"Ruffles & Truffles" February 04, 2010 - Volume 2 - Issue 03
|
|
|
|
|
|
Chocolate Passions
|
Chocolate
devotees remember their first truffle with the same detail and fondness
that they remember their first kiss! Unlike their mother's box of
chocolates with cloying nougats, the first bite of a true chocolate
truffle declared new territory! With chocolate truffles, the soft
ganache hidden inside the petite gems dissolves perfectly at mouth
temperature, eliciting no words, only sighs. A splendid truffle is as
wonderful as a great glass of wine, a bite of perfectly seared steak,
an al dente tortellini - in other words,  a
permanent resident in the pantheon of food fantasies. Chocolate
truffles are traditionally rough, cocoa-dusted balls of ganache named
so because of their similarity to the rare and greatly prized mushroom
truffles. In this issue, we equip you with the knowledge and skills for
devising your own signature truffles. We'll demystify the magic behind
tempering chocolate and making ganache, while offering tons of tips for
successfully working with chocolate in your own kitchen. We finish with
three recipes for truffles - each a great example of different
truffle-making methods. You'll be amazed at the ease of fashioning your
own truffles, and delighted at the response of the lucky people you
share them with - if you share, that is!
|
Annual Sweetheart Sale - Feb 4, 5, 6
|
|
|
|
|
Special Events
|
|
Knife Skills Class - March 25th
|
|
Know Your Chocolate
|
Long
revered as an aphrodisiac, we now know that chocolate is also
medicinal! The high antioxidant content of chocolate qualifies it - at
least in our minds - as a health food! (1.5-ounces of bittersweet
chocolate has the antioxidant value of a 5-ounce glass of red wine).
We've been chocophiles long enough to become acutely aware of the
differences between chocolates and their nuances. Like other favorite
indulgences, (wine, coffee, etc.), chocolate reflects the land on which
it's been grown, how it's fermented and processed, and how it's
combined with other ingredients.
Great Beans -
Chocolate is derived from seeds harvested from the tropical cacao tree.
The seeds are encased in pulpy cacao pods. After the cacao pods are
harvested, the seeds and pulp are left to ferment for 3-7 days. The
seeds are then extracted, roasted, and ground. The ground seeds create
a bean paste comprised of cocoa butter (40-50%), and cocoa powder
(50-60%). The bean paste is melted to form chocolate liquor, a smooth,
liquid slurry of the cocoa butter and cocoa powder. Most chocolate
manufacturers form their confections from commoditized chocolate
liquor. In the U.S.,  there are only twelve chocolate makers that control their product "from bean to bar."
Types of Chocolate
- Different chocolate preparations are often defined by percentages.
The percentages define the amount of cacao bean in the product - that
is, the proportion of the chocolate that is cocoa butter and cocoa
powder.
Milk chocolate - 30-40% cacao
Semi-sweet chocolate - 55-60% cacao
Bittersweet chocolate - 65-80% cacao
Unsweetened chocolate - 99% cacao
Substituting Chocolate
- Chef Shotts, in the featured book below, recommends not substituting
a chocolate that varies more than 5% from what the recipe specifies.
Chef Alice Medrich notes that it is possible to substitute bittersweet
chocolate for semi-sweet chocolate by decreasing the amount of
chocolate by 10% and adding 1 teaspoon of sugar for each ounce of
chocolate used.
Use High Quality Chocolate
- The greater the role of chocolate in the final product, the more
important it is to use high quality chocolate. Beware of "wannabe"
products sporting names like "chocolate-flavored," or "chocolate-like."
|
Temper, Temper
|
One
of our customers recently announced "I don't understand tempering
chocolate, so I just skip that step." She went on to lament, "Why do my
chocolates turn out dull and sticky?" Hmm.... Turns out, there's a
direct correlation between great results and tempering the chocolate!
Tempering
chocolate is worth mastering and easier than you think. Tempering
chocolate involves heating chocolate and cooling it in such a way that
the crystalline structure of the chocolate is optimized. Invisible to
the eye, wonderful things are happening to the chocolate as it is
heated and cooled. Tempered chocolate results in shiny, even surfaces
that hardens well and stays hardened at room temperature. In other
words, tempered chocolate behaves appropriately and performs nicely in
the kitchen. It's a step that you really can't skip!
How to Temper Dark Chocolate:
 Tempering
chocolate is about heating chocolate and controlling how it cools. The
tight temperature management involved with tempering requires the
instant information available with today's digital thermometers.
Instant-read, digital thermometers take all of the mystery out of
tempering, and provide the essential magic for realizing chocolate
success every time.
Microwave Method:
Step 1:
Melt - Place three-fourths of the dark chocolate to be tempered in a
heavy, microwavable bowl. (We like to use our thick-walled chili
bowls). Heat the chocolate 45-60 seconds at a time on a 50% power
setting. Stir the chocolate after each minute until melted and smooth.
Step 2:
Heat - Heat the chocolate to a temperature of 115-120ºF. This melting
point dissolves the chocolate's crystalline structures and sets the
scene for proper re-crystallizing.
 Step 3: Cool - Allow the chocolate to cool to 95ºF with occasional stirring. It won't take long for this cooling to occur.
Step 4:
Seed - At 95ºF, the chocolate is beginning to reform its crystalline
structure. Add some solid chocolate bits from the remaining fourth of
chocolate to the melted chocolate. The solid chocolate will melt and
provide "seed crystals" for the cooling chocolate to form around.
Continue to add the solid chocolate bits until the chocolate reaches a
temperature of 86ºF.
Step 5:
Reheat & Hold - Reheat the cooled, tempered chocolate ever so
slightly to 89ºF and hold at that temperature while dipping or molding.
Double-Boiler Method:
The
same heating and cooling process can be accomplished in a double boiler
where the indirect heat from the steam melts and heats the chocolate.
Chocolate burns easily -- at around 200ºF -- so placing the chocolate
in a saucepan directly on the stovetop is not an option.
Tempering Semi-Dark, Milk or White Chocolates:
Similar to dark chocolate, other types of chocolate benefit greatly
from the tempering process. Follow the same process, but key in on the
different temperature points that characterize these other chocolate
forms.
|
Making Ganache
|
A
chocolate ganache is deceptively easy to make for something that is so
incredible to eat! At it's basic form, ganache (French origin,
pronounced "GUH-nash"), is a mixture of chocolate and cream. The cream
integrates with the chocolate's structure giving it a lighter,
whipped-like texture. The result is a bite of chocolate that rapidly
dissolves in the mouth giving new meaning to the common phrase, "melt
in your mouth."
Steps for Making Ganache:
 Step 1: Chop
or shave chocolate into small pieces. Small nuggets, the size of
traditional chocolate chips, are a good size. Place in a small, deep
bowl. Choose a bowl that will retain heat and that can be micro-waved
if necessary. (We like to use our chili soup bowls for this step).
Step 2:
Heat the cream in a small saucepan until it just begins to boil. Watch
carefully as cream can burn easily after this point. Use a high quality
pan that transfers heat efficiently to prevent burning on the bottom. A
common ganache ratio is twice as much chocolate to cream by weight.
Step 3:
Pour the heated cream over the chopped chocolate waiting in the bowl.
Let set for 5 minutes without stirring or disturbing. (Do not put the
chocolate  in the saucepan with the cream; the pan will retain too much residual heat for the mixture).
Step 4:
Stir the chocolate and cream mixture gently until the two become
incorporated into a shiny, uniform mixture. The ganache will thicken as
it cools. Allow it to cool gradually to room temperature; avoid the
temptation to rush things by putting the ganache in the refrigerator.
Once at room temperature, the ganache is ready for use or may be
refrigerated until needed.
Flavor Variations:
Add flavor to ganache through flavoring the cream, (as with the
raspberry puree in the Red Rose Truffles below), or add flavors,
(especially liqueurs and fragrant oils as in the Grand Marnier Truffles
below), when the ganache temperature cools to 95ºF.
Working with Ganache:
Ganache is built to melt quickly in your mouth and has a very low
melting point compared to plain chocolate. While delightful to eat,
working with ganache can be tricky. To form the ganache centers of
truffles, try one of these methods:
By Hand
- Scoop a small spoonful of thoroughly cooled, refrigerated ganache.
Roll in the palm of your hands quickly forming a small round ball.  A very small ice cream scoop, or melon baller may be quite useful in forming a ball that can be finished off quickly by hand. Piping -
Alternatively, placed cooled, (not refrigerated), ganache in a piping
or plastic bag. Squeeze out equal mounds of ganache on a cookie sheet
lined with wax or parchment paper. When cooled further, balls of
ganache can be easily rolled and completed. Sheeted
- Ganache can be poured in a shallow pan, cooled, (even frozen), until
firm, then cut into squares or shape with small cookie cutters. |
Smart Chocolate Truffle Tips
|
Tip #1:
Add just a slight amount of cayenne pepper to the ganache mixture. In
the right quantity, the hot spice will be imperceptible as a distinct
taste, but will heighten the mouth's response to the chocolate with a
delightful "afterburn."
 Tip #2:
Use a variety of coatings for rolled balls of ganache. Try chopped
pistachios, confectioner's sugar, toasted coconut, granulated sugar
with a splash of luster dust, a combination of dark cocoa powder mixed
with granulated sugar, sipping chocolate powders - including the "hot,"
spicy sipping chocolates, or finely crushed cacao nibs.
Tip #3:
To make chocolate ruffles for decorating and garnishing, pour tempered
chocolate in a thin layer on top of an over-turned jelly roll pan.
Allow the chocolate to set slightly. With an offset spatula, or other
straight edge held at an angle, scrape the chocolate off the jelly roll
pan with an arc motion. Temperature and practice will yield great
chocolate ruffles and a great frill to any dessert.
Tip #4:
To keep tempered chocolate at proper working temperature, use a
thick-walled bowl for your tempered chocolate. To further maintain the
temperature, form an insulating nest from folded dishtowels to hold the
bowl. Tempering machines are often available for holding the chocolate
at a constant low temperature for large batches.
Tip #5: Take
special care once chocolate cools to its tempering point to reheat it
only slightly to its working temperature. If the reheated chocolate
becomes too hot, it loses its temper and its optimal crystalline
structure. If the chocolate becomes too hot, repeat the cooling and
seeding process to bring the chocolate back into temper.
Tip #6: Serve truffles at room temperature;  this
will allow the delicate flavors to bloom in the mouth and for the best
texture and mouth feel. Many truffles are perishable and should be kept
refrigerated, but wait 30 minutes before serving to allow them to come
to room temperature.
Tip #7: Pair dark chocolate desserts with robust, red wines. Avoid dessert wines that may add too much sweetness to the occasion.
|
Q & A's
|
 Q: What are the whitish-gray spots on my chocolate?
A: These
surface spots are known as "chocolate bloom" and appear when chocolate
has been improperly stored at some point in its life.  Chocolate bloom
can arise from two situations: fat bloom or sugar bloom. Fat bloom
results from slight melting and separation of the chocolate components
on the surface. The white spots are re-crystallized cocoa butter. Sugar
bloom occurs in conditions of heavy humidity. The water dissolves some
of the sugar in the chocolate and as the chocolate re-dries, the sugar
re-crystallizes on the surface. Chocolate with "bloom" may not look
great, but it will not affect its taste, use, or performance. The
chocolate bloom will disappear when the chocolate is re-tempered.
Q: What is white chocolate?
A: The
ground, roasted cacao beans have two components: cocoa powder and cocoa
butter. Most chocolate uses both items, where white chocolate uses only
the cocoa butter portion of the bean. Like other chocolate, sugar,
milk, and vanilla are added to the cocoa butter to make the white
chocolate we purchase.
 Q: My smooth, melted chocolate just turned grainy and hard. What happened?
A: Your
chocolate just "seized." The melted chocolate contacted a drop of
water. It may be a random drop, or steam condensate from your double
boiler (which is why a microwave is so nice to use). As discussed
above, chocolate has an intricate crystalline structure. The
introduction of water "inspires" the mixture to form crystals around
the water instead of the seed chocolate. Aberrant crystals form
immediately creating a grainy, stiff mess. There's no recourse for
chocolate that's seized - start over! |
|
Cookbook Review
|
Making Artisan Chocolates, Flavor-Infused Chocolates, Truffles, and Confections
by Andrew Garrison Shotts. Photography by Madeline Polss. Copyright
2007. Published by Quarry Books, a member of Quayside Publishing Group,
Gloucester, MA.
Andrew Garrison Shotts - Winner of the Food Network 2007 Hot Chocolate Award
 This
book is basic and advanced all in one cover. If you've ever desired to
know the secrets of boutique handcrafted chocolates, they are revealed
in these pages. Mr. Shotts knows his chocolate, and also knows how to
communicate his knowledge and passion about working with chocolate. He
starts with a primer about chocolate, where it comes from, how cacao
beans are transformed into chocolate, and then sets the table for
working in flavors, best pairings and elegant presentations. The recipe
portion of the book is divided into four working chapters: Truffles,
Molded Chocolates, Hand-Dipped Chocolates, and Fun Chocolate
Confections. Each recipe is expertly presented with special tutoring
provided for each step of the process. We love the fact that the amount
of each ingredient is expressed by both volume and by weight. (We love
cooking by weight measurements whenever we can - it's so much easier,
more accurate, and with less clean-up). The lavish photography
throughout the book provides great visual inspiration as well as
concrete guidance. You'll enjoy the unique flavor combinations in the
presented recipes, and will close the back cover with the confidence to
experiment on your own in creating and crafting upscale chocolates.
|
|
Three Terrific Truffles!
|
Recipes excerpted from Making Artisan Chocolates
by Andrew Garrison Shotts. Copyright 2007. Published by Quarry Books, a
member of Quayside Publishing Group, Gloucester, MA. Reprinted with
permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.
 Truffles - Classic Dark 72 Percent
"Classic"
is the perfect term for these dusty jewels! Deep, dark chocolate is
showcased in this recipe for truffles. The depth of chocolate flavor
cannot be underestimated. The thin chocolate shell encases a ganache
that melts in your mouth releasing a concentrated essence of chocolate.
Making truffles is deceptively easy; start here with this basic recipe,
then apply your creativity from here. (Looking for simple? Just make
the ganache and roll in your favorite coating - no tempering or
chocolate shell necessary).
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)
 Red Rose Molded Chocolates
A
perfect Valentine's gift, (or really anytime), these Red Rose truffles
are a great example of molded chocolate shells with a ganache filling.
The ganache is flavored with raspberry puree, a classic flavor to pair
with chocolate. The raspberry essence comes through the dark chocolate
context in a very subtle, yet unmistakable, fashion. Definitely the
food of love!
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)
 Hand-Dipped Grand Marnier Chocolates
Rich
flavors exude from these little squares. The Grand Marnier liqueur and
the orange oil lend a fresh citrus taste to the deep, dark chocolate. A
great example of a third way to make truffles, the firmed up ganache is
cut into squares, dipped in tempered chocolate, and garnished with a
bit of candied orange peel. We received no complaints, only plenty of
contented sighs!
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe. (PDF format)
|
 |
Indulge your chocolate passions!
|
|
Lorraine, Katie, and all of the Staff at Beyond Pots and Pans
|
|
|
|
|
