 DORDOGNE DELIGHTS
Guidebooks and internet sites are excellent resources for planning sight-seeing and excursions. But most focus on the well-known sights, museums and cities. We enjoy exploring and are often rewarded with unexpected jewels. Here are some of our favorites in the Dordogne region of southwest France . . .
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The River
Dordogne is named for the river that dominates the region. One of the longest rivers in France, it runs through a fertile valley that is lush and green. The best way to see it is to take a drive along its banks, stopping to enjoy the scenery, centuries-old medieval villages and the views. You'll be on narrow, two-lane winding roads, so relax and take your time. The most accessible views of the river are along the stretch between Tremolat and la Roque-Gageac (just south of Sarlat).
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 The Views
To best appreciate the breadth and beauty of the Dordogne valley, "get high." Villages and monuments perched high above the river offer the most panoramic views. Among them:
● Domme - the view from the promontory of this ancient bastide village is among the most picturesque.
● Beynac - perched on top of rock beds high above the valley, the Château de Beynac offers some of the most amazing views. And the château is well worth a visit.
● Tremolat - established near one of the hair-pin meanders in the river, this charming village boasts a 12th-century Romanesque church. Follow signs out of town to the Cingle de Tremolat for views of the majestic rocks and the large river loop with its stately poplars and stone bridges.
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Limeuil
Plan a stop at this delightful walled village (east of Tremolat) at the confluence of the Dordogne and Vézère rivers. Bridges set at right angles spanning each river mark the confluence and make this another postcard-perfect moment. Stroll the cobblestone streets and take in the views from the ruins of the château. If you enjoy river swimming, this is a local favorite. You can also rent canoes. Without a doubt our favorite pastime here is watching the scene from a table at the riverside café, where drinks and light meals are served.
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 Font-de-Gaume
In Dordogne, prehistoric caves are the main attraction and rightly so. This is one of the unique places in the world where you can experience the earliest human civilizations. And in the interest of preservation, the most renowned caves, such as Lascaux, are open only to scientists.
Which is why you should not miss Font-de-Gaume, among the last caves with multicolored paintings open to the public. Set above a valley, the entrance to the cave conceals a narrow twisting passage along which the 15,000-year-old paintings are revealed by a knowledgeable guide. The paintings feature 230 animals, including bison, mammoths, horses, reindeer, goats, wolves and bears. The cave and its art are absolutely magical. To preserve the paintings, lighting is kept to a minimum, as are people: just 200 are allowed to visit the caves daily. Our guide emphasized that the paintings are deteriorating, and the cave may not remain open to the public for much longer.
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Bergerac AOC
Overshadowed by the Bordeaux wine region, its world-renowned neighbor, Bergerac is the local wine of Dordogne, with wine domaines surrounding the lively market town of the same name (and also well worth a visit!). Derived from grape varieties and soil composition similar to those of Bordeaux wines, they are delicious and notably less expensive than Bordeaux. Within the Bergerac appellation are 13 distinct AOCs producing white, red and rosé vintages. Among our favorites are the crisp white Bergerac sec and the velvety red Pecharmant. Wine domaines in this region are also more informal and easier to visit than their Bordeaux neighbors. Bergerac wines are readily accessible throughout the area. For a more upscale selection, visit Julien de Savignac, a respected wine merchant with shops in le Bugue (ave. de la Libération) and Sarlat (place Pasteur).
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Bonnes Vacances!
Wishing
you a wonderful summer season!
- Allyn Kaufmann & Bruce Dicoskey
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