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Rogers & Company Newsletter
February 2009
Greetings!

I hope your 2009 is off to a nice start.  It seems like mother nature is finally letting up on us, and I find myself more energized than I have in a long time. 

Last week our sales team had the enviable task of travelling throughout Monterey, Santa Cruz, Napa and Sonoma, tasting and eating and learning about our wineries from the soils to the glass. 
 
What an eye-opening experience!  I highly recommend it.  Seeing in person what we've only read in books is the best to really understand the wine.  When you can feel the soil and hear the mountain winds, the wines just seem to "make sense".

So, today I'm writing about some of the wines we experienced on our trip and also about our half-bottles, most of which are available in full-size (750ml).  The half-bottle provides a perfect size for two people over a meal.  I often find I drink more than I wanted to when my fianc
ée and I sit down to dinner with a nice bottle.  Although I love drinking wine, I hardly need to question my sobriety on a Tuesday.

Our website is always updated with the newest wines and wineries, scores, reviews and info, as well our newest price list is always available by clicking the link on the home page.  Rogers & Company.

Prices are per bottle, exclusive of tax. 

Have a safe and relaxing long weekend.

All the best,
Chris.
Domaine Henry Pellé Sancerre 'La Croix au Garde' 2007
[375ml/12cs]  $17.95

Pelle new label "This is the Ingrid Bergman of Sancerres - ravishing, polished and effortlessly elegant. In great years, besides having perfect tension between acidity and fruit, the wine has a unique kind of purity and clarity, with absolutely vivid smokey/minerally flavours. Pellé himself was considered one of the masters of the Sauvignon Blanc grape, and now his family carries on, making wines that are highly admired. The Pellé estate is perhaps best known for its extraordinary, rich, dramatic Menetou-Salon, which is also where the estate is located."
Karen McNeil, The Wine Bible

Also available in full bottles,  [750ml/12cs]   $30.95
Domaine Luquet Pouilly-Fuissé 2006 [375ml/12cs]   $18.75

Pouilly FuisseIn Sotheby's World Wine Encyclopedia, Tom Stevenson claims the Mâconnais provides... "easily the best-value pure chardonnay wine in the world. The climate and ambience of the region differ from the Côte d'Or, the vineyards benefit from more sun, less rain, and little risk of frost."

 This Pouilly-Fuissé is a generous and rich wine, with an emerald-gold colour. The alkaline limestone soils of the Mâconnais favours harmonious development of the Chardonnay bouquet, with a hint of hazelnuts,toasted almonds and exotic fruit. The vineyards, which average 50 years of age, are situated in an amphitheatre which gives them extra warmth and sunlight. This is a full blown, opulent Burgundian Chardonnay, that will appeal to the New-World Chardonnay lover as well. This wine will age well for 6 years.

Also available in full bottles,  [750ml/12cs]   $31.95

Kenwood Sonoma County Chardonnay 2007 [375ml/12cs]   $14.00

Kenwood Sonoma Chardonnay The Russian River Valley and Sonoma Valley provide the grapes for this bright and tropical Chardonnay.  Depending on the vineyard source of each grape lot, different barrel programs are used, and this final blend is built to show complexity.  Tropical fruits like banana and pineapple are intertwined with crisp apple and pear, there is a noticeable hint of French oak toastiness and spice, and fresh acidity carries all the flavours harmoniously.

I could generalize and say this pairs well with chichen, pork or veal, but that's too easy.  The subtlety of this wine allows it to pair with almost any dish, short of winter braises and red meats.  I'd recommend soft cheeses, double or triple cream; escargot in garlic and butter en croute; or roasted European Sea bass with fresh herbs and citrus.

"Gold hue.  Fresh-sliced pineapple and lemon drop scents.  Rich butterscotch and pineapple flavours, with a tart, youthful edge.  Soft, balanced, fruit-driven finish."
88 points, The Wine News, Oct 2008

Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2003 [375ml/12cs]    $33.60

BrunelloI recently read a great article on Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar online called "Some 2003 Brunellos That Transcended the Vintage."  I quote:

"Western Europe's brutally hot summer of 2003 often had the effect of burning the skins of the sangiovese grapes in Montalcino before the fruit ripened thoroughly, resulting in wines with a roasted character or dry-edged tannins.
Many other wines retain adequate freshness but show an unusually sweet and sometimes liqueur-like fruit character and atypical fleshiness that will give them considerable early appeal.
For those who love scented, slow-to-evolve Brunellos with high-pitched fruit and floral aromas, medium body and a more subtle sweetness, here are some classically styled 2003s that almost magically sidestepped the excesses of the vintage."

 
He goes on to list the 2003 Altesino, and six others, none of which are currently available in Ontario, according to my research.  So if you love Brunello, but were weary of the vintage, you may now be interested in this well-priced offering.

"Good full, bright red. Vibrant if idiosyncratic nose offers exotic peach and blood orange suggestions as well as a piquant mineral character. Sweet, intense and cleanly made, with a distinctly penetrating, high-pitched quality to the juicy flavours of red fruits, orange peel and peach. Conveys a strong impression of cooler terroir."
90 points, International Wine Cellar, July/August 2008

Also available in full bottles,  [750ml/12cs]   $65.95
Château Fortia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Cuvée du Baron 2006 [375ml/12cs]    $21.95

Chateau Fortia CndP Château Fortia holds an important place in the history of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It was here that Baron Le Roy de Boiseaumarie was instrumental in the establishment of the Appellation Contrôlée system. Since Bruno Le Roy took over in 1994 and engaged the well know Cornas oenologist Jean-Luc Colombo as winemaker, Château Fortia is back on form. This is one of the few Châteauneuf-du-Papes that contains a high proportion of syrah, usually 40%, allowing these wines a longer than average life.

"Rich but restrained, with graphite, game, hot stone, tobacco and plum sauce notes allied to a surprisingly grippy frame that extends through the lengthy finish.  Best from 2009 to 2023.  3,915 cases made."
91 points, Wine Spectator, October 2008

Also available in full bottles,  [750ml/12cs]   $41.95
Mer Soleil "Silver" Chardonnay 2006  [375ml/12cs]   $19.95

Mer Silver The Santa Lucia Highlands provides optimal conditions for growing beautiful chardonnay; lots of sunlight, limestone-rich solis, very little rain, gusty winds off the Pacific and warm days followed by bone-chilling evenings. 
 
Many of California's premier chardonnay and pinot noir producers make their homes here, and Mer Soleil leads the charge.  The young Charlie Wagner,  son of Caymus' Chuck Wagner is making briliant wines, both barrel aged and this, the Silver, matured in stainless steel and concrete.

"This is a stunning wine, showing the laserlike purity and bright acids that this northwestern part of the Highlands coaxes from the grapes.  The brilliantly illuminated flavours range from limes to kiwis to green aples, peaches and guavas.  The finish is dry, but with ahoneyed unctuousness that could be a touch of botrytis."
92 points, Wine Enthusiast, December 2007


Also available in full bottles,  2007 [750ml/12cs]   ETA March 2009, est'd $33.95
Shafer Napa Valley Merlot 2006 [375ml/12cs]   $37.05

Shafer merlot"One of Napa's most prominent and respected wineries, Shafer is a poster boy for remarkable and consistent quality across the board. All of this is the work of the brilliant father and son team of John and Doug Shafer as well as their long-term winemaker and vineyard manager, Elias Fernandez. With over 200-plus acres of estate holdings, and 55 surrounding their winery in Stags Leap, this is a winery that never seems to disappoint."
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, December 2007


The 2006 vintage brought long, sunny dry days and cool to chilly evenings to the southern Napa Valley. Temperatures rose slowly and evenly throughout the season, producing classic conditions for the development of rich, ripe Merlot.

The 2005 Merlot was named as "Top Merlot in the U.S." for the fourth time in five years by Food & Wine magazine.

"The dark ruby/purple-coloured 2006 Merlot (84% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc) exhibits fleshy, red and black currant, bay leaf, and underbrush characteristics. Medium-bodied with sweet tannin, it should drink nicely for a decade." 

89 points, Robert Parker, December, 2008

Also available in full bottles,  [750ml/12cs]   $69.95
Kenwood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon 2005  [375ml/12cs]   $16.65

Ken Sonoma Cab This wine is simply a sensational steal.  Every vintage regardless of conditions this wine overdelivers.  Luckily, 2005 was a great vintage, as will be 2006.  The vineyards are mostly on Sonoma Mountain, an appellation that comes with a much higher price tag, and the vineyards are well into their forth and fifth decades.

This is soft, yet structured.  A bull's eye for varietal character, and in 750ml format will age very gracefully for up to a decade.  Put some down and see for yourself.

"A superb Sonoma offering.  Aromas of coconut, black cherry, vanilla pod and cedar lead into flavours rich with chocolate, cherry, mocha and cedar."

91 points, Gordon Stimmel, Toronto Star, August 16, 2008

Also available in full bottles,  [750ml/12cs]  $24.20 or at Vintages $22.95 #990440
California Treasures  750ml format
Flowers "Andreen Gale" Chardonnay 2005  [750ml/12cs]  $89.95

Flowers Chardonnay One mile from the Pacific above the fog line between 1,100 and 1,800 feet sits the mostelite collection of vineyards in Sonoma County; Hirsch, Marcassin, Bohan, Charles, Helenthal, Nobles, Blue Slide, Failla, and Flowers. 

Widely regarded for the wines from Camp Meeting Ridge, the main vineyard, Flowers has gained incomparable respect from critics and sommeliers across the United States.  To enjoy their wines with dinner, make reservations at Charlie Trotter's, Nobu, The Modern NYC or Gary Danko.

The Chardonnay for this bottling comes from Camp Meeting Ridge with a small portion from Sonoma Coast vineyards within the region.

"Medium gold. Deep, smoky aromas evoke poached pear, yellow apple and cling peach, with a zesty mineral overlay adding vibrancy. Ripe, round and fleshy, with deep orchard fruit flavours and refreshing spiciness. Finishes with firm minerality and very good lift. Possesses plenty of weight and chewy texture but is energetic enough not to be tiring. This really clings to the palate."

90 points, International Wine Cellar, May/June 2008

 
Peay Vineyards Pinot Noir "Pomarium" Sonoma Coast 2006
[750ml/12cs]   $78.95

Pomarium Andy Peay, Nick Peay and Vanessa Wong are doing amazing things.  A very small, very remote family winery has become the darling of Pinot-philes in California.
Currently their wines, a chardonnay, two pinot noir and two syrah are filling the pages of wine magazines and wine lists across the U.S., including Per Se, The Modern NYC, Cru, Gotham Bar & Grill, Gramercy Tavern, and The French Laundry, where this particular wine is the singled out from all other American Pinot Noirs and "Highly Recommended" (page 40). 

"Medium red. Bright red berry, rose and baking spice scents are deepened by mocha and spicecake. Sappy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors are braced by zesty minerality and become sweeter with air. A late jolt of blood orange adds energy and cut to the long, juicy finish of this essentially silky wine."
92 points, International Wine Cellar, May/June 2008

Frog's Leap "Rutherford" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 [750ml/6cs]   $113.95

Rutherford This wine is simply unadulterated Rutherford terroir in liquid form.  Organic vineyard management - no herbicides, no pesticides, no fungicides are used in any way during the lifetime of these vines.  Last years canes become this year's mulch.  What more pure expression of place could one ask for?

Last week I had the pleasure of drinking the 1996 Rutherford beside a 1996 Chateau Leoville Las Cases (98 pts Parker), cellared side-by-side and hand-to-heart the much heralded Second growth couldn't have been more underwhelming.  No comparison.  The fruit had shut down, the mid-palate dropped out, the edges became coarse.  The Rutherford was dark, rich, spicy and dusty, and clearly was still just a baby.

I also had the pleasure of drinking some Frog's Leap Merlot 1986 and Zinfandel 1994 which were still vibrant, youthful and complex.  I have to agree with the review below, but I think they've underrated the ageability.  I'd suggest 20 years, easily.

"A gorgeous Cab, lush, soft, delicious.  Shows a New World cult winemaking sensibility, with super-ripe fruit and melted tannins framing blackberry and cherry pie, cassis, dark chocolate, anise and cedar flavours.  Should age for the next ten years."

93 points, Wine Enthusiast, March 2009

 
Cain Five 2004  [750ml/6cs]   $112.50

Cain Five High atop Spring Mountain, Cain's vineyards form a rugged, south facing amphitheatre, bordered on the west by Sonoma County and the east by the valley floor.  The elevation, well-drained mountain soils and the very cool San Pablo Bay breezes provide optimum growing conditions for tiny, intense berries producing long-lived Cabernet.

The 2004, a magnificent vintage in Napa Valley, is not yet reviewed by the press, but the 2003, a very warm and
by conventional standards a less regarded vintage received the following review:

"A classic Bordeaux blend crafted from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Pretty nose of subtle cassis. Concentrated palate coated with rich mountain fruit, including black cherry and bramble berry, pure cassis, tobacco and firm tannins. Cellaring will pay dividends; this tightly wound beauty will open up in 10 to 15 years; it would be a shame to drink it before then."

95 points, The Wine News, June/July 2007

 
Cain Five is well represented by the finest restaurant wine programs in the world, and to quote from Charlie Trotter's Chicago's website : "Yet there still remained the desire to create one's own identity by designating proprietary names such as Cain Five, Dominus, Opus One, Rubicon, etc..... These meritage or proprietary Bordeaux varietal blends are elegant and offer more range than straight Cabernet wines."
Kenwood "Jack London Vineyard" Cabernet Sauvignon 2005  [750ml/12cs]  $39.95

Jack London I had the pleasure last week of drinking a 1994 Jack London in the namesake vineyard, where steep volcanic hillsides give life to a 800 year old California Live Oak that shelters Jack's homestead, and  40 year old gnarled, twisty, dry farmed Cabernet vines.  What an experience and what a wine! 
 
The 300 meter deep volcanic soils produce a wine always dappled with herbal scents, almost a mintiness, due to the iron and quartz in the soil.  When young this wine is dark and deep, but with age, it's layers really start to stratify.  The red fruit punches through, the herbal scents soften and the acids keep everything taut.  Truely, a cellar-worthy bottle.  Each time I taste one from the 1990's, I'm stunned by the complexity.

"Dense garnet rim.  Powerful scents of plum, black cherry and thistle.  Rich flavours of cherry pie, brown sugar and blackberry.  Full, refined tannins and lingering impressions of blackberry and brown sugar in the close."
91 points, The Wine News, Oct 2008

Chris McLean
phone: 416 961 2294 x 29
c.mclean@rogcowines.com

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