I have been spotting chilled glasses of
Rosé
all over the place - even where there's snow
on the ground. It's a movement! In fact, I had a glass last Sunday in Boston and I saw several other glasses around the room. But, I decided that winter Rosés need to be full of flavor and acidity to match winter foods.
Rosé is no longer just a warm weather enticer.
It's clear that when the thermometer takes a
dive, nobody is willing to give up their
glass and why should they! Full flavored, chilled
Rosé is fantastic anytime,
particularly this one.
I expected to like this Rosé because when
Arnaud Couly of Domaine Couly-Dutheil makes a
wine he really pours himself into it, but I
didn't expect to be completely conquered by
its nervy little charm. And, judging by the
space I had to make for it in my last
container, you feel the same way.
You can taste the hint of red berries (Rosé
should never just taste like pink white wine)
and there is that zing of fresh, perfect
acidity in your mouth.
Domaine Couly Dutheil is in one of the most
beautiful villages in all of France: Chinon.
For a quarter of a mile in each direction
along the River are charming stone houses
built right into the hillside. The land rises
steeply from the bank and on its highest part
with a lot of vineyards in between sits a
chateau, noble though in ruins.
Domaine Couly Dutheil has been making some of
the Loire's best wines for more than 80 years
now. This
Rosé is produced on gravel and sandy soils.
The grapes are picked by hand and the yields
are low. This is not some after-thought of a
wine, it is a beautiful expression of
Cabernet Franc.
The best Rosé is made by pressing the grapes,
the way you normally would for any red wine.
The juice is allowed to sit with the grape
skins briefly picking up color, but also
tannins, pectins and proteins which give the
wine structure. Then the juice is drained
off, put into another vat without the skins
and the fermentation proceeds.
This is what gives Rosé its beautiful,
seductive, pale color and subtle red fruit
notes. Are ready for winter? This Rosé says
you are. Cynthia Hurley
