Palisade Crest Sierra Nevada

 California's Other 14ners Part 1 by JB
 Every mountain is unique with its own beauty, challenges and adventures.  For many people who start into mountaineering they are drawn to a particular peak.  Every mountain climber has his or her siren-song drawing them closer.   In California the two most popular of these are Mt Whitney, the highest summit in the lower 48, the second highest of the Cascade volcanoes Mt. Shasta.
 This year thousands of first time mountaineers will be drawn to grand heights of Mt. Whitney or the majestic purple hued slopes of Mt. Shasta.  These are two epic peaks that have justly garnered reputations as formidable goals in mountaineering.  But once they are climbed what else is out there?  These are only two of California's 15 peaks over a height of 14,000ft and unlike Whitney and Shasta the others offer a great amount of solitude.  

In this, the first part on a series on California's 14ers, we explore the North Palisade Cirque.  Home to perhaps the highest concentration of 14,000 peaks in the country with Thunderbolt(14,003ft), Starlight (14,220ft), North Palisade(14,242ft), Polemonium(14,100ft), and Mt. Sill(14,153ft) sitting in line with about a mile separating their summits.  With so many high peaks in such close proximity this glaciated cirque makes for a haven of classic climbs of a wide variety.  Everything from class 2 scrambles to 3 pitch alpine ice to 5.11 classic trad climbs are all accessible from the same trailhead at Big Pine Creek.

Thunderbolt- at the Northeast end of the cirque Thunderbolt peak makes the lateral boundary for the North Palisades Glacier.  Its shear East Face is broken by bands of loose rock making it an intimidating challenge for any climber.  The Underhill Couloir to the left however offers a 4^th class accent that gives access to the summit ridges of both this mountain and Starlight.  From here, pitchout some easy 5^th class to the top and cross to the top to the summit block.  Most people don't actually attempt the summit block as it is an unprotected 5.8 climb for the leader.

Starlight - can be accessed by the Underhill as well.  A long 3^rd and 4^th class scramble is broken by a couple short sections of easy 5^th.  This ridge will bring you to the infamous "Milk Bottle".  The true summit of this peak; is easier to climb than Thunderbolt but is incredibly exposed.

Thunderbolt "old school"

North Palisade - The tallest and perhaps the most prized summit of the range.  The classic ascent route of the North Palisade is the U-Notch Couloir.  Crossing the Glacier arrive at the base of the widest chute usually marked by a large bergschrund.  Ascend this line of easy to moderate alpine ice climbing to the top of the notch.  From here you can climb two pitches of 5.6 or traverse around on 4^th class terrain to the summit.  From this point you can also climb easy 5^th class to the summit of Polemonium.

Polemonium - For the more spirited ice enthusiast the V-notch is far and away the most classic climb on Polemonium.  Follow this steep WI 3-4 climb to the rock then two pitches of easy rock to the top.   This makes for spectacular climb but by far the least dramatic summit in the range.

Mt. Sill -Standing at the opposing flank of the glacier is the incredible fortress Mt. Sill.  Much like the cirque itself Sill offers a wide range of routes to summit.  The Swiss Arête though is the best in breed.  A 5.7 rock route is closer to a 5.5 with only two, maybe 3, moves of 5.7 on the route.  It starts out feeling like a ridge route and gradually steepens as you get higher.  The first crux comes as you turn a corner over a precipice and ascend a crack system.  The summit separates three basins and giving you one of the best views in all of the Sierras.

   Glacier Season Runs Long. 

For many climbers the most alluring part of the climb is to be able to go into new an untouched pristine places.  They seek the reward of the physical and mental challenges where few others go.  There are perhaps few places on Earth better to find these places than the glaciers of the high peaks.

From the Himalaya to the Andes, the Wind Rivers to Alaska, glaciers can be an interregnal part of climbing and exploring new parts of the world.  Though they offer us unparalleled access to new places they also offer challenges in navigation and safety and should be approached with appropriate level of equipment and knowledge