"If there's a better $20 Chardonnay-based wine on
the market, I'd like to know about it. Auvigue is
one of the very top producers in the Cote Maconnais,
home to Macon-Villages, where the wines are, - to be
diplomatic, - of highly variable quality. Hence, it's
especially important to reach for a top producer, such
as Auvigue, when buying Macon-Villages. The 2008
vintage in Burgundy produced stellar white wines, like
this one, with bright acidity to balance ripe fruit
underpinned by a stony creamy quality. Great balance
and intensity, it outclasses many producers'
Poullly-
Fuisse. In short, don't miss it. 92." -Michael
Apstein
Yes, I was pretty excited to read that review from Michael Apstein, former Boston
Globe columnist. Excited, but not surprised. But that was about the 2008 vintage. Can you even imagine how good the 2009 is?
Wine Spectator reports that, "The vintage I heard mentioned the most in comparison with 2009 was 1999. Some also cited 2002 [both stellar vintages]... All things considered, it looks like Burgundy lovers will be blessed with charming and fruity reds and whites."
Stephen Tanzer reports of the 2009 vintage that, "as a rule, 2009 produced a large crop of fleshy, fruit-driven wines offering considerable early appeal."
Frankly, this is a wine that I drink with relish - by the
vat-load - so pure, so subtle, so charming and
flavorful. You need two cases at the very least. It will
evaporate in your cellar and you'll say, "What?! I could
have sworn there was a case of that Auvigue
Macon-Villages
down here somewhere!"
Macon is a rolling-hilled eden south of the Cote d'Or
and north of Beaujolais and is the source of some
fabulous and, thank goodness, affordable
Chardonnays. The Maconnais whites share some of
the same
characteristics as their northern -and far more
expensive- neighbors Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet,
and Chassagne Montrachet, but, of course, are not
quite as rarefied or else they, too, would carry price
tags of $45 and up a bottle.
Having said that, the Auvigue Macon Villages is a delicious example of
beautifully made Chardonnay -- dry, with some
minerally tones and touches of grapefruit, lemon.
Remember, any French Burgundy is never to be
confused with a lot of the California style of white
which is more heavily oaked. French Burgundies are
subtle, more discreet and often go better with food, in
my opinion.
Let's have a glass tonight! Wait, a minute, I was
sure there were two or three bottles stashed
away. Damn! I've done it again! Cynthia
Hurley
