"Picnic Classics" June 17, 2010 - Volume 2 - Issue 12
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Take it Outdoors!
| The official start of summer,
the solstice, is upon us. However, the season's outdoor dining life has
been underway for quite a while now. We've reacquainted ourselves with
our grills, become adept at crushing ice, and find ourselves enjoying a
superabundance of fresh, local produce. Al fresco dining is at its
height, and our favorite summer traditions are brought to the table. The
leftovers, if any, have never been so good!
In this issue, we
celebrate four classics that always seem to find their way to the
outdoor table, Potato Salad, Coleslaw,
Three-Bean Salad, and Deviled Eggs. We'll share our best advice
for each of these favorites ensuring crowd success each time they're
made. A recipe for each is provided that will get you on your way to
improvising your own signature style of these great picnic classics.
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Away on Vacation
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Beyond Pots and Pans will be taking a break this summer and will be closed beginning July 4th through July 20.
We'll reopen Wednesday, July 21st at 10:00am. Hope to see you before and after!
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Perfect Potato Salad
| Everyone has an opinion about
what the perfect potato salad should be. These opinions can reach a
pitch of righteousness, but the truth is, everyone is correct and
perfection comes down to personal preference.
Recipe: Continental Potato
Salad
This
recipe is an innovative combination of German and
Scandinavian potato salads, the result of one family's blended tradition
all in one dish. The bacon and vinaigrette features of German potato
salad complement the sour cream and dill elements of the Scandinavian
side. The result is the perfect marriage of two traditions in one salad. View & Print
American Potato Salad - This
traditional version of potato salad builds on chunks of potatoes with
plenty of chopped eggs and onions bound in a mayonnaise-based mustard
and egg yolk dressing. Common variations might feature celery and/or
pickle relish. French Potato Salad- This version of potato salad is vinaigrette based featuring white
wine and white wine or champagne vinegar along with olive oil, Dijon
mustard, fresh herbs and often capers or cornichons. German Potato Salad - Bacon, cooked
and crumbled typifies a German-style potato salad along with a vinegar
and oil dressing. German potato salad is often served warm as a function
of the warm dressing. Warm or cold, it's a delicious alternative to
mayonnaise-based potato salads. Scandinavian
Potato Salad - Less well-known, but worthy of experimentation, a
Scandinavian potato salad uses sour cream instead of mayonnaise in a
dressing that features fresh dill. The result is a slightly lighter,
tangy taste with plenty of herbal freshness.
Tip #1: Skip
the laborious step of peeling and leave the skins on the potatoes. The
skins add extra color, fiber and micronutrients found near the skin.
Scrub the potatoes well with a good vegetable brush to remove any
residual soil.
Tip #2:For speedy cooking, cut the potatoes into evenly-sized bite-sized chunks
before boiling. They will cook more quickly and heat up the kitchen
less. Watch carefully for doneness so that the potatoes do not overcook.
Boil the potatoes early in the day to avoid adding to the kitchen's
afternoon heat.
Tip #3:Keep it cool! All picnic salads will fare better and stay safe if cooled
well before transporting, and if kept cold during serving and
afterwards. Use nested bowls with ice to keep things appropriately
chilled.
Tip
#4: For potato salads with vinaigrette-based dressings, add to
the cooked potatoes while they're still warm; the warmth will
facilitate the potatoes' absorption of the dressing's flavors. For
mayonnaise-based dressings, allow the potatoes to cool completely before
adding the dressing.
Tip #5: Add
some panache to potato salad by accessorizing the salad with capers,
diced salami, pepitas, diced roasted red peppers, or other favorites.
Q: How can I keep my
potato salad from getting mushy? A: The key to chunky potato
salad, (vs. "mashed" potato salad), is in choosing the right type of
potato. Potatoes are classified into two basic categories: waxy and
mealy. Waxy potatoes make for the best potato salad, while mealy
potatoes make great mashed potatoes. Waxy, lower-starch potatoes include
new red potatoes, Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn, and white round potatoes.
Potatoes with higher starch content such as Russet or long white
potatoes, should be avoided when making potato salad.
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Cool Coleslaw
| Coleslaw, or just "slaw," is
no different than potato salad - we all have our favorites. Cabbage is
the centerpiece ingredient by definition. Any cabbage -- green, purple,
or leafy -- may be used for coleslaw. According to legend, the term
"coleslaw" originates from the Dutch word for cabbage salad,
"koolsalade."
Recipe: Three Day Slaw
Beautiful on the table and
delicious to eat, this classic
coleslaw features an oil and vinegar dressing. The shredded carrots,
red bell pepper, and thinly sliced onions complement the cabbage in
taste and color. The dressing foundation is flavorful cider vinegar
sweetened with sugar and augmented by celery seed and dry mustard. True
to tradition, it gets better as it rests. View & Print
Recipe excerpted from Screen Doors and
Sweet Tea by Martha Hall Foose. Published by Clarkson
Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division
of Random House, Inc., New York, NY. Copyright 2008. Reprinted with
permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
Vinaigrette-based - Oil and
vinegar combine with a pinch of sugar and a smattering of spices to
dress this version of slaw. Celery seed, (unrelated to green celery
stalks) is a delicate flavor addition and a classic in vinaigrette-based
slaws.
Mayonnaise-based -
Many American versions of slaw use mayonnaise or buttermilk as the
basis for the dressing. Additions of vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper
complete the dressing and produce a creamy coleslaw.
Tip #1: Allow
the flavors to meld by allowing the salad to sit in the refrigerator for
a few hours. Not only will this resting time allow the flavors to peak,
it makes for the perfect do-ahead dish.
Tip #2: Experiment with other crunchy
additions to your slaw. Include matchstick pieces of a tart apple or
jicama. Broccoli slaw, made from the stems of broccoli, or red cabbage
provides colorful alternatives to the pale green cabbage classic.
Q: What's the best way
to shred cabbage for coleslaw? A: For perfectly shredded cabbage, use a mandoline for
even slices. The finer the threads of cabbage, the better. Cut the
cabbage in half, and each half into quarters. Leave the core of the
cabbage in place to hold the layers together for easier shredding, but
avoid shredding the core.
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Count 'em, Three Bean Salad
| A good three-bean salad is
always appropriate at the picnic or summer potluck table. It's one of
those dishes whose ingredients can be kept at the ready in the pantry
and assembled in a jiffy. The multi-color presentation adds to the
table's splendor, and the salad easily accepts innovation and
adaptations.
Recipe: Three Bean Salad
Thanks to pre-cooked beans, this
salad assembles
quickly. With a variety of beans at the ready, and the addition of
onion, garlic, and green bell pepper, this classic crowd salad is
dressed with garlic-flavored vinegar, olive oil, and seasoned with
sugar, salt and pepper. Like its cousins, it improves as it stands and
marinates. View & Print
Recipe excerpted from Screen Doors and
Sweet Tea by Martha Hall Foose. Published by Clarkson
Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division
of Random House, Inc., New York, NY. Copyright 2008. Reprinted with
permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
Tip #1: Make it a four-bean salad
with the addition of chickpeas. Chickpeas provide another color
addition, a shape variation, and a nutritional boost. Chickpeas have a
high protein content making their inclusion a perfect choice for any
vegetarians in the crowd.
Tip #2: Once
assembled and marinating in the refrigerator, stir the salad
occasionally to expose all of the bean mixture to the dressing.
Tip #3: Use a colander to easily
drain and rinse the various canned ingredients. Layer one bean on the
other. Transfer to a large bowl for the addition of the remaining
ingredients and the dressing.
Q: Can frozen beans be
used instead of canned beans? A:Yes. Cook or steam the frozen vegetables until quite tender, drain and
allow to cool slightly. The fresh bell pepper and onion may be added to
the warm beans and the dressing applied. The warmth of the beans will
help to absorb the dressing. Allow to cool completely, and serve cold.
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Heavenly Deviled Eggs
| One of our favorite finds on the picnic
buffet is the plate of deviled eggs. Have you noticed that there are
never any leftovers? They seem to disappear quickly in about four
delicious bites each.
Recipe:
Sold My Soul to the Devil-Eggs
This
Southern version of classic deviled eggs features crunch from green
onions and dill relish, and piquancy and color from yellow mustard. The
yolk mixture piped into the waiting wells with ease. We used a smidgen
of smoked paprika for garnishing color and a whiff of smoky flavor. View & Print
Recipe excerpted from Screen Doors and
Sweet Tea by Martha Hall Foose. Published by Clarkson
Potter/Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division
of Random House, Inc., New York, NY. Copyright 2008. Reprinted with
permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
Tip
#1: A deviled egg platter is a must for transporting and serving
the filled halves. The eggs whites tend to be rather slippery, and the
characteristic wells in a deviled egg platter help to keep the eggs
under control and in place. Most deviled egg plates are fashioned around
a dozen eggs with 24 ready wells for each half.
Tip #2:
Filling the egg white halves may be accomplished with a dollop of the
yolk mixture spooned into the center, or by piping the yolk mixture from
a plastic bag into the waiting wells.
Q: How can I reliably
avoid green yolks in my hard-boiled eggs? A: The green color on boiled egg yolks
comes from too much heat for too long. The extra heat inspires the
natural sulfur compounds in the eggs to shift composition and change in
color. For perfect boiled eggs, begin with cold eggs in a saucepan
covered with cold water. Bring the water and eggs to a boil. Allow to
boil for 30 seconds, remove from heat and allow to stand covered for 12
minutes. Cool the unpeeled eggs in cold water for 5 minutes. Crack the
egg shell and allow to further cool in cold water for another 5 minutes.
Peel and use.
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Cookbook Review
| Screen Doors and Sweet Tea, Recipes and Tales from a Southern Cook
by Martha Hall Foose. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an
imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.,
New York, NY. Copyright 2008.
Award
Winner of the 2009 James Beard Foundation - American Cooking
Part
cookbook and part storybook, Ms. Foose manages to craft a picture of
the Deep South in a unique fashion that captures the mood, culture, and,
(literally), flavor of a region that a cookbook or a storybook alone
could not accomplish on its own. The title, not necessarily a classic
cookbook title, paints the mood - the sound of the screen door clapping
shut behind someone carrying a tray laden with tall glasses of sweet tea
already sweating from heat, ready to refresh the porch sitters. A
repatriated Southerner, Ms. Foose presents the best of Southern cuisine
from appetizers, to soups and gumbos, to hearty fare, and to the
"sweetest things." Each offering is prefaced with a vignette of Southern
life. Together, the stories form an intriguing anthology of a place and
space with an authenticity that only a native could express and weave
together. As each recipe is made, one joins the legion of cooks that
have gone before and those still at it with a shared sense of tradition
and tradition's power to define who we are.
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Enjoy these full days of
summer!
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Lorraine, Katie, and all of the Staff at Beyond Pots and Pans
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