"Smokin Grill"
Jun 04, 2009 - Volume 1 - Issue 6
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Away on Vacation |
Beyond Pots and Pans will be taking a break this summer and will be closed beginning July 4th through July 20. We'll reopen Tuesday, July 21st at 10:00am. Hope to see you before and after!
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Where There's Smoke...
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Where there's smoke . . . , there's great food! The
food world has always been in favor of grilling outdoors, but only
recently have we returned to our traditional roots of capturing outdoor
flavor in the form of long, slow, deliberate cooking - the type of
cooking that concentrates wisps of smoke into layers of deep, rich, and
complex flavor. The magic of smoke can be incorporated into anyone's
repertoire with remarkable ease - it will be your new secret ingredient
this summer! In this issue we explore smoking as a cooking technique,
discuss some key topics for grilling success, and explain the
differences between rubs, marinades, sauces and more! Finally we
introduce you to some grilling experts and three of their recipes that
will put your new smoking skills to use in a most palatable way!
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June Special!
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Just for June! To get some great smoky flavor going on your grill, Buy One pack of Grilling Planks and Get One pack of Grilling Papers for FREE!
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Two Upcoming Events
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 Book Signing with Rima Barkett and Claudia Pruett Thursday, June 25th - 11:00am - 2:00pm. Meet and greet these authors as they stop by Beyond Pots and Pan with their new book, Cooking Dinner -- Simple Italian Family Recipes Everyone Can Make.
Cooking Class with Helen Chen Monday, August 3 - 6:00pm. Join us for a special cooking class with Helen Chen as she cooks from her new cookbook, Easy Chinese Stir-Fries. She'll share her best secrets for creating healthy, fast, Chinese-style meals. |
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Smoking -- a Cooking Technique
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In
the culinary world, the term "holy smoke" is a term of reverence and
awe, not a random exclamation of surprise. Smoke is that essential,
ethereal ingredient that, along with low cooking temperatures,
transforms plain and tough, into succulent and tender.
What is smoking?
- Smoking is a variation of barbecuing -- low temperature cooking with
an emphasis on producing plenty of smoke thanks to smoldering
hardwoods. The low temperatures that promote smoke also tenderize the
food. The leisurely cooking times break down stubborn fibers. Tough,
inexpensive meats are transformed into melt-in-your-mouth morsels.
Beyond the tradition of smoked meats, really anything can be smoked.
(Try the recipe below that uses a smoked onion).
How to Smoke
- Smoking can be accomplished on a traditional grill or in a
specifically constructed smoker. As an indirect cooking method, smoking
is completed near the heat source, not over the heat source. Soaked
wood is added to the heat source and the wisps of flavor begin to swirl
around food. It's a test of patience, however -- it's the long, slow
cooking that makes it all work.
Smoking on a Charcoal Grill
- To turn a conventional charcoal grill into a smoker, light the
charcoal and allow it to find its simmering point - the point where the
briquettes are completely covered with a fine, white ash. Push the
coals to the outer edge of the grill leaving the center free to hold a
drip pan. Deploy a pie tin, or another suitably-sized pan to catch any
drips of fat or meat juice. (Smoke generated from burning grease is not
desirable). Place soaked, drained wood chips on top of the smoldering
coals and cover the grill. The temperature inside the grill should
ideally be between 200�-220�F.
Smoking on a Gas Grill
- Smoking on a gas grill is facilitated by a built-in smoker box that
heats the wood to a higher smoking temperature while keeping the rest
of the grill at a lower temperature. If your grill does not have a
built-in smoker box for holding wood chips, a separate smoke box can
obtained and put to use. Or, the smoking effect can be simulated by
placing soaked, drained wood chips in a vented aluminum foil packet and
placing the packets beneath the grate.
Smoking in a Smoker
- You may find yourself enamored with smoking to the point that you
require a dedicated smoking set-up. Smokers generally come in two
styles - horizontal or vertical. A horizontal smoker is typically
barrel-shaped with the fire source off to one end. The burning wood in
the firebox floats smoke into the barrel and vents through the opposite
end surrounding the food with a continuous airflow of smoke. Vertical
smokers, also often barrel-shaped, have three layers: the firebox is
loaded from below, a water pan rests above, and the grill rack sits on
top. The water pan provides moisture throughout the cooking process
offsetting the drying effect of the smoke.
Smoking Indoors
- This sounds like an oxymoron, but for some apartment dwellers, or to
satisfy wintertime cravings, it's quite possible to get authentic
smoked flavor in your food while cooking indoors. Stovetop smokers are
available that have a bottom layer to hold the wood chips or sawdust, a
middle layer drip pan, and a top layer food grate. The same principle
applies, low heat and longer cooking times. Another indoor alternative
is a one-time use smoking bag. The aluminum pouch has an inner pouch
containing the wood. Foods are placed inside and the entire bag is
crimped shut and placed in the oven. Thin cuts or quick-cooking foods
such as fish, chicken, and vegetables are ideal candidates for smoking
indoors.
Manage the Temperature
- For barbecuing and smoking a temperature target of 200�-220�F is
desired. After the initial heating of the grill or smoker, the art of
barbecuing is, in part, maintaining the temperature in that sweet zone.
Measure the temperature of the smoking chamber and measure the internal
temperature of the food. If things are too cold, open the vent to
increase the air flow and fuel the fire. If too hot, add some more wet
wood chips to cool things down.
 The Wood Makes the Smoke
- As one might guess, different types of wood create different types of
flavor as foods are smoked. Only hardwoods should be used when smoking
foods. Choose good wood; ensure that it is not treated, that it
contains no paint, nails, or other foreign material. Strongly-flavored
woods include hickory, mesquite, oak, walnut; mellow-flavored woods
range from maple, apple, cherry, and apricot to other fruit tree woods.
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From Good to Great Smoking and Grilling
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There's
always something to be learned about grilling whether you're a novice
or an expert! Here are a few tips to advance or refresh your skills:
Temperature, temperature, temperature!
- If there's a crime to be committed on the grill it's cooking the food
too long. This situation usually arises from a fear of food-borne
illness from undercooked food. Using a thermometer and this
temperature chart will give you the confidence to pull the food off the
grate just at the right point of doneness whether you're smoking,
barbecuing, or grilling.
Many
"grill artists" use two thermometers when smoking: (1) the thermometer
on the outside of the smoker, and (2) an inside thermometer. This
second thermometer might be as simple as an oven thermometer, or as
up-to-date as a remote thermometer with the probe placed appropriately
in the center of the thickest portion of the smoking food.
When
smoking larger cuts of meat and using low temperatures, avoid opening
the smoker or the grill lid unless you're concerned about too high of
heat at the onset. As the old saying goes, "If you're lookin', it ain't
cookin'!"
Keep it Safe! - Working with live fire always calls for safe practices indoors or outdoors. Set yourself up for success:
 Mise en Place - "Everything in place." Gather the tools, dishes, seasonings, etc. prior to grilling.Long Handles Work!
- It's true! Equipping your grilling life with the proper, long-handled
tools will keep your hands and arms safely distant from the heat. Make
sure the tool handles are insulated well. Mitts and Hot Pads
- Choose BBQ mitts and hot pads that are fireproof or fire resistant.
Long mitts that protect your forearm as well as your hand are handy
when using fire logs or when you're manning a large grill. Burn First-Aid - Aim to prevent burns, but have a first-aid kit at the ready for any minor accidents that might occur.
Special Handling!
- The possibilities on the grill explode with a couple of special
tools. If you haven't tried them, we guarantee they will greatly
enhance your outdoor cooking repertoire:
The Grill Grid, Basket, or Wok
- These tools allow vegetables or smaller cuts of meat to be grilled
easily and quickly without any food falling through the grate onto the
charcoal or burner. Seafood grilling works especially well with these
tools.
Two-Sided Wire Basket
- This tool was originally developed for grilling fish. It's still
perfect for that, but we also find it's great for grilling fruit,
particularly slices of pineapple and stone fruits. The delicate foods
are safely cradled in the basket and easily turned without sticking or
mangling.
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More Flavor Layers
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Good
ingredients, a little fire, and it's a great meal! Add a few spices
before, during, and after cooking, and the experience is further
enhanced. Before the food hits the grill, a variety of preparation
methods can be used to begin the "layering of flavors."
Dry Rubs
- Salt, sugar, and any number of spices may be rubbed into the grill
ingredient. The flavors of the rub remain primarily on the surface.
The sugar component in the rub will energize the Maillard reaction that
creates the flavorful browning on meat. After massaging a dry rub into
the surface of the meat, let it sit for 10-15 minutes prior to
grilling.
Wet Rubs -
Similar to a dry rub, a wet rub, or paste, is a dense mixture of salt,
sugar, spices, and wet components such as olive oil, pureed fresh
herbs, minced garlic, etc. Wet rubs are useful with lean meats, such
as boneless chicken breasts because of the added moisture.
Marinades
- Seasoned with herbs and spices, a marinade is a liquid with an acidic
character. Vinegars or citrus juices all provide the required
acidity. Food items soaked in the liquid plump up. Plan on about one
cup of marinade for every pound of meat. The acidic quality begins the
breakdown of food resulting in a tender product. When marinating, use a
non-reactive pan or dish. Zippered plastic bags are great for
marinating. Do not reuse the marinade, nor should it be used as a sauce
or baste after it has been in contact with any raw meat product.
Brines
- A brine is a combination of water, salt, and flavorings. Ingredients
soaked in a brine gather water and flavor through the osmotic character
of the sodium. The salt also begins to break down proteins contributing
to the tenderness. Brines are particularly useful for pork and chicken
where there is little marbling fat to keep the meat moist.
Mops and Sops - A mop or a sop
is a cross between a marinade and a brine; it contains both acidic
components and salty aspects. The liquid is applied periodically during
cooking with a mop-like hand tool, hence the name. The mop/sop adds
moisture and an ongoing infusion of flavor.
Injections
- With a large, hypodermic-like needle, the brine or marinade flavors
may be injected into larger pieces of meat. A vacuum-based marinating
dish uses a vacuum to quickly pull the marinade deep into the food.
Sauces and Glazes
- Is it the sauce that makes the barbecue, or barbecue that makes the
sauce? It's a trick question - they're virtually inseparable! Most
grilling sauces and glazes have a strong sugar component. Because of
this, rapid carmelization takes place when exposed to high heat. Too
much heat for too long, and the sauce or glaze burns -- a grilling
disaster! To avoid this situation when grilling with high heat, add
the sauce during the last 5-10 minutes of grilling saving some extra
sauce for the table.
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Smart Smoking and Grilling Tips
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Tip #1:
For pulled pork, beef or chicken, deploy a low-and-slow temperature
cooking technique - low temperature (200�-220�F) for a long period of
time. Pitmasters recommend an internal temperature for the finished
meat of 180�F, a little higher than normal. The higher internal
temperature makes the meat pull apart and shred easily into perfection.
Tip #2:
Chips or chunks - match the size of wood pieces used for smoking to the
situation. The longer you plan to smoke the food, the larger the pieces
of wood that should be used. Soak the wood for 30 minutes submerged in
water, weighting the chips if necessary. Drain and pat dry the soaked
wood prior to adding to the grill or smoker.
Tip #3:
Looking for some quick smoky taste in your food? Try incorporating
chipotle peppers, smoked paprika, or smoked salt. Each of these
products will share their smoky essence with the rest of the
ingredients to a wonderful, overall effect!
Tip #4:
Monitor your marinating! It is possible to over-marinate your food. The
acidity in marinades breaks down protein structures tenderizing the
food in the process. Left too long, the process can turn delicate foods
like fish and shrimp into mush. Seafood should not be marinated more
than 30-60 minutes. Larger cuts of meat benefit from overnight
marinating. Steaks and chops are best after 2-3 hours of marinating.
 Tip #5:
Try grilling fruit for a perfect ending to your summer meal. Stone
fruits (peaches, apricots, plums, nectarines) or slices of fresh
pineapple are delicious when grilled. Improvise a grilled fruit salsa
with the addition of a chile, cilantro and some citrus juice.
Tip #6:
Is the home team a fan of sliders? Make your own quickly and easily
with a slider maker. Sliders are those tiny 5-cent hamburgers made
famous by White Castle. Add a single slice of pickle, a dot of ketchup
and mustard, and you're ready to go!
Tip #7:
Beer can chicken has taken a leap forward with standing roasters. The
bottom tray catches drippings from the bird, and the stainless steel
composition eliminates any potential contamination.
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Q & A's
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Q: What is liquid smoke?
A: Liquid smoke is available as a flavoring and is typically found near the Worcestershire sauce in markets. Liquid
smoke is made from condensated smoke dissolved in water to create an
easy-to-use flavoring solution. Liquid smoke is strong - a few drops go
a long way!
Q: What's the best way to clean a grill grate? A:
The test kitchens at Cook's Illustrated recommend cleaning a grill by
heating the grate first, then brushing the rack with a long-handled,
grill brush. Finish the cleaning sequence by wiping the grate with a
paper towel soaked with vegetable oil and held by long-handled tongs.
Q: What is the difference between smoked food and smoke-cured foods? A:
Smoking as a cooking method differs from "smoke-cured." Foods that are
"smoke-cured," as in smoked salmon or beef jerky, are preserved in a
smoky environment, but without heat.
Q: Who invented the match? (great party trivia...) A:
Early versions of today's "friction match" have been around for
centuries. However, the modern match was developed by an English
chemist, John Walker, in 1826. Sticks of pine were dipped in a potion
of phosphorous and sulfur compounds and allowed to dry. Today's "safety
match" was developed in 1844 by Gustaf Erik Pasch of Sweden. The safety
match was, indeed, safer because it did not contain the dangerous
chemical, white phosphorous. More importantly, the two explosive
elements are separated - one component is on the match head, and the
other on the special striking surface. If you collect match-related
items, you engage in the hobby of phillumeny.
Q: How do I keep my barbecue from getting a bitter flavor? A:
A by-product of burning wood is creosote and is the substance
responsible for a potential bitter taste in smoked foods. The substance
will also cause your tongue to be numb. You can avoid creosote build-up
on food by keeping your smoker clean, and ensuring good airflow and
proper smoke-venting during cooking. |
Cookbook Review
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Smoke & Spice, Cooking with Smoke, the Real Way to Barbecue by Cheryl and Bill Jamison. Copyright 2003. Published by The Harvard Common Press, Boston, MA.
James Beard Award Winning Authors - Cheryl and Bill Jamison
This
book reintroduces the time-honored tradition of long, slow cooking with
smoke - something earlier generations knew about easily and
instinctively. In a fast food culture, cooking slowly with low
temperatures seems contrarian to the times. But, it is precisely this
counterpoint that has produced a revival in barbecuing and its cousin,
smoking. The authors, assuming no foreknowledge, walk us through the
basics of smoking in a variety of scenarios, then provide an
encyclopedia of recipes spanning the classics and some clever, modern
improvisations. The cookbook is organized in the general categories of
pork, beef, fowl, fish, then veers off to the garden with vegetables,
salads, pasta, and pizza. The book finishes with a generous offering of
side dishes, condiments, desserts and drinks that match the barbecue
table well. Each page is peppered with insightful tips and entertaining
stories. It's engaging and delightful!
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Smoke and Grilling Recipes
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Excerpted from Smoke & Spice by Cheryl and Bill Jamison. � 2003, used by permission from The Harvard Common Press.
Jalapeno-Lime Shrimp
The
marinade for this recipe is fantastic! We loved its application for
this shrimp presentation, but immediately saw possibilities for a host
of other uses. For this recipe, we tried the indoor smoking bags
mentioned above which worked quite well. The shrimp were absolutely
delicious!
Click here to view the full recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
Weeknight Pork Tenderloin and Wild Willy's Number One-derful Rub
Despite
the karma of cooking "low and slow," we were looking for something that
could be smoked and cooked after work and before the summer sun set.
This fit the bill! The rub recipe included here is a great, basic rub
that pairs well with a number of foods. The pork smoked quickly in its
butterflied condition. The searing step sealed in the juices and made
for a moist, flavorful meal.
Click here to view the full recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
Smoked Onion Sauce
We
smoked an onion along with the pork tenderloin above. The soft, smoky
onion became the basis for this piquant sauce that complemented the
pork tenderloin perfectly. We liked the chunky style and the intense
flavors. There was even enough sauce for the grilled chicken breasts
the next evening.
Click here to view the full recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
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Pour the sweet tea and call the kids to the table! Remember, it's barbecue etiquette for the cook to get the first pick!
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Lorraine, Katie, and all of the Staff at Beyond Pots and Pans
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