets of water are giving way to high powered water hoses roaming the streets on trucks and high-pressure water guns and that can actually hurt if one is not careful. While it
is a fun and an enjoyable way to cool down, it can be a little
dangerous. It is especially unwise to be traveling during this period
as many of the highway deaths occur during this celebration. For more on Songkran, please click here.

Fountain
Photo by Lee Porter
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Future Tours
It seems like only a short time since the last tour, but I am already anxious for the next one. It is so enjoyable to share something you truly love with other people. The two remaining tours for 2010 have been posted to include the daily itinerary for each. The first tour for 2011 has also been posted and will be very much like the first tour of 2010. I am still negotiating the second tour of 2011 but it looks like it will be a 15 day tour of the northeast. The northeast has many things worthy of seeing. It is such a large area and not nearly as well traveled by foreigners as the other regions of Thailand. There is also a possibility that an extra few days at the beach may be an option for those that would like to extend their stay a little longer. I will post the information as soon as possible.
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HAPPY NEW YEAR! April 13th begins the Thai calendar new year. It is now the year 2553 BE (Buddhist Era). Songkran (the water festival) helps usher in the new year, so I have included a short article on it in this newsletter. The months seem to go by so quickly. It is now spring and with the winter snow all gone, it is time to start planning for the next trips. Registrations are already coming in and hopefully one tour will be sold out soon. And, the best news of all, my wife will finally accompany me on one of the upcoming tours. This will be her first time and I sure hope it is the first of many. The news from Thailand is not all good but I really believe it is not nearly as bad as some press is making it out to be. I do monitor the situation at all times and believe things are quieting down once more. The health of the King is my major concern and I hope he will recover soon. I do appreciate all your comments on the newsletter, and thank you for the suggestions and critiques. If any of you are returned travelers or RPCVs (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers) and would care to contribute a short article, I would be very happy to give you credit for your article.
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Klong Intrabut and family
Khun Sirilat, Phii Klong, and Klongsat Photo by Lee Porter 2010
Many of you have asked about my "Thai father" so here is an update as of February. Phii Klong, who I affectionately call my Thai father is now 94. When I
saw him in February, he was in a much better condition than he has been
in for the last two years. He was joking, teasing, and just having a
great time giving his children anxiety attacks. He seems to have his
own mind about what medicines he needs and how much his doctor really
knows. He says nothing taste good, but still he manages to munch away most of his day. He was eating every time I visited him this year. He was in a good mood all three days I was with him and we laughed, talked about old times and how both of us missed being able to do the things we used to do. His mind is still very sharp on things he wants to remember. He is forgetful in only those things he doesn't want to talk about. He looks forward to my visit each year and says he is still planning on living to be 100 but it is getting more difficult. He is lonely and misses his friends. The picture above shows him with his remaining children. Khun Klongsat is 65 and Sirilat is 58. He is still living in the house we used to live in, but the house has changed. The house we lived in used to be about 12 feet above ground level on stilts. This allowed it to remain dry during the flooding of the rainy season and this area under the house was not used for any purpose. Now, this space has been developed to what they call the "underhouse". A cement slab was put in place under the entire house. Two bedroom were built which included glass windows and window air-conditioning units. The rest of the "underhouse" is divided by bamboo screens into several smaller areas including a sitting area, garage for Sirilat's car, and storage areas. Behind the "underhouse", another cement slab has been placed and been covered with a tin roof. On this slab is placed a dining table, chairs, lounge chairs, a refrigerator, a wash machine, and much more. When we lived in this house, it was one of 6 houses on the lot. Now it is the only house. Some of the land was sold but the new living space takes up much of the remaining area. Where we once had a well it's now been covered and the area reclaimed by nature. When at one time we had a "squat" commode, there is now a modern bathroom with running water to include a bright purple western style throne. Throughout the "underhouse"and the extension to the back of the house, there is heavy teak and rosewood western style furniture that would be beautiful in any home. While I am happy to see them enjoy all the wonderful things that have come with electricity and flood prevention, it is also sad to remember what has been lost.
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Trains
 Railroad station at Ubol Ratchathani
Photo by Wen Cheng Chou on a tour in 2009
As with many modernization projects in Thailand, the development of the Thai railway can be dated back to the reign of Rama V (King Chulalongkorn, 1868-1910). The Royal State Railway of Siam was established in 1890 and the first track opened was between Bangkok and Ayutthaya in 1984. Today the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) overseas a network of four major and several smaller branch lines. Most long distance lines start from the Hua Lampong Railway Station in Bangkok. The main branches go North to Chiang Mai; Northeast to Ubol Ratchathani or Nong Khai; East to the Cambodian border; and South to the Malay border. A short line to the west goes to Nam Tok and passes thru Kanchanaburi and the "Bridge over the River Kwai" The trains have four types: special express, express, rapid and ordinary. The ordinary train is the slowest and stops at every stop. It is usually used for short distances. The rapid train really isn't rapid but is somewhat faster than the ordinary and does miss a stop or two. The express is definitely faster than the rapid and offers more class options. The special express is the best to use for the longest distances but even then, a bus may get you there faster. Besides having the different types of trains, there are three classes in which to travel. The ordinary trains are primarily made up of 3rd class cars and only infrequently have one or two 2nd class coaches. The seats in 3rd class are never reserved and consist of hard benches and air circulates if the windows are open. Experience has proved that after a couple of hours traveling 3rd class, numbness of the posterior sets in. The good thing about 3rd class is, that you are never lonely and it is great fun. Second class coaches come in two varieties, those with fans and those with air conditioning. Seats in both have padded seats that theoretically lean back and have foot rests. Second class seats are available on all rapid, and express trains. That being said, there is another distinction in the coaches of second class. On express and special express trains, 2nd class sleepers are available. The seats are converted into bunks for sleeping with a second bunk pulled down so that there are lower and upper bunks. The lower bunk offers a little more room but both are furnished with curtains, clean sheets, and pillow cases. If you take a second class sleeper with air conditioning, it can get very cold. The air conditioning seems to have two settings, either "on" or "off". Special express trains also offer 1st class sleepers. These are cars divided into small compartments that afford two bunks, a wash basin, and a fold down table. If traveling alone, you are expected to share you compartment with someone of the same sex or else buy two tickets. In both classes of sleepers, upper bunks are cheaper than lower bunks. Also, on 1st and 2nd class coaches, meals are served at your seat. There are a few things to remember when thinking of taking a train in Thailand: 1) Trains are usually clean and can be very inexpensive 2) Most trains leave on time, but arrival times are harder to predict 3) Railway workers are very professional and very helpful 4) While buses may be faster, the view of the countryside is much nicer from the railroad bed when compared to the highway 5) Taking a 3rd class coach is probably not very wise 
Hua Hin Railroad Station for Royalty Photo by Lee Porter on tour in 2010
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Thai Celadon Ceramics
Spirit House Photo by Lee Porter 2010 Pottery, or more specifically ceramic production, has been going on in Thailand since at least 3600 BC. There are several distinct types of ceramics produced in various regions of the country. The Thai Celadon ceramics production is now largely centered in the Chiang Mai area of the north. The word Celadon is of Sanskrit devivation and means green stone. This
light green shade of the glaze was prized by many people. The method
was developed by the master potters in China to resemble jade. The kilns of Si Satchanalai were producing celadon pottery in the 10th century AD., but in the 13 century artisans from China introduced the glazing methods and Thai Celadon was born. This jade green pottery was highly sought after through Asia and pieces of it have been found throughout the world. The highest production was from the 13th to mid 16th centuries. When the Lanna kingdom fell to the Burmese in the mid 16th century, the artisans were taken to Burma as slaves. It was only after the Thai kingdom finally drove the Burmese out in the late 18th century, that the descendants of the Lanna artisans began to move back and once again celadon pottery was being made in Thailand. When the artisans came back they once again settled in the Si Satchanalai area and went back to the ancient way of making pottery. The special processes of making celadon include the shape of the kiln, the extreme high heat, special treatment of the clay and the application of the glaze by hand. For a more complete description of the process, please click here.The methods of producing Celadon have remained fairly consistent over the centuries, but yes, machines and molds now do some of the work instead of the potters wheel for pieces like plates and intricate sculptures. However, the pottery wheel is still very much in use and inot uncommon to see them used when visiting one of the sights that make Celadon. A small piece of celadon will take six to eight weeks to make and more intricate and larger pieces can take much longer. Another, Thai twist to the original celadon is that they now are producing the same ceramics in not only jade green, but also in browns, blues, black and white.  Celadon ceramics on spirit house
Photo by Lee Porter 2010
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As always, I thank you for taking the time to read this newsletter. Hopefully each of you know at least one person who might be interested in reading some of the articles here and I would appreciate you forwarding the newsletter to them. I would like to welcome new
readers to this newsletter. The idea is to share information about
Thailand, including, but not limited to it's culture, history, people
and food. I try to have a newsletter every other month and I honestly
try to pick topics I think you will enjoy. I welcome ideas of interest
from you and hope you understand that these are my impressions and
thoughts and should be treated as such. If the scheduled tours do not meet your needs because they
are to long, wrong month, or not varied enough, etc. etc. etc. let me
know. I would be happy to try and accommodate a travel group, family
group, Sunday School class, or any other grouping of six to 12 people
for a trip to Thailand. Let me know what you are looking for and maybe
we can work out a wonderful trip for you. If I am going with you, I
need at least eight people. If you would rather go without my tagging
along, I can arrange a tour that would include guides, hotels, in
country transportation and admission to the sites you want to see.
Remember, most of my tours are scheduled during the cool dry season in Thailand. But, even then, there is a chance for rain especially in the south. If travel to the south is on the agenda, it depends on which coast you go too, the Andamann Coast or the Gulf of Thailand, as to when the rainy season will be. It can become cool in the mountains in the winter time and this is true for the mountains of the northeast as well as the north.
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Sincerely,
Lee Porter
H2T3 Tours, LLC 571-244-4363
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