Greetings!
Sangiovese: Italy's greatest grape and the soul of some of the greatest wines ever made.
What appeals most to me about this grape, beyond its versatility with food and the myriad of styles it is capable of becoming, is how no other country in the world has really succeeded in making Sangiovese its own. Simply put, the great wines of Chianti, Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Morellino di Scansano are like no other.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc seem to find their feet wherever they are planted and many new world incarnations of these wines can trip up the most experienced of palates into thinking you are enjoying an old world classic. Yet, nobody has been able to create the barest facsimile of Brunello, Vino Nobile or Chianti. Can it be done?
For sure, there are small pockets of high quality Sangiovese production in Napa, Sonoma and even in Australia's Clare Valley, but Sangiovese is really Italy's baby and with very few exceptions that baby that doesn't like to stray far from home.
Chianti and Italian wine in general, got a bad rep in the 1970s because wineries were trying to make as much wine as possible from as little raw material as possible. It's the old-world culinary theory of, "Don't let anything go to waste." Legalizing the addition of the thin, machine-harvested white Trebbiano Toscano to the Chianti blend resulted in further derision of the wines.
Thankfully, realizing the true potential of Sangiovese, a handful of now famous Tuscans stepped up and helped rewrite the rule book for Chianti and Vino Nobile. With more modern DOC and DOCG laws, and the massive research project "Chianti 2000", Sangiovese is rightfully back on wine collector's radar, and shines as one of the world's greatest grapes.
Tuscany, where the majority of collectable Sangiovese wines originates, has shown wonderful vintage consistency over the last decade with only 2002 receiving a black mark on its report card. Robert Parker's Wine Advocate's rates the recent vintages very favourably: 2006 - 93 points, 2005 - 92 points, 2004 - 96 points and 2003 - 90 points.
I hope you enjoy this trip through the many Sangioveses that Rogers & Company offers. Unfortunately, availability of some wines is quite limited, so I am happy to take back orders, but can not promise fulfilment. Prices are per bottle, exclusive of taxes.
|
|
Altesino Rosso di Toscana 2006 [750ml/12cs] $20.50, estimated price, ETA April 2008
This continues to be one of our most popular wines. Its attractive price and Brunello heritage has always made us refer to this wine as a "Baby Brunello". Sophisticated with plenty of morello cherry fruit intermingled with saddle leather and a dusting of spice. A dash of Cabernet Sauvignon adds backbone.
This will be featured as a Vintages "Wine of the Month" in June.
|
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2003 [750ml/6cs] $61.00 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2003 [375ml/12cs] $32.40 Limited availability.
Sangiovese grown on the hillside slopes outside of Montalcino is know as Brunello. It produces a large, curvaceous bunch of grapes with very dark berries. Altesino is widely considered to be Italy's finest producer of Brunello di Montalcino and one of the first producers in Montalcino to make a more modern style of Brunello.
The 2003 vintage was warmer than normal so many of the resulting wines were unusually fat. However, careful vineyard management at Altesino allowed them to still produce an authentic, pure expression of the Sangiovese grape. Their 2003 is elegant and approachable now yet possesses the optimal balance of rich fruit, acidity and tannin that will reward mid-term cellaring.
|
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino "Montosoli" 2003 [750ml/6cs] $98.00, estimated price, ETA April 2008 Limited Availability
To quote the Wine Spectator article "The Cream of the Crop" (July 31, 2007), "Altesino
is one of the most consistent Brunello producers going. Its white label
"normale" is almost always an outstanding bottle and drinks very well
young. However, Altesino's single-vineyard Brunello, Montosoli, is the
legend-maker for the estate. Located on the north side of Montalcino,
the slightly more than 11-acre Montosoli is one of the most beautiful
hillside vineyards in Italy, with near-perfect exposure to the sun
ensuring optimum fruit ripeness. Made only in top vintages, it is a
racy, powerfully structured red that needs years of bottle age to
fulfill its potential. Altesino's Brunello Riserva can also be
top-notch."
|
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2005 [750ml/12cs]
$32.70, estimated price, ETA May 2008 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 [375ml/12cs]
$17.35
Sangiovese grown near the town of Montepulciano is known as Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. When grown here the grape is known as Prugnolo Gentile, a "sibling" to the Sangiovese grown in Chianti. Unfortunately, it is often confused with Montepulciano d'Abruzzo; a rustic, generally inexpensive, machine harvested red the grows on the plains of Abruzzi.
Avignonesi has some of the oldest cellars in Italy, and made not only their own fame with Vino Nobile but are credited with revitalizing the DOC. After more than 25 years, Avignonesi's version continues is considered a benchmark. The 2003 was a Wine Spectator top 100 selection and the 2004 was loved by both European and American critics alike. The 2005 is a recent release and early indications are that it will be well-received by the press.
|
Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva "Grandi Annate" 2004 [750ml/6cs] $90.00, estimated price, ETA Summer 2008 Limited Availability
As the name implies, this wine is only made in great vintages. It exemplifies Vino Nobile di Montepulciano at its most elegant. The rich texture of the Prugnolo Gentile is complimented by 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, which gives this wine added mid-palate weight and complexity.
The Riserva designation requires that this wine ages 24 months in barrel and 24 months in bottle before release for sale. This extra maturation allows for greater secondary and tertiary aroma and flavour development, that unfold as coffee, chocolate and bramble behind the primary, concentrated cherry fruit that is the hallmark of this wine.
Although no reviews exist at this time, the 2003 received 93 points from Wine Spectator. I believe that in such a vintage as 2004, we should see this score met or eclipsed.
Tasted recently at Vin Italy, Rogers & Co. Director Harris Davidson awards it 94 points.
|
Falchini Chianti Colli Senesi "Titolato Colombaia" 2006 [750ml/12cs] $16.95
Due to the world class quality of his wines, Riccardo Falchini is one of Tuscanys most respected winemakers. Under Riccardo's ownership, the estate produces the region's finest Vernaccia di San Gimignano and Chianti Colli Senesi and award winning Sangiovese and Cabernet "Super Tuscans".
The wines of Colli Senesi or "Sienese Hills" has brighter acidity and more floral character than its Classico cousins, due in part to the elevation of the vineyards and day-to-night temperature changes. Falchini planted his first vineyard in 1968 and today boasts the finest and most modern equipment and techniques in the area. He is at the acknowledged forefront of technological experience and experimentation. His vineyards are composed of some of the most favorable soil conditions in the area.
Riccardo's consulting enologist and good friend is Giacomo Tachis, creator of Tignanello, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Solaia, and other great Italian wines. Falchini is a member of the "Titolati" (the word means "The Selected"), an association of enlightened producers that reinforce the highest of standards.
|
|
Falchini "Paretaio" IGT 2006 [750ml/6cs] $30.00, estimated price, ETA April 2008
This is classic Sangiovese - animal, leather, tobacco on the nose with elegant mouthfilling cherry fruit through the palate. A late note of licorice continues through the finish. Merlot adds a touch more roundness to the palate and deepens the cherry core. This is a classy yet subtle wine, that will appeal to those who enjoy quality Chianti and Vino Nobile.
Given the strength of the 2004 vintage I expect this wine to eclipse the 89 points awarded by Parker for the 2003.
|
Fontodi Chianti Classico 2005 [750ml/12cs] $26.90
Fontodi's vineyards are located in the heart of Chianti Classico in a valley that opens to the south and is known regionally as the Conca d'Oro. The splendid, full southern exposure of its vineyards produces some of the region's richest fruit. Already famous at the beginning of this century, this estate has been the property of the Manetti family since 1968. Since the winery chose not to produce their flagship Chianti "Vigna del Sorbo" for 2005, their Chianti Classico received an extra boost of high quality fruit.
"Bright ruby. Sexy, clean aromas of floral red berries and red cherry. Conveys an almost saline sense of extract on the soft, lush, sweet palate, with plenty of acidity keeping it lively and interesting. Only moderately intense in the mid-palate, but this is ready to drink and very attractive." 88 points, Stephen Tanzer, July August 2007
|
Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva "Vigna del Sorbo" 2004 [750ml/6cs] $63.75
Italian Wine Merchants, the famous store in New York City describes this wine beautifully: "A dense ruby colour, Chianti's quintessential blend of elegance and power. Rich and concentrated, with smells of saddle leather, cherries, spice box and smoke. The depth on the palate resembles fruit chutney with splashes of balsamic vinegar."
Given the strength of the 2004 vintage I expect this wine to eclipse the 93 points awarded by Parker for the 2003.
|
Fontodi Flaccianello delle Pieve 2005 [750ml/6cs] $80.00 estimated price, ETA June/July 2008 Limited availability.
"Flatch" as its known by its loyal followers is best summed up by Karen McNeil (who now writes for Robert Parker) in The Wine Bible: "Flaccianello della Pieve, Fontodi's Super-Tuscan, is named for the Christian cross in the nearby village of Pieve. In great vintages this is the sort of wine you can drink once and remember forever. It's often one of the more exotic Sangioveses made - syrupy in texture, tooth-stainingly rich, exceptionally complex, and dappled with uncommon flavours such as ginger, black licorice, persimmon and grapefruit. Most impressive of all is the way the wine explodes with sappy juiciness."
The last 3 vintages have all received rating from Parker and Tanzer in the nineties, a trend I expect to see continue. The 2004 was a Wine Spectator "Top 100".
|
Volpaia Chianti Classico 2005 [750ml/12cs] $24.90
Castello di Volpaia is the highest estate in Chianti Classico. The well exposed, high-altitude vineyards have a growing season that is as much as two weeks longer than those of others, that creates richer phenological ripeness and brighter acids. Owner, Giovannella Stianti, has invested heavily in the winery in recent years and under the guidance of oenologist Maurizio Castelli, the Volpaia wines are once again amongst the best in the Chianti Classico zone.
A Chianti for those who enjoy the more traditional Chiantis with brighter acids.
"Good clean aromas and flavours of crushed currant and berry against a background of fresh oak. Medium-bodied, with finew tannins and a tasty finish of fruit and oak. Best after 2008." 87 points, Wine Spectator October 2007
|
Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 [750ml/12cs] $35.85
Fruit for this wine comes from vines growing on the highest parts of Castello di Volpaia's vineyards. The wine is aged in wood for 2 years prior to release.
"Compressed into espresso scents and iron-hard tannins, this wine needs a day of air to show itself. The extract evolves into a rich, sweet cherry flavour, the tannins grow more classical, a peppery cares. built to age for ten years or more, this requires hours in a decanter if you open it now. Grilled sausages pick up on the wine's complex tannin and bring out it's compelling spice." 93 points, Wine & Spirits October 2007
|
And finally, we focus on California and the result of the pioneering spirit of Italian immigrants who brought precious cuttings of their beloved Sangiovese to the New World.
Bacio Divino Cellars "Bacio Divino" 2005 [750ml/6cs] $90.00 estimated price, ETA May 2008
Given the introduction, you will be surprised to learn that owner/winemaker Claus Janzen is a German born Canadian who fell in love with the Napa Valley and then searched for local growers who hadn't replanted their Sangiovese vineyards with a more cash rewarding variety. This "Cult wine" burst on the scene with its first vintage - the 1993 - Robert Parker rated it 94 points and the rest, as they say, is history. Since then it's earned a reputation as one of Napa's most interesting wines, due in no small part to the 20% or so of Sangiovese, with lesser amounts of Merlot and Petite Sirah that complient the dominant Cabernet Sauvignon.
The Cabernet Sauvignon is sourced from 7 vineyards including from the choicest blocks of Andy Beckstoffer's "To-Kalon" vineyard in Oakville and the equally famous 'Georges Latour III Vineyard' in Rutherford. Bacio Divino is the only wine permitted to reference To-Kalon on its label without being required to be a "vineyard designate". Other notable wines that purchase fruit from this block cost more than double and include Schrader, Tor Kenward, Paul Hobbs, Macauley, MX, and Carter. The Sangiovese comes from a high elevation vineyard in Atlas Peak, and a hillside vineyard in the heart of the Oakville appellation. The Sangiovese's character shines through the blend each and every vintage.
"Janzen's flagship offering, the 2005 Bacio Divino Proprietary Red Wine, is a proprietary blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Sangiovese, 17% Merlot, and the rest Petite Sirah. It boasts a deep ruby/purple hue in addition to aromas of black raspberries, black currants, licorice, incense, and background oak. Sexy, opulent, fleshy, full-bodied, and loaded with character, it can be enjoyed over the next 5-7 years. " 92 points, Robert Parker December 2007
|
Bacio Divino Cellars "Pazzo" 2005 [750ml/12cs] $40.00, estimated price, ETA April 2008
"Pazzo" which means "Crazy" in Italian was born in 1998. It was conceived to be a more bistro style wine and the converse of Bacio Divino. With this wine, Sangiovese takes centre stage and Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Syrah, Syrah and even Viognier are the supporting cast. a new blend from Bacio Divino Cellars, made to be the opposite blend of the flagship wine. It wins rave reviews every year and is currently one of our 'hottest' wines.
In December 2006, Robert Parker remarked that it is "one of those wines you wish every bistro and restaurant offered".
For the 2005 he writes: "A gorgeously hedonistic, flavourful blend of 73% Sangiovese and the rest small amounts of Petit Sirah, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and even a touch of the white varietal, Viognier. A fragrant perfume of sweet roasted herbs, kirsch, black currant, and pepper jumps from the glass of this supple textured fleshy wine. The ideal bistro-styled red, it will be fun to drink over the next 2-3 years." 91 points, Robert Parker, December 2007
|
Valley of the Moon Sangiovese 2005 Sonoma County [750ml/12cs] $23.95
Limited availability.
This property has true Italian heritage having previously been in the Pagani family. This is likely why the Sangiovese was never replanted to other vines that would command higher prices. It is important that a few wineries are still prepared to take the road less travelled.
"This Cal-Ital wine shows the dryness and acidity of a good Chianti, with the sunshiney fruit of California. Cherries, red and black, mingle with menthol, vanilla, anise and pepper to make for a savoury, complicated young wine." 90 points Editor's Choice, Wine Enthusiast March 2008
|
|