"Fresh, Better Bread"
October 08, 2009 - Volume 1 - Issue 19
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Better than Sliced Bread!
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What's
better than sliced bread? Unsliced bread, of course! Fresh bread that
you've mixed and baked yourself! Today's trend in homemade breads
revives and builds upon some very old bread making traditions. Now
artisan breads are available from your kitchen, fresh from your oven,
with a minimal amount of effort. The new method harnesses the special
powers of yeast to do the heavy, messy work of risen breads. We think
you'll prefer it over "boughten" bread, even if you live near a
terrific bakery.
In
this issue we explain the science behind the new method for making
artisan breads at home, and offer some advice about measuring and bread
baking tools. We complete the issue with three bread recipes from Kneadlessly Simple
by Nancy Baggett. You will love the ease of these recipes, but you'll
love the results even more - wonderfully flavorful, hot, fresh bread
that you've made yourself!
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Special Workshop
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Faster Bread by Slowing Down
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Throw
all of the assumptions you've had about making yeast bread out the
window! Instead, become acquainted with the slow-rise, no-knead bread
baking method! The emphasis on making great bread has shifted from a
very physical, labor-intensive process on the one hand, and from
one-step bread machines on the other hand, to something much simpler
and infinitely more flavorful.
 The Science Behind Slow-Rise, No-Knead Bread
- Far from being a gimmick, the slow-rise, no-knead method of bread
making calls on the power of yeast to accomplish 99% of the work.
Bread (and Wine and Beer) - They're all dependent on yeast for their existence! Baking yeast is a one-celled, live organism, Saccharomyces cerevisiae,
that's officially part of the Fungi classification. Yeast loves sugar!
As it devours the sugars present in any carbohydrate ingredient, carbon
dioxide is formed as a gas. The gas bubbles create the fizz in beer and
the texture of baked bread as the strands of dough become immortalized
around the bubbles during baking.
Newer, "Instant" Yeasts
- The first secret of today's artisan bread methods is "Fast-rise,"
"Quick-rise", or "Instant" yeast. This yeast does not require any
proofing. (Previously, most yeast breads required that the yeast be
placed in water at just the right temperature until it became
rehydrated and bubbly, a process sometimes termed as "blooming." This
proofing step ensured that the yeast was viable and ready for work).
Instant yeast granules are smaller in size and do not require proofing.
They are produced and packaged such that their viability is quite
reliable. In most slow-rise methods, the instant yeast is added to the
dry ingredients and dissolved as the wet ingredients are added. Instant
yeasts are also used in bread machine methods of bread making.
 A Cold First Rise
- The second secret of new bread baking is a cold first rise, also
known as "delayed first fermentation." Cool refrigerator temperatures
surrounding the just mixed bread control the yeast's exuberance to a
very slow pace. Meanwhile, the wet ingredients have time to work on the
flour breaking it down to simpler forms and allowing its natural
enzymes to be released. The result is incredible flavor that comes only
from a cool "delayed first fermentation."
A Cool Second Rise
- Following a vigorous, quick stir, the second rise of the dough is
accomplished in cool room temperatures for up to 18 to 24 hours. The
second rise happens slowly because of the initially cold dough. As the
yeast does its work, the all-important strands of gluten are formed,
stretched, and developed. It's this second, elongated rise that takes
the place of kneading. The cookbook author featured below calls this
"micro-kneading."
 Baking the Bread
- The baking of homemade bread is perhaps the best air freshener a home
could have! About 30 minutes into the 60-75 minute bake time, the
aromas begin to envelop the kitchen and permeate throughout the house.
Slow-rise, no-knead breads will generally take longer to bake than
traditional yeast breads. An instant-read thermometer registering 210°F
at the bread's center indicates doneness.
Schedule Elasticity
- So far, hands-on time has included five minutes for the measuring and
mixing, and one minute for stirring after the first rise - six minutes
in total! However, the elapsed time has been anywhere from 24 to 36
hours. Allowing the dough to rise slowly in cool conditions not only
yields a wonderfully tasting loaf of bread, but a lot of elasticity in
the schedule. While the slow-cool-rise processing may seem like an
exercise in delayed gratification, it can become an easy routine to
have the next loaf in motion at all times. Here's how we're
experimenting with the slow-rise method:
Interested in learning and experimenting more with slow-rise, no-knead bread? We recommend Kneadlessly Simply by Nancy Baggett, (featured below), or Peter Reinhart's The Bread Baker's Apprentice, or his soon-to-be released Peter Reinhart's Artisan Breads Every Day, or Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François.
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Reviving Bread Making at Home
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You're
asking, what's the catch? Great, fresh bread with 5-6 minutes of
hands-on work? It's just that simple - just a few common ingredients
and a couple common kitchen tools.
Tool Simplicity -- The gear list for a basic, slow-rise bread includes exactly six tools:  1. Large mixing bowl
2. A sturdy mixing spoon
3. One-cup measure
4. Teaspoon measure
5. Baking pan or surface, and
6. Cooling rack
That's
it! Even the simplest of equipped kitchens can become a fresh bread
baking factory! One of the stated reasons for not making yeast breads
is the mess that arises during the process. The sticky kneading board
or countertop, the fine dust of flour flown about the kitchen during
kneading, or the yeasty dough underneath one's fingernails, etc., etc.
With this method, initial clean-up is limited to the mixing spoon, a
one-cup measure and a teaspoon measure. How much easier could it get?
Dollars to Pennies
- It would be difficult to drive to your local bakery, wait in line,
and drive home in less than 5-6 minutes, but if time and flavor don't
convince you to try this bread making method, perhaps cost will. We
added up the cost of the ingredients in the first recipe below and
compared it to some other bread choices:
The Baking Pan
- Not all bread needs to be baked in a loaf pan, though they certainly
work quite well. Bread can be baked in a free-formed, round loaf and
baked on a cookie sheet. Many of the recipes we explored called for
using a Dutch oven or a lidded casserole dish. The heavy cast iron or
ceramic character of these pans suits bread baking perfectly with their
special heat transfer capabilities.
Serving Fresh Bread
- If you're a newbie to serving fresh-from-the-oven bread, you'll find
that it may be difficult to cut when hot. It's perfectly fine to allow
family or guests to tear a piece of bread from a fresh loaf. Or,
allowing the bread to set a few minutes will make for easier cutting. A
true bread knife is invaluable for slicing fresh bread. Choose a knife
that has a serrated edge and is long-enough to match a typical loaf of
peasant bread - at least a 10-12" blade length.
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Mastering Measuring
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In
a carpenter's world the saying goes, "Measure twice, cut once." Bakers
don't quite have the chance to measure twice, so it's best to get it
right the first time! Having accurate measuring tools is the first
step. It's amazing how many measuring tools are inaccurate in their
construction.  Choose
tools that are from a reputable manufacturer. We have several styles of
cups and spoons that we recommend and would be happy to point out their
different features.
Measuring Liquids
- To measure liquid ingredients, use a glass or plastic cup that has
accurate markings and features a spout for pouring. When measuring make
sure to "read" the liquid's level horizontally from eye level. If the
angle of your view is not level, your measurement will be off. Use a
small rubber or silicone scraper to fully empty the measuring cup. For
very viscous liquids like honey or molasses, oil the inside of the
measuring cup; the sweet liquid will slip out easily without leaving
any product behind.
 Measuring Dry Ingredients
- To measure dry ingredients, use graduated or nested measuring cups.
They may be made of plastic, ceramic or stainless steel. We like
measuring cups that have permanent markings embossed on their handles
or sides. Painted markings may disappear in time with dishwashing and
handling. With accurate tools in hand, a correct technique is also
required. Here are a few tips for accurately measuring some common
bread ingredients.
- Powdery Textures
- (Flour, Baking Powder, Baking Soda, Confectioner's Sugar) - Stir or
lightly fluff the powder in its container. Spoon the powder into the
measuring cup. Fill to overflowing, then scrape off any excess
 so
that the contents are level with the top of the cup. Do not pack, tamp
down, or allow it to settle. Also, do not scoop powdery ingredients
with the measuring tool; this has the effect of packing the ingredients
causing too much to be used.
- Granulated Textures - Sugar, Salt - Simply pour or spoon into the measure and level off.
Measuring by Weight
- Measuring ingredients by weight is a well-used method in commercial
kitchens and in international cultures. We often prefer weighing
ingredients when baking because it is so easy to add ingredients
according to the scale's display without measuring cups or spoons.
Convert your favorite recipes from volume measurements to weight
measurements and simplify your life. The density of the ingredient will
affect the volume-to-weight calculation; use the Nutrition Information
table on the ingredient's packaging where the volume-to-weight
conversion for the product is listed.
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Smart Slow-Rise Bread Making Tips
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Tip #1: Upon discovering your new favorite bread, mix several batches of the dry ingredients and store in a zipper bag.  Write
a card with the remaining ingredients listed, the baking temperature
and time noted, and tape it to the bag. The next time you are ready to
mix a loaf, it will take you only two minutes and only one spoon to
wash!
Tip #2: Showcase
your fresh bread in a bread basket, or on a cutting board draped with a
beautiful tea towel. Baskets and fabric will allow steam to be released
while keeping your bread warm.
Tip #3:
Slow-rise, no-knead breads seem to use a smaller quantity of yeast than
other yeast bread recipes and usually less than a single envelope.
Consider buying a jar of yeast that allows you to use just what you
need and avoids a half-used packet.
Tip #4:
Yeast is a dormant, one-celled organism that "comes alive" when in
contact with water. To ensure freshness, always check the expiration
date when purchasing. Unopened yeast packages may be stored in a
cupboard; opened packets or jars should be stored tightly closed in the
refrigerator.
Tip #5:
Within 5 minutes of removing the bread from the oven, turn the bread
out of its pan and place on a cooling rack. This will prevent the
outside of the bread from getting wet from steam condensation as the
bread cools.
 Tip #6:
Slow-rising bread asks the yeast to work for a relatively long period
of time. However, there are limits to yeast's tolerance - at some
point, the yeast can become expended and fail to rise - call it
post-party exhaustion. Over-fermentation can be avoided by cooling the
dough for more of the rising period, and acting within the 24-36 hour
window.
Tip #7: Keep
extra sets of measuring cups and measuring spoons in your utensil
drawer. This will allow you to keep baking without having to wash or
rinse a measuring cup or spoon for the next ingredient. Extras will
also allow you to avoid reaching into a dirty dishwasher during the
next recipe.
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Q & A's
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Q: Why the emphasis on the feel of the dough?
 A:
Flour varies in the amount of moisture that it can hold based on local
weather conditions, the type of flour, or the way in which flour was
measured. Some say the amount of flour used can vary up to 25%.
Becoming comfortable with the feel of the dough provides a guidepost
for achieving the desired outcome.
Q: Does sifting affect the measurement of flour?
A:
Yes! A cup of sifted flour will weigh approximately 4 ounces. In
contrast, one cup of unsifted flour will weigh 4.75 ounces - a 18+%
difference! If the recipe calls for sifted flour, most definitely sift
the flour. If the recipe does not specify sifted flour, then spoon
"fluffed" flour (see above) into the measuring cup and level off. In
the "olden days" flour was routinely sifted to break up clumps of flour
and to remove hard bits. Today's flour quality does not require sifting
unless specified by the recipe.
Q: What is a dash? A pinch? A smidgen?
A:
Many baking recipes call for a dash, pinch or a smidgen. According to
most, a dash is 1/8 tsp., a pinch is 1/16 tsp., and a smidgen is 1/32
tsp. And yes, there are measuring spoon sets available for a Dash,
Pinch and Smidgen!
Q: What is the difference between all-purpose flour, bread flour, cake flour, and self-rising flour?
A:
All-purpose flour is for general use in any recipe unless specified
otherwise. Bread flour is made from hard wheat which has a higher
protein content and greater percentage of gluten. Cake flour is flour
with a low protein content and only half the glutens of bread flour.  Cake
flour produces a fine, very tender product in baking, but it is not
suitable for bread making; use it for cookies and cakes. Self-rising
flour is pre-mixed flour containing baking powder and salt and is more
suitable for making quick breads, (pancakes, muffins, waffles), than
yeast breads.
Q: What is the proper etiquette when dipping bread in oil?
A:
Dipping oils are a great way to enjoy fresh bread while substituting
healthier oils for butter. Tear off a bite-sized piece of bread and dip
in oil. Do not dip an entire slice of bread in the oil, and certainly
do not "double-dip" the slice after having bitten off a piece.
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Cookbook Review
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Kneadlessly Simple, Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads by Nancy Baggett. Copyright 2009. Photography by Alexandra Grablewski. Published by John Wiley & Sons, Inc, Hoboken, NJ.
True
to its title, this cookbook takes us down a new pathway for making
bread. And while there are several takes on cool, slow-rise bread
baking, we found this book particularly accessible in its instructions
and breadth of adapted recipes.  Ms.
Baggett expertly explains the chemistry behind the chilled temperatures
and the elongated rising times. We especially appreciated the flexible
schedule that she builds into each recipe; she clearly understands real
life and last minute changes to the agenda. The cookbook starts with
easy, yet delicious, recipes designed to train the renewed bread baker
in the new method. From there the variations break out in several
directions. She covers American Favorites, Old-World Classics, Whole
and Multi-Grains, Gluten-Free Breads, and Sweet Breads. A great
trouble-shooting section provides a safety net and confidence for the
experimentation ahead. The book ends with expert guidance for
converting your own beloved bread recipes to the cool, slow-rise
method. We can't wait to try the Cinnamon Sticky Buns and the Rosemary
Focaccia!
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Recipes for Fresh, Better Bread
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Recipes excerpted from Kneadlessly Simple, Fabulous, Fuss-Free, No-Knead Breads
by Nancy Baggett. Copyright 2009. Published by John Wiley & Sons,
Inc, Hoboken, NJ. Reprinted with permission of the publisher. All
rights reserved.
Crusty White, Peasant-Style Pot Bread
 This
was our first attempt at using the cool, slow-rise method of
bread-making. We added a cup of kalamata olives as suggested in one of
the variations. It was a huge success! Not only was it incredibly
easy, the result was extremely rewarding! The recipe produced a
well-rounded loaf with a beautiful golden crust. The taste and texture
was divine! We plan to make this bread again and again.
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
Great Granola Breakfast Bread
 Bolstered
by our first round of success, this recipe sounded wonderful and we
were right! Easily mixed, as promised, the bread had just the slightest
hint of sweetness. The added granola provided some extra texture. We
thoroughly enjoyed it when it was warm, and possibly even more when it
was toasted. Buttered toast and a glass of milk - breakfast nirvana!
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
Crispy Roasted Garlic and Parmesan Pot Bread
 Another
winner! We roasted the garlic earlier when the oven was on and had the
garlic/cheese paste ready to mix into the dough ahead of time. The
dough took all of five minutes to make, and another minute to tend the
next day. The baked bread had a rich, yet not overwhelming, garlic and
cheese flavor that made the perfect bruschetta base and a fantastic
garlic toast. Yummm...
Click here to view the full, illustrated recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
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We hope you enjoy rediscovering fresh, homemade bread!
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Lorraine, Katie, and all of the Staff at Beyond Pots and Pans
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