Rogers & Company Newsletter
"The Art of the Blend" Feb 26, 2010
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Greetings!
For this month's newsletter, I thought it would be interesting to speak of some of the wines in our portfolio that are blended wines. Few wines are 100% single-grape, or in wine-speak, mono-varietal. Most California Cabs and Merlots have a few "Bordeaux" varietals blended in for more complexity and to provide more of a mid-palate or more fruitiness. Champagnes are blends of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, to varying degrees. All Bordeaux wines are blends, the proportions depending on which commune produces it, and even then, the producers have licence to adjust percentages. Chateauneuf-du-Papes are the most diverse blends, which can use thirteen different grapes, 14 if you count Grenache Blanc.
The reason is two-fold.
First, most varietals alone do not provide the complexity that multiple varietals can, they just work better as a team. Secondly, in areas with vintage variation, multiple grapes afford winemakers the ability to make the best wine possible if one grape suffers a poor vintage. Grape vines flower and ripen at different times and adverse weather at harvest can affect the quality of one grape while the others have already been harvested. Reference Tuscany in 2002, when the Sangiovese (late ripening) was a wash out (literally, due to rain) but the Cab Sauvignon and Cab Franc was fantastic and already picked. Wineries either declassified bottlings from DOC or DOCG status to IGT or adjusted blends within the rules. Many great and one-of-a-kind wines were made because of this. So, here are a selection of our blends to consider. As always, prices are per bottle pre-GST and bottle deposit. Visit Rogers & Company for our entire portfolio and constantly updated catalogues.
Please forward this to any colleagues or friends that might enjoy reading it.
Thanks and best regards, Chris.
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Tiefenbrunner Cuvée Anna 2008 [750ml/6case] ETA mid-March est'd $24.95
Tiefenbrunner's captivating Cuvée Anna used to only be available through private order, but because of its popularity, we've made it available year-round. This is a beautiful blend of Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco in roughly equal proportions. The soft, floral and gently spicy character of the Pinot Grigio is supported by the succulence of the mid-palate weight of the more full-bodied Pinot Bianco. Rarely do you find a wine that is at home in a glass sipped al fresco and at the dinner table. Pan roasted black cod or sea bass seems to me to make a beautiful match.
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Champagne Vilmart & Cie "Coeur de Cuvée" 2001 [750ml/6case] ETA mid/late April estimated $113.95
I can't say anything better than these two reviews, so here it goes.......
" It starts off smelling like new shoes and caramel. But man the palate is literally unbelievable, it has to be the best wine in Champagne in 2001. It isn't large, and the finish is more a whisper than a song, but this chrome-brilliant, silvery mid-palate just sizzles in an unfathomable flourescent buzz, washing into a kind of molten coldness, and with a second sip even the finish swells into a minty grip that actually rises vapourously into the soft palate. You need to borrow another guy's brain to help you grasp the deep-orange neon silver miasma of this baby." 3 of 3 stars, Terry Thiese, Champagne catalogue 2009
"The 2001 Brut Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée is a phenomenal wine, especially considering the tricky year. The 2001 is a big, imposing Coeur de Cuvée that explodes from the glass with waves of mineral-infused fruit. Here, too, the oak is beautifully balanced. The finish remains intensely chalky, yet creamy. Today the 2001 is painfully young and in need of time on the cork, but it is terrific in every way. The mousse is slightly less polished than the exceptional 2000 tasted alongside it, but that is splitting hairs at this level. The Coeur de Cuvée is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir aged in oak. Only the middle 800 liters, i.e. the "heart" is used for the wine. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. Proprietor Laurent Champs makes some of the most elegant, refined wines in Champagne. All of the wines are aged in oak ranging from large, neutral casks to small barriques, some of which are new for the top selections. Few producers have been able to find such impeccable balance using oak. A hint of Ramonet here, a suggestion of Leflaive there....simply put, these are majestic wines that no one who loves fine Champagne will want to be without." 93 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, December 2009
I am accepting reservations for this wine now. The next arrival is 6-8 weeks away.
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Conundrum 2008 [750ml/12case] $24.95 at Vintages stores as an "LCBO Essential" Item #694653
With the 1989 vintage Caymus Vineyards set off to produce a wine unlike any others. The goal was to capture the floral, haunting bouquet of Muscat, in a dry, multi-faceted table wine.
Warm Tulare County is the source of the Muscat. Here it attains an almost tropical richness of orange blossoms and spices. To compliment this powerfully aromatic varietal; Monterey County provides the bright fruit and vivid acidity of Chardonnay, the honey notes and smokiness of Semillon and the soft mouthfeel and white peach flavours of Viognier; Napa Valley provides the Sauvignon Blanc, which brings more acidity and fresh cut melon notes.
Each varietal and each lot sees different treatment in their fermentation and maturation processes until winemaker Jon Bolta has a palette of over sixty distinctive wines to blend with. Each year, this wine becomes more and more elegant, yet each is still representative of the vintage conditions.
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Wildass White 2006 [750ml/12case] $18.81
Stratus Vineyards' second label. This is a stellar value from a fantastic white wine vintage in Niagara. When producing Stratus White each lot is vinified and matured with the intent of becoming the flagship wine. Only at blending do lots become "Stratus" or "Wildass" and these decisions are based on which work best together to produce the best wine, not only the "best" lots.
It's like picking the Olympic hockey team. You wouldn't just pick the top 15 players in the league, you pick the players that work best as a team. Balanced attacks, skill and experience wins gold and balance and complexity produces great wines. So, with that being said, some of the components of Wildass are "all-stars" that just didn't benefit the Stratus White, so they're in Wildass. The remainder is hot shot rookies, cagey veterans and guys that just signed a huge contract in the off-season. (sorry, that analogy kind of got away from me)
"A Chardonnay-based blend with Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Viognier. The 2006 Wildass has a lovely nose of fresh, ripe stone fruit, yellow flowers, white peach, yellow apple and really finely integrated wood. The addition of Viognier for the first time adds the attractive floral note. The palate is medium bodied and well balanced, with the characteristic creamy-leesy texture for which Stratus is known. Long, subtlely spiced finish. A really successful wine that is ready to enjoy now but will certainly continue to evolve over the next couple of years. A premium wine and a fabulous value." 90 points, John Szabo MS, February 2009
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Stratus White 2006 [750ml/6 or 12 per case] $42.12
This is the flagship white from Niagara-on-the-Lake's most advanced winery. Because of the blend of estate grown fruit, this wine has a little bit of everything. The smokiness and grassiness of white Bordeaux, the richness of Hermitage Blanc, the exotic fruit of Califonia Chardonnay....a wine for all palates. Great with food or on its own.
"The 2006 Stratus white is a worthy follow-up to the outstanding 2005 edition, and could even be the best yet; the winery seems to be going from strength to strength. Although barrel notes are evident, they are superbly integrated and will add simply another layer of complexity in time. There is plenty of lovely, fresh pineapple, peach, orange blossom, violet essence aromas, while the palate is fullish and solidly structured with both fatness and vibrant acidity, creating a creamy yet well-defined flavour profile. It is rare to find delicacy allied to such weight and power. The finish is very long and perfumed. Very fine indeed." 92 points, John Szabo MS, February 2009
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Falchini Paretaio IGT 2005 [750ml/6case] ETA mid-March est'd $28.95
"The estate's 2005 Paretaio is a single-vineyard Sangiovese with a touch of Cabernet that spends a year in oak. Dark cherries, licorice and spices emerge as this dense, full-bodied wine flows from the glass. The 2005 Paretaio reveals excellent length and balance. Another year or two should help the tannins soften a bit. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020." 89 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, August 2009
Here's a smart buy in the Super-Tuscan category. Owner/winemaker Riccardo Falchini is a member of the "Titolati" (the word means "The Selected"),
an association of enlightened producers that reinforce the highest of
standards that must be adhered to in the identified vineyards and the
demanding norms of vinification that will result in the optimum
achievement in the wine offered. Falchini has won many awards
and commendations for his wines.
Riccardo's consulting enologist is Giacomo Tachis,
creator of Tignanello, Sassicaia, Solaia and other great
Italian wines.
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Querciabella "Camartina" 2006 [750ml/6case] $129.95
Here is one of Tuscany's highest scoring wines of the beautiful 2006 vintage. Querciabella is a qualitative leader in Tuscany - producer of our exciting, everyday Mongrana IGT, the top-notch Querciabella DOCG (Chianti Classico) and in only great years one of Italy's most prized and rare white wines, Batar.
"The estate's 2006 Camartina (70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese) is awesome in the way it marries considerable ripeness with a firm, classic sense of structure. Black cherries, minerals, menthol, tar and subtle French oak are some of the nuances that emerge from the 2006 Camartina. This is a decidedly big, powerful Camartina that will require some patience, but all of the ingredients are there for this to be one of the finest versions of this wine ever made. I remember visiting Querciabella in late 2006. At the time estate manager Cesare Turini and Oenologist Guido De Santi were thrilled with the quality of their harvest, which had been saved by a spell of cool weather towards the end of the growing season. Tasting the Camartina it is easy to see why; this wine has it all. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021." 95 points, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, September 2009
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Chateau Capet Guillier 2006 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru [750ml/12case] $36.95
This beautiful property in St. Hippolyte was in the care of the Capet
and Guillier families for over 200 years, is now owned by the
Société Château Capet-Guillier. The wine is a rich and robust,
old-fashioned style of Saint-Emilion; the blend being approximately 80%
Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. It has pure red-fruit flavours but with old world typicity, good acidity and fine, gentle tannins.
Two-thousand and six was a "drinking vintage". Not one that you put away for decades, but one for immediate and short term enjoyment (within a decade). Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Vintage Chart awards 88 pts to the vintage. This translates to an excellent year with early maturing and accessible wines.
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Cain Concept "Library Edition" 2001 [750ml/6case] $76.00 limited availability
Cain Concept is a Meritage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon from the famed Georges III and Tokalon vineyards, Cabernet Franc from Truchard Vineyard in the cool Carneros region and Merlot and Petit Verdot from vineyards in Oakville and Rutherford.
Each year Cain holds back some wine for release as a "Library Edition". Currently we offer this 2001 as well as the 2005 Cain Concept, packed in sixes at $59.95. This is a great opportunity to compare and contrast two exceptional vintages from one exceptional winery.
This is only the second release of the Library Edition series
and it demonstrates all the reasons why you want to age wine. The bouquet
becomes ever so much more subtle and complex. No longer poised primarily on vibrant fruit, the
wine now reveals layers. The palate becomes silky, smooth, and
sumptuous, with an exquisitely graceful finish.
Five extra years
in the bottle has revealed one thing: the 2001 was a superb vintage for
Cain Concept. An additional five years just begins to reveal the
potential of this wine. You could drink it now with great pleasure
(decant it for an extra boost), or keep it for another five years.
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Cain Five 2005 [750ml/6case] $104.95
The June 2007 edition of The Wine News featured Cain in its main
article "The Flowering of Spring Mountain". Contributing Editor Jeff
Cox wrote "I have made a pilgrimage here because a bottle of 1990
Cain Five made from Spring Mountain fruit remains the single-most
delicious California Meritage I've ever tasted."
That's some big praise, but not surprising. Cain Five has always played in the big leagues with Caymus, Shafer, Colgin and Harlan, but eschewed the scores of the mainstream publications like Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate for sommelier praises and word of mouth endorsement.
The 2005 Cain Five shows the emphasis placed on mouth feel: the texture
of the tannins is extremely fine, yet distinctly present. The aromas
are of fresh red cherries and exotic spices. The wine evolves very well
in the open glass, which bodes well for the future. Today, you should
decant the wine and sip it carefully. This wine will age gracefully for
a long, long time. This is a wine to consider if you plan to celebrate a 25th anniversary or a child's birthday in 2030.
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Stratus Red 2006 [750ml/ 6 or 12 per case] $42.12
Technological innovation is pushed to the limits at Stratus. Interestingly, it's to make an ultra-modern yet "old world" style of wine; one that is focused on elegance, balance, harmony and long term age-ability rather than raw power and gusto. A wine perfect for the table and the cellar.
"The 2006 red shows the restrain of the vintage, yet no pronounced herbaceous character thanks to late harvesting (late October-early November). Fruit tends to dried red currant and strawberry, and tannins are elegant and dusty, resting on vibrant acidity. Having tasted this several times, I suspect it's going through a bit of a dumb stage and will need another 2-3 years to evolve on the other side. In any case it's not as rich as the 2005, and is more suited to old world red drinkers preferring freshness and delicacy over weight and power. This will always be one of the lighter and more elegant reds." 90 points, John Szabo MS, Ontario Wine Report 2009
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Ridge "Lytton Springs" 2007 [750ml/6case] $47.95
This Lytton Springs needs little introduction; one of the myriad single-vineyard bottlings produced by the brilliant Paul Draper. It impresses critics every year, drinks well young, and can age gracefully for 10+ years, especially in a vintage as lovely as 2007.
Ridge is regarded as a top producer in the U.S. and Robert Parker's book "World's Greatest Wine Estates" can back this up. This wine is of California's greats, with a 37 year track record and now packed in cases of six.
"71% Zinfandel, 22% Petite Sirah, 7% Carignan. Ripe enough to push its berryish fruit in the direction of high concentration, this wine pulls back from the brinkwith layered notes of pepper and slightly toasty, never pushy oak. Its solid yet quietly brawny side shows in latter palate tannins and firming acidity, and what starts out as generous wine in the nose, turns tighter and quite age-demanding in the mouth. Do not be afraid to put this one aside for three to six years." 91 points, Connoisseur's Guide to California Wines, January 2010
"Deep ruby. Heavily oak-influenced at the outset, showing candied dark berries, cherry-cola, bourbon and vanilla scents, along with notes of clove and incense. Extended aeration helps to dissipate the oak notes and allows sweet raspberry and blueberry fruit to emerge on the palate. Soft tannins add support but quickly fade into the sweet, velvety fruit on the finish. If you plan on opening this any time soon, give it a few hours in a decanter." 90 (+?) points, International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 2009
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Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet/Merlot 2006 [750ml/6case] $48.95
The limestone ridge that is Monte Bello Vineyard was first planted by Italian immigrants in 1885. Today it produces one of California's most distinctive and collectable wines, the Ridge Monte Bello and its able lieutenant, the Santa Cruz Cabernet/Merlot. This wine doesn't stray too far from its famous sibling's style. Pure red fruit with minerality to spare; it is poised and balanced. This wine doesn't hammer the palate, it caresses it. Enjoy it now with some decanting or put it away for a few years and follow its evolution.
"Complex red fruit, spice, mineral notes. Plush, sleek, fine. Soft, fresh acids, Lovely style. Classy and elegant. From 2011" 4 of 5 stars, "Highly Recommended", Decanter, February 2010
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Neagles Rock Clare Valley "Mr. Duncan" Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 [750ml/12case] $21.95
In the November 30th 2009 Wine Spectator, Matt Kramer included the wines from Clare Valley, Australia in his list of "Wines to try before...well, you know". He calls them "persuasive wines". Australia's reputation has been warped over the last decade by blockbuster Barossas and monumental McLaren Vales, but this cool area 50 miles northwest of Barossa is producing singular, meaningful wines at great price points, with great form and structure for the cellar.
Neagles Rock is a great example of Clare valley. It's a relatively new winery, but has attained James Halliday's highest honour, 4 stars for 5 or more years. His "4 stars" means"capable of producing wines at the highest level and did so this year". The Mr. Duncan is a serious Aussie red, deep in flavour and colour, sweet and spicy with the cool Clare Valley acidity and firm tannic structure. Decant it now for youthful drinking or feel free to cellar for 5+ years.
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Chris McLean 416 961 2294 x 29
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