SpringNewsletter

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SWS Mountain Guides

Spring 2011

The Stuff in this Issue
Renting Hardshells
30th Anniversary T-Shirts
SWS Partners with Millet
Celebrating 30 years
Mt. Shasta Record Snowfall
Filtering Water the Right Way

 Now Renting HardShell Jackets!

 

Millet Jacket

Starting this Spring SWS is now renting hardshell jackets on all Shasta Climbs for as little as $30 for 2-3 days.  We have limited sizes in stock so please make reservations in advance:  mail@swsmtns.com 

 

30th Aniversary T-Shirts 

30th Aniversity pic

To celebrate our 30th anniversary we are offering our T-Shirt for $20. 

SWS Partners with Millet!!!

med millet logo

This spring SWS Mountain Guides is pleased to announce that we have joined in a coorporate partnership with Millet.  Since 1921 Millet has been creating some of the best climbing and mountaineering clothing availble.  From the first ascent of an 8,000m peak in 1950, to the Guides de Chamonix, and now to California, Millet has been worn by some of the best guides in the world. Find out more about Millet here.

SWS Mountain Guides

Ecuador High Altitude Mountaineering Course

 ecuador

Special Price: $2,850.00
Nov. 28- Dec. 11, 2011
Chimborazo Option Available

 

Our 14-day High Altitude Mountaineering course allows for the for the opportunity to learning high altitude mountaineering techniques while experiencing great climbing, high mountain huts, big mountains, cloud forests, Andean villages, and the South American culture. We spend two days exploring Quito, the capital at over 9,200 ft., as we begin the acclimatization process. After a climb through the protected cloud forest preserve of Pasachoa, we head to our first Ecuador Volcano, Cayambe, at 18,997 ft. for a three days of glacier travel and crevasse instruction before attempting the summit.
Book Today!

Call Tim at 888.797.6867

Mt. Shasta
Summer Specials:
2 Day Summit Climbs
$399.00
per person
June 22-23*
June 25-26
June 29-30*

*weekday departure

Call  888.797.6867

Book online:

 THANKS!       For 30 years of Mountain Guiding
 

Tim Keating reaching the Summit after 30 years! 

Reflecting back on 30 years of guiding and climbing in the Mountains makes me feel humble and grateful for the ability to live my dream. Thanks, to all the great clients for choosing to share your adventures with SWS Mountain Guides over the years. Some of you have changed my life, some I have been the catalysts for change in yours. Many have become lifelong friends, a bond formed over many journeys in the mountains together.  Thanks to all my guides, past and present, who I have had the pleasure to know, climb and guide with over the years. The guides are the backbone of SWS with which I have been blessed with some of the best guides in the business. Willing to give everything of themselves to give the best possible experience to others. Finally thanks to my business partners over the years who have build SWS Mountain Guides to what it is today! 30 years in anything, is an accomplishment, especially in this day and age. But to live what you love for 30 years is a gift.  So, THANK -YOU to all my clients, guides, business partners  and my family who have given me the opportunity to work in the mountain for 30 years...... "If you love what you do you never work a day in your life" I don't think I have worked in 30 years!

GREAT CLIMBING CONDITIONS ON MT SHASTA
By David Cressman

ShastaMay11

West Face of Mt. Shasta Memorial Day 2011 

Things are looking really terrific this year for our Spring skiing and Summer climbing seasons at Mt. Shasta this year. We had a great winter here in Mt. Shasta with tons of snow falling from February through March. March was 258% of normal this year for snowfall so you can imagine how much we have!!! The trailhead at Bunny Flats has over 15 feet in the parking lot! The local skiers have begun to really harvest bushels of spring corn on all different aspects on the mountain and the climbing conditions should really start to get good here in the next few weeks. At this point Bunny Flats is the only trailhead that is open. I would suspect that we will not see the North or East sides trailheads opening until around mid to late June with the Northgate trailhead opening up first.
  

Please be aware that we are now in the middle of what I call our "shoulder season" which means that we can have winter or summer conditions on the mountain (I have had 4 inches of snow dump on me on July 4th!!). Storms can come in fast and whiteout conditions can happen any time. The wind, in particular, can be really, really terrible so always check the weather before you go and be prepared with proper gear (ten essentials , 4 season tent, waterproof/windproof outer layers, etc...) and training. Do not climb up into deteriorating weather!!!
 

I always get asked about whether or not to bring snowshoes this time of year. It is a good question and I have no real definitive answer because it really depends on the snow conditions which can change from day to day. I will usually recommend to folks that if they have snowshoes go ahead and bring them up and we will make the decision up here.  In general, for the months of May and early June snowshoes might be useful to get to base camp but useless above base camp.

 

Some great resources to check while planning your trip and right before you leave are:

Climbing conditions at www.shastaavalanche.org 

Weather conditions on the NOAA website, Wilderness Ranger Climbing Advisories on Mt. Shasta and More!

 

Filtering Out the Right Water Systems by jb Steripen with 0.75L Bottle

Almost a decade of guiding and climbing in the Himalaya has turned me into an old bitter skeptical guide when it comes to water filtration.  This is because for almost every year I have spent in those high mountains I have experienced an equal number of "water purification" misadventures.  Nothing- and I mean nothing- ruins a great Himalayan trip faster than almost purified water.  Whether it's enroute in Kathmandu or in the Tea Houses of the approach bad water can have serious consequences.

For a guide in a third world country perhaps the greatest issue we face is that of clean water.  We constantly struggle with how to provide copious amounts of safe clean water to a dozen clients every day affordably and in a manner that minimizes our environmental footprint.   You can buy "mineral water" from teahouses, and road side shops but this can become expensive (up to $4.50 a bottle).  Furthermore, most developing nations still don't have recycling facilities meaning these bottles will just end up as roadside garbage.  We have tried water filters but this can be problematic as they can be bulky and are often clogged by the glacial silt that is all too common in the waters of the Himalaya.  We have even tried the Steripen™ which uses UV light to kill the bacteria and viruses that make you sick.  This has been readily shot down in the past as the first models used AA batteries that were expensive and despite our best efforts would likely end up next to the water bottles.

This year as we prepped for the Himalaya I was handed Steripen's™ new recharging system.  Though it looked new-fangled this simple system consisted of the traditional FDA approved pen that has now been equipped with two CR123 rechargeable batteries, and a carrying case that doubles as a solar recharging system.  In theory, the charging system is supposed to attach to the top of your pack and recharges the batteries as you hike.    For fourteen days this year we traveled the Khumbu with throngs of other trekkers and the system worked almost flawlessly.  The "bug-zapper" or "light saber", as it was named by some of our European counterparts, is just swirled in the water bottle for up to two minutes while "the wand" emits purple UV light killing said germs.   This treatment system coupled with a bandana, to filter out the silt and macro particles, constitutes a pretty effective system.  

I couldn't recommend this single system for more than about five people as the batteries tended to need to be rotated almost daily but it worked well for our application.  For days that we found snowy or overcast the second battery was enough to get us through and in the event that it wasn't the system also comes with a plug that can be used in outlets (though we never had to use it).  The greatest flaw we came across is the pen tends not to work as well in the cold higher altitudes above 14,000ft. The "bug-zapper" tended to cut out mid-use.

This system isn't necessarily the best system for every application but can be the perfect system for the international traveler and backpacker.  As long as the user can remember to keep it in the sun charging and provided the weather isn't too extreme for cold and altitude.  It works in almost any situation that calls for clean water.  I gave it an A-, which isn't bad for an old skeptical guide. 

 

Your SWS Mountain Guides modeling their new

Millet Alpine Down Jackets. 

SWS Mountain Guides  

   210 East Lake St.,

Mt. Shasta, CA. 96067 

  888.797.6867 

mail@swsmtns.com

  www.swsmountainguides.com
   

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