"Cheesecake!" March 04, 2010 - Volume 2 - Issue 05
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Yum!
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Cheesecake
is one of the top three favorite desserts in the country along with pie
and ice cream. Are we surprised? No! Creamy, delicious, and with
seemingly endless flavor varieties, cheesecake sets the dessert table
as easily at the coffee shop as at the white linen bistro. In fact,
it's a weak dessert menu if there's not at least one cheesecake
offering. But, this wonderful creation is not limited to dining out;
it's quite easy to make at home with minimal effort. In this issue, we
expose the secrets for making great cheesecakes, discuss baking pans
that will yield the desired results, and finish with three marvelous
cheesecake recipes for you to try. You'll be pleased with the results!
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Knife Skills Class - March 18th
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Making Perfect Cheesecake
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Cheesecake
has received a reputation for being difficult to make - we're not sure
why - it's much easier than most pastries, and the results always
delight even when they don't turn out just right! We'll take things
step-by-step and guide you to perfect cheesecakes - or at least better
cheesecakes!
 Crust
- the ideal cheesecake crust provides a complementary platform for the
cheesecake. Typically, recipes use a dry crumb moistened with a bit of
melted butter patted into the bottom of the pan. Unlike a pie, a
cheesecake crust covers just the bottom and a half-inch, or so, up the
sides. The crust helps to form a barrier between the batter and the
pan. After patting the crumbly crust into the pan, place the pan in the
freezer for 10-15 minutes while mixing the batter. This serves to
harden the crust into place and prevent any shifting of the crust when
the batter is added. Many bakers choose to prebake the crust in the
oven for 7-10 minutes prior to adding the batter.
Mixing the Batter
- Smoothness is the watchword when it comes to mixing the perfect
cheesecake batter. Cheesecake is primarily a cheese of one kind or
another, eggs, and sugar. In the U.S., cream cheese is the common
choice.
In Italy, it's ricotta cheese, and in other regions, different forms of
fresh, unripened cheese are used. Have your ingredients at room
temperature before mixing. Start with beating the cheese on low speed
into a very smooth consistency; lumps will not disappear or dissolve
during baking, so this is the moment to achieve the desired smooth,
creamy texture. Eggs serve to thicken the batter when baking. Add them
one-by-one incorporating thoroughly into the cheese. Using a low speed
while mixing will prevent over-aerating the batter.
Baking
- Cheesecakes typically bake between 325-350ºF, and for 1 to 1.5 hours.
This low and slow strategy allows for even baking - the outside will
not be over-baked, and the inside will not be under-baked. The first
half of baking is crucial for allowing air bubbles to expand and raise
the batter. Avoid opening the oven door to check progress;  this
will change the oven's temperature and risk collapse of the forming
texture. There are "no-bake" cheesecake variations, but we tend not to
think of them as "real" cheesecakes.
Checking for Doneness
- A reliable, tested recipe is your best resource for timing when
baking your cheesecake. The center of the pan should be wiggly and
wobbly still; this may appear as underdone, but the center will
continue to cook and set up during the initial stages of cooling.
Chilling
- Allow the cheesecake to cool on a wire rack until it reaches room
temperature - about 2 hours. Keeping the cheesecake in the pan, wrap it
well and refrigerate for at least 4-6 hours. The famed chef, Dorie
Greenspan, says in her book, Baking, that the cooling and chilling process is just as important to the finished cheesecake as the baking!
 Serving
- Cheesecake is almost synonymous with "richness." Allow the cheesecake
to set at room temperature for 30 minutes prior to serving to remove
the chill just a bit. Where a 9-inch pie might be cut into eight
wedges, a 9-inch cheesecake graciously serves twelve. A scalloped-edged
knife glides through the cheesecake while cutting neatly through the
crust. Wipe the knife clean after each cut. A pie server will deftly
lift the slice to the plate. A slice of cheesecake is typically served
upright for dramatic effect, but can just as easily be laid on its side
with toppings applied.
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Perfect Pans for Perfect Cheesecake
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A
finished cheesecake is fragile at the same time that it's substantial
and heavy. For good outcomes at the point of serving, it's essential
that you start with a proper pan. There are two basic pan styles
deployed when making cheesecake; either style will ensure easy handling
at finale time.
Springform Pans
- This pan is the common standard for cheesecake. The pan comes in two
parts, a bottom, and a circular band that forms its removable sides.
The band fits around the bottom and the clamp snugly tightens the ring
into place forming a leak-proof seal. Most springform pans have 3-inch
high sides that allow for lofty baking. To remove a cheesecake or other
baked good from a springform pan, run the back of a knife or a spatula
around the edge, carefully unclamp and lift away the ring.
Removable Bottom Pans -
Some bakers prefer this type of pan for cheesecake. The bottom of the
pan sits on a "shelf" formed by the sides of the pan. The weight of the
batter presses the bottom and the side ring together. When baking and
chilling is complete, run a blunt knife or spatula around the sides of
the pan.  Holding
the pan with one hand, push the cheesecake up from the bottom. You may
carefully transfer the cheesecake from the pan's bottom, or keep the
bottom in place for serving. Removable bottom pans come in all shapes,
sizes, and heights and are useful far beyond the cheesecake world.
Pan Surfaces -
The surfaces of baking pans vary in their finish. For cheesecake,
nonstick surfaces are a bonus since the pan is not typically prepared
by greasing and flouring as with most cakes. Alternatively, parchment
paper may be used to line the pan's bottom and sides. The paper
prevents any sticking to the pan, and is easily removed.
Pan Height
- Cheesecakes love to loft during baking and our preference seems to be
"the taller the better" when it comes to a slice of cheesecake - the
soaring heights add to the decadence! Choose a pan with a minimum of
3-inch sides. If needed,  additional height can be had by forming a collar of parchment paper while lining the sides of the pan.
Pan Diameter
- When making cheesecake, match the pan size to your recipe. This will
ensure that the baking time provided in the recipe is an accurate
estimate. For example, the volume of a 9-inch pan with 3-inch high
sides is 191 cubic inches; the volume of a 10-inch pan with 3-inch high
sides is 236 cubic inches. This is a difference of 45 cubic inches or
24%. If you must adapt your baking to a different size of pan, adjust
the baking time accordingly.
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Cheesecake Improv
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Cheesecake's
popularity is due, in part, to its adaptability. The mild, slightly
tangy cream cheeses or ricotta cheeses accept a wide range of flavors.
It's only the imagination that is limited. Here are a few of our
favorite riffs on cheesecake:
 Savory Cheesecakes
- The savory side of cheesecake is a great discovery ahead of you if
you haven't already become familiar with this notion. A savory
cheesecake may be served as an appetizer, a spread, or as a luncheon
entrée accompanied by a green salad. (See the savory recipe below).
Shift the Size
- While most cheesecake dreams evoke the image of a slice, you may
shift the expectation and presentation of cheesecake by making
different sizes of cheesecake. Both springform and removable bottom
pans come in varying diameters. Choose a 3 x 3-inch pan for an
individual cheesecake, or a 6 x 3 pan for a savory appetizer version.
Ramekins are suitable for cheesecake only if they are also the serving
vessel; it is often difficult to remove a cheesecake from a pan that
does not have a removable bottom of one kind or another.
Crust Variations
- The standard for cheesecake seems to be a graham cracker crust. But,
the world is big! Experiment with complementary flavors: ginger snaps,
vanilla wafers, shortbread cookies, nut meals, or biscotti. For savory
cheesecakes, try crusts made of cheesy crackers, saltines, crushed
pretzels, or corn chips.
 Batter Variations
- Once you've mastered a basic cheesecake, the door to flavor
variations opens wide! In the featured cookbook below, Chef Geary
offers hundreds of his personal favorites. As you explore flavor
additions think in three directions - the crust, the batter, and any
toppings.
Topping Variations
- Classic toppings of whipped cream or sweetened sour cream are almost
always appropriate with cheesecake. Fruit, fresh or sauced, is the
perfect visual complement and a tasty pairing. Other sauces, fudge,
caramel, dulce le leche, or crème anglaise are all perfect
accompaniments.
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Smart Cheesecake Tips
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 Tip #1:
Cracks in cheesecake can form while baking. Several factors can lead to
cracking. Bake your cheesecake in a medium to medium-low oven so that
it bakes slowly and more evenly. Cool the cheesecake gradually; some
recommend allowing the cheesecake to cool in the oven with the door
propped open. Cracks may also form if the cheesecake has baked too
long; don't overbake.
Tip #2:
If your cheesecake develops a crack, don't sweat it. Repair the crack
by smoothing the baked batter, or camouflaging it with toppings.
Tip #3: Wrap your cheesecake well when chilling; it will easily pick up any odors present in your refrigerator.
Tip #4:
Use fresh cream cheese for your cheesecakes. Cream cheese does not
freeze well, i.e., don't buy a lot of it on sale hoping to stockpile
for the future. Freezing changes the cream cheese's texture making it
unsuitable for use. Do not substitute non-fat cream cheese or whipped
cream cheese in your recipe - they do not mix or bake the same way as
regular cream cheese.
Tip #5:
Carefully store both springform and removable bottom pans so that they
are not subject to warping or bending. We dry our springform pan very,
very well, then store in a nearly clamped position.
 Tip #6:
The pan's bottom may be kept in place when plating and serving, but if
you would like to transfer the cheesecake from the bottom, line the
bottom with parchment paper to minimize any sticking of the crust. Use
a broad cookie spatula or circular cake spatula to manage the transfer.
Tip #7:
Some cheesecake recipes call for baking cheesecake in a water bath for
more even cooking. Place the cheesecake pan on a sheet of aluminum foil
and fold up the sides to prevent any water seepage into the pan.
Tip #8:
Baked cheesecakes freeze very well. Remove a chilled cheesecake from
its pan; allow it to freeze well while placed on a plate or cookie
sheet. Once frozen, wrap well and freeze for up to four months. Thaw
frozen cheesecake overnight in the refrigerator.
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Q & A's
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 Q:  What is cream cheese?
A: Cream
cheese is a fresh, unripened, pasteurized cheese comprised of 33% milk
fat with a slightly acidic character from the lactic acid formed by
introduced bacteria. The fat content of cream cheese is higher than
most cheeses making it a common substitute for butter. Cream cheese is
often compared to the French Neufchatel cheese that is similar in
texture and acidic taste, but is ripened unlike American cream cheese.
Q: What is a New York-style cheesecake?
A:
Different explanations exist for this cheesecake term. Generally, the
origins converge around a cheesecake that is made with cream cheese (as
opposed to ricotta), and with just the flavors of the cheese, egg, and
sugar. The popularity of cheesecake in New York City in the 1930s, no
doubt, has played a role in the colloquial term.
Q: What is parchment paper?
A: Parchment
paper is paper with integrated silicone. The silicone can handle heat
where waxed paper cannot. Parchment is a common baking liner that is
moisture, grease, and heat resistant. However, parchment is still paper
and will burn around the magic number of 451ºFarenheit. Avoid its use
in broiling or in toaster ovens where the heating element may be too
close to the paper.
 Q: Many baking pans are made from "anodized aluminum." What does this term mean?
A: Anodized
aluminum is the result of aluminum exposed to an acid-induced oxidation
process. This chemical process hardens aluminum in a special way that
makes it especially durable. Heat is transferred evenly through
anodized aluminum. A natural finish exists with anodized aluminum that
creates an inert surface, i.e., aluminum will not transfer from the pan
to the food. Pans may be prepared as "hard anodized" or "silver
anodized." A hard anodized pan is processed longer and has an even
harder surface. Wash all anodized aluminum pans by hand, and never in
the dishwasher. |
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Cookbook Review
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The Cheesecake bible by George Geary. Copyright 2008. Published by Robert Rose Inc., Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
 Who
knew there could be so many different kinds of cheesecake? George Geary
has assembled a compendium of hundreds of cheesecake recipes that cover
some serious culinary ground with their range of flavors and
combinations. He tutors us through the basics in the first chapter,
then unleashes the possibilities with following chapters such as
"Chocolate Cheesecakes," "Citrus Cheesecakes," "Nut Cheesecakes," and
many other chapters. We especially enjoyed the chapter on "Savory
Cheesecakes" where wonderful flavors are brought to the richness of the
cheesecake world. He helps us explore small cheesecakes, classic and
inventive toppings, and concludes with a series of "Celebration
Cheesecakes" that truly would make any occasion even more special. Each
recipe is presented succinctly and clearly with added variation notes
and presentation suggestions. This cookbook gets extra points for
offering all of the measurements in metric quantities - weighing
ingredients allows for the most accurate results and the least amount
of clean-up. From basic to exotic, you'll find a cheesecake suitable
for any occasion in this book!
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Recipes for Three Delicious Cheesecakes
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Recipes excerpted from The Cheesecake bible
by George Geary. Copyright 2008. Published by Robert Rose Inc.,
Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Reprinted with permission of the publisher.
All rights reserved.
 Blue Ribbon Cheesecake
We
know why this is called the Blue Ribbon Cheesecake - it has all of the
qualities of a winner! This basic cheesecake is a great place to start
if you're a newbie to baking your own cheesecakes. The recipe went
together quickly, lofted nicely, and tasted just how we thought a
cheesecake should taste. We agree with George's mother who likes this
recipe the best!
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)
 Black Forest Cheesecake
This
classic combination of chocolate and cherries is reinvented in this
cheesecake. The crust is made of chocolate sandwich cookies with the
crème filling adding a bit of "extra" to the final result. The
bittersweet chocolate combined with the cheese, produced some kind of
dessert dreamland in our mouth. The cherries and whipped cream
completed the moment.
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)
 Pesto Sun-Dried Tomato Cheesecake
If
you're unfamiliar with savory cheesecakes, this is a great recipe with
which to experiment. The fresh flavors of basil and garlic combine with
the intensity of sun-dried tomatoes to create a scrumptious wedge. We
served it once as a luncheon entrée, and a second time as an appetizer
spread on crackers. Tasty, rich and wonderfully different!
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)
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Make a dessert date soon with your favorite cheesecake!
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Lorraine, Katie, and all of the Staff at Beyond Pots and Pans
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