"Champignon de Paris"
April 23, 2009 - Volume 1 - Issue 3
|
|
|
|
|
Appreciating Mushrooms
|
The
proliferation and acceptance of cultivated mushrooms started as a
rather serendipitous happenstance. Around the turn of the twentieth
century, an enterprising florist in Kennett Square, PA, sought
to optimize his greenhouse space and began cultivating mushrooms
underneath his plant benches. Dark and damp, the conditions proved
perfect for mushroom growing. His floral market, New York and
Philadelphia, were also perfect targets for this secondary crop.
Another surge in mushroom popularity around the mid '70's turned this
specialty crop into commodity produce. A crop now worth nearly one
billion dollars a year, mushrooms have spread into our kitchens and
have been eagerly welcomed. In this issue we'll provide a glossary of
commonly available mushrooms, discuss "umami," the fifth taste
sensation, and offer instruction on two essential cooking techniques,
roasting and saut�ing. We finish with three recipes featuring
mushrooms that will have your mouth-watering in anticipation.
|
First Monday Event - May 4th
|
Join us for another "First Monday" Event. On May 4th from 4:00 - 7:00pm, John Hitchcock and Lorraine Hitchcock will be heating up the stove with some familiar and not-so-familiar breads -- Waffles, Pancakes, and Aebelskivers -- and everything that goes with them! Demonstrations will be held at 4:15pm, 5:15pm, and 6:00pm.
Waffles, Pancakes, Aebelskivers Monday, May 4th - 4:00-7:00pm Enjoy a 20% discount all during the event. |
|
|
|
April Specials and Discounts!
|
Four Ways to Save BIG!
(1) Purchase any 3 Rosle tools and receive a free Rosle whisk!
(2) In April, if you pay for your purchase in cash, receive a 5% discount!
(3) Tuesdays are Senior Citizen Day, all seniors over the age of 62 receive 10% off!
(4) Remember "First Mondays" from 4pm - 7pm, 20% off regularly-priced merchandise! |
April Special!
|

Special Feature for April
Messermeister Scissor Set Sale $29.99
Regularly $52.00
Great for trimming artichokes, piecing chicken, cutting butcher's twine, dicing dried fruits, snipping threads, and a thousand other tasks!
Offer good in-store only and while supplies last.
|
A Forest of Mushrooms
|
Mushrooms
are in a special plant class of their own, fungi. Most fungi grow on
dead and decaying matter independent of sunlight. Ironically, mushrooms
are one of the few rich sources of naturally-occuring Vitamin D, the
"sunshine" vitamin. No longer dependent on the forest floor for
favorable co nditions,
mushrooms are grown in dark, cool, damp buildings known as mushroom
farms. Mushrooms do not have seeds, but have spores for creating the
next generation. Spores are scattered on specific mixes of sawdust,
corn cobs, and other decaying matter. Runners, known as mycelium,
begin to form in the soil. Mushrooms sprout as the "fruit" producing
more spores on dark, papery gills located on the cap's underside. It
takes four to six weeks for a crop to grow from spore to harvest.
Once
the purview of secretive mushroom hunters, mushrooms are standard issue
in today's grocery markets. Until recently, fresh mushrooms meant
white button mushrooms -- and they still comprise 85% of the cultivated
market. However, in the last several years, the fresh options have
expanded greatly. Below is a brief glossary of commonly available
mushrooms to help guide you: (Courtesy of the Mushroom Council).
 |
|
The Fifth Taste - Umami
|
Pronounced "oo-MAH-may," umami
is the "fifth taste." Most of us grew up schooled on the four types of
taste sensations: sweet, sour, salty and bitter. Anecdotally, the
famous French chef, Auguste Escoffier, and the Japanese scientist,
Kikunae Ikeda, both hit on umami as the fifth taste, something separate
and distinct from the other four tastes. The fifth taste is often
described as "brothy," "meaty," or, as the word umami translates,
"yummy."
Scientifically,
the sense of taste is supported by thousands of taste buds. These
specialized receptors are positioned throughout the mouth, particularly
on the little bumps, papillae, of the tongue. They are also located on
the sides and roofs of our mouths. Different individuals have different
quantities of taste buds; an "average taster has about 184 taste buds
per centimeter of tongue, a "supertaster" has 425, and "non-tasters"
only 96.
The specialized receptors respond to one of the taste
types. What was informally known about umami was confirmed
scientifically in 2002 when neuroscientists discovered specific
receptors for L-glutamate
on the tongue. It is this L-glutamate that comprises the primary umami
sensation. L-glutamate is a consequence of glutamate, a component of
nearly all organic matter, breaking down as it ages, ferments, or
cooks. Glutamate is a common amino acid found in both plant and meat
protein structures.
Umami is also evoked by other micro-elements known as nucleotides, specifically, inosinate and guanylate.
Inosinate is generously found in meat and seafood, while guanylate is
found in mushrooms. The combination and proportion of these chemical
elements creates different umami sensations. Chefs seek to amplify the
"yummy factor" through the synergistic use of foods rich in the
molecular components of umami. By combining onions, (rich in
glutamate) and mushrooms, (rich in guanylate), with a beefy stock,
(rich in inosinate), the umami receptors become quite satiated!
Foods
containing large quantities of umami elements include fish, shellfish,
beef, pork, and chicken. In the plant world, mushrooms are rich in
umami tastes, as well as tomatoes, seaweed, soy beans, potatoes,
Chinese cabbage, and carrots. In the dairy world, Parmesan cheese heads
the umami list.
|
Roasting and Saut�ing Vegetables
|
Once
was the day that cooking vegetables meant boiling them until mushy and
drab in color. No wonder vegetables disappeared from our dining table!
Then, we discovered steaming! Steaming kept vegetables appealing in
color and inviting with their crisp-tender texture. Steaming remains a
perfectly healthy and appropriate cooking method. However, as of late,
it's roasting and saut�ing vegetables that's taken a prominent role in
the kitchen.
Roasting Vegetables
- Roasting is a cooking technique invoking high, dry heat to the food
at hand. This process evaporates the water in the food leaving the
essence of the food in a concentrated form. It's this concentration of
flavors and slight caramelization of the vegtables' sugars that makes
them particularly flavorful.
How to Roast Vegetables:
 - Prep your vegetables by peeling, snapping, or trimming.
- Wash
the vegetables well, then pat dry. We like to allow the vegetables to
air dry for a few minutes to ensure that excess water is minimized.
- Spread the vegetables in a single layer on a baking sheet without crowding. A baking rack may be used if desired.
- Drizzle a bit of olive oil over the vegetables, and toss gently.
- Sprinkle sea salt, and add freshly ground pepper.
- Bake in a 400-425� F oven until the vegetables are just tender.
The
key to roasting vegetables is a single layer arrangement. If you have
more than a single layer of vegetables, roast in two batches. It's
important that the high heat reach the vegetables -- overcrowding will
simply steam them instead of roasting them.
Saut�ing Vegetables
- Saut�ing is another high heat method of cooking that also serves to
evaporate the vegetables' water while concentrating the flavors. As
with roasting, the high heat inspires the Maillard reaction, more
commonly known as caramelization. The butter or olive oil deployed in
the process also adds to the delectable flavor layers. Similar to
roasting, one key to a good saut� is not overcrowding the pan. Add only
a single layer of vegetables at a time. Saut� in two batches if
necessary.
How to Saut� Vegetables:
- Prep your vegetables by peeling, snapping, or trimming.
- Wash
the vegetables well, then pat dry. We like to allow the vegetables to
air dry for a few minutes to ensure that excess water is minimized.
- Heat a saut� pan over a medium-high burner or flame.
- Add a small amount of olive oil to the heated pan and allow the oil to heat
- Add the prepared vegetables; stir or toss to coat with the hot oil.
- Stir or toss gently during cooking until the vegetables are cooked to tenderness.
- Sprinkle sea salt, add freshly ground pepper, and serve.
Use
a high-quality saut� pan that has a broad, flat bottom and sloping
sides. A saut� pan facilitates the tossing of its contents instead of
stirring. Stirring may damage tender portions of the vegetables. To
toss, push the pan forward abruptly so that its contents slide up the
sides of the pan. Catch the airborne veggies in the center of the
pan. The short flight time allows the vegetables to land in a
different position and evenly cook on all sides. With a little
practice, your saut� tossing skills will be a source of admiration!
|
Smart Mushroom Tips
|
Tip #1:
Use a mushroom brush to clean your mushrooms. A mushroom brush has
softer bristles than typical vegetable brushes. The soft bristles will
whisk away any dirt particles without damaging or tearing the delicate
flesh of the mushroom.
Tip #2:
When buying mushrooms, choose those that look freshest and without any
bruising or evidence of excess moisture. Bruised mushrooms deteriorate
quickly. Excess moisture will also precipitate a quick demise. A cap
that is closed indicates a younger mushroom with delicate flavor; an
open cap is still quite fresh and will actually have a richer flavor.
Tip #3:
Mushrooms may be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week in their
original packaging. Once the package is opened, store the mushrooms in
a paper bag. Avoid storing mushrooms in a plastic bag or container.
Allow them to breathe a bit and keep them away from any condensation
opportunities.
Tip #4:
When saut�ing or roasting, olive oil, (or other oils with higher smoke
points), matches the situation well. If you like the flavor of butter,
use a combination of olive oil and butter; this will raise the overall
smoke point while decreasing the overall saturated fat content.
Tip #5:
Use a large Portabella mushroom as you would a hamburger. Brush the
large cap with olive oil, grill for about 4-6 minutes on each side.
Load it up with sliced red onions, roasted red peppers, your favorite
cheese, even ketchup or mustard if you like!
Tip #6:
When preparing mushrooms for stuffing, use a melon baller to "scoop
out" the gills and any excess flesh. Save the trimmings and stem
pieces; chop and add them to the stuffing for added flavor.
|
Cookbook Review
|
Fresh Every Day, More Great Recipes from Foster's Market
by Sara Foster with Carolynn Carre�o. Copyright 2005. Clarkson
Potter/Publishers, an imprint of Crown Publishing Group, a division of
Random House, Inc., New York, NY.
 The
change in season brings a welcome change in harvests. Access to fresh
ingredients increases in a variety of ways - from our gardens, reopened
farmer's markets, and seasonal choices at supermarkets. This cookbook
celebrates "freshness." More than a buzzword, or part of the "Buy
Fresh, Buy Local" slogan, "fresh" looks good and tastes great!
Building on a style of cooking that begins with what's available today,
Foster puts practical reality with a refreshed view of what "home
cooking" can be in the enlightened age of nutritional awareness and
sustainable food sources. The eight chapters range in breadth:
"Breakfast for Anytime," "Simple Soups," "Seasonal Salads and Salad
Meals," "Seasonal Sides," "Quick and Tasty Meat Main Dishes," "Fast and
Fresh Fish, Pasta, and Risotto Meals," "Meals that Cook Themselves,"
and "A Little Something Sweet." Ms. Foster encourages us to use her
recipes as jumping off points and provides us ample confidence to do so
through clear instructions, notes that riff on her themes, and generous
suggestions.
|
Recipes with Mushrooms
|
Recipes excerpted from Fresh Every Day, More Great Recipes from Foster's Market
by Sara Foster with Carolynn Carre�o. Copyright 2005. Clarkson
Potter/Publishers, an imprint of Crown Publishing Group, a division of
Random House, Inc., New York, NY. Used with permission. All rights
reserved.
Wild Mushroom Soup with Sherry and Thyme At
home in spring as well as fall, this soup is delicate and satisfying
all at once. We used a variety of mushrooms for maximum flavor. Absent
from this recipe is any cream or heaviness. Instead, a portion of the
soup is pureed and returned to the pot for natural thickness. The
soup's rich flavor is predominantly earthy mushroom enhanced with
sherry and an herbal touch of thyme.
Click here to view the recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
Jonathan's Grilled Eggplant and Portobello  Mushroom Salad with Fresh Mozzarella We
predict that this salad will be the season's new standard. Grilling the
eggplant and Portobello mushrooms lent a smoky complexity to the
overall flavor. The simplest of vinaigrettes was simultaneously a
suitable marinade and dressing. We used cherry-sized balls, Ciliegine,
of fresh mozzarella to coordinate with the bite-sized vegetables. This
was a great do-ahead dish that only got better as it rested.
Click here to view the recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
Roasted Mushrooms with Green Peas and Tomatoes This
recipe makes quick use of your newly honed roasting skills. Colorful
and flavorful, the roasted mushrooms, peas and grape tomatoes yield the
desired concentrated flavors. Mastered in the first making, the
methods in this recipe are a perfect place to begin applying
improvisational roasting skills that will prove useful throughout the
spring and summer ahead. . Click here to view the recipe.
Click here for a printable version of the recipe.
|
 |
Wishing you the best as you develop your mycologically-inspired culinary explorations!
|
Lorraine, Katie, and all of the Staff at Beyond Pots and Pans
|
|
|
|