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Rogers & Company
A New Year and New Wines
January 2012
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Greetings!
Happy new year! I hope your holiday season was restful and filled with great memories with family and friends, hopefully a lot of wine too. If your wine cellar is a little thin (like mine) or if you'd like to treat yourself to toast another year ahead, I have pulled together an intriguing selection of wines newly introduced to the Ontario market and some just-arrived new vintages of some favourites, including three exciting 2009's from Peay Vineyards.
Prices here are per 750ml bottle, taxes in, but not including the $0.20 bottle deposit. We sell only by the unmixed case. Visit Rogers & Company on the web for scores, tasting notes and catalogues.
Sincerely,
Chris.
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Brigaldara Soave DOC 2010
$17.95 per bottle, 12 per case
 Garganega, the dominant grape variety in Soave, is grown nowhere else but north-eastern Italy, predominantly the Veneto. A sea of insipid, machine-harvested Soave clutters shelves all over the world, but in the hands of artisan winemakers like Brigaldara's Stefano Cesari, it is transformed into a soft and satiny wine, light on the palate but rich in flavours of citrus, almond and spice.
If you enjoy Pinot Grigio, light Chardonnays or Chablis, this wine might make for an interesting change. Whenever I think of Soave, my mind goes right to pan-sauteed rainbow trout with buttery fingerling potatoes. |
Domaine Huet "Le Haut Lieu" Vouvray Sec 2010
$33.95 per bottle, 12 per case
 "Superracy, floral and pure, with enticing ginger, quince and mineral notes that ripple through the filigreed finish. Lovely orange blossom and honeysuckle notes fill in the background. Dry, but still generous, with impressive length. Best from 2013 through 2018."
92 points, Wine Spectator Insider, December 31, 2011
Domaine Huet is the reference point winery for Vouvray and arguably for Chenin Blanc globally as well. Few wineries produce the number of wines that Huet does, and far fewer at this quality level. The "Le Haut Lieu" Sec is the dry Vouvray from the Le Haut Lieu vineyard, which tends to produce the most fruit-forward of their wines. Consider this their entry-point, yet it still has the energy to age for a very long time. When young, this wine is a pleasure to drink for its distinct flavours that only Chenin Blanc can offer, but holding it for 8-10 years also offers a memorably complex drinking experience.
Another of Domaine Huet's wines, the Vouvray Moelleux "Clos du Bourg" Premier Trie 2009 was recently awarded Wine Spectator's #3 Wine of the Year for 2011. |
Grayson Cellars California Chardonnay 2010
$18.95 per bottle, 12 per case
 "It's about time Grayson Cellars receives recognition for the extraordinary bargains it is creating. There is a lot of high quality fruit available for buying and turning into wine given the hard economic hit vineyards of California have absorbed, and Grayson Cellars appears to be exploiting that to their advantage as well as to that of consumers. Winemaker Larry Levin is doing some remarkable work here, turning out wines that defy belief given their price points. Kudos to him and the owner of Grayson Cellars."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, February 2010
That's some praise! And we feel the same way. The wines from Grayson, which includes a Cabernet Sauvignon (listed below) offer tremendous value. The Grayson Chardonnay is bright and fruity, medium bodied, a little spicy and bursting with charm. |
Peay "Estate" Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2009
$72.95 per bottle, 12 per case only 5 cases available
 The far-Sonoma coast is currently the epicentre for world-class Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in California. The wineries producing here are at the top of any collector's list - Flowers, Hirsch, Marcassin, Kistler, Pahlmeyer and Peay to name only a few.
Peay Vineyards is a three person team making tiny amounts of wine, sometimes only 2,000 cases in total, and wowing the critics. In December 2009 they were named San Francisco Chronicle's "Winery of the Year". In 2008, VinTrust.com called the 2006 bottling of this Estate Chardonnay "Quite possibly the greatest Chardonnay produced in California."
The 2009 is a great vintage that's drinking really well now. If you enjoy fine white Burgundies - Chassagne-Montrachet or Grand Cru Chablis this wine will speak volumes.
"Light yellow. High-pitched aromas of lemon curd, green apple and honeysuckle, with sneaky iodine and spice nuances that gain power with air. Dusty, precise and palate-staining, offering dense citrus and orchard fruit flavours with zero fat. Notes of ginger and agave appear on the finish, which is linear and very persistent. I really like this wine's focus."
92 points, International Wine Cellar, May/June 2011 |
Tenuta Valdipiatta Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008
$30.95 per 750 ml bottle, 12 per case
$17.95 per 375ml bottle, 12 per case
 Valdipiatta is a leading producer in Montepulciano, and a brand new addition to the Rogers & Company catalogue.
Prugnolo Gentile, a local clone of Sangiovese is the grape here, and if you like the intensity, complexity and food affinity of Brunello di Montalcino or Chianti Classico, I suggest trying this wine. The 2008 vintage produced aromatic, terroir driven wines all across Tuscany and the Valdipiatta is a pleasure to drink now or age for 5 years.
"The 2008 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano impresses for its layered, expressive personality. Silky, polished tannins support a core of dark fruit, smoke and tobacco. The finish is long and impeccably refined. This is a beautiful effort, especially within the context of the vintage. The Vino Nobile is 85% Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) and 15% Canaiolo Nero, aged 18 months in a combination of neutral French oak barrels and Slavonian oak casks. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023."
91 points, Wine Advocate, August 2011
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Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva "Vigna del Sorbo" 2008
$71.95 per bottle, 6 per case
 For over 30 years, the Vigna del Sorbo vineyard has produced one of Tuscany's great wines. A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is in effect a "Super-Tuscan". Organically farmed, hand-harvested, hand sorted and matured in half-new and half-mature barriques for two years, it is a modern expression of the soils in Panzano.
In my opinion, the closest comparison this has in our market is Antinori's Tignanello. Both have been made for over 30 years, both are single vineyard wines from Chianti Classico, both are Sangiovese enhanced by Bordeaux varietals (technically Chianti Classico Riserva's but what's in a name?), both attain comparable reviews every year - and Vigna del Sorbo is $28 less per bottle.
"The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is beautiful in this vintage. It shows gorgeous mid-palate depth and pliancy, with wonderful richness in its sweet dark fruit, smoke, licorice and grilled herbs. The 10% Cabernet Sauvignon works particularly well in this vintage, as it seems to give the wine a measure of depth and delineation that is less obvious in the Flaccianello. Higher toned floral notes add lift on the finish. The Vigna del Sorbo is a touch restrained in 2008, as are most wines, yet it shows fabulous balance and tons of personality. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. " 93 points, Wine Advocate, August 2011 |
| Domaine Chofflet-Valdenaire Givry 2009
$34.95 per bottle, 12 per case
Domaine Chofflet-Valdenaire is new to Rogers & Company, but the Chofflet family has been making gorgeous, fruity Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in Givry for over 100 years. These wines are best enjoyed in their youth, but in top vintages they can evolve over 5 to 10 years. 2009 is an exceptional vintage and I recommend exploring the lesser known Burgundy appellations for serious values.
"This is rich and dripping with aromas and flavours of black cherry, blackberry and spice. There's plenty of flesh to coat the tannins, and a lingering finish. Best from 2012 through 2020."
90 points, Wine Spectator, web only 2011
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Saint Jean du Barroux "L'Argile" 2007
estimated $32 per bottle, 12 per case, ETA late January 2012
 A very exciting addition to our portfolio is Saint Jean du Barroux from Ventoux in the south of France. Phillipe Gimel's quest is to produce a wine unencumbered by oak, showcasing the magnificent terroir of his small 15 hectare estate, situated between les Dentelles and Mt. Ventoux.
All harvesting and sorting is done by hand, multiple passes through the organic vineyard ensures only the best fruit makes it into the tank. His tonnage is fantastically low, around 20 hectolitres per hectare. That may mean little, but let me translate. Conservatively, that's around 1.2 tons/acre. Any vineyard pulling less than 2 tons per acre is almost commercially unviable. This fanatical attention to detail is why his wines sell out every vintage and are hailed by critics.
"From his organic/biodynamically farmed vineyard, this blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and the rest Carignan and Cinsault, is outrageously delicious. Aged 18 months in oak tank and neutral oak, the wine has a dense purple colour and a wonderfully sweet nose of acacia flowers, lavender, roasted meats, black raspberries and creme de cassis. Superb fruit on the attack follows through on the mid-palate and finish. Beautifully textured, pure, and opulent, this is a stunning wine from a great vintage that has just been released. Drink it over the next 7-8 years."95 points, Wine Advocate, June 2011
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Saint Jean du Barroux "La Pierre Noire" 2007
estimated $42 per bottle, 12 per case, ETA late January 2012
 La Pierre Noire represents the pinnacle of Phillipe Gimel's winemaking. Harvested at 15 hectolitres per hectare, or less than one ton per acre, Phillipe is looking for fantastic concentration. Fermented using native yeasts and eschewing oak, this is as natural as wine can be. If you are an enthusiast for top Chateauneuf-du-Papes, I highly recommend this one.
Although the 2007 has yet to be reviewed, here is the Wine Advocate's take on the 2006, to which they awarded 94 points (Aug 2010), and based on L'Argile's review above, we expect even higher scores in 2007.
"A sensational red, it reveals a grand cru Burgundy-like bouquet of forest floor, black raspberries, and flowers, extraordinarily intense fruit, and a full-bodied yet delicate, layered mouthfeel. I know it sounds ridiculous, but its aromatics reminded me of some top vintages of Cotes de Nuits grand crus, although no oak is utilized. A remarkable achievement, it can be consumed over the next 4-5 years, although it may last even longer. A breakthrough effort for the Cotes du Ventoux, this 2006, made by proprietor Philippe Gimel from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyards, is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah. (I was not surprised to learn that Gimel apprenticed under Christophe Sabon at Domaine de la Janasse.) Yields were 15 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine was aged in concrete tanks." |
Grayson Cellars California Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
$18.95 per bottle, 12 per case
Grayson sources the fruit for this Cabernet from Napa Valley, Sonoma County and Mendocino County growers. Because of this cross-AVA blending, it's labeled "California", but compared to other "California" Cabs that source fruit from Paso Robles or the central valley, this is in another league.
The 2010 hasn't yet been reviewed, but the 2009 received 88 points and the following praise from Wine Advocate in December 2010:
"Even better is the 30,000-case cuvee of 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (aged 9 months in stainless steel and neutral French oak). The "real deal," it is a velvety textured, lush, round, crowd-pleasing Cabernet revealing a dark ruby colour as well as lots of black currant and herb notes intermixed with a hint of smoke......This is a remarkable operation producing relatively large quantities of wines that offer sensational value."
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"Peay "Scallop Shelf" Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2009
$79.95 per bottle, 6 per case
 Half of the Peay Estate vineyard is riddled with fosslilized mollusc shells, the other half used to be a Gravenstein apple orchard. The Peays designate the respective Pinots from these lieu dits "Scallop Shelf" and "Pomarium". In 2009 they've also produced an estate blend called "Ama", listed below.
Winemaker Vanessa Wong describes it like this: "The nose on the 2009 Scallop Shelf Estate Pinot Noir opens with a bright, hi-toned bouquet resplendent with floral and light red fruit aromas. As the wine opens up, underneath the initial impression is a deeper core of Rainier cherries and brass notes framed by intoxicating brown spices. The 2009 offers the black tea, orange rind, jasmine, cranberry and lingonberry notes found in previous vintages of the Scallop Shelf. It is a little more delicate and light on its feet than the 2008 or 2006 with a superb balance of tannins, acidity and fruit and has an ethereal quality-volume without heaviness in the mid-palate- that further beguiles and is quite persistent on the finish. Undoubtedly, a feminine expression of Pinot Noir; elegant, floral, balanced and subtle. It can be enjoyed now but will improve with at least 3 years of bottle age as the aromas coalesce. It should hit its peak in 5-7 years."
The San Francisco Chronicle listed the 2009 Scallop Shelf in their Top 100 Wines of 2011 with the following review: "Even as the Peays have expanded their Pinot roster, this 2009 bottling that highlights the savoury, mineral side of their Annapolis estate is resplendent. Black tea, moss and perfumed berry notes have a notable delicacy, and the typically deep structure that's a signature of winemaker Vanessa Wong is well-cloaked behind a wall of aromas. Speaking in a quieter voice, this is alluring Pinot for the ages." |
Ehlers Estate "1886" Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
$129.95 per bottle, 6 per case
Before winemaker Kevin Morrisey took the helm at little Ehlers Estate, his skills were honed as an intern at Chateau Petrus as well as wine maker and Director of Operations at Tony Soter's Etude and wine maker and GM at Stags' Leap Winery.
The 1886 is the premier wine made by Kevin, an homage to the year that the vineyard was first planted by Bernard Ehlers. It is farmed using bio-dynamic principles, and thus no chemical pesticides, herbicides or fungicides. The resulting wine is a powerful statement of St. Helena mid-valley terroir.
"The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 1886 is a beautifully delineated wine with expressive aromatics and plenty of nuances. Blackberries, Chambord, spices, white flowers and licorice are some of the notes that emerge from this generous, fruit-driven Cabernet Sauvignon. This feminine, graceful Cabernet Sauvignon should continue to drink well for a decade or so. In 2008 the blend is 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, aged in French oak barrels, 70% new. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020."
93 points, Wine Advocate, December 2011
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Altamura Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2008
$117.95 per bottle, 12 per case
 Frank Altamura's winery has quickly become one of Napa Valley's most consistent Cabernet Sauvignon producers. Farmed in the cool, fog-laden sub-appellation Wooden Valley, he works with 15 different soil types, providing Frank with a wide palette from which to blend. The style is rich, detailed and elegant, structured to unfold slowly over decades. 2004 - 94 pts Wine Advocate, 91 pts Wine Spectator 2005 - 95 pts Wine Advocate, 93 pts Wine Spectator 2006 - 94 pts Wine Advocate, 94 pts Wine Spectator 2007 - 95 pts Wine Advocate, 96 pts and #5 Wine of the Year, Wine Spectator "Combines very ripe, spicy dark berry fruit that's even a touch racy, with a firm backbone and a well-structured mix of acidity and tannins. The fruit is potent and concentrated, yet also shows a suppleness and measure of grace. Should only get better. Drink now through 2024. 3,000 cases made."
94 points, Wine Spectator, December 2011
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Chris McLean
416 961 2294 |
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