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Starting a Wine Cellar?
September 2012
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Greetings!
I often get asked, "I'd like to start a wine cellar, where do I begin?" I think the answer is far less complicated than most people would imagine. Does a cellar "need" vintage Port, Alsatian VdT's, PX Sherries, or Auslese German Rieslings....I say no. Not until you have wines you personally like and foresee drinking. A cellar is meant to be enjoyed, not filled with wines to admire from afar. I think it's most important to have a selection of grape varietals in "everyday" price points as well as some premium selections for long ageing or special occasions.
A well rounded cellar includes a few styles of Chardonnay, some vibrant, easy-drinking whites and a Champagne. Cabernet Sauvignons and/or Bordeaux-blends are a must for their popularity and ageability. I also feel that a great Merlot is important. A well made Merlot should not be a Cabernet look-a-like, it should be supple and silky and perfumed.
Pinot Noir is a staple, so one or two styles is great, since some people really like new World and some prefer Old. Rounding out the selections, something from the south of France; an Italian, preferably Sangiovese; and a Zinfandel which can serve two roles, a "big red" for red meat or a "cheese plate red" like Amarone or Port, but more food and wallet friendly.
Here is a selection of wines to consider for your collection. If you have any questions, I'm always available. Please visit our website here for our blog, wine reviews and catalogues. As always, prices are per-bottle, inclusive of taxes but exclusive of bottle deposit. We sell only in unmixed case lots. Have a great day,
Chris.
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Weingut Hirsch Gruner Veltliner 2011
$20.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
Gruner Veltliner is an exciting grape, hailing from Austria, it has few peers when it comes to all-around food friendliness. A medium-bodied white with high-ish acidity, weight in the mid-palate, fruity flavours and a bone-dry finish. To me it tastes like a mix of Sauvignon Blanc's herbaceous flavours, Riesling's mouth watering acidity and Pinot Grigio's gentle fruity and floral aromas and flavours. It also comes with modest alcohol as Gruner Veltliner ripens phenolically before the sugars spike, therefore lots of character and little alcohol.
"Johannes Hirsch is young and fearless. He was the first in Austria to convert from cork to screw caps, cold turkey. He faced howls of protest from customers when he switched from spring to autumn bottling, because experience showed it was better for the top wines....Like the man his wines are infectious."
Robert Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide #7
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Domaine Luneau Papin Muscadet Sur Lie "Les Pierre Blanches" 2011
$20.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 Here is a wine that falls into both camps, "everyday" because of the price and "long ageing" because it can. Muscadet sur Lie is one of France's great wine bargains. I love this wine. The Melon de Bourgogne grape reflects the schsitous terroir (schist is a metamorphic rock soil that looks sedimentary) of the Muscadet region exceptionally well and the extra richness provided by sur lie ageing (in tank, post-fermentation on the dead yeast cells) provides complexity to this light, refreshing wine.
The vines from which this bottling is sourced are over 55 years old, the wines are hand harvested and fermented in glass-lined subterranean vats. Around 20% undergoes macération pelliculaire, a light maceration of the crushed grapes in the must before fermentation occurs, and the wines are held on the lees for over 9 months before bottling.
Few wines are as food friendly and in particular as seafood-friendly as Muscadet sur Lie. As well, these wines age fabulously, opening up one at 10 years past vintage is like opening well aged white Burgundy. |
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Astrolabe Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2011
$23.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 New Zealand is now synonymous with Sauvignon Blanc and Astrolabe's is one of the best. Explosive aromatics of passionfruit and tomato leaf lead into a minerally, rich, wine with bright acidity. This is great as an apertif or with light foods, even salads with vinaigrettes.
"Delicious Sauvignon that's an appealing medley of predominantly ripe passion fruit and red capsicum flavours with underlying gooseberry and grapefruit. The wine has a wonderful ethereal texture and lengthy finish. A fine example of what Marlborough Sauvignon should be but seldom is."
93 points, Bob Campbell, MW, Jan 2012
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Tuck Beckstoffer "75 Wine Company" Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
$30.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
A new addition to the Rogers & Company portfolio is the Seventy Five Wine Company owned by Tuck Beckstoffer. The Beckstoffer family are the "first family" of grape growing in Napa, owning and operating over 3,600 acres in Northern California. Most notably, To Kalon, Dr. Crane, Georges III and Missouri Hopper Vineyards in Napa Valley.
This bottle is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and sourced from Napa and Lake Counties. These diverse, high quality vineyards compliment one another perfectly. The high altitude, rocky vineyard sites in Lake County deliver angularity, complexity and structure while the Napa Valley fruit provides deep concentration and focus to the wine.
This wine is dense and shows pure Cabernet flavours, with a wonderful nose and palate of cedar, blueberry, saddle leather and white pepper. The finish shows balanced acid, tannin and sweet toasted oak. Meticulous wine making and attention to detail has produced a wine of tremendous presence and complexity that completely over-delivers at this price. Enjoy this wine now for its richness and vivacity or enjoy it over the next 5-7 years as it slowly evolves and softens to reveal more tertiary, earthy notes and silky fruit.
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Capiaux "Chimera" Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2010
$42.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 Sean Capiaux is the COO and winemaker at O'Shaughnessy Estate. He also makes his own wines, all Pinot Noir, and all from top vineyard sites. The Chimera is a blend of nine sites, using some of the best fruit available, from vineyards in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma County AVAs as well as a dash from Garys' and Pisoni vineyards from the Santa Lucia Highlands.
These complimentary fruit sources provide Sean a palette of acids, tannins, weights and fruit flavours from which to blend a harmonious, complete Pinot Noir. With all the components in place, this Pinot Noir ages gracefully and dynamically, appearing to change each time you open a bottle.
"The 2010 Pinot Noir Chimera is a beautiful wine that captures the essence of the Sonoma Coast in a fairly rich style for the appellation. Dark red fruit melds into sweet herbs, spices and licorice in this generous, plush Pinot. The wine finds its focus and minerality in the rich, creamy finish. The Chimera is a blend of fruit from nine different vineyards, most of them from the Sonoma Coast and Russian River. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016." 89 points, Wine Advocate, Feb 2012 |
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Fontodi Chianti Classico 2009
$31.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 Fontodi is one of Tuscany's great estates, owned by Giovanni Manetti who also directs viticulture and winemaking. Fontodi produces Flaccianello, Tuscany's most consistent and collectable Sangiovese, their "regular" Chianti Classico is pretty wonderful also. Organic viticulture and gentle winemaking produces a wine capable of 6-8 years of good evolution but it's also fantastic young.
"This is a solid Chianti Classico, with beautiful plum, berry and milk chocolate aromas and flavours. Full body, with soft and velvety tannins and a long juicy finish. Really excellent. Fontodi is one of the stars of the region. Made from organic grapes. Drink now." 93 points, JamesSuckling.com, Aug 2011 |
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Gaston Chiquet Champagne "Special Club" Brut 2004
$69.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
"Nicolas Chiquet is among the greatest of all the grower producers",
Rajat Parr, Secrets of the Sommeliers, 2010 page 161
In 1935 Gaston Chiquet began a sea-change in the region when he became the first grape grower in Champagne to make and market his own wines. Now savvy collectors look to the value that "Grower-Producer" Champagnes offer.
"The 2004 Brut Special Club bursts from the glass with terrific energy and sheer class. It captures all of the potential of a year that was especially favorable to Chardonnay. There is plenty of nuance and detail in the glass. The 2004 shows off tons of personality and sheer class. Mint, sage and eucalyptus are some of the notes that wrap around the finish. This is first-class all the way. It is also one of the very finest wines I have ever tasted from Chiquet. The 2004 Special Club is 70% Chardonnay (from Dizy), 30% Pinot Noir (from Ay and Hautvillers). Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Disgorged July 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019."
94 points, Wine Advocate, Nov 2011
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Special Occasion and Long Ageing Wines
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Domaine Huet Vouvray "Le Haut Lieu" Sec 2011
$33.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 Considered one the best wineries in France, Domaine Huet traces its history to 1928 when Victor Huet escaped to the clean air of the Loire Valley countryside to alleviate respiratory illness caused by WWI trench warfare. Intent on entering the forestry business, he and his wife Anna-Constance happened upon a small vineyard, Le Haut Lieu in fact, and their plan changed immediately. Their first vintage was 1929.
Today Domaine Huet farms three vineyards - Le Haut Lieu, Le Mont and Le Clos du Bourg. All vineyards are farmed biodynamically and depending on the quality of the vintage the Chenin Blanc grapes become a tapestry of wines from dry to sweet, still to sparkling and everything in between.
Le Haut Lieu Sec is their dry Chenin Blanc from the vineyard that produces the most supple and "easy-drinking" wines. But make no mistake, this wine properly cellared matures and evolves gracefully for over 10 years.
Robert Parker's 2005 book The World's Greatest Wine Estates, a Modern Perspective included Domaine Huet among his choices from the Loire Valley. If you follow Chris Kissack, thewinedoctor.com, he writes about his numerous visits that, "For some, Domaine Huet defines the Vouvray appellation, indeed for some it defines the Loire Valley."
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Alex Gambal Meursault "Clos du Cromin" 2009
$67.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
Every cellar needs a "high-end" Chardonnay to pull out when the occasion calls for it. Meursaults are buttery and spicy but elegant and lively, a wonderful expression of Chardonnay from the Côtes de Beaune.
Alex Gambal is an American who has found a home among the well-connected of Burgundy. In fact, Alex is the first non-Frenchman in history to own property in the renowned Grand Cru vineyard Batard-Montrachet. His career path is featured in Wine Spectator's Sept 30th 2012 edition, page 85.
Alex's winemaking style is natural and rooted in centuries-old techniques. Fermentation is done by naturally occuring yeasts, his whites ferment in barrel, racking is done according to phases of the moon and planets and the wines are lightly fined and not filtered. 2009 was a very good year for whites from the Côtes de Beaune, Wine Spectator says that the region produced wines that are "exotic in character, with ripe fruit, fleshy textures and soft structures". Wine Advocate awarded 90 points to the vintage, which is "outstanding" and they also note that the 2009's are ready to drink.
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Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2009
$63.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
 One of California's most long-lived Chardonnays is the Chateau Montelena Napa Valley. Because this Chardonnay is "non-malolactic" which means the malic acid is prevented from becoming lactic acid, the wine shows great acidity which not only allows the wine to age for a long time, it makes the fruit flavours seem vivacious and bright.
"The '09 Montelena chardonnay is for fans of aristocratic wines. This is a classy, concentrated, restrained, but powerful Chardonnay, with terrific persistence and flavour intensity. The finish lingers for minutes. The oak is beautifully integrated and the acidity and alcohol are in fine harmony. Drink now or hold till the end of the decade."
94 points, wineaccess.ca, John Szabo MS, Sept 2012 |
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Frog's Leap "Rutherford" Merlot 2009
$49.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
At the Red Barn in Rutherford, a deposit of clay laid years ago by volcanic processes sits among the gravel moraines of central Napa. Just like in Pomerol, a high proportion of clay provides a cool root zone, while the Napa sun provides extra warmth. Sustainable and dry farming practices reveal the true personality of this much mismanaged varietal.
The 2009 Merlot shows off the beautifully aromatic and richly flavoured character of this grape at its very best. More expressive than most red wines, the Merlot opens with aromas of plum, dark cherries, cocoa and spice and it fills the void where Pinot Noir is too simple and Cabernet Sauvignon too intense.
"John Williams' crusade for dry farming in Napa makes sense out of Merlot, a grape that responds to irrigation by racing to higher alcohol levels with each successive heat spike. This has some warmth, adding a gentle glow from within the fruit, the flavours clean and fragrant, the tannins lovely, dark in tone."
90 points, Wine & Spirits, Aug 2012 |
Ehlers Estate "1886" St. Helena Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
$129.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case only 4 cases in stock
 For quality and scarcity it's hard to top Ehlers Estates' 1886. This bio-dynamically farmed Cabernet grown at the St. Helena estate is a true collectable. Each year it seems to be better than the last. Winemaker Kevin Morrisey learned his craft at Chateau Petrus and following a career as associate winemaker at Stag's Leap Winery and Winemaker and Director of Operations at Etude, he brought his skills to Ehlers.
The 1886 is distinct not only for its quality but also the apothecary-type moulded bottle that it is presented in as a reminder that all of Ehlers Estates' profits go to the Leducq Foundation for cardiovascular research. Do you see the heart in the "E"?
"The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 1886 is a beautifully delineated wine with expressive aromatics and plenty of nuances. Blackberries, Chambord, spices, white flowers and licorice are some of the notes that emerge from this generous, fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon. This feminine, graceful Cabernet Sauvignon should continue to drink well for a decade or so. In 2008 the blend is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, aged in French oak barrels, 70% new. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. "
93 points, Wine Advocate, Dec 2011
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Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2010 "Cuvée du Baron"
$39.95 per 750 ml bottle, 12 bottles per case
$21.95 per 375ml bottle, 12 bottles per case
 The Baron for which this wine is named is Baron Le Roy de Boiseaumarie, decorated WWI fighter pilot, a master of law, one-time proprietor of the winery and co-founder of the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO). In 1936 he led the development of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) system that would define France's appellation wine laws and ultimately influencing all of Europe's.
"A superb 2010, showing ample heft to its core of crushed fig, plum and blackberry fruit, beautifully laced with espresso, bay leaf and warm stone notes, and then all carried by the racy precision of the vintage, with ample but sleek structure and a long, seamless finish. Best from 2014 through 2027. 10,000 cases made."
92 points, Wine Spectator, Oct 2012
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Ridge "Lytton Springs" 2010
$49.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case

In each cellar there should be one "big red" for those days in December when you've prepared a hearty, rib coating meal, or to pour after dinner with a cheese plate. Some people like Port or Amarone, I prefer something a little more versatile, so I recommend Zinfandel. A hint of residual sugar balances the flavours, the alcohol, and makes pairing with cheese fun. As well, it can be poured during the meal without being "too heavy".
Lytton Springs may be California's most famous Zinfandel, with a legion of fans the world over. Each vintage is a reflection of the season and of the 111 year-old vineyard which produces this wine.
"The 2010 Lytton Springs (67% Zinfandel, 23% Petite Sirah, 7% Carignane and 3% Mataro) is fascinating because it seems to have handled the heat spikes far better than the Geyserville. This is first and foremost Lytton Springs, and a product of the 2010 vintage second. Firm tannins frame an expressive core of dark red cherries, flowers and sweet herbs. The inner perfume of Zinfandel resonates on the finish. The 2010 needs time to soften, but it is quite beautiful. Lytton Springs is a much larger site than Geyserville, the choices for lots are much greater, which affords the winemaking team a great deal of flexibility in crafting the final blends. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030."
93+ points, Wine Advocate, Aug 2012
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Chris McLean
416 961 2294 x 29 |
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