La Revue du Vin de France calls 2009 an "exceptional year" and they haven't used those words to describe a vintage since 1996! That's right, this is the moment to put some of this lovely, dry, Saumur blanc in your glass.
Wine Spectator agrees: "Early indications are that the Loire valley, a sprawling 600-mile stretch covering dozens of appellations and numerous grape varieties, enjoyed its best and most consistent harvest since 2005. The warm, dry weather that marked the growing season in many of France's major wine regions in 2009 extended into the Loire as well, resulting in ripe reds and whites marked by supple structure."
I am telling you this wine is charmant. It is made from the Chenin Blanc grape - like Vouvray. The wine seems to shimmer with a faint light. Crisp! It's the acidity level more than anything else I think that makes it special. Nothing flabby squatting on my tongue. It's lithe and springy, bouncing around in my mouth with dashes of pears and grapefruits and lemons (Pascale would say peches blanches). I love it!
Domaine Lavigne is in the commune of Varrains which is between Angers and Tours in the Loire Valley. The Domaine is a family effort. Gilbert Lavigne and his daughter, Pascale, and son-in-law, Antoine Veron run the domaine. Their small production Chenin Blanc (they have only 5 hectares) is a source of a lot of family attention. It is a very special part of their family domaine. They have a palm tree right inside the walls of their domaine, which tells you something about the climate.
Pascale would shrug if I told her it was great with pizza. She would suggest a fish fillet in clarified butter or scallops or trout. I say you can even risk it all on its own -- no food at all. Oh, la la. We won't tell Pascale. Cynthia Hurley
