Rogers & Company Newsletter Great values and Two events
Spring 2009
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Greetings!
I hope all is well, and that you have had a chance to enjoy the first few days of spring 2009. I know I did, even though it didn't exactly feel spring-like. There are two special events occuring that I'd like to tell you about, along with my new, seasonal wine selection.
Firstly, Lucien, named by Toronto Life magazine as Toronto's best new restaurant in 2008, is offering a promotion on Mondays through Thursdays called "Great Wines for Our Times". A selection of some of the top names in wine, including our very own Chateau Montelena, Domaine Leflaive, Domaine Luquet, Duckhorn, Ridge, Caymus and Altesino, at extraordinarily fair prices. Please contact Lucien for more information, 416 504 9990.
Secondly, on March 30th at 7 p.m., lago restaurant at Eagle's Nest Golf Club in Maple, Ontario will be hosting a special gastronomic dinner event featuring the wines of the Wagner family. Belle Glos and Caymus winemaker Joey Wagner will be in attendance to talk about his wines which will be paired with lago's wonderful cuisine. Wines to be poured include Mer Soleil Chardonnay 2006, Belle Glos Meiomi 2007, Belle Glos Las Alturas 2007 and Belle Glos Taylor Lane 2007 single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, Caymus Cabernet 1999 and 2006, Caymus Special Selection 2006 and Mer Soleil "Late" 2004. $250 per person, for more information, contact Neil at 647-221-4101.
So now, to my news. I want to speak about value. Thanks to the current economic situation, I know we're re-evaluating where we spend and how, but we're pleasure seekers, so we still treat ourselves now and then. Louis Pasteur, the father of modern winemaking once said, "a day without good wine is like a day without sunshine". I couldn't agree more.
We're not going to stop enjoying life's pleasures, we're just going to put our money where we know it will bring the most return. For me, it's wines from wineries that have impressed me time and again.
To me value is not found in a wine that is "okay and inexpensive". I find it in a wine that I feel I've paid a fair price for, and the wine has surpassed my expectations. This can be found in inexpensive wines that really drink above their price range and have a "sense of place", and in more expensive collectable wines that just overwhelm our senses.
Here's a few that I feel fall into both camps. Prices are per bottle, pre-GST. Availabilities are subject to change. I always have a new catalogue available at www.rogcowines.com, along with scores, and information related to our whole portfolio.
All the best,
Chris.
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Pieropan Soave Classico 2007 [750ml/12case] $20.95
 Last week's Globe & Mail column by Beppi Crosariol praised good Soave as the perfect wine for spring. I stress good Soave, as there is a sea of insipid, overcropped, virtually flavourless Soave on shelves that give the artisnal wines a bad name. Pieropan is considered the leader in the appellation.
In Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, March/April 2008, Mr. Tanzer wrote...
"Leonildo
Pieropan is one of Italy's five or six best white wine producers, and
his Soaves are benchmarks for the category. His passion for Soave is
evident from his refusal to include Chardonnay in his wines, rightly
believing that it masks the true character of Soave. Instead, he is one
of the few to have really invested in Trebbiano di Soave, a
high-quality but long overlooked member of the Trebbiano family which,
depending on whom you believe, is either closely related or identical
to Verdicchio."
Here's some press for the 2007:
"This is a classy, elegant Soave redolent of white peaches, smoke and earthiness. Made in a taut, focused style, it possesses excellent depth and lovely overall balance."
88 points, Wine Advocate, August 2008
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Altesino Rosso di Toscana IGT 2006 [750ml/12case] $20.95
 Who better to over-deliver in terms of dollar to pleasure ratio, than Montalcino's most renowned estate. A blend of Sangiovese (Brunello), Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon from an outstanding vintage (96 pts, Wine Advocate), we call this baby-brunello. It leads with a very feminine, floral bouquet, and follows through as a soft, easy drinking red, lower than most in alcohol, with refined somewhat modern sangiovese character.
"Their 2006 Rosso di Altesino is 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon aged in stainless steel. Medium in body, this accessible red possesses attractive notes of dark fruit, earthiness and herbs, with excellent length and fine balance. "
87 points, Wine Advocate, August 2008
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Querciabella DOCG 2006 [750ml/12case] $37.95
 For all intents and purposes, this wine is Chianti Classico, but the winery prefers to just label it Querciabella, as it is the foremost wine in their portfolio. This is the first time we've offered it as the winery is new to our portfolio, but it is consistently rated as one of the best Chianti Classicos produced.
Wine Spectator named this #81 Wine of the Year for 2008.
"A rich, round wine, with plum and berry character and soft tannins.
Full-bodied, with berry and dark chocolate character and a long finish.
Juicy. Outstanding value. Drink now through 2012. 12,000 cases made."
91 points, Wine Spectator, October 2008
"Gorgeous aromatics waft from the glass as the 2006 Chianti Classico Querciabella (95% Sangiovese and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon) opens to reveal a super-elegant expression of fresh berries, flowers and tobacco. The plumpness of the fruit makes the wine very appealing today, but there is sufficient tannic clout to suggest at least medium-term aging potential. In recent years Quericabella's Chianti Classico has established a new benchmark for finessed Chianti made in a contemporary style that nevertheless remains faithful to Sangiovese and the unique qualities of these sites. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2021."
91 pts, Wine Advocate, June 2008
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Falchini Paretaio IGT 2004 [750ml/6case] $28.95
 "The 2004 Paretaio is 100% Sangiovese aged in French oak. The wine reveals generous dark fruit intermingled with sweet toasted oak, earthiness, tobacco, smoke and leather in a plump style of notable depth. The tannins build on the finish, but another year or two of bottle age should help this medium-bodied wine find its sense of balance and proportion. This is an especially strong vintage for this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019."
91 points, Wine Advocate, June 2008
I couldn't have said it better myself. The 2004s from Tuscany offer fantastic value in the IGT and Chianti Classico Riserva categories. This wine is impressive every year for the price, but in 2004 it really steps up to a new level.
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Li Veli Salento Rosso IGT "Passamante" 2007 [750ml/12cs] $18.95
 Puglia is paradise for grapes. The windswept 'heel' of Italy is bathed by sun almost every day of the year, but the surrounding Mediterranean Sea's winds keeps the air moving through the vineyards, allowing for true ripeness and flavour development.
This exquisite wine is made from the classic southern Italian variety of Negroamaro. It possesses an intense deep ruby colour with violet hues. The nose is full with a persistent fragrance of prune, cherry and marmalade underpinned by caramel oak notes and a touch of cracked pepper. The palate is rich with flavours of plum and dark chocolate and an intriguing sense of almond comes through on the impressive finish.
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Champagne Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d'Aÿ Brut NV
[750ml/6cs] $53.95
 So, it's not exactly Champagne season, but it never hurts to have a six-pack of it on hand, for special occasions; birthday dinnners, wedding gifts, brunch with family, closing the big sale, winning the office March Madness pool...etc.
Gaston Chiquet's is one of the few minerally Champagnes you'll find, and dollar for dollar I can't think of a better value Champagne. The wines are estate grown and produced - controlled from soil to glass by the man who blends them. Small production and attention to detail are hallmarks of this family-run estate.
"From vines planted by Nicolas Chiquet's grandfather, this Chardonnay has a distinct red fruit character that is almost startling in a blanc de blancs Champagne. Aÿ is traditionally Pinot Noir ground and the terroir speaks through this wine more insistently than the variety. It feels muscular and firm, with mouthwatering, orange-tinged acidity, a delicious parallel to the red tinge of lobster."
92 points, Wine & Spirits, December 2008
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Domaine Brusset Côtes du Rhône 2007 "Laurent Brusset"
[750ml/12case] $18.35
 Domaine Brusset is the top wine producer of Gigondas, one of the more important villages from the Southern Rhone. Here old vine Grenache produces rich, dark, complex wines similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but at a friendlier price. Domaine Brusset's wines 'Le Grand Montmirail' and 'Les Hauts de Montmirail' are two of the top wines of the region. Not co-incidentally, I have them both available as well, and both are 90+ point wines in 2006.
Each time we pour this friendly Côtes du Rhône, clients are shocked by the succulence and juiciness. A blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault. This surprisingly rich, round, warm, medium bodied Côtes du
Rhône also shows moderate tannin and good balancing acidity. Enjoyable
now, it will drink well over the next five to six years. Definitely a little gem at the price.
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Valley of the Moon Cuvée de la Luna 2005 [750ml/12cs] $32.95
 Valley of the Moon Winery is one of the older wine properties in Sonoma, so the heart of this Bordeaux blend is Cabernet from old Sonoma Mountain vines. Always ready to drink upon release, this wine may surprise you with its ability to age. Firm tannins are buffetted by dark, juicy Cabernet fruit. There is a streak of cocoa or milk chocolate in this wine that I always adore. An absolute steal.
"This is the winery's Bordeaux blend, and it's almost always a quite good and interesting wine. They've held the price steady for many years while maintaining if not increasing quality, to their credit. The 2005 is dry, full-bodied and fairly tannic, with a good balance of fruit, herb and earth flavours. Ready to drink now."
90 points, Wine Enthusiast, December 2008
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Belle Glos "Meiomi" Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2007
[750ml/12cs] ETA early April, estimated $32.00
 "Utilizing some sublime Sonoma Coast vineyard sources, Meiomi (rhymes with Naomi) takes flight as the rarest of birds...affordable Pinot that tastes like Pinot! Round, approachable Bing cherry and strawberry flavours are perfectly integrated with a hint of oak spice on the palate. This is not meant to be something you sock away for a decade. It's the one you enjoy while its big brothers are coming together in the cellar. Belle Glos always delivers."
Bounty Hunter Wines, Napa, CA
The event at lago restaurant on March 30th will be a great opportunity to taste the 2007s from Belle Glos, the project of Caymus founder and winemaker Chuck Wagner and son and winemaker Joseph (Joey) Wagner. Joey's Pinot Noirs have really elevated him into the company of California's best young wine makers, and we have a strong following for this wine as well as the single vineyard wines, which have been well received by restaurants all over Ontario.
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Frog's Leap Zinfandel Napa Valley 2006 [750ml/12cs] $42.95
 Last month at Frog's Leap Winery I had a chance to drink one of their Zins from the early 90's, and was it a lesson in balance and longevity. Pure red fruit, complex spices and an earthiness, all held by a latticework of softened acidity.
Frog's Leap has been a leader in organic farming in Napa for decades, and their wines are all the better for it. They don't advertise themselves as organic, because they don't want to be lumped into a category or market sector. They simply believe that what goes into the vines, ends up in the wines.
Their soils are deep and dark, alive with beneficial organisms and loaded with organic matter from years of composting and plowing, providing a complete supply of nutrients and water for the vines. Benefiting this top-quality fruit, a non-interventionist style of winemaking produces healthy, balanced wines that are alive and delicious, and clearly have the ability to drink and age well.
"John Williams dry farms this organically grown Zin, which contributes to its restrained style and relatively low alcohol (13.5%). It comes off as taut claret; the fresh raspberry flavour takes on a pleasing shape as it wraps around scents of pine, herb and earth. The wine has the kind of transparency that makes room for food. Serve this with grilled quail. "
93 points, Wine & Spirits, June 2008
"This is a back to the future wine. A zinfandel such as this reminds one what Zinfandel used to taste like, which most fits the Zins coming out of the Napa Valley. That is, they are more claret style, elegant, rather than big jelly jars. The Frog's Leap has gorgeous brambly fruit, aided no doubt from blending in petite Sirah and carignane. It's also perfectly balanced."
Gold Medal, Best of Appellation, www.appellationamerica.com
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Kenwood "Yulupa" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 [750ml/12case] $20.40
 The Yulupa series from Kenwood Vineyards is one of our top value brands.
This Cab from the 2005 vintage was actually scored higher by Decanter magazine (Jan 09) than Caymus Special Selection 2005. Now, keep in mind that Decanter's tastes still lean away from opulent Napa Cab, and more towards Bordeaux's medium-full, slightly herbaceous style, but it's still worth mentioning.
We're almost sold out of the 2005. The following vintage in Northern California was also very good, 91 points from Wine Advocate, and since the Yulupa series are all about early drinking and consistency year-to-year, you can bet the 2006 will be a great buy as well.
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Ralph Fowler Mount Benson Shiraz 2006 Limestone Coast
[750ml/12case] $22.95
Mount Benson lies within the Limestone Coast region of South Australia, which is a recently defined viticultural area inclusive of Mt. Benson, Wrattonbully, Coonawarra and Padthaway. The first grapes were planted in
Mt. Benson in 1989 and the area has since rapidly expanded with more than 370
hectares now planted. The region benefits from the pervasive influence
of the Limestone Coast - red sandy loam soils over a free draining
limestone base, and weather moderated by the Great Southern Ocean.
The wine is rich and powerful and shows the ripe berry fruits, warm
earthy characters and the cedar, licorice and fruit cake characters of
the variety and the Fowler cellar style. The Fowlers consider this to
be the best vintage they have produced so far and is of limited
quantity. Optimal cellaring is in the region of 5 to 7 years which will
allow the wine to develop bouquet and soften on the palate although the
wine can be enjoyed now for its rich fruit flavour.
"Quite developed; strong spice and mocha overtones to predominantly black fruits, with some sweeter red notes; good balance."
89 points, James Halliday, Dec 2007
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Neagles Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Clare Valley [750ml/12cs] $24.95
 We've had wonderful success this year introducing Neagles Rock, our most recent Australian winery. The Cab/Shiraz "Mr. Duncan" has been really selling well. The quality of both are outstanding. These aren't jammy fruitsoups, they're firm, dark, herbal, ripe young wines, with the stuffing to age or drink young with black 'n' blue ribeyes or old, old cheddar.
This winery has been awarded by 4 stars Australia's foremost wine writer James Halliday, five years in a row. Four stars equates to "an outstanding winery capable of producing wines of the highest calibre".
"Clear, deep red-purple; attractive, lively blackcurrant and redcurrant fruits with an echo of mint; fine, supple mouthfeel. Drink 2016."
93 points, James Halliday, August 2008
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Hunter's Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Marlborough [750ml/12case] $21.95
The
annual new Zealand wine fair will take place on May 21st in Toronto,
and Jane Hunter will be joining us to showcase her wines. One of the
first wineries in Marlborough, Hunter's is our 'traditional' Kiwi
Sauvignon Blanc. It's refined, grassy, bright and fruity, with the
zing of cool climate acid to keep it all singing. A lovely 'au natural'
sipper, it pairs very well with all kinds of dishes, especially roasted
poultry and tuna or mackerel ceviche.
"A
great value in Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Hunter's 2007 marries ripe
nectarine aromas and flavours with just enough acidity and a touch of
grassiness to retain focus and varietal character. The lack of overt
herbal notes makes it easy to pair with food, or drink on its own."
89 points, Wine Enthusiast, Sept 2008
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Half Bottles (375ml),
all are packed 12 per case
As I wrote in my last newsletter, half-bottles are a great way to enjoy nice wines, and not be concerned about drinking too much, or worse, having wine left over that becomes dull after a night in the fridge. Here's a few nice choices.
Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Blanc 2007 $20.95
"....An invigorating, beautiful Sancerre that continues the unparalleled success of this great organic/biodynamic domaine!"
North Berkeley Wine Imports, Berkeley, CA
Château de Maligny Chablis "Carré de César" 2007 $14.65
"....a consistently fine Chablis with the characteristic mineral nuances
that the terroir gives it, but with an unusual, but welcome succulent
fruitiness"
Chateau Montelena Napa Valley Chardonnay 2006 $28.95
"....the 2006 just seems to be slightly more evolved and forward than the 2005, but both, I am sure, will still be humming along 10 or more years from now......"
91 pts, Wine Advocate, Dec 2007
Ridge "Geyserville" 2006 $27.25
92 Wine & Spirits, 91 Int'l Wine Cellar, 90+ Conn. Guide Cali Wines, 90 Wine Spectator
Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge
"Cuvée du Baron" 2006 $21.95
"Rich but restrained, with graphite, game, hot stone, tobacco and plum sauce notes allied to a surprisingly grippy frame that extends through the lengthy finish. best from 2009 to 2023."
91 pts, Wine Spectator, Oct 2008
Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2005 $28.40
"... I loved it for its superb balance and harmony...."
90 pts, Wine Advocate, Oct 2008 - full review above
Chante Perdrix Châteauneuf du Pape 2006 $22.45
"......Smoky cherry and grilled meat aromas verge on brooding. Deep, serious and impressively concentrated, offering weighty cherry and cassis flavors and finishing with good chewy grip...."
89-92 pts, Int'l Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 2008
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Chris McLean
phone: 416 961 2294 x 29
e-mail: c.mclean@rogcowines.com
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