Who doesn't like Champagne? I do not see any hands out there.
All my wine participants have been asking for a Champagne-like wine for ages.
New Year's of course, Christmas eve mais oui - any good dinner (almost defined by opening a bottle). Sparkling wine is required at this time of year.
And I agree! Although until now - despite a lot of requests - I have not imported any sparking wines myself. Why not? Because I have been looking too long in Champagne.
I import only individual winemakers' wines because across France that is where the most interesting and best wines are made today. Champagne is dominated by big corporate brands with most producers' grapes coming from a thousand sources where yields are high and quality is unknown. Yes they are serviceable but they are also expensive. Most Champagnes are $40+ per bottle and while they have their 'house style" they are more similar to each other than individually distinctive. That is what you get when you buy grapes from hundreds of sources and blend them.
But last year I had an epiphany - why not look to other French regions like Burgundy and the Loire where very good sparkling wines are made. Regions where there is a long tradition of sparkling wines made by winemakers I know and respect. Winemakers who are using all the traditional methods used in Champagagne but also who respect their vineyards. They use much lower yields (half those in Champagne) and are devoted to getting the best expression of the source and the integrity of the grapes they harvest. And because it is not from "Champagne" it cost about half as much per bottle.
Now we are talking. Why didn't I think of this before? Here are my two new sparkling wines for the holiday season and beyond.
#1 Couly Dutheil Brut de Franc Rose Chinon
This is a relatively new bottling from the very talented Arnaud Couly who has been making the brilliant les Chanteaux (white) and Baronnie Madeleine and Clos de l'Echo Chinons (red Cabernet Franc) in Chinon (in the Loire Valley). Arnaud used the same traditional méthode Champenoise which is rather long and complicated but yields the best sparkling wines.
In short, this requires a normal fermentation in a barrel or stainless vat and then a second fermented in bottle, which is time and labor consuming. In fact, the wine rests in the bottle for two years before release. The wine is made from 100% Cabernet Franc (all from Chinon). The color and aroma come from the Cabernet grapes - the skins are kept in contact with the juice for just 18 hours so that a pink color and additional flavor is achieved.
Arnaud describes his Brut de Franc like this: "it tantalizes the senses with fresh aromas of small red fruits, fine, elegant bubbles, and beautiful roundness." I agree! It is delicious and the rare Rose color is festive and romantic. Perfect before or with any meal.
#2 Crémant de Bourgogne from Benoit Germain
Benoit Germain, the owner and winemaker at Chateau de Chorey in Burgundy, also has a new bottling which I feel is a true discovery. Burgundy has long made Champagne-style sparkling wines. Called "Cremants de Bourgogne" the best bottlings are made from 100% Chardonnay. In Champagne these are known as "Blanc de Blancs" and are often much more expensive then regular Champagne, which includes other, higher yielding grapes. Of course the finest Chardonnay in the world comes from the special climates of Burgundy so it is natural that some very fine Blanc de Blanc are made here.
Here is what Eric Asimov in the New York Times has to say about Blanc de Blanc:
" .. not just any Champagne but blanc de blancs Champagne, made only of Chardonnay, the lightest and most refreshing Champagnes of all, and just as right for an August afternoon as for a midnight in December."
Here is to good health, peace, and good wine this Holiday & in the coming year. Sante and Cheers to all,
Cynthia Hurley
