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Rogers & Company Newsletter
Vines with a Voice
March 2012
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Greetings!
Moreso than anything else we eat or drink, wines speak to us about where they're from. Sometimes we call this "terroir", a "sense of place" or, I like Matt Kramer's term, "somewhereness". This means that the wine is made in such a way that we can tell its provenance just by smelling and tasting it.
I'll oversimplify by saying that two factors come into play here; first, great fruit from a great site; secondly, a winemaker who knows when enough is enough. Too much extraction, too much alcohol, too much new oak - these are all factors that can mask the delicate nuances that tell us where a wine is from. Naturally some wines are more alcoholic than others and some take to new oak better as well, but there's always a fine line between retaining terroir and producing a flashy, drinkable wine that could come from anywhere. As wine enthusiasts I think we all like to know that we're drinking something unique not just tasty and that those flavours, subtleties, nuances and textures couldn't be replicated anywhere else.
So, here is a selection of wines that we currently have available which I think fit the bill. Prices are per bottle, not including the $0.20 bottle deposit, and we sell only by the unmixed case.
Please visit our new website for up to the minute reviews and visit us on facebook as well. Just click here 
All my best,
Chris.
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Weingut Johann Peter Mertes "Goldberg" Riesling 2010 QbA
$18.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
Tw enty years ago Johann Peter Mertes recognized the quality of Wawerner Goldberg or Golden Mountain, located on the Saar, a tributary of the Mosel. This vineyard is now known widely for producing Riesling on par with the Mosel's top sites.
The fractured blue slate, steeply terraced hillside and almost direct vertical exposure to mid-day sun produces intense Riesling with rapier-like acidity, and rich fruit flavours of stonefruit and lime.
A hint of residual sugar balances the refreshing acids, and makes this a worthy pairing for any manner of spicy food especially Asian cuisine featuring chilis, garlic and ginger, and of course German charcuterie. |
Maison Alex Gambal Meursault 1er Cru "Les Genevrieres" 2009
$106.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
 Good Meursault usually shows its oak when young. A spiciness on the nose, a pronounced layer of oak over the fruit, but with time, the fruit absorbs the oak and what appears is a wonderous bouquet of delicate flowers and green fruits, powdery minerals and gentle haunting spice.
"Generous oak influence that will likely moderate with a year or two in bottle presently fights somewhat with the spicy white peach and lemon rind-infused aromas that are followed by sappy and relatively powerful medium weight flavours that possess plenty of mid-palate fat before delivering a beautifully complex, balanced and long finish. As I noted, this is on the oakier side at the moment but there is sufficient underlying material to suggest that the wood will be successfully absorbed in due time."
90-93 points, burghound.com, July 2011 |
Hanzell Vineyards "Sebella" Chardonnay 2010
$49.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 Our most recent winery addition is Hanzell Vineyards from Sonoma. Established in 1957, they currently own the longest continually producing Chardonnay vineyard in California and possibly North America. Hanzell gained fame, not only for the quality of their extremely age-worthy Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays and for their rootstock and clone trails which gave birth to the Hanzell clone, today grown widely in California, but for their technological innovations.
They were the first winery in the world to use stainless steel fermenters, the first to control malolactic fermentation, the first in California to use imported French oak barrels, the first to use inert gas during bottling to control oxidation of bottled wines, and the first to use "tankitos", portable one-ton steel fermenters.
Grown, produced and bottled at the winery, "Sebella" Chardonnay allows the winemakers a way to work with and audition the Chardonnay fruit from the younger vineyards prior to their coming of age and inclusion in the Hanzell Chardonnay. Grown with the same exacting standards as all the vineyards, Sebella Chardonnay is a different interpretation of the fruit and site. With stainless steel fermentation and aging in more neutral oak (one to three year old barrels), Sebella Chardonnay has the signature of the vineyard's minerality with the freshness of young Chardonnay fruit aromas.
One is immediately struck by the vibrancy of the aromas in this wine. Youthful and lively scents of honeysuckle, citrus blossom and guava are complemented by pear skin and classic Hanzell minerality. Concentrated flavours of Anjou pear, honeydew melon and lemon focus and linger on the palate while clean acidity supports and balances the richness. |
Fontodi "Flaccianello delle Pieve" IGT 2008
$99.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
 Flaccianello, the 100% Sangiovese selection of Fontodi's best fruit, may currently be Tuscany's most consistent (and affordable) collectable wine. Three times in the last seven years it has been named in Wine Spectator's Top 10 - #8 in 2010, #8 in 2009 and #10 in 2004. No other winery can claim that in a decade, if at all.
Although this is an IGT wine, and a "Super-Tuscan", it should not be confused with the IGT wines that incorporate Bordeaux varietals and show an international style. This is 100% Sangiovese, grown in the heart of the Conca d'Oro, Chianti Classico's best area. This is definitive Sangiovese for the classicist.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate states, "A maniacal attention to detail in both the vineyards and cellar sets Fontodi apart as one of Italy's most inspired producers." (Oct, 2010)
"The raspberry, cherry, floral and spice aromas and flavours in this classy red show harmony even at this early stage. Fresh and focused, with a vibrant finish. Sweet fruit, mineral and spice notes resonate on the aftertaste. Sangiovese. Best from 2014 through 2025. 4,000 cases made."
93 points, Wine Spectator, December 2011
"Flaccianello della Pieve, Fontodi's Super-Tuscan, is named for the Christian cross in the nearby village of Pieve. In great vintages this is the sort of wine you can drink once and remember forever. It's often one of the more exotic Sangioveses made - syrupy in texture, tooth-stainingly rich, exceptionally complex, and dappled with uncommon flavours such as ginger, black licorice, persimmon and grapefruit. Most impressive of all is the way the wine explodes with sappy juiciness."
Karen McNeil, The Wine Bible Single bottle cases of magnums (1500ml) will also be available in 2012. Estimated at $235 per magnum. We will accept reservations now.
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Fontodi "Vigna del Sorbo" Chianti Classico Riserva 2008
$71.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case, arriving late April
 Another thoroughbred in Fontodi's stable is the Vigna del Sorbo. A single-vineyard blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.
If you enjoy Antinori's Tignanello, but would like something a little more exclusive, I highly recommend this wine. Both are single-vineyards, both could be labeled Chianti Classico Riserva (as Tig was originally) or IGT, both are Sangiovese and Cabernet (Tig occasionally receives a dash of Cab Franc), and both wines receive virtually identical scores every year, however Vigna del Sorbo is almost $30 less per bottle in Ontario.
"The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is beautiful in this vintage. It shows gorgeous mid-palate depth and pliancy, with wonderful richness in its sweet dark fruit, smoke, licorice and grilled herbs. The 10% Cabernet Sauvignon works particularly well in this vintage, as it seems to give the wine a measure of depth and delineation that is less obvious in the Flaccianello. Higher toned floral notes add lift on the finish. The Vigna del Sorbo is a touch restrained in 2008, as are most wines, yet it shows fabulous balance and tons of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028."
93 points, Wine Advocate, August 2011 |
Maison Alex Gambal Vosne-Romanée "Vieilles Vignes" 2009
$82.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case
 "Vosne-Romanée is the greatest Pinot Noir village on earth ... the style is for wines which are rich, austere, masculine and aristocratic" Cote d'Or by Clive Coates, 1997.
To truly appreciate Pinot Noir, one must experience the wines of Vosne-Romanee. This tiny village is home to the most famous vineyards in Burgundy, possibly the most famous anywhere, and Gambal's blend of Au-dessus de le Riviere and Vigneux AOC vineyards provides an elegant example - spicy, concentrated and flavourful.
"Smokey aromas introduce a wine that is structured and concentrated, with intense fruit and acidity. Firm tannins, a subtle touch of wood and fine richness all combine mellifluously."
91 points, Wine Enthusiast, September 2011
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Stratus Gamay 2009
$29.00 per bottle, 6 or 12 bottles per case
 I think by now, it is widely understood that the varietals that will lead Ontario's wine regions into the international limelight are Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and Riesling. But another that I think is vastly underappreciated is Gamay. But this is not the Gamay that produces light, bubble gummy Beaujolais Nouveau, or even the classic and age-worthy Moulin-a-Vents and Cote de Brouilly.
Ontario Gamay has a quality all its own, perhaps given to the limestone, not granitic soils as are found in Beaujolais. Ontario Gamays are packed with bright blue fruit, vibrant acidity, soft but plentiful tannin and a tell tale aroma of rubber or "black garden hose". I remember a well-known Ontario winemaker mentioning that years and years ago, I've never forgotten it and can always pick them out blind.
I had the pleasure to sit through a 32-wine marathon tasting of Stratus' complete collection two weeks ago and this Gamay nailed it! I was immediately struck by that aroma and pleasantly thought to myself, "ah, there it is, now that's terroir."
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Ridge "Lytton Springs" 2009
750 ml - $49.95 per bottle, 6 bottles per case 375 ml - $25.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case, arriving early April
 In 1901 the first parcel of 32 acres of vines was planted at the Lytton Estate and in 1910 another twelve. These vines are still in production today and constitute most of the blend that is Lytton Springs - Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane. Alicante Bouchet, Mataro and other "mixed black varietals" make up the balance, but rarely make the grade for Lytton Springs.
If you have the opportunity to visit the new Lytton Springs winery near Healdsburg you can enjoy all the Ridge wines while sitting inches away from these gnarled, twisty, beautiful vines.
"The 2009 Lytton Springs is the biggest and most structured of these 2009 Zinfandel-based reds, largely owing to the earthier soils and the presence 23% Petite Sirah. Black fruit, plums, tar, licorice and smoke are some of the notes that flow from this generous, inviting red. The Lytton Springs is fairly structured, and can definitely benefit from another year or two (perhaps more) in bottle. The blend is 74% Zinfandel, 21% Petite Sirah and 5% Carignane. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2029."
95 points, Wine Advocate, August 2011
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Ridge "Geyserville" 2009
750ml - $49.95 per bottle, 6 bottle per case 375ml - $25.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 Whitton Ranch in Alexander Valley, from which the Geyserville bottling is sourced features vines over 130 years old. The "old patch" has been at the heart and soul of Geyserville every year since 1966. The inclusion of Carignane and Alicante Bouchet makes Geyserville more aromatic and less burly than the Lytton Springs, featured above.
"The 2009 Geyserville is a gorgeous wine. It shows expressive inner perfume, sweet black cherries, menthol and minerals. This is an understated, exceptionally elegant red endowed with considerable finesse and fabulous overall balance. A round, sensual finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. In 2009 the blend is 74% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, 6% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouschet and 1% Mourvedre. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2029."
94 points, Wine Advocate, August 2011
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Capiaux "Pisoni" Pinot Noir 2009
$67.95 per bottle, 12 bottles per case
 "Pisoni" Pinot Noirs from the Santa Lucia Highlands have a richness and power that most Pinot Noir can't attain. If you enjoy big, soft Cabernets or Merlots or wines from Southern Rhone, but are looking for something with less tannin, something equally flavourful but silkier, I highly recommend this wine.
"The 2009 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard is a sexy wine that captures the essence of the Pisoni vineyard. Layers of dark black cherries lead to violets, licorice and spices as the wine shows off its depth and juiciness. This is pure Pisoni, but with an extra touch of structural depth and tannin to support the fruit. A round, seamless finish leaves a lasting impression. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. " 92 points, Robert Parker, February 2012 |
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Most sincerely,
Chris McLean
416 961 2294 x 29 |
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