SWS Mountain Guides  "Climbing worldwide since 1981"
 Summer NewsletterMay 2010  
In This Issue
Kili September 2010
Mt. Whitney Departures
REI Whitney Program
Lost in Morocco
Excellent Shasta Climbing
New SWS Guides
Backpacking in Yosemite
Africa in the Fall  
 Kilimanjaro Climb &
Safari Sept 28th 2010


We are putting together an Expedition to Africa for this Fall.  A 7 day climb of Kilimanjaro via the less traveled Rongai Route and down the Machame Route, plus a 6 day Safari to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro  Crater. Includes 14 days on the ground  all inclusive, lodging, meals, transportation, American guides, porters, you buy the beer!
New Confirmed Departure:
September 28, 2010
Cost: $3,995.00
plus airfare to Kilimanjaro International Airport.
Interested: Call Tim at 888.797.6867 or email: tim@swsmtns.com
Join Our Mailing List!
Mt. Whitney Mountaineer's Route
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 Summer Ascents available!

 Mt. Whitney (14,498 ft.) via the mountaineer's route (class 3-4). A guided climb of the highest peak in the lower 48 states. We climb via the mountaineer's route, a classic 2-3 class designed for first time climbers or experienced hikers. Spectacular views and an exceptional route await the participants on this climb.
Confirmed Departures:
 Cost: $725.00 pp
June 25-27 -- FULL
July 9-11 -  3 Spots Open
Aug 14-16 - 3 Spots Open
Sept 4-6 - 2 Spots Open
Custom Groups may be possible call Tim Keating
at 888.797.6867
REI Hosts Climbing Mt. Whitney  14,495 ft.

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Tim Keating of SWS Mountain Guides will be conducting presentations on Climbing Mt. Whitney at several REI.  All shows start at 7pm
Monday June 14
REI  Saratoga, CA.
Tuesday June 15th
 REI Marina, CA (Santa Cruz area)
Wednesday June 16th
REI San Francisco
Thursday June 17th
REI Santa Rosa, CA
Wednesday July 21st
REI Concord, CA.
Thursday July 22nd
REI Mountain View
More info call 888.797.6867

 
Central Plaza, Marrakesh, Morocco, a donkey, motorcycle, car fighting for the right of way!
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 Morocco - Dave's Adventures: Lost in North Africa:

Warning -  what you are about to read was taken directly from David Cressmans emails that he cobbled together last month while on a trekking trip for SWS Mountain Guides in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. We have to warn you though that reading this might make you want to go there as well!!

Ahh the smell of donkey dung, mint tea, motorbike exhaust, and sweat in the morning!!!!! Another day in Marrakesh begins although a little late today. Drank a little too much wine and some aweful Mohitos last night. Interesting restaurant though. Kind of a Mediteranean and Thai theme with a water fountain that was spurting out water and flames. As expected it was way overpriced. Just as I knocked back my second Mohito this black guy comes in dressed all in white and on stilts and of course he is dancing to Michael Jacksons Thriller!!! Whats next I wonder, but of course a Moroccan lady dressed in tights and swinging from some curtains like a monkey! Did I mentions there were monkeys in the central plaza?? Probably not. Their owners were taking them for a walk. Sooo cute. My wife asked me what I have been smoking to have created these wonderful emails?? Just high on life dear!!!!
We are supposedly off on our trek today, but I have no idea when and no way to get in touch with anyone. Guess I will go shopping. When you have no idea where you are going then the lost go shopping I always say!!!
  
Summit of Jbel Toukal, Highest Peak in North Africa, Sahara in the Background
 
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Last night was insane on the central plaza!! The cruise lines must have arrived... ohh wait we are inland. I guess the camel caravans must have gotten in or something, tourist everywhere!!!. My guess is that the Europeans are here for the weekend. Kind of like going to Tijahuana for the weekend in San Diego except there is no one shooting at you here. No belly dancers last night, but some good ole boys jammin away on pots, pans, and cast iron skillets with a banjo thrown in just for kicks. Oh and lots of drums. Did I mention the guys playing their pipes to the cobras?? I sometimes feel like I am in a fairytail until some French guy pushes me out of the way so his cute wife, with jeans that were painted on, can pet the monkey on a chain! Tried to find some dancing bears or midgets jumping through hoops of fire, but no luck. Lots of clowns though!!!! At least the ones who wear those khaki pants that convert into shorts, carry huge cameras, yell a lot, are white, and always look lost.
Well since I have no idea when I will be picked up at my riad ( fancy name for a house converted into a small hostel) I guess I should get going. We will be trekking in the Atlas Mountains for the next 4 to 6 days if all goes well. Should be sumitting Jbel Toukal next Tuesday.
Aye revoir or something like that!!

beacons Mt. Shasta Warning: Excellent climbing Conditions! 
Mother Nature has been good to Mt. Shasta this year. We have 140% of normal snow fall on the ground which should make for some great climbing well into August this year. We could possibly be climbing Avalanche Gulch well into the middle of August if the weather does not heat up too quickly
Two Day Shasta Climbs via Avalanche Gulch Confirmed Departures  Available:  $450.00 pp
June 5-6 - 4 spots open
June 9-10 -4 spots open
June 12-13 - 2 spots open
June 23-24 - 2 spots open
June 26-27 - 5 spots open
July 3-4 (4th of July) - 4 spots open
ADDITIONAL DATES AND CLIMBS click here!
 
Welcome - New SWS Mountain Guides for 2010  
Please welcome our new SWS Mountain Guides for this upcoming climbing season. From left to right: Ian Bondi, Brent Glidden, Casey Harden, Rick Gaukel, Cliff Agocs. Check out their full background Bio on our Guide page Click Here!
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Backpacking in Yosemite for Experience Hikers.... get away from it all, no cell phones, no computers, no traffic,  come join us!
High country exploring along streams, lakes, peaks, and waterfall of the High Sierra. Learn to find the rhythm and enjoyment of multiple days in the backcountry. Designed for backpackers who want to extend their skills beyond the long weekend. We'll focus on the logistics, skills and satisfaction of the longer backpacking adventure, which allows for getting deeper into the wilderness. We will be planning a trip which will get you away from the crowds of the front country and experience what it means to "Walk in the Woods". Experience Yosemite in a completely new way and join us on this extended backpack in the Yosemite Wilderness. Give us a call for this years itineary and join us for 5 days and 4 nights in the Yosemite Backcountry,
August 17th -21st, 2010 --- Cost: $950.00

World's Best Climber Bars
 by James Brown
 
Everyone knows one of the best parts of climbing and mountaineering is the cold beer waiting for you at the end.  Our guides have put together a list of what they think are some of the best climber watering holes in the world.

10)   The West Rib Pub, Talkeetna, AK - A great hangout for climbers coming from and going to Denali.  An important place to keep in mind if you're waiting for weather to clear or just need human contact after a month on the mountain.

9)    Bend Brewing Company, Bend, Oregon - Local's Night on Tuesdays, half price appetizers and $2.50 pints. You can plan out your route on the big pitcures of the Cascades on the wall and still have enough money left over at the end of the night for gas.  But be careful, the Hophead Imperial IPA will surely make you miss your 2 am alpine start.

8)     The Gilded Otter, New Paltz NY - A great little brewery in a fantastic town.  Really you can't go wrong with any trip to New Paltz.   Best mid week when all the "BENNY's" are still down in New York City.

7)     Mongos Bar, La Paz Bolivia - Small quaint bar with good food.  Barry would tell you all about it if he could remember.

6)     The Last Bar, Railay, Th.  -  With towering limestone cliffs Railay Thailand it a sport climber's dream and the last bar is where that dream gets a cheap dinner and drinks.  Tucked away behind the mangroves of Railay's East Bay this bar is a change of pace from all of the higher end tourist spots on the West Bay.  Cheap drinks on a deck sitting out over the water and loads of young climbers from all over the world.  If you can get it try the barracuda curry.

5)     Le Jekyll, Chamonix, Fr - Named the Jekyll and Hyde bar for those of us that speak English this restaurant and pub is a Chamonix classic.  A mixture of European cuisine with an Irish Style pub upstairs.  Just make sure to bring your Black Amex card.

4)     The Mobile Mart, Lee Vinning Ca.  - Ok, so I know "The Mobile" isn't technically a bar but what other gas station in the world has live music, indoor and outdoor seating, great fish tacos, and a trapeze higher wire act.  This place has it all and on a summer evening is one of best places to grab a slice and a beer.  Warning:  watch out for Sea Gulls and high gas prices.

3)     The Goat Tavern, Mt Shasta, Ca. - They don't have Sierra Nevada, but they do have everything else including some great food.  Eat on the deck to do some great people watching on main street Mt Shasta.

2)     Tom and Jerry's Pub, Kathmandu, Np. - In perhaps the most inconspicuous location in the Thamel district this bar would be considered a dive bar almost anywhere else in the world.  The one thing that sets it apart is its history.  As one of the oldest western bars in Nepal this has been a popular gathering spot for Himalayan expeditions for the last 30 years.  Expedition Tee-shirts and flags line the walls of almost every inch of the pub.  If you know where to look you can find autographs of some of the most famous high altitude climbers in recent history.

1)       Dornan's, Moose Wy. - Great beer and even better food would make this a good bar anywhere.  What make it the best is the wrap-around views of the Snake River and Grand Teton National Park.  This is place is an Ansel Adams with an IPA. 

Sierra Ski Safari  -- No Lift Access? No Worries!
 by James Brown

Four Days on an Eastern Sierra Ski Safari:

This past week I had the unique privilege of guiding one of SWS's most exciting trips.  For four days on the Eastern Sierra we hiked, skinned, climbed, and skied some of the best mountains that California has to offer.  With no set objective in mind, other than finding great skiing, we headed down to Mammoth Lakes region to see what the Eastern Sierra's backcountry had to offer.  What we found were big mountains, a little adventure, and miles of soft corn snow.

Day 1: We started early with a short walk in through sage and cactus to a short warm up run on Little Morrison.The early start graced us with cool weather and the chance to hike up through a herd of mule deer and even spotting a black bear on the snow fields below. The rest of the day was spent learning and reviewing the skills necessary to ski the bigger mountains around us. Using ski crampons, whippets, and skins are foreign to most resort skiers but are essential tools of the trade for ski mountaineers.As we traveled up we got the opportunity to put all of these tools to work as we made it to the summit and then blasted down its East flank.

Day 2: After receiving a tip from famous ski mountaineer "Rando Steve" our second day's objective was the Ripper chute of the Dana Plateau.  This steep, trackless chute lies in obscurity from even many of the eastside locals.  Nevertheless, after a couple hours of approach and a short section of easy roped climbing we were ready to drop in.  I went in first between the steep side wall and a small cornice, kicking off sluff and insuring the slope was safe.  A few hop turns later I was in the middle of the main shoot with the rest of the group in tail.  Skiing around the huge "shark's tooth" pillar we opened up onto a large apron that runs across the base of the plateau and underneath the famed Third Pillar of Dana.  Without a doubt Rando Steve's info was correct and a month after the lifts were closed this chute turned into one of the highlights of my 2010 season.

Day 3: We turned our sights almost two hours south to the obscure Onion Valley of Independence, CA.  At one point developers had tried to turn this area into a ski resort and with a trail head at 9,200ft and almost no approach to great backcountry skiing it's easy to see why.  Tired from the day before, it still only took us a couple hours to reach the shoulder of University Peak where we stripped off our skins and headed down.  At 11,300ft the snow stayed firm and the skiing resembled the perfect corduroy that you find at ski resorts around the country.  The skiing was so good I was ready to sprint back up for another run, but decided not to in order to save my energy for the last day's adventure.

Day 4:  The Bloody Couloir, is perhaps the most prominent ski feature south of Mammoth Lakes. The couloir faces almost due north meaning it holds quality snow late into the year.  Its Y- shaped gulley and twin rock islands beckon backcountry skier's from all over the country with its own unique siren song.  The Bloody's clean esthetic line makes it one of the most classic ski lines in all of the State of California.  So after three days of skiing it was our ultimate goal. 

Like any attempt at ski mountaineering, timing the corn cycle is crucial which meant getting there early was imperative.  We started at sunrise from the Sherwin Creek trail head only to find the 4x4 road blocked by one last lingering hold out of snow.  With no way to get around it we strapped our skis on our back and started hiking.  Up through Laurel Lakes we traveled until we reached the snow line when a storm rolled in turning spring back to winter.  First rain and then snow came down upon our group as we crossed over the high bench and turned the corner at the base of the Bloody.  We started our ascent of the couloir from below but high winds and snow made for laborious climbing even with crampons.  With the snow turning to ice and the sounds of the rock fall from above it just wasn't our day.  We stripped down to our ski gear and headed for home.

"I just love to get out and explore the world.  It just so happens that my favorite way to do that is on a pair of skis" - B. Ladd

Even without summiting Bloody we had climbed in four different parts of the Sierras, and skied places that are almost never explored.  We saw an array of wildlife and were witness to the amazing contrasts of the high alpine and desert environments.  Most of all we had pushed ourselves on skis more than ever before.  It just goes to show that the best skiing in world isn't at a resort.

 
SWS Mountain Guides          210 East Lake St. Mt. Shasta, CA.
 www.swsmountainguides.com          Reservations and Information: 888-797-6867